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Volvo S70

1101113151624

Comments

  • twalktwalk Member Posts: 3
    Thank You qbrozen, will do.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    yup. saw that. so looks like terry says you should be shooting for the mid-15k range. I would even go lower than that, frankly, based on his assessment that these are going for around $12K at the auction. So, with the certification, I would try real hard for an even $15K on the vehicle. good luck.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • gthomaspa1gthomaspa1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 S70, GLT SE that I bought new. It only has 39,300 on it and during the past several years, on several occasions, I've had difficulty in starting it. It will start for a fraction of a second, then quit. This may happen five or six times in a row then on the next "try", it will start and keep running. Sometime I will wait for 5-10 minutes between attempts before it will start. Three times, I've had the vehicle towed because it wouldn't start after trying for 45 or so minutes. It then starts after I get it to a garage or home. Last evening..the same thing! Stalled immediately after three attempts and would not start for the next hour. Had it towed 20 miles to my home and after disconnecting from my tow, it started. After 4 years of this crap, the Volvo dealer seems to be no closer to fixing the problem. My wife doesn't even want to ride in this car because of the undependability. Anyone else experience this problem and if you have, what was the fix(other than getting rid of the car)? Looking for answers.
    Thanks
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Sounds to me like the key code system is bad.
    The 2000 S70 had a microchip in its keys which would transmit a code to the cars ignition allowing the engine to start. If the code wasn't recived the engine would start for a second and then shut down.
    You might want to have your dealer look into that system.
  • gthomaspa1gthomaspa1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information, volvomax. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow and the key was the first possible problem area the service advisor mentioned to me today during our phone conversation. However, he did mention that several other conditions might be causing this. The big problem is that is occurs so infrequently and intermittently that this may be difficult to find. The problem is when it happens it is most inconvenient and while traveling away from home, it can be particularly troublesome.
    I thank you, once again. I hope you are correct.
  • jbyrone1jbyrone1 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 volvo s70 and recently it has started fogging up. When you first start the car and drive off the front windscreen becomes covered with mist.. and even turning on the heat or AC does not get rid of it. Even if it warm out
    the problem still occurs... has any one seen this.?
  • lcd1lcd1 Member Posts: 147
    Our '98 S70 with 61K miles just had the AC problem. Volvo said there would be no chance of Volvo paying for the repair done by an independent shop, if Volvo later issues a recall. We paid $1,600 for the repair. Other repairs were also done and the total cost was $2323.55. Ours has been well-maintained. Who could expect such an expensive AC repair at 61K miles. We realize now that a Lexus would have been a better choice.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    please see my response and question on the Problems & Solutions board. Thanks.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • sarasotas70sarasotas70 Member Posts: 2
    Last year we replaced a/c evaporator coil on our '98 S-70GLT for $1200. Dlr had to remove entire dash to access. Now we have developed horrendous squeaks and rattles from dash. Dash is mounted to firewall by four plastic clips molded into main dash assembly. Once these clips break, entire dashboard must be replaced for $1600 parts + $1000 labor (apx). Dlr says "not our fault", common Volvo problem. Any thoughts?
  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    Yes, my comment is that these Volvo's, nice cars as they are, seem to need frequent and expensive maintenance. I have a 98 S-70 base model, now with about 82K miles, runs great, handles nice, but I am getting fearful of huge repair bills around the corner. Maybe sell the thing and get a nice Toyota Camry/Honda Accord/Mazda 6 or if I feel rich, a low end Lexus or Accura.

    But I've heard that most European makes are like that- they run a long time, are safe with great features, but need frequent and expensive maintenance along the way.

    Am I right?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    depends. do you rely on the dealer for your maintenance? If so, I'd say it might seem expensive. Then again, my Honda dealer wants almost $100 every 7.5K mile service and almost $500 every 15K. Its not what I would consider a bargain, so I don't go there.

    My Volvo dealer charges $55 just for an oil change. That's why I don't go there, either. With no dealer in the equation, my Volvo has been no more expensive than any other car I've owned (so far). Things like brake pads, wires, rotor, plugs, distributor cap, air filter, fuel filter, etc, etc cost no more than any other car in my stable.

