Volvo S70

qbrozen · January 2008

To be perfectly honest, if you are looking for something that you can neglect maintenance on and have tens of thousands of carefree miles in, then I don't think the volvo is for you.

However, if you are comparing it to a more expensive Cobalt, why not step up your price on the volvo and get a newer one? The volvo will be infinitely more enjoyable and nicer than the cobalt, that's for sure. But it will cost you money to keep it up. If nothing else, you can buy the volvo and save those payments you would have been making on the cobalt to take care of the maintenance and repairs.

And, yes, a GLT makes it more valuable, definitely. Also, being in California ups the prices a bit, in my experience. They are more popular here in the northeast, and therefore there are more used ones running around, and therefore the prices are typically lower (i believe).

jaymoka · January 2008

I was driving on the highway, and little by little the steering wheel became harder to turn; this was a lot more obvious once I got off the highway. I took the car to the mechanic immediately, and he told me that the rack-n-pinion is cracked and the car was leaking steering fluid. The mechanic showed me how the rack-n-pinion was cracked from both ends (a day before I had my car at Belle Tire for an alignment - not sure if that had anything to do with it. The mechanic said it does not).

As for the second questions (who told me the rack-n-pinion wasn't installed correctly), when the mechanic failed to give me a reasonable explanation as why the sound still exists when I drive, I took the car to dealer. The dealer told me that there is a specific order how you should install the rack-n-pinion (first the boot then the rack-n-pinion or vice-versa, can't remember). The dealer told me that the mechanic did not follow the correct order and that the rack-n-pinion was not installed correctly. The problem now is that the dealer also mentioned that the boot might've gotten damaged due to driving on an incorrectly installed rack-n-pinion, and the only way for the dealer to know is to take things apart and reinstall which would cost a minimum of $850. This is starting to become a nightmare!!!!

Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate the help.

Jay

dfahlbusch · January 2008

I bought a 1999 S70 new and my wife drove it up until May of '07. We got her a new vehicle but just couldn't part with the Volvo. I drove it a few times and it runs great, but one day, I unlocked the door and the door would not open. I went in through the passenger side and tried to use the inside door latch and the door still wouldn't open. The locking mechanism still appears to work (it goes up and down, anyway) but the door handle does not open the door. Has anyone ever seen this before?

qbrozen · January 2008

Not specifically on the S70, but it seems like the latch itself is stuck or inoperable. So, yes, you can still lock and unlock it, but when you pull the handle, the latch is not releasing from the catch. The only choice is to pull the inside panel off the door and check it out. HOWEVER, you may not be able to get the panel off with the seat in place. All you can do is try.

qbrozen · January 2008

Well, unfortunately, I don't see a choice here. Have you talked to mechanic #1 since you've visited the dealer? I would tell him you'd like a refund. He may want another shot at it ... I'm not sure what I'd do in that case. I guess I'd cut a deal that he gets 1 more shot and if there are anymore problems, then you get a full refund so you can pay the dealership to do the job right.

addy98s70t5 · January 2008

Just bought a Used S70 T5 - great for a few days, have a strange loss of power, basically done a full tune up on it- Has anyone had a similar problem that may have advice ? Love the car - Want my power back tho lol!!!!

lweiss · January 2008

My base model (really base, no leather or sunroof) is up to 136K now, still running well, few rattles, no burning oil and rides in many ways like a new car. My experience with my Volvo is that:

- You'd better find a good independent repair place, the dealers charge a fortune for almost everything and often have long backups for getting service
- Motor and transmission are solid- what drives you nuts are little electrical things like bulb replacement (frequent), radio not working well, doorlocks- and my sister's Volvo S80 had similar problems
- Still the best seats around and a safe car that makes use of its size with roominess and logical design

And I will run mine into the ground or until something major happens. I have taken test drives in new cars (Mazda6, Honda Accord), then I get back in my 1998 Volvo and it is still more comfortable. And you know, if you can keep driving an older car and not have to assume the massive depreciation of any new car, you are way ahead of the game!

haroldbarlow · March 2008

My radio fades in and out also but my antena is stuck half way up I was going to replace that first. But I was wondering if anyone knows of another problem it may be for the non reception fading in and out at times?

oculus1 · March 2008

I, too, have the same problem re: my antenna in my '99 S70. At first it only got stuck halfway during very cold weather. But now it does that all the time. My radio reception has suffered consequently. Is there a way to lube it or something else, or is replacing the antenna the only option?

qbrozen · March 2008

You can completely disassemble the antenna and lube it up ... but it may have stripped teeth, so it would do no good.

