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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • arnejarnej Member Posts: 9
    our '94 gr. caravan with 3.8 engine has had intermittant hesitating/jerking at highway speeds for the last 6,000 miles. We've had spark plugs & wires replaced and had the mechanic hook up the van to the computer and can't seem to find the problem. It also seems to have problem starting at times, mostly when it's damp.Help please!
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Aaron: It sounds like you are describing plug misfire. With new plugs and wires and no computer code, I'd guess a coil or distributor problem.
  • arnejarnej Member Posts: 9
    thanks for your advice about the hesitating/jerking!
    I'll let you know it that solved it once we get some $$ to get it looked at.
    aaron
  • gizmoegizmoe Member Posts: 2
    I have a squeking/creaking noise coming from the rear passenger side of my van. It is there when I go over dips in the road or speed bumps. Also, the noise appears when it is cold outside in the morning. It's gone when it's hot in the afternoon.

    I do my own oil changes. Do I have to lube any suspension parts in the rear of the van when doing oil changes?
    Could it be the struts/shock absorber?

    Thanks.
    Michael
  • ntbtbtntbtbt Member Posts: 1
    My horn, cruise control, "air bag" idiot light, all come and go. They work for 1/2 a day, then don't work. When you unlock the driver's door, often the automatic door locks will start clicking back and forth, locking and unlocking. Also almost daily the alarm goes off when unlocking the driver's door with the key. Would someone please tell me what's going on?? Thanks!! This is a '96 Voyager with 79,000 miles.
  • pnh21pnh21 Member Posts: 10
    Try checking the condition of the battery, clean the battery posts and cables and be sure that they are making good contact. Do not rely on just looking at them. CAUTION, if you disconnect the battery and you have a radio that has a security code, be sure that you know what that code is. Also, your tranny may not run smoothly for a day or two as it will go into learning mode whenever the battery is disco'ed. I read on other forums that the electrical components will sometimes go crazy when the battery is ready to die.
  • fant16fant16 Member Posts: 6
    How difficult is replacing the PCV valve on a 98 GC with the 3.0 engine? Is the PCV valve under the fuel injection assembly? If so, can the PCV valve be replaced with out removing the fuel injection assembly?

    Thanks, in advance for all reponses.
  • pmaceypmacey Member Posts: 33
    I knew I should have turned the van in after the lease was up end of August! (see my other posts re: brake problems)

    We now have spotty heat or lack of hot air blowing out of the vents. All vents work, all positions work on the fan switch, we get plenty of air but it will start out warm to hot then fade to cool or cold. FWIW, the engine temp heats up normally.

    We have the SWB model with the 4-cyl engine, no rear outlets. Van now has about 48K miles on it.

    What are some common causes I can check into?

    Is this a common problem?

    Thanks in advance (again)...
  • monty2222monty2222 Member Posts: 48
    I have a 1996 Grand Caravan ES (just bought used). After a rain, I have water on the carpets at the base of the drivers door, and the rear hatch, probably elsewhere too. Has anyone found and fixed this problem before? Thanks.
    Monty
  • arnejarnej Member Posts: 9
    what kind of problems could you expect if your fuel pump on your Dodge GC is going bad? Could you experience intermittant hesitation while cruising at highway speeds?

    Thanks for any info you can provide!!!
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Gene, The PCV valve should be on the valve cover not far from the oil filler cap. It will be about the diameter of a penny and 1 1/2" long with a rubber tube going to the air intake.