    There have been, however, a couple of common failures I've had to deal with, but the minor oil leak caused by the turbo oil return lines (costs about $2 for a new seal and takes 30 minutes to fix) and the failed ABS controller ($180 to get it fixed by mail) really haven't been tragic.

    I don't know what there is to be afraid of on your S70 base model. That ABS controller is about the only thing you can count on going wrong. Anything else is just as reliable and costly as any other car.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    qbrozen,

    Your points are well taken and yes, I have found a great independent Volvo/Saab shop close by and I trust them (they were recommended to me and I recommend them to other people). When I took my S-70 to the Volvo dealer, I was really charged and they always seemed to keep the car longer than they had estimated. Are the rates at the independent really low- no, but their quality is high, I don't mind paying a few hundred extra per year for good maintenance.

    But interestingly, the latest issue of Consumer Reports came out, and they confirmed what has been going on for quite some time- the European makes (especially BMW and Mercedes, but the Volvo S-80 also) have much worse reliabilty records than the Japanese makes, even worse than many of the American vehicles (cars and trucks included). So it seems to me that you are getting a reliablity/cost tradeoff to get the excellent engineering and safety that the Volvo provides. Too bad you can't get that with the low everall maintenance record of a Honda or Toyota.
  • jah1jah1 Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I were considering a 98-99 S70, but I have read a lot of negative reviews. The reason for considering the Volvo is obviously their saftey record and I thought reliability. Reading many of the reveiws there seems to be a lot of electrical and break problems, and repairs can become costly. I know this can happen with any car that is 6 yrs old with 60-100k on it, but there seems to be a pretty consistent trend with the S70. Now I am back to considering a Nissan or Honda, but I am not sure of their saftey record. I didnt want to become a conformist, but I guess there is a reason why you see them everywhere. Should I stay away from the Volvo and go nissan or honda? I really had my sights on one, but after reading the negative pub. I dont know what to do. I appreciate any thoughts or comments.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    well, I am probably in the minority, but I really don't put much faith in Consumer Reports.

    Out of curiosity, do they detail how they compile their data? I'd love to know. I can think of a dozen ways the results could be misinterpreted or compiled incorrectly. I would hope they have a strong system, but you never know.

    Also, what kind of timeframe is that "reliability" based on? Are they comparing, for instance, 200K mile Accords to 200K mile S70s and 200K mile 5-series all from the same year? And did they survey the same percentage of owners of said vehicles (which would mean surveying many more Accord owners than the other 2 since many more were sold in any given year). Its very tricky to compare something like reliability.

    I have heard that Consumer Reports does some sort of "initial quality" or "initial reliability" survey, which, to me, is useless. Personally, I don't care much about the years while under warranty (unless we're talking about a real lemon). I care about how a car will be when its out of warranty.

    Now, of course, personal experience is what sways folks the most. Take the last poster, for example, he believes Nissan and Honda are lumped together for reliability and Volvo is falling behind. My personal experience tells me otherwise. Which, I suppose, brings me back to my point that I don't look at Consumer Reports.

    edit - i just went forward through my subscriptions, and they are also talking about this subject on the S60 board. Someone said that consumer reports rates the S60 as good. so kinda conflicting data.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    I read the reviews of cars on line (of course), from automotive magazines (Car and Driver specifically) and Consumer Reports. And as a subscriber to the magazine, every year you get this survey to fill out in which you tell them what you own (cars, coffee makers, computer printers, you name it) and then go through the problems that you have had with it (for cars, electrical, A/C, etc). Is the system perfect- heck no, people usually complain more than they compliment, but is there another way to measure reliability and owner satisfaction?

    And by the way, even under warranty, I don't like the hassle of taking in a car for frequent maintenance, getting appointments, dropping it off, all that. I guess I want my cars to be like my refrigerator- nice features and so reliable that I don't even think about downtime with it.

