Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

1323335373881

Comments

  • drivvendrivven Member Posts: 54
    Yep, we've replaced the struts on our '95 Voyager - 3 times at least!!! And it handles just like you described, a buckboard. Even after each replacement. Very annoying on the highway. It just kind of "boats" along and at times feels like it's going to bottom out. I thought it could be the springs up front, but a tire shop told me they were in fine shape. Something in my pseudo-engineering mind tells me not so. Something's got to be in a weakened condition up front.
    Can you replace these things on your own? I would imagine but I'd invest in a steel cup if I were you. Make sure you take all the load off the suspension first, and oh yeah, better have a good way of realigning after you do it. Good luck.
  • tmpinmetmpinme Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Grand Caravan that lost power steering while I was driving it. There was a break in one of the hoses (not a belt) and the dealer replace w/ no problem. He did say that they were now using a different type of hose which tells me they've seen this problem before. Thought people would want to know.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    The shocks aren't that difficult but the struts are another matter. To me, if you have to ask, then I wouldn't tackle it because it takes a special tool to compress the spring. One thing they do is realign the vehicle so you would have to have that done anyway.
  • pmaceypmacey Member Posts: 33
    Hey folks, thanks for the previous replies on this subject and Chrysler's "good will assistance" of me only paying $200 for a $700-800 head gasket repair bill.

    Got the van back today (after 3 days in their shop), they replaced both the head gasket and valve cover gasket, honored the $200 co-pay.

    Well, only 15 miles later, the "Check Engine Soon" light came on.

    I tried the on/off, on/off, on trick, also ran it thru the gears and back to park, and get no code at all.

    With the OBDII system aboard this 1998 vehicle, can only a scanner retrieve the error code (unlike my 2001 4.7 Dakota, where using the same procedure, I get codes)

    FWIW, I checked all the connections I could get to, on the powertrain, and reset the computer, which cleared the light...if the problem goes away, fine, it the light comes back on, back to the shop, unless someone is aware of how I can retrieve the codes on my own?

    Thanks in advance.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Doug,1785, my wife drives a '95 Caravan without ABS and it stops as other non-ABS vehicles I've had stop. I have a '95 Subaru Legacy Outback with ABS. Whether wet, snow or ice, I can "stomp and steer" with a nonskid stop every time. I am sure you have a malfunctioning ABS system.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    xingze-1788, If your fluid is full, your problem sounds severe. Does it get better when warm? Also does the fluid look good? A good way to check fluid is to cover a white paper with saran wrap and place drops of new fluid and drops of fluid from the tranny on it. Dark color or suspended particles indicate excess heat and wear.
  • mulfomimulfomi Member Posts: 56
    Well I made my 1,150 one way trip from Toledo Ohio to Melbourne Florida a couple weeks ago and everything went fine with my 2001 T&C LXI. Drove straight through on the way down (21 1/2 hours thanks to some accidents and construction on I-95) but returned over 2 days. The thumping problem that was fixed just before the trip did not return and the van performed flawlessly. I got 24.5 mpg for the trip. Total trip over 2,250 miles. Kids did great and made the investment in the Chrysler video system worth every penny.

    Thanks Chrysler!
  • pmaceypmacey Member Posts: 33
    After holding our van for 3 days to fix our head gasket problem (though it only cost me a $200 co-pay), no sooner do we get the van home and the Service Engine Soon light comes on.

    My wife brings it down and they scanned the code while she waited, they forget to write the code # down but it equates to: upstream O2 sensor staying center.

    Being how they just worked on a external oil leak, is there any way they could have caused this, possibly just a loose connection, or they got something dirty?

    Where is this sensor located and is it something I can get to and look at to check connections, reseat, clean, etc?

    This is just too much of a coincidence to believe it happened own it's own, no unless these things are prone to go at 52K miles and with 5 years of service?

    Other than potential emission problems, how long could one drive around like this?

    They want $110 for the part plus 1 hour labor at $78.80...do local garages or even tire stores fix this type of problem?

    Should I call the Customer Care 800 #, give them my reference # for the head gasket problem, and explain to them what happened and see if I can get any assistance?

    If I wasn't unemployeed, I may not tend to be so cost conscience, but at this point, we're on a strict budget.