    Paul, With good air flow and normal engine temp, you have either a problem of loss of hot water flow in the heater core or air not coming through the core. I don't know this system 1st hand, but I think the air flow is cable controlled so I doubt it would change from warm to cold if the cable was malfunctioning. So I suspect a heater core that has poor hot water flow and quickly cools down.
  • kelly_ttkelly_tt Member Posts: 1
    Hey Michael - it's not the struts. Possibly the strut plates? I can't remember now what the dealership replaced for me (under warranty). Had the exact same problem in our 2000 Gr. Caravan Sport - FYI. Sorry I can't remember the exact name of what they replaced, I just remember I had suspected the struts as well and it wasn't it. Good luck!
  • desertkevdesertkev Member Posts: 76
    I have a '00 T&C with a 3.8 liter. A month after I bought it brand new I had multiple minor complaints (window molding coming off, carpet on doors bubbling, radio died.) Then it got to be winter and I had a bad creaking noise from driver side slider...dealer has yet to fix it...goes away in summer. The Tranny cooler lines had to be replaced and NOW it burns a quart of oil b/w oil changes. I have always used Mobil 1 on every car I owned and never burned a quart of oil b/w changes (except that 67 chevy I owned.) The dealer tells me after doing a oil consumption test that it is normal to burn a quart of oil. I told him that is garbage but he told me the regional rep wont let him do anything else (like breaking down the engine---not something I want to see done anyways.) Anyone have a problem with the oil....that is my biggest concern...I have 3000 miles till the warranty is done and that is the next time they will check the oil consumption. HELP!!
  • dhiggin02dhiggin02 Member Posts: 5
    We bought a 2001 dodge caravan sport. Chrysler vans are the most inspiring in design to me in terms of minivans and I love the layout, they're comfortable, roomy, have good cargo space and everything seems to be built pretty good and practical but they have numerous troubles. air bag and seatbelt lights turning on and off for no reason, different powered things going bad for no reason but I still see 89 model chryslers still being driven. They drive well and are overall good vans.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I own a '99 GCS with the 3.8L and it has never burned oil. I've never had to add oil in between changes (done every 3000-4000 miles). The van has almost 40,000 miles on it now.

    I've had creaking noises from both sliders in the winter (I live in Minnesota), although the passenger side was the worst. When I mentioned it two years ago, the service adjuster said that was a common problem and replaced the sliding mechanisms on both doors under warranty. That was two winters ago. There was a bit of a squeak from the passenger door last winter during the really cold weather, but not a big deal.

    Note: my dealer is one of those Dodge 5-star dealers. I don't know if that makes a difference, but they have always given me great service over my 11 years of Caravan ownership. I take my present van there for service even though I didn't buy it there.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Over the years I have read a lot of articles about oil consumption and the consensus is that what the dealer told you was correct. Because of the tolerances involved in the manufacturing process, it is "normal" at times for an engine to burn a quart every 1000-1500 miles without there actually being anything wrong with it. This goes for all makes and models, regardless of country of origin. I certainly wouldn't be happy if I had a new car that burned this much oil but apparently, it happens.
    BTW, we have as a beater a 1988 GC that we bought new and now has 194,000 miles on it. It was a POS in its early years with about everything possible going wrong with it but the last few years it has actually done fairly well.
  • maw1982maw1982 Member Posts: 62
    I have finally figured out the lifespan of a DC van. It is around 60k. I just traded in my '99 GC ES AWD 55k because the following things needed attention and the total repair bill was going to be around $3k:

    brakes all around (all discs)
    shocks/strusts (creaked moaned and had more play then they should have)
    altrenator (new battery died twice for no reason)
    water pump
    various sensors (had dismal fuel economy and a tune-up did not do the trick)
    other various problems (blown speaker, carpet needed replacing, etc.)

    I got a brand new '02 ES MSRP 36.5k off the lot and with discounts, trade-in, and the top of the line extended b2b 7/70k warranty I was out the door for $24 plus TT.

    I would have loved to keep my '99 but the cost of keping the car on the road between the impending repairs and the fuel usage was more than the payment on this new one.

    I hope my '02 experience is much more pleasent than the two months that I owned my '99.
  • thewallusathewallusa Member Posts: 1
    I know this is a petty problem but is the first on my 98 GC with 62k.The overhead light does not go on when you open the driver's door nor will the headlight warning chime even if the switch is properly positioned. Light will work when using the remote to unlock the doors or using inside switch.What do you think, impossibly expensive and not worth bothering with, or something that has an easy fix.I love the car and plan to buy another in another year or so.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Try the inside light thumbwheel switch, rotate to full off then on to the level you like.
  • twtoytwtoy Member Posts: 1
    Recently I had my A/C (condenser)disconnected electrically speaking rather than paying to have it fixed. Too many miles on this 96 Plymouth G-Voy van. The problem is that the belt still drives all auxiliary components including the condenser for the air. The condenser is now making a terrible racket. I am told eventually the condenser will seize-up and I'll burn my belt out. Then have to fix the air. Is there anyway to by-pass the non-functioning compressor? Or somehow dis-engage the pulley and shaft from driving the internal components of the compressor to avoid seizing up? What about adding oil/lubricants to the condenser? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    What your belt is driving is actually the clutch for the compressor which has its own set of bearings separate from the compressor itself although they are mechanically linked together when power is applied to the clutch. I don't think disconnecting it electrically did much for you that you couldn't have done by not selecting A/C or defrost. I also think that the odds are low that you could bypass it since the serpentine belt drives everything.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I just saw this in Automotive News magazine today.