    But the tradeoff (that I made) is that the safety and engineering of the car may outweigh the additional maintenance, (if it's not too bad). I just read that in whiplash injuries, the Volvo's (as usual) were rated best. That counts for me anyway.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    ok, so they survey their subscribers. Interesting. Kinda skews the results to begin with, if you ask me. But, no, I can't think of another way to do it. Especially given the "do not call list." ;)

    Well, like I mentioned, I'd prefer to see something like "we randomly surveyed 1% of owners of these cars with between 80K and 150K miles and here's what they said." I know its not easy, but its really the only fair way. Anyhoo, like I said, this is why I don't rely on consumer reports for the most part.

    This is interesting to me to discuss, but I guess we're way off topic.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • cacamiocacamio Member Posts: 8
    My '99 S70 recently developed an intermittent starting problem just like message #628. Clearing the key code did not work, changing out the reciever/antenna did not work. The dealer is now making a concerted effort to pin this down. What would the diagnostic algorithm be for this car stalling out in less then a second (all three keys tried and failed) intermittently? Please help!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    have they changed the ignition? Sounds to me like its failing to recognize the keys on occassion. You said they changed the receiver/antenna, but I'm not sure what that means.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • gthomaspa1gthomaspa1 Member Posts: 3
    This is #628 and I am still having intermittent starting problems. I've changed keys but that did not take care of problem. Dealer thinks it might be antenna ring, but that must be checked after I've had the problem, got the car started and got to the dealership (25 miles from home) without shutting off the car. They will then put it on the diagnostic machine and see if a "bad antenna ring" code is listed. If not, it just a guessing game that can get very expensive and quite frustrating. What I've been doing when it stalls once or twice after attempting to start it is remove the key from the ignition and either try and re-insert it, crank it up and hope that it starts or insert a spare key (valet key) that I keep in my glove box. The last several months, this method has been working for me..whether or not it is just "luck" or not, I don't know. For almost $35,000, I would expect a car that's a little more dependable. When it runs, it runs well and it is a joy to drive...but, it is becomming a real "pain in the butt"! Recently, I've been noticing my dashboard graphics, fuel consumption, temp., odometer, etc. is beginning to act a little erratic. It was fixed once before under warranty, but that's not the case now. Although I've had the car almost 5 years (MAY), I only have 44,000 miles on it. I don't think I'd buy another.

    Sorry for the lengthy discourse.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    well, sorry to hear of your ongoing issue. I'm not sure I would settle with them just swapping the antenna. I think maybe a whole new ignition with new keys is in order. If that STILL doesn't fix it, then its obviously a deeper rooted problem and they can stop playing around with the keys.

     

    Well, good thing for you they don't make the S70 anymore, so you need not even concern yourself with buying another. ;)

    Yeah, ok, I assume you meant "another Volvo." But, in any case, as many consumers do, I think you are writing off a brand based on one poor service department. If you had brought this to another dealership... who knows? They may have fixed it in one shot.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • scottlscottl Member Posts: 109
    I'm looking for a reasonably inexpensive, safe AWD car. A local dealer has a '99 S70 AWD Sedan with only 50K miles for $13K. I like to take my vehicles to 150-200K miles before I retire them, and I've been very successful with GM, Mazda and Mitsubishi. I've never owned a Volvo or any other Euro car. I know a lot of satisfied Volvo owners, but I also know a lot of 'satisfied' Volvo owners who have spent big money for the occasional out of warrantee repair.

     

    I'm getting scared off by all the posts on this board about a very wide variety of expensive problems.

     

    This isn't the place for an unbiased opinion, but I'll ask a couple of questions:

     

    Does anyone here have an S70 AWD with over 150K miles? If so, be honest: exactly what out of warrantee repairs did you require, and how much did they cost?

     

    Are all S70 AWD Turbos automatic? I'd really rather have a 5-speed, if possible.

     

    Do the XC70 wagons have the same issues?

     

    I can get a 1999 MB ML320 for about the same price, but I see a lot of traffic about their problems, too. Auto only for that vehicle, too.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    All S70 AWDs were automatic.