I had mine apart. If you don't know what it looks like, picture one of those toy motorcycles where you zip a toothed nylon chord through the wheel to get it revving. That's what in inside the antenna ... a very long toothed nylon strip. As the motor winds down, it curls the nylon chord into its case, retracting the antenna ... and vice versa to extend.

When mine did the halfway thing, I took the much cheaper option of buying just the antenna with the nylon chord attached instead of a whole new assembly, which I had to disassemble my motor casing to install the new chord. It was a real pain. As you may imagine, the nylon chord does not want to stay wound and acts like a spring. So it is quite trying to wind it and keep it flat in the case while you try to put the cover back on, while your hands are covered in the lube that covers the chord.

tylerbarny · June 2008

I am having the same problem with my s70 for about 2 years now. After the turbo went out a couple of years ago. the car has been losing power. I have spent around $4k on this car. I have replace sensors,everything the mechanics can think of. No one can find what is wrong with it. I love the car I bought it new and just wish someone could help me to get it fixed.

qbrozen · June 2008

What kind of mechanic have you been taking it to? Is it a volvo dealership? Or at least someone who specializes in volvos?
One common problem is vacuum hoses going bad. On a turbo, this is absolutely crucial. If you still have your original vacuum lines, you may want to look into replacing those. There are entire replacement aftermarket kits you can purchase for not alot of $$ (~$200, if I recall correctly).

tylerbarny · June 2008

I have been taken it mostly to the Volvo dealership but I have taken it to volvo specialist as well. Is these vacuum hoses something that anyone could replace or does need to be done by a specialist and where can I get the hose other from volvo. I know volvo's would be very expensive

qbrozen · June 2008

well, there is some info for you on Volvospeed.

However, they say you should be getting a check engine light. ?

IPD offers some cheap replacements.

You also may want to check the hoses highlighted in this diagram. If a turbo hose becomes to soft, it can flex when driving, causing incorrect boost pressure.

culigrill · June 2008

I have a 2000 S70 GLT SE with 65,000 miles on it, live in the Seattle area. Last week, I noticed that when I have the fan on (heat or a/c), the car does not keep a steady acceleration either with or without cruise control. It jerks and bucks like it's not getting enough gas, like a clogged fuel or air line, and only when the fan is running. The fan is not affected, such as slows and speeds up or cuts out, it is steady. Previous to this, the car sat for almost 3 weeks, being driven twice, each time for about a 3-mile drive. Does anyone have any thoughts as to why this might be happening? I'm thinking electrical in some way, due to the fact it's only when the fan is on. Thanks.

qbrozen · June 2008

yeah, its got to be electrical. Why or how? I have NO clue. I can't see why the engine's spark would be connected to the fan's power in any way. Very strange indeed. I'd love to know what you find out.

joshua9 · June 2008

I have a 1999 S-70, 122,000 miles. My wife was driving it approx 10 miles a day. The car would lose power sometimes, that is would not go over about 10 mph at times. Finally, it does that all of the time now. I replaced the fuel filter by the passenger side rear wheel yesterday. The car still does the same thing...press the accelerator to the floor...the engine will not rev over 2K. The dash lights & headlights flicker slightly. When the air is turned on the red brake light & the amber ABS light come momentarily and then go out. The car idles fine with no misses or backfires etc. Any ideas?

Joshua9

volvomax · June 2008

Could be the Mass Airflow Sensor or the Electronic Throttle Module.
You need to take it to someone who can read the car's computer.

culigrill · June 2008

I have a service appointment this week. Thanks for giving me these two specific things to ask about. I will let you know what it ends up being.

joshua9 · July 2008

I appreciate the info. I have been down the sensor path before. I want to get this car ready to sell. It is a good car, but it is time to let it go. I will let you know what the problem is.

Thank you, again.

culigrill · July 2008

Indeed it turns out to be the Electronic Throttle Module. Interestingly enough, Volvo does have a service campaign for this issue, which is resolved at any dealer free of charge. Thank you for your help!

volvomax · July 2008

Your welcome.

scorpioneyes · July 2008

hi all. my trusted '83 245 Turbo is on its last leg and am interested in buying a low-mileage S70. there doesn't seem to be a whole lot in the SF Bay Area but i did find one: an S70 AWD, Nautic Blue, 74,000 miles. Asking price: $8800. Comes with leather, CD/Cassette, Sunroof. No wood trims. haven't run a Carfax yet but seller says he bought it in Berkeley, CA. here's what he says about the car:

*Always had it service at dealer
*had the computer replaced in Oct- paid $1400 (would that be the ETC?)
*thermostat was replaced
*timing belt changed a few years ago
*Replaced with new Firestone tires
*never in accident but has minor dings and scrapes

will be test driving it soon. price seems high. not sure how low to negotiate to. Edmunds TMV is $7200.