    " Chrysler recalls minivans

    Automotive News / November 11, 2002

    DETROIT -- The Chrysler group is recalling 500,000 minivans from the 1996-98 model years to replace a steering wheel part called the clockspring.

    Only vehicles driven fewer than 70,000 miles get new clocksprings. The other 1.3 million will get lifetime clockspring warranties. Off-center installation of the original clockspring makes the airbag warning light come on and, over time, causes the horn, cruise control and driver's airbag to stop working."

    I called Dodge dealer and they said when I get my recall notice, I will present my repair bill and they will pay me back.
  • bthomas115bthomas115 Member Posts: 2
    My Passenger Side 2001 Grand Caravan Door opens and stays locked open intermittently. The only way to close is is to wrestle it closed. I have a block of wood in there to keep it from opening all the way, so I can use the door manually. The Local Dodge Dealer (Smithaven Dodge, Lake Grove,NY) told they would have to replace the whole latch assembly at $800.00 plus. The problem started at 50,000 miles when the truck was one year and and out of warranty. It now has 67000 miles and Dodge stays tough luck. I can see why Dodge increased the warranty on the truck, It's been a nightmare. Any similar problems out there?
  • kenovokenovo Member Posts: 2
    I'm thinking about purchasing a 2002 GC used with 15,000 miles on it (short term lease return)it has the 3.3 engine and the salesman tells me the transmission problems have been pretty much resolved by Chrysler and they are giving an 8 year 80,000 mile Chrysler warranty on it. I love the way that van drives and handles, not a rattle in it, it seems more solid than my '99 Sienna and handles better. I want a van with lower miles than my Sienna has but a new one is priced out of sight. I'm still skeptical about the tranny however, irrespective of the warranty I just don't want the hassle. Is it true that the newer vans have better transmissions in your experiences? Thanks for your input.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    The question is, better than what? Better than my '94 GC with 60K miles which is on it third trans, probably. Not as good as a GM powertrain, IMO. I shopped for an 02 and then an 03 GC, waiting for DC to replace the Gen 3 buckles, to no avail. Ordered a large sedan instead. BTW, the large sedan has the Latch system and will secure 3 car seats. If I had gone for the new GC I would have been more concerned about electrical problems than with the trans.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I might be one of the lucky ones, but our 97 GC LE that we bought new, has 111K miles on it, with no tranny problem ever. I had the fluid and filter changed at Dodge dealer at 50K, 75K, and 100K.

    We have been very happy with this van, I would not hesitate to buy another Dodge Caravan. I know Chrysler has a very spotty quality record with a lot of you, and that is a shame.
  • dveitdveit Member Posts: 1
    Got delivery of a brand new '03 Grand Caravan w/3.3L and almost from the start (first week and first 100 miles) I noticed it will not drive straight. I did not notice it when it was driven off the lot with 12 miles on it. It pulls and drifts to the right while cruising at 55 and while accelerating. It isn't a severe pull, but it is definitely noticeable and will direct you toward the road shoulder if you let it. I had to put on 2500 miles in a week's time before I could get it over to the dealer so now I've got a 2 1/2 week old van with 2500 miles on it and the dealer has had it for three days and can't find the cause. They agree it drives erratically but the tires check out OK, the alignment is within spec, and they even replaced an axle thinking it might be a torque-induced problem.