     

    What problems there were were minor. Mostly headlight bulbs failing,squeaks and rattles.

    The 98 V70 XC's had some driveshaft issues, but those were addressed by 99.

    Maintenance won't be cheap. Timing belt needs replacing every 100k, plugs every 30k.

    By and large a good car, that will last a long time if cared for properly. Just don't expect japanese style low running costs on ANY European car.
  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    I agree with volvomax. I have a 98 S-70 (not AWD, but the base model), that now has about 86K miles, and is running strong, no rattles, still tight as a new car, enjoy the seats, the design and engineering, the handling, and the feeling of safety (but I REALLY enjoy the fact that it runs well and is paid off!). But in seems in all European models, you will have more frequent and expensive maintenance than the Japanese makes and even American cars- I have a great independent repair and maintenance place (not a dealer), but even then, $1500-$2000 a year for maintenance is what I expect, and that is without "catastrophic" repairs, such as a transmission replacement. I'll bet that Mercedes, BMW, Saab, Jaguar, etc are about the same. The other thing is that most European cars require premium fuel, not so with most Japanese makes, which adds 20 cents per gallon used. But that's OK, a new car is still way more expensive than that.

     

    So just know what you are getting into. But I also am pretty confident that my car with go for 100K more miles easily, maybe more.
  • scottlscottl Member Posts: 109
    Do you have any idea how much the timing belt replace costs?
  • scottlscottl Member Posts: 109
    How does the $1500-$2000 year in 'maintenance' break down? Is it really 'maintenance' or is it things breaking?

     

    I change my own oil and filters, brake pads, etc. Are you actually incurring that much in maintenance or are you talking about repairs?
  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    My $1500-$2000 repairs and maintenance are for things like the 60K maintenance (maybe $600-800), some sensors that go bad and need replacement, minor electrical things that are pretty expensive (like my power antenna that broke- $180), then oil changes, things like brake pads (Volvos have good brakes but go through the pads quickly), clogged up windshield washers that needed new (and expensive) nozzles and even a radio replacement (about $300). It adds up.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    i had just figured this out the other day. To the best of my recollection, over the past 3.5 years, I have averaged about $725 a year.

     

    Lweiss just reminded me that I had to fix my antenna, but that only cost me about $25 (FYI, you can get a new mast/nylon gear thingy online and take apart and rebuild the unit - its a big PITA, but obviously saves quite a bit of cash).

     

    But that illustrates why my cost is low. I have done most of the work myself. Other than $29 oil changes at the local Volvo independent mechanic and the 2 trips to the dealer for sensors I couldn't diagnose (about $200 average per trip), I've taken care of the rest. To date, I've done 2 full tune-ups, a timing belt, shocks/struts and mounts, all pads and rotors once, then front pads and rotors again along with one seized caliper, and the cabin filter a couple of times. I think that about covers it. Oh, and 3 tranny flushes (which also had done at dealer, so add that to the list of non-self-performed maintenance).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mdwalton1mdwalton1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi all,

     

    I'm new to this site and am having trouble locating the info. I need. I have a 99 S70 with 95,000 miles on it, and I notice that when I turn, doesn't matter, left or right but usually when pulling into a parking space, sometimes I notice a strange noise. I had it in once and they told me that something called splines (??) were rubbing together, so they fixed it by gluing them back in place, but it seems that didn't really help after all. People I've asked seem to think it could be an axle problem, which sounds expensive to me. The car is under warranty until May and is due for a 97500 checkup in April. Any ideas on this noise?

     

    Also, the dealership just sent me some "coupons" and I have no idea if they're good deals or not. Disc brake special that includes replacing brake pads, inspecting brake rotors and calipers, and inspecting parking brake operation costs $139.24 per axle. I'm looking at the owner's manual trying to figure out exactly what they're going to check on the car when I take it in, but unfortunately I don't have it right in front of me right now. I didn't think they were doing anything but checking the pads for this checkup, so is this $139.24 a good deal? Any thoughts? Basically I need to get a Volvo for Dummies book because while I've had the thing for 2 years and it's given me very minor problems, it's now getting older and I want to be sure that I don't get taken by the dealers....everyone's nightmare, I suppose. So any guidance, help, etc. will be greatly appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    What kind of noise? Grinding noise?