    Thanks in advance
  • alan555alan555 Member Posts: 1
    Just got the $2000 bill to replace a 98 Plymouth Grand Voyager transmission. The tranny shop claims this is very common for Dodge/Plymouth. I will never buy one again.
  • pmaceypmacey Member Posts: 33
    Hi folks, see previous posts re: this subject?

    Is it normal to reset the computer after replacing a head gasket (and valve cover gasket?)

    I ask because after this work was done, we got a Service Engine Soon light, pointing to bad O2 sensor...I suspect they somehow caused this problem, and reset the computer, post inspection of their work, so the MIL wouldn't show up when we picked up the van (give me a break, drive it home, and the light comes on, too much of a coincidence for me to believe in!)

    Thoughts on a tactful way to ask the service dept about this, to catch them in the act?

    Thanks in advance...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds too coincidental to me too, and I've read that O2 sensors are damaged by oil, etc. Sounds like one of yours got fouled in the head gasket repair.

    But I don't turn wrenches. Try asking over in the "Check Engine" light discussion. Lots of pros hang out on the M&R board.

    Anyone else?

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Pmacey, hope you saw the reply from 0patience in the CEL discussion. He's one of the "pros" I was referring to.

    (Coolant counts as "etc." right?)

    Steve, Host
  • spiritualquestspiritualquest Member Posts: 26
    I have a replacement motor, found a way to get to the motor from the inside of the van. But now, I need to get the wiper unhooked from the motor. I do not see how this is done. Any help here would be appreciated. Would be helpful if you emailed me with the instructions.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Very simple, lift wiper off rear window as far off as it will go. At the base of the wiper near th half moon shaped cover over the shaft is a locking tab. pull the locking tab away from the shaft and wiggle the wiper arm assembly until it comes off. To replace reverse the process.
  • pmaceypmacey Member Posts: 33
    He Steve, thanks for the tip on going over to the CEL area, and yes, I did see the replies.

    I'll be calling DC Customer Care with a few questions.

    Thanks again.
  • drivvendrivven Member Posts: 54
    Thanks for the response Roy. Sorry I haven't peaked at the forum for a while so I missed your comments. It just could be that the ABS is not working properly, altho she says it feels to be working ok, it gives the requisite "pumping" feeling to the pedal, but to no avail. We've tried panic stops with it on dry pavement, to the point that the ABS reacts and it stops just fine - straight line like it's supposed to do.
    In the wet conditions she says she's sailed thru intersections as if hydroplaning, tho the water isn't deep at all, it's just on the surface.
    In the meantime we've discussed this with other DC owners and they've had no problems like this. Right now we're in the market for something a bit smaller than a mini-van but yet with the driving height advantage that the minis afford. It'll probably be in the realm of the mini-suv. They're a lot of them out there right now. In the meantime she's piloting a friend's 1977 Lincoln Continental Coupe!!!! Talk about a different perspective on the road, holy schmoly!!
    Thanks again Roy.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    In an earlier post you mentioned the tires have only 9000 miles. Check the traction rating on those tires. The ratings are printed on the sidewall. Traction (A,B, or C)A being the best. If they are inexpensive tires, the traction rating may be B or C that may be your problem
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    To Alan555, Sorry to hear about your transmission. We have a '96 with 103k and the transmission is working fine (had some minor trans. oil coming out the top of the dipstick but local shop unplugged some breathing hole and it's fine now).

    However I do take issue w/folks - not saying you - that forever write off an entire BRAND of vehicle because of a problem. It's certainly your right, and emotionally it feels good but logically I don't think it makes much sense. Why?

    For one, in my humble opinion, you'd have to have lived in a cave to NOT have known that Chrysler products had "some" problems with transmissions. And if your car market is anything like ours (I'm talking about used cars, I'm not a big fan of paying a 25% premium to enjoy the aroma of fine Corinthian leather), the transmission problems are already factored in to the Chrysler price. Theoretically, if you saw equivalent DC, Ford and GM minivans sitting side-by-side but the DC was $2000-$3000 less expensive, wouldn't you scratch your head? Again, not saying you encountered this, but that's what my market is like. BUT, as it relates to '94-'99 (?) DC minivans, I take the risk of winding up with a spotty transmission. That's the risk I took and so far snake eyes hasn't caught us. It's caveat emptor unfortunately. If you didn't know about the trans. problems when you bought the van then you didn't do your homework (leaving out the logic of whether or not DC should have made a BETTER transmission, I think we all know what the answer is to that one, but again I'm dealing with reality and trying not to p*ss into the wind - I find it's pointless). If you knew about the problems, saved some $ and still bought... then I have a used Pinto I'd like to sell you for a screaming bargain, fire extinguisher included. If you knew about the problem and DIDN'T save $...yikes.