    Has anyone out there had any experiences similar to this?
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    I would check tire pressure and maybe try 2 or 3# less on the L front. I'd also ask if brake drag was rulled out. I would also try moving rear tires to front and crossing front tires onto rear axle. (left front to right rear etc).
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I've had this happen with two different sets of Dunlops. In my case, the tire itself was the culprit. As royallen suggested about moving the tires, if this cures the problem, make whoever the tire manufacturer is replace the tire. I personally don't feel that fudging air pressure to make the problem disappear is the correct approach. With even air pressure all the way around and with the alignment in spec, the car should steer straight, period.
  • arnejarnej Member Posts: 9
    Hi everyone!
    I'm back with another problem on our '94 GC with 3.8 engine.

    this time it's stalling and then it takes a few times to try to restart the van. it usually happens if the van has been idling for a few minutes.
    i'd appreciate any troubleshooting/advice.
    thanks!
    arnej
  • phartmanphartman Member Posts: 4
    Could anybody help with a 1998 Voyager leaking oil? Seems to be splashing around the engine compartment and driping down in a wide area on the garage floor. Shop said it looked like a head gasket, somewhere north of $1000 to repair. Yikes! The whole car is worth maybe $5k. Was there a recall? Thanks for any help.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Get another mechanic or at least a second opinion, pronto. A head gasket will not generally leak oil external to the engine, coolant yes but not oil. I have seen oil leak into the coolant but not externally. Far and away the most likely culprit is a valve cover gasket which isn't hard to replace and for far, far less than what you were quoted.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Aaron, check out www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html
  • phartmanphartman Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tip. I'll get a second and let you know.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I've got a '96 Grd. Voyager w/95,000 miles. For the most part it runs great and we have no complaints. We take it back and forth on 16-hour round trips and it performs wonderfully. Many thanks to all of you for your help in diagnosing problems and providing advice. One more for you: We have a small transmission leak coming from the "pan" at the bottom of the transmission. I can see that it appears to be leaking from what I'm assuming would be the gasket on this pan. The last time I had it in the mechanics shop he said to not worry about it - it was a small leak. It's still a "small" leak but I've noticed a bit more spotting on the garage floor than in the past. I'd say in the past we'd get a drop or two every other day. Now there seems to be 2-3 drops every day. Does anyone have any experience with this gasket? Easy to replace? If I have the mechanic do it what should I expect to pay?

    To the guy worried about the transmission (aside from my minor leak!). I have the '96 which is supposed to have one of the worst trans. reputations and mine's been just fine. I work in the metro Detroit area and I don't hear many complaints from DC folks about the trannys on the newer ones.

    To phartman (nice name bud) re: head gasket. We had ours replaced after it was leaking oil at about 80k miles. I think the total was around $900. It looked "easy" to replace but then again it was literally buried under a mountain of other stuff and I could see myself getting in trouble doing that job. It does seem that the head gaskets go on a fair number of the mid to late '90's DC minivans. By the way, what's the difference between a head gasket and a valve cover gasket?

    Thanks all,
    Rob
  • arnejarnej Member Posts: 9
    Hey thanks royallen for the link to the Nopar engine stall site. it looks like these blasted engines have had quite a few things go wrong.

    are you a master mechanic or where do you get all your smarts? anyway you're a blessing to us stuck with these beasts.

    Happy Thanksgiving to all of you!~Aaron
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Have you tried a throttle body cleaner? Remove the large rubber intake hose at the throttle body so you can see the throttle plate. Using a throttle body cleaner that will not harm oxygen sensors or emission controls, spray the area around the throttle plate and open the throttle and spray inside as well. If you see a black deposit on and around the throttle plate spray and wipe until it is clean. Follow the directions on the cleaner spray can, and do not use carb cleaner.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Someone said " a bad head gasket would not cause oil leaks. Coolant leak or oil in coolant but not an oil leak."