    Usually, when you get noises turning the wheel at low speeds (like parking), this is just a matter of the steering stops needing grease. Mine got to the point where the noise was VERY harsh, and I didn't think just greasing the steering stops could possibly fix such a noise ... but I was wrong.

     

    So... $270 to do brake pads and a brake inspection? Sounds kinda pricey. Maybe check with a brake specialist kinda place like Meineke (or is it Midas?) and see what they would charge for such a service. They also warranty the brakes for the life of the car after they do the job, so don't forget that added bonus.

     

    For more in depth technical info on your particular car (mine is a '98, which is a bit different), you may want to check out swedespeed or volvospeed. There is also a list of maintenance information and instructions on the latter.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mdwalton1mdwalton1 Member Posts: 8
    Thank you thank you thank you for pointing me in the direction of some more information. The noise in particular could be construed as a grinding noise, I suppose. To me, and it's especially noticable when I make a left turn, it sounds like a little pop. What's really frustrating is that it doesn't do it all the time, and not usually when I make a slow, wide turn - just when I do a hard fast turn (which I know I shouldn't do and I'm working on that).

     

    Thanks again for your help!!!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    no problem.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    I recently purchased a '98 S-70 and it does not have a CD player. Does anyone know if the car is pre-wired for a changer? Is it better to simply get an after market radio?

     

    Also, I seem to have broken the drivers door lock last night by manually locking the door. Electric lock still works but the stem not longer seems to be attached to anything. Is there some unspoken Volvo rule against using the door lock manually?

     

    I do have a good independent shop I used back in the '80's when I owned 2 Volvo's.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    door lock is a new one on me.

     

    No CD player?? I had absolutely no idea this was even an option. Well, the best solution I can think of is to pick up a whole new head unit off Ebay. I see them all the time. there are various models, but a couple of the numbers I can think of off the top of my head are SC-816 and SC-901.

     

    Since I never heard of no CD player, I have no idea if your particular car can take the CD changer.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    In '98 the CD player was an option. I hesitate buying one of the e-bay radios as I have had reliability problems with Volvo audio in the past.

     

    I'm thinking I'll put a nice Alpine system in, should sound nice with those 8 speakers.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    ah, now i see, it was only standard on the T5.

     

    FWIW, I absolutely love my stock stereo. Its the best sounding system I've ever had. 7 years old and still going strong, too.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Most S70's were not pre-wired for CD changers. However the off the shelf Alpine changer should work. It wasn't until later that the radio design was changed to dissuade people from using the aftermarket Alpine(as opposed to the factory sourced Alpine) changer.
  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    Timing belt is $163.50 at my local Volvo Independent shop... by the way I bought a '98 S70 2 months ago, other than killing it the first day I owned it by washing the engine (who knew Volvo used actual rotors under the caps in '98??) It's been a blast to drive and the most comfortable cars I've ever driven.
  • jonbaumjonbaum Member Posts: 1
    This is similar to 628 but in a 98 S70 GLT. The engine will run for about 10 seconds and quit. It does not seem to run the fuel pump, however I can remove its fuse and reinsert it and it will pressurize the line so it will run again for another 10 seconds and quit. Any ideas?
  • myfirstvolvomyfirstvolvo Member Posts: 1
    I have a startng problem with my S70. I was waiting for my son and I had the keys in the ignition but only to run the radio. When it was time to start the car it turned over and started like normal, but when it went to idle down it died. Did this 4 or 5 times then on the 6th time as the car started, I reved it up for about 5 or 6 seconds and when it idled down it was ok. Same thing happened to my wife with her key. Anyone have any idea of what is going on?????