    Happy Tuesday to all,
    Rob
  • plymouth1plymouth1 Member Posts: 14
    98 Grand Voyager Expresso bought new. Absolutely zero problems since day one! Very happy with it.
  • doghousedoghouse Member Posts: 1
    We are considering buying a 2000 Grand Caravan SE Sport.

    Has 30,000 miles on it.

    We're planning on getting the 8/80 extended warranty which covers engine and drive train. Wondering if we should spring an extra 1300 for the "bumper to bumper" coverage.

    Thoughts and suggestions?

    Thanks.
  • ginoc1ginoc1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Caravan with 29,000km on it. I had to replace the front rotors at 21,000km since they were warped. Though the warranty on the rotors had expired my dealer changed them for $75Cdn. My invoice mentioned that the rotors were being replaced as a "goodwill gesture" and not under warranty. I figure that the $75 covered the labor and that Chrysler picked up the tab on the parts. Thus if you have a low mileage van with warped rotors complain(nicely) to your dealer and you may get a break on the replacement cost.
  • rlafaverrlafaver Member Posts: 70
    My 2000 Caravan is a basic 4 cylinder model with 59K miles. I have yet to encounter problems, other than a power window switch replaced under warranty, but to be safe I bought an after market, bumper to bumper 100K warranty. I have read about a lot of problems here, and heard about a lot elsewhere, but like strokeoluck says, I bought cheap, expecting the worst and hoping for the best. So far it has been the best. Excellent vehicle.
  • monty2222monty2222 Member Posts: 48
    I have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan ES, 86K miles. Bought used last Fall. The headlights have always looked foggy inside, maybe moisture? I inquired about new headlight assembly at an auto parts store, its listed at $250. Not worth it of course, so just wondering if anyone else has this problem, and if they have been able to clean it out somehow. FYI, I love this van so far, gets lots of use, very smooth, roomy, and comfortable, tranny was replaced about 2K miles before I bought it (by dealer/with warranty), paid $7,000 for the van. Problems: AC noise sometimes (hisses), rain leaks in around drivers door and rear liftgate.
  • monty2222monty2222 Member Posts: 48
    I have a 96 DGC. I thought there was a thread about door locks before, but cannot find it. Is there some way you can cause all the doors to lock when you go out? My wife locked the keys in the car (engine running), says she did not push the door lock switch, but shortly after she exited and shut her door, she heard all the locks go down. What are the different ways this can happen? Luckily the baby was not in at that time. Also, the passanger slider does not unlock with the drivers unlock button, why? Thanks.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Re: doors locking. Boy I never heard of the doors locking automatically - I didn't even know it was possible to set it like that. About all ours do is lock once you're going >15mph. We've had the same sliding door problem as you...twice. Once it was replaced under warranty and about two weeks ago we had it repaired at an independent shop. Here's what it says on the bill: "R&R sliding door cover, replace frozen door lock motor". They charged me $70 in labor and $24.85 for the part. This was the same problem we had in the past, we couldn't manually lock it and we couldn't lock it with the driver/passenger button either. The shop corrected it.

    Re: the headllights, it sounds like maybe a stone chipped it? I had this happen on a few of my road-weary cars, ones I used to drive 40k+ miles/year. When a stone chips it good then water gets in and fogs it up. I don't believe there's a way to correct it, at least not that I know of. Have you tried contacting junkyards or go online and search for the part? I don't know what it takes to replace the headlight assembly but I "think" the '96 is still a bit easier than today's assemblies.

    To the guy who's van is leaking. Have you tried a good silicone caulk? Our '96 PGV was leaking around the windshield near the passenger seat. The Chrysler shop pointed out the problem and just told me to use some silicone caulk (not the cheap washable painter's type; the good sticky gooey stuff). I did, that was two years ago and we haven't had a leak since then.