after reading the first 30 pages of this thread, i've noticed many have had problems with ETC, among other things. and some have advised against '98-99 models. anything to be worried about this model?

i will use it primarily for commuting to work (20 miles daily) and local trips. doubt i'll ever drive it to snowy Tahoe, so AWD isn't a necessity, but will come in handy during bad rainy season i guess.

i will definitely have it inspected at mechanics and look at service records but not sure what to look for and what questions to ask, since i've never bought a car before, esp. used. any advice is greatly appreciated!

volvomax · July 2008

I would have a Volvo dealer or qualifed Volvo independent shop do a buyers inspection.
There is nothing inherently wrong w/ the 99 S70.
Make sure the service records are up to date

99volvohelp · July 2008

1) Two week ago, engine starting running really rough while driving and while idling, this was after running errands for an hour or so, with no problems. Seemed like it was going to stop dead any minute. Took it into the shop, they said it was a bad coil. Replaced it and also replaced all spark plugs.
2) Drove off from the shop and within 3 miles, it started doing the same thing again.
3) Took it back into the shop, one of the spark plugs was bad, replaced all of the spark plugs again (both times using Volvo spark plugs.)
4) Drove fine for about 30 miles, started doing the same thing again.
Instead of my favorite local volvo shop, this time took it to the dealer.
5) Dealer is saying diagnostics show misfires on all 5 coils, plus oil leaking on the timing belt and another oil leak on the rear cam.
I understand that once a coil goes bad, it is not long thereafter that the others will go, very pricey to replace, however, I just had one of the coils replaced, why would there be 5 misfires should only be four at this point. Also, would the oil leak on the timing belt cause the feeling of the misfiring... (which I am not sure about either, as there is no oil drips under the vehicle, when parked or idling)

I have no idea what I should fix and what is not necessary. I have already put in some big bucks to get this far, with no change in the engine at all.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

qbrozen · July 2008

Anybody look at the MAF sensor?
Common fault on the '99 and if it is not mixing the fuel correctly, you could be running very rich, misfiring, and fouling plugs.
Oil leaking on the timing belt won't cause any direct problems, as the timing belt has teeth and can't slip. However, it will degrade the belt and it may eventually break. So you'll want to replace the belt when the oil leak is fixed.

tatum2 · September 2008

Too late to get this message?When the door locks do not work the passenger
side swithch controls everything! Dealer told me that the passenger side also controls the alarm system. When the door locks don't work go and giggle this
switch you will hear the click and the locking system is as good as new.
Has happened so many times that I get used to it.

tatum2 · September 2008

This problem is the reason I came to This site. All of a sudden the engine wants to mis-fire when it is pressed hard into passing gear. I have put Bosch Platimim plugs, changed the wires, had the injectors purged and nothing helps. The car has never done this before and I was wondering it it could be a vacuum hose or something in the tranny. Unless pushed the trans mission shifts like butter.. It is a 1998 S-70 GLT. Any help?

qbrozen · September 2008

definitely could be a vacuum leak.

Not a trans problem, as that wouldn't cause misfiring.

tatum2 · September 2008

Thank you for your quick reply. I have owned this car from 85k ( second owner)
I have lavished so much attention and money to keep it running. The S-70 is spotless inside and out but I am starting to get nickled and dimed to death.
This particular problem is more important. Need to ask another question?
How many vacumm hoses are there? And does the Tranny have vacuum hoses?

.

qbrozen · September 2008

I don't believe the tranny has any vacuum lines ... but don't quote me on that.

How much vacuum line does the engine have. OH BOY!
well... i don't know. But its ALOT!

Here is something that may or may not help you:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/vacuum_lines.php

Unfortunately, I think you bought it at a bad time. I had no problems up till 85k. It was from that point till 105k that I put in over $3k in my car. Suspension, ABS module, bearings, EGR system, etc. Difference is, I had mine from 30k, so putting $3k into it didn't bother me all too much. I sold it with 115k and that owner probably had many many thousands of trouble-free miles after everything I did to it.

vols70 · September 2008

My daughter is having the same problem with her '98 S70. What solution did you use?

vols70 · September 2008

When my daughter is driving her '98 Turbo S70 sedan, suddenly one of the dashboard lights comes on, then another, until they are all on and the car stops running. This is occurring more frequently to the point that she is afraid to drive it.
After sitting for about 2 hours, the car will start up and go again.
She has taken it to the Volvo dealer twice. Their recommendation: replace the alternator and the battery. She has taken it to an alternator repair shop, and they can't find anything wrong with the battery or the alternator. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix it?

tylerbarny · September 2008

My car is still losing power. I have spent thousands of dollars trying to find the cause. The problem is they can never re-inact the problem. They don't get any codes that would allow them to repair it. I have been out on the interstate and my cause just loses power. I put it in neutral and it always start right up. It has never not restarted instantly. The mechanics say it would be better if it wouldn't start and maybe they could find the answer.
I still drive the car, but cautiously. I do not pull out in front of anyone.
It is hard to believe that Volvo can't fix their own cars. I paid over 35k for this car brand new.

qbrozen · September 2008

It is hard to believe that Volvo can't fix their own cars.