    Thanks for your response.
  • bowmanzabowmanza Member Posts: 7
    I just bought my first volvo last wed. I bought a 98 volvo s70 with 100k on it. Now that may seem high, but i was reassured that this was totally ok by volvo standards.
    I do have a few questions... I have noticed a few things 1) the intenna makes noise when i turn off the car, but does not descend into the car... what does that mean? 2) Are michelins good tires to put on the car, if so what kind? 3) I read that for the turbo, which i have, that changing the oil every 5,000 miles is normal... really? 4) Finally, Should I take in the car for a 100k check up.... is that normal.
    I am such a novice, so any advice would be great. By the way i love this car. Life seems, at least, a little better in a volvo.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Antenna noise means you need a new antenna, the plastic grooves are stripped so the antenna won't retract.

    Michelins are fine if expensive. Continentals and Falkens are cheaper alternatives.

    Oil change interval for the S70 turbo was every 5,000 miles.

    You do need to find out if the timing belt has been changed, if not it is time to do so.

    Good luck
  • reds70reds70 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 S70 with over 100k, and I am having issues with the spark plugs not firing. It seems that the distributor cap leaks and water condenses, or some problem of that sort. Anyone else have this issue? Am I missing something?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    volvomax covered your questions.

    BUT, I wanted to expand on the oil change interval. IF your driving habits fall into the more severe category (short drives, commonly cold temps, stop and go traffic), you should change it more often. I would say if you are 75% highway driving, then 5K miles is fine ... as long as you don't go to JiffyLube-type places.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,924
    i'm not clear on your question. Is there water under the cap? Or are you saying it acts like there is?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • bowmanzabowmanza Member Posts: 7
    I really appreciate the help, thank you both. Any other advice? One more question... there is a kinda tick when the engine is running, you could even call it a modest knock, does that spell trouble or is that the normal volvo engine noise. Just to clarify the knock isn't abrasive, just noticeable. Thanks again.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Sounds like the lifters are noisy.
    Not dangerous, just annoying.
  • reds70reds70 Member Posts: 4
    yes, it does seem that there is water, but no cap. The coil apparently has gone bad in one cylinder. Is this a mileage thing? It seems to happen after it has rained. So how does that effect the coil?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    If the coil pack is cracked and allows moisture in it, it will act just like the old rotors when they cracked, aka bad misfire and loss of power. Replace the bad coil and your problem will disappear. But it could also simply be bad spark plug wires.
  • ericqericq Member Posts: 6
    I have done a few antenna jobs. If your antenna is like my '93 850 you will only need to replace the antenna mast, not the whole motor assembly. It is easy and cheap(under $50 p&l). Make sure it is lubed periodically. As for timing belt, look at Gates rubber web site for info on which car motors have something called an interference design. Not going to go into it here. Many Volvos have it and it means that you should not delay timing belt change, even though the job is all labor and only $25 for belt.
  • abvbynd02abvbynd02 Member Posts: 5
    I've read thru many posts on this forum. We purchased a 98 S70 T5 in mid 1998 and it has been an excellent vehicle. We also purchased the extended warranty which covers everthing on the car for 150,000 miles. We have had a few occasions to use the extended warranty (ABS system failure, A/C computer replacement,etc...) but overall this has been a great car to drive. We have had the dealer service the car every 5,000 miles (as it has the high pressure turbo), to ensure there was no question on our warranty coverage. We have however used Synthetic Oil in the car since it was brand new (changed at around 500 miles). If you want to ensure your engine will continue to purr, I highly recommend using a true full synthetic oil. The oil is 5w40, and is made in the USA. We have had very few problems with the car and the engine is as sound today as it was when we first purchased. I have not experienced any of the problems that I've seen mentioned in other posts. But you have to make sure you get your car serviced by a Volvo trained shop, be it an independent or a dealer. This has been an excellent car for us and I expect it to run to at least 500,000 miles. That's what we had on our 1985 760 Turbo before we retired the car. I also don't see where the services costs are any greater than Toyota....our daughter had a Camry and the service costs were pretty much equivalent to what we payed for our respective services. To date we are very happy with the vehicle!
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