    Good luck,
    Rob
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    The 96 remote unlock feature requires the following, one push unlocks drivers door only, 2 pushes unlocks all doors. Its printed on the back of the remote.it should work unless you have the faulty lock as described in a previous post.
  • monty2222monty2222 Member Posts: 48
    Take a look at post #1357 " Sliding Door Lock Design Problem!" by teekson Jul 08, 2002 . That is the post I remember. I will have to try what he says and see if mine does the same thing. Worth knowing for everyone if true.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    Well today is the end of the road for my 53,000 mile 1996 Voyager. Despite over $8,000 in out-of-pocket repairs (not including 3 head gaskets
    replaced by Chrysler) it is now dead with a kaput transmission.

    Well, even thought the mileage is low (and I gave it all the Mopar tranny flushes one could ask for) it is a seven-year old car (and in Dodge-years that is 21 years old).

    Buying a Dodge-Chrysler car is like marrying an alcoholic--don't do it no matter how much you're tempted. There's just no way it will turn out well.

    And so ends my brief attempt to give the American Auto Manufacturers another chance!
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    53,000 miles in 7 years works out to about 7600 miles per year, not a lot of yearly miles. Do you drive in city or highway traffic? I also would want more out of a vehicle, but, a vehicle that is driven in the city mostly will shift up and down more times that cruising down the freeway. I believe 53,000 miles of city driving can easily equal 100,000 miles of freeway driving. Again, I understand your frustration.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I had a '91 Caravan with the 2.5L and 3-speed automatic that I drove for only 59,000 miles in nearly 8 years--lots of in-town driving. Never had a signficant problem with it. But it was a very basic van, so not much to break, plus the 3-speed auto is known to be much more reliable than the 4-speed. But it does prove that it's possible to drive a DC van under these conditions and get reliable service from it. If I had had an experience like jlewelling1's, I would never have leased my current van, a '99 GCS. That van has had a couple of minor problems in four years and 41,000 miles, but has also been pretty solid. However, I will probably turn it in at the end of its lease next spring rather than tempt the transmission demons--it's under warranty to 50,000 miles.
  • spiritualquestspiritualquest Member Posts: 26
    I wrote quite awhile ago about trying to get the rear wiper away from the wiper motor, and someone told me that there was a pin holding it on. I cannot find the pin or the retainer. Can anyone give me a better clue on what to look for? Give me a picture, or something, please.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    If you run your finger along the top of the wiper arm from right to left, near the center rear of the wiper arm is a 3/8 inch tab (not a pin), with a screwdriver or your fingernail push this tab up it should move up parallel to the window about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Then wiggle the wiper arm until it comes off the shaft.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    If it were just the transmission (and if I hadn't done the Mopar flush every 12,000 miles or so) I wouldn't be so anti-Chrysler. It was also the 3 head gaskets, the 4 brake jobs (including replacing the calipers), the replaced computer, the overhaul of the electronics, replaced valve cover, other assorted gaskets, and of course, starter, alternator, etc.

    I realize some have had good experiences with Dogde-Chrysler vans (thats why I bought my 1996 4 cyl.), but I am embittered (and on foot) as a result of my experience.

    So now I have to buy another car--I have a 2001 Sienna and I need something that would fit 2 adults and 5 kids when necessary. Something dependable and something affordable--What should I buy?
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    "Affordable" is a very relative term...what does that mean for you? $200 monthly payment or $20,000 off-the-lot cost?

    Are you sure you don't want to consider another Dodge? What are the odds of lightning striking twice? And with their longer warranty you could still buy a slightly used one and be protected for 5-6 years at the rate you put miles on.

    If not a Dodge then what about Kia? You can get a FULLY LOADED van - and I'm talking leather, sunroof, etc. - for $20,000. They have a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty and so far I hear pretty good things about these vehicles. And of course virtually every other minivan, and many SUV's, should be able to accomodate your passengers. If you're considering a car I know the Taurus/Sable wagon can handle seven but it's not real safe or comfortable. But you can find them cheap!

    Good luck,
    Rob
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    Well, I like to buy a car every 5 years and keep it for 10. That way we always have one good car and one that is fine for a second car. I prefer to have one car payment at a time (but that is not going to be the case now).

    Our first car is the Sienna, which we bought 2 years ago. It is a very good car and I think I will be able to keep it and rely on it for another 8 years, based on the model's reliability. I bought a second minivan because , with 3 kids you need one good minivan--and the Voyager was already unreliable. In other words, I don't really want a second minivan.