    I, for one, disagree. I had a 95 Dodge Stratus with 2.4L engine which started with a small oil leak on the back side of the engine by firewall. It started as a drip, and ended up with a mess on underbody. It was the head gasket and cost $550 to fix at the Dodge dealer. As usual the mechanic showed me the old gasket and said " They all do that!!! all 95-96 were doing that and in 97 they came up with a one piece gasket instead of a two piece one (small piece in a larger piece.)"
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    No, I'm not a pro, just a Brown belt shade tree guy. I did get a nice Sears compressor this year so I even sound a little like a pro! : )
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    My wife's 2000 GCS just quit running one day. She managed to limp home with a lot of sputtering, rough running etc. The thing was due for a major service anyway, so, rather than paying to tow it, I decided to spend the money on a new battery and drive it straight to the dealer for the service and electrical system investigation. I never really thought the battery was bad, I'm just cheap and didn't want to spend the money to tow it. When I dropped the battery in, it fired right up and ran fine. The dealer checked the system and could find nothing wrong. It has run just fine since. I've never had a battery last only two years.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The battery on my '99 GCS lasted only 3 years and about 30,000 miles. Then it failed one day, suddenly, and I wound up spending $180 for a new battery and diagnostic fees at the dealer. On top of that, they didn't connect the new battery securely so I had to take it in a few days later because of strange electrical problems--due to the botched battery installation. Next time, I'll install the battery myself.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Its still the easiest battery installation going. For $50 at the auto parts store, I got a battery with more CCA than the OEM. I was wondering about other experiences with batteries going south because I participate in a couple of other Chryco boards here and there seems to be a lot of this going around (a battery virus????). It also seems that with all the electronics in today's vehicles, a weak battery causes a sudden diabling instead of the gradual hard starting us old guys are used to.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    Agree with you; I replace mine ever 4 yrs. no matter what and never had a problem. Quality of auto batteries is very high so I expect most failures were caused by defects in the auto's electical system. You can get a good battery for 40-50 dollars. Cheaper than buying an expensive one that may not last much longer. They are very easy to install, also.
  • cmyers300mcmyers300m Member Posts: 206
    Well, I have a 96 GC. The tranny was replaced at 78K, it was $2K. I wasn't one of the lucky owners. Um, to STROKEOLUCK, I had a leak too before my transmission went out. It was due to a bad leaking tranny pump. The other big expense encountered was i had to replace both rear wheel bearing assemblies....cost $900.

    As far as batteries go, well, I think Chrysler's eat them for lunch. My van is on it's 3rd battery in 7 years. Seems it needs a new one every two-two and a half years. Never been able to find any unusual drain anywhere. I also own a '01 300M, and I know a lot of 99-00 M owners have already replaced their batteries as well.
    The worst thing is that when these batteries die there is NO warning. One day it's fine, the next it's dead.
  • cmyers300mcmyers300m Member Posts: 206
    Your best bet for replacement is to buy them at Sears like I do. Since Chryslers eat them so frequently, and Sears batteries have a 4-5 warranty on them, I just keep getting replacements for a fraction of ther cost. My last battery was about $20 for one of their best. The cost is based on your mileage/age, but it's a lot cheaper than paying full cost each time!
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Interesting....I have a '90 PGVLE, an '00
    DGCS and a '99 300M (Chrysler should love me!). I have replaced the trans in the '90 twice now, first at 68,500 then again at 135,000. Kind of interesting how close the lifespan of these two units was, isn't it? The first was covered under the old 7/70 warranty and like you, I got stung for $2K to do it again. I just noticed motor oil drops under the '00 for the first time so now, I've got to investigate that. RE: Sears and batteries, do you just buy them there and put in yourself or do you pay them to swap? If so, what's their labor fee for the 300M? I understand its a bear to get at and I'm still on the OEM.
  • phartmanphartman Member Posts: 4
    Took the 1998 Voyager to the dealer for a second opinion and they came up with head gasket, too. So they're doing it to the tune of $850. Engine has 85k, but I think it should last longer than that. Also, bugs me that Chrysler changed to a steel reinforced gasket on the engines later that model year. Anybody have good suggestions on how to complain loud enough to get them to pay for part of it?
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Lotsa luck in getting Chrysler to chip in part of the repair. My own experience and what I have heard from others is that they have a very poor track record in reimbursing for out of warranty repairs. 85K miles is pathetic for a head gasket. Which engine?
  • phartmanphartman Member Posts: 4
    It's a 2.4L DOHC 4 cylinder. I figured it would be an uphill battle to get any help from DC but I'll give it a try. They know why they started using a steel reinforced head gasket in this engine.
  • gblair2gblair2 Member Posts: 1
    I am curious why on the dashboard below the temp lever I have a set of switches for the rear wiper & washer & air etc. Four of these keep flashing namely the left top two & the bottom right two. Any suggestions?

    Glen.
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