This is in no way exclusive to Volvos. There is not a mechanic alive who can figure out an intermittent problem that leaves no traces and can't be replicated at will.

You can read similar stories about every make.

And if you guys haven't replaced the battery, I strongly recommend it, regardless of what a tech says. When my battery went bad in my S70, I could not tell with a meter. It tested fine. But, sure enough, I replaced it because I couldn't think of anything else to do, and it fixed my issues.

I'm not saying this is definitely your problem. But for $100, it is worth finding out.

spider19 · December 2008

hi, i have a 1998 v70 that won't start. it urns over, starts idles really rough and stalls out floded. if you give it gas wile running it dosn't take it and dies right away.
i did a full tune up cause previus owner never did, changed (cap,rotor,plugs,wire set)
still no better.
any help on this woulb be very much appreciated thx

volvomax · December 2008

Sounds like a MAF problem.

qbrozen · December 2008

or vacuum leak.

gmac50 · January 2009

does the old bushing have to be pressed out? and where is the best place price wise to buy the abs module?

DrDrums · January 2009

Greetings - I have a 1998 s70 (non turbo). Got it recently. Very Happy. Got an oil change done last night. Car ran fine ..... beuatifully in fact. Went to start it this morning and it won't start/turn/crank. When I turn the key ... I hear three buzzes which appear to eminate from behing the dash (two short one long). The car appears to have power (lights, radio, antennae etc.) If it matters it was 7 degrees here this morning although the card had been starting fine all week in the cold. Any thoughts would be very helpful. Thanks!

qbrozen · January 2009

Hmmm... I'm not familiar with the buzzes. Leads me to think it is some sort of security issues. However, without knowing for sure, my guess is the battery. I too had this happen on my S70 in the winter (meaning having all lights, etc, but no start), and although the battery read 12 volts, I replaced it for lack of any better idea. It worked. Seems these cars are VERY sensitive to the battery's condition.

cabreaghne · January 2009

Hey guys im new here so hopefully this is the right place to post this.

98 Volvo s70, 160000 miles, a couple problems.

1. speedometer quit working.

2. oil is at right level, but over the llast three days it sounds like an airplane. now this is only while the car is in motion. so to me that would eliminate exhaust issues. its not the engine, so is my tranny going out? keep in mind it only makes this noise while the car is in motion. Wheel bearing were just replaced so could it be they were defective? There is no slipping in the tranny at all. so plz help me out guys and gals

qbrozen · January 2009

I doubt its the trans.
Which wheel bearings were replaced? How about tire balancing? Do you feel any vibration at all?

I wouldn't rule out exhaust unless you rev the engine sitting still and get no noises.

Could be as simple as a loose piece of trim. Have you checked the tightness of everything underneath? The dust shield under the engine is not the sturdiest thing ever designed.

wayne1967 · January 2009

I have a 98 volvo with a transmission problem. Transmission was replaced with used 3 months ago. The fluid does not look like tranny fluid but a chocolate milk color. Does anyone know what the problem may be?

qbrozen · January 2009

did it look like trans fluid just after replacement?
this is an automatic, right?

wayne1967 · January 2009

yes an automatic. I believe there is a part that works conjunction with the radiator to keep fluid cool. i do not know what this part is and if I can change myself. Someone told me that I might even need to replace the radiator. thanks!!!

qbrozen · January 2009

well, i can't remember if my s70 had a trans cooler. I searched swedespeed a bit for you and found nothing there about it, either. maybe just take it to an indy volvo mechanic and get a flush/fill done and see what they say about the fluid.

question: did it USED to look red?

asika · January 2009

I will start out with doing a transmission flush and then see. I just flushed my 1998 s70 turbo this weekend and spent around $60 (used 10 quarts of Dex III, 2 1/2 gallon milk jugs and a clear plastic tubbing from Lowe's) doing it myself.

qbrozen · January 2009

heck, my indy volvo mechanic only charges me $79. Saves me aggravation and the trouble of disposing of the fluid.

gmac50 · March 2009

it just stalls out of the blue..the dealer cannot figure it out..i've put a fuel pump and mass air flow sensor and it still stalls

Volvo S70

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