    So I'm looking for a car that will seat two adults and three kids comfortably. I'd like a sedan or sedan-sized SUV. Reliability and safety are primary concerns.

    As I will be making two car payments at one, costs will be a big factor. Normally I agree that the off-the-lot costs is more important than low monthly payments. Unfortunately, I'm in a position where the low monthly payments are a bigger deal.

    I've been thinking about an Accord--maybe a used dealer-certified car. On the other hand, I might be able to swing lower payments on a new car (longer payment periods and low financing costs). I've thought about Hyundai's because of the 10-year, 100,000 mile warrenty. I've not given Kia much thought. Should I? Are they reliable?

    (I am sure I don't want to give Dodge another chance. I am so sick of this car and dealing with the company. I'm also not very impressed with Fords.)
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    Sorry. I said 5 kids in my first post. I only have three that I know of.

    Must be a guilty conscience causing me to mistype!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The used Accord would be a good bet, but you are smart to look into the buy-new option because of the incentives being offered now. Other cars to look at would be a '01-'02 Taurus (although new ones are under $15k now), an '02 Sonata, a '01-'02 Camry, or a '02 626. Depending on how big the kids are you could even look at a compact with a big back seat; the '01-'02 Civic would probably be your best bet with your emphasis on safety and reliability.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    Thanks for the advice.

    I will give the Civic a look--also the Corolla.

    It would be a very rare occasion where I would have all five of the family in this car. Mostly I will be tooling around the city and parking in underground garages. Probably a little car would make more sense.
  • mopar68mopar68 Member Posts: 1
    hi , a friend of mines got this 97 dodge caravan w/ 3.3liter,auto trans.,a/c,(milage??).. it overheats while sitting in traffic. I replaced temp.sensor near thermastat.. replaced radiator cap,can't find fan relays, fans do not come on even when a/c is on.tested them,they come on w/direct power..what is wrong w/ it can you help??also the comp. had been replaced once due to it malfunc. thing is van runs as if it isn't overheating..normal..& when driven on stretch of street or freeway w/ no traff. it around normal..?
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    These are located inside the fender liner of the left front wheel, and failure is common for that year.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I faintly recall that our '96 Caravan had a recall associated with the cooling fan relays. It may have applied to '97's as well. It was several years ago, so I don't remember the details, but I would guess you could check with a Dodge dealer and with the VIN they could see if all recalls have been performed on your van.
  • monty2222monty2222 Member Posts: 48
    Ok, the first trouble with my 96 GC, the motor on one of the radiator fans is very noisey when it runs. Dealers says it's a bad motor, must replace whole assembly (two fans/housing/etc.). Part is $320, labor is $180, so $500 bill. I found I can buy just the motor (new) from a parts place for $110, or a whole used assembly for $125. Anyone ever had this done. Maybe I should buy the part and have a garage mechanic put it in, or do it myself if easy access?
  • plymouthhaterplymouthhater Member Posts: 14
    "Well today is the end of the road for my 53,000 mile 1996 Voyager. Despite over $8,000 in out-of-pocket repairs (not including 3 head gaskets ..."

    I dumped my 96 Gr Voy SE with 96K kms on it
    this past April as the extended warranty was expiring this summer.
    ..it had to have been the most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned...fortunately I took out an extended warranty...and I made in excess of $6K Canadian in claims on that warranty...that was in addition to over 50 times in for service while under original manufacturer's 36 month warranty.
    Repairs included:
    new tranny, AC compressor twice, front wiper motor, rear wiper motor, fuel pump, water pump, ABS brake module, serpentine belt tensioner twice, emergency brake mechanism, heater blower motor, AC evaporator, AC condensor, front brake rotors rotted out in first 18 months, fuel guage sender, rear hatch power lock actuator, water pump..just to name some of the repairs.

    I now drive a 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan and
    I will never in this lifetime again ever purchase anything that has a Chrysler logo on it!
  • dunkmydonutdunkmydonut Member Posts: 35
    Hi Hater,
    I just wanted to give you a heads up on the Sienna. If thats a 3.0L V6 they have had much trouble in the past with the oil turning to sludge. I'm not sure if the problem still applies. For a while Toyota was doing the avoidance dance..blaming it all on the customer, of course.
    Last I heard They were working on a fix. Hope it doesn't affect you. There was alot of talk about it a year ago. It helps to do the oil changes often..3 to 4 thousand intervals. Good luck with the new van.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    My 1970 Dodge van was my worst vehicle and I have never owned another Chrysler vehicle. Two of my 3 sons now own DC minivans and love them. The other one has an Odyssey. Personally I would go with the Sienna if I were to get a minivan. Good luck with your Sienna.
        Based on reading in the Town Hall, it appears that DC has made great improvements in minivan reliability in the past few years (AFTER 1996). Will report any problems either son's DC minivan may develop.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    That is one of the many, many, many things I had go wrong with my 1996 Voyager. I noticed that when I turned off the car, the fuel tank needle would move back and forth, back and forth, back and forth. There were other strange things that happened to my gauges as well. I thought I had a poltergiest.

    When the dealer fixed it and I picked it up, it appeared that they had put some 25,000 miles on it while it was in the shop for five days. As it turned out, they had forgotton to flip a switch on the computer that changes the readout from kilometers to miles. After another four days, the dealer managed to get it fixed.

    I really don't know which has been worse--the dealer or the car.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    Thanks. I was aware of the oil sludge issue and have been getting 3K oil changes at the dealer. Thanks to Cblake's rantings, I think we're all okay on this matter. I'm also going to buy an extended warrenty just in case.

    That said, my Sienna has not had one problem and has not been in the shop (escept for standard servie) for 1 moment in the 2 years I've owned it.

    In contrast, when I'd had my 1996 Voyager for tthree years it had been in the shop for two head gaskets (1 week one time, 10 days the next), a failed computer (4 days), two "induction services (1 and 2 days), a new starter (1 day), a new valve cover (3 days), a new alternator (1 day), a new sterio system (1 day), a complete brake overhaul (2 days) and four seperate recalls (1 day each).

    That is more than a month of time that the car was out of serve and 26 trips to the dealer (not counting service).

    Now that the van is 7 years old and has hit 53,000 miles, the tranny drops out. If I am a "Dodge-hater", then I have a right to be based on my personal experience.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    It is fixable!

    I can get the kaput tranny (53K) miles rebuilt for about $1500. That means I'll be stuck driving this time bomb untill the next major repair. Based on recent history, that could be from two-weeks to three months!

    Will I never be free from this accursed monstrosity?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If you have a Sienna, why are you forcing yourself to keep and drive the Voyager? Fix it then sell it, and I would get a second or third opinion before sinking $1500 into it, it may be a simple problem. Do you trust 100% whoever gave you the $1500 quote? Hav you checked out getting a rebuilt one swapped into it? Might cost you less than $1500.

    Not too many people need to keep two minivans in the same family, right?

    In contrast we have a '96 Caravan with the 3.3 V-6, and have had no problems except AC went out and was repaired last year. Now at about 66K miles. Yes we took it back for about 3-4 minor recalls over the years, but no other problems. Have yet to even touch the transmission, not even changed the fluid or filter.

    Still even have the original brakes, but I am sure they will need replacement soon.
  • jlewelling1jlewelling1 Member Posts: 65
    My wife drives the Sienna.

    True, we don't need two minivans, but we had to have one. That's why we bought the Sienna in 2001. We had to have one reliable minivan and we could not rely on the Voyager. Still, we needed a second car and, when irt runs, the voyager has always been (and still is) a nice drive.

    The ironic thing is that when I bought the car in 1996 I specifically picked the 4-cyc because the V-6's had such trouble (according to Consumer Reports). Beginning in 1996, that changed with the V-6's doing well and the 4-cyc's having tons of trouble. (I know that many people are happy with their DC vans, but I got a lemon and lemons leave a sour taste in your mouth.)

    I really don't mind having a second van (a.k.a) truck) when it runs. I'm just frustrated that it has costs so much to keep it on the road.

    I am taking it to a second shop for another opinion. By phone, the mechanic said the $1500 was "worst-case" and included putting an auxilliary cooler on the tranny if the tranny cooler coil in the radiator is clogged (whatever that means). He said it may not be, but he has seen this problem frequently with failed Caravan/Voyagers). He also said the tranny may not need full replacement. We'll just have to see.

    (The first mechanic wanted $2000 plus to replace the tranny with a rebuilt unit.)
Sign In or Register to comment.