Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.
And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.
Pat
Sedans Host
There are several galant owners there acutally about 2000 of us!
Has anyone had any experience buying a vehicle at lease expiration. Are there any additional charges other than the straight residual as a purchase price. Is a down payment required? Information on the above
would be greatly appreciated.
The main thing to do is check around and see how much you can buy an identical used '99 Galant. If the buy-out on yours is cheaper then you're ok. If your buy-out is higher, you'd be better off to give it back and start-over with something else. There were a few years (97-99 mainly) that the leasing companies/manufacturers were putting high residuals on vehicles in order to get the payments down. Now those vehicles are being turned in and they are worth no where near the residuals. I can't comment on yours because it might be high if you have a base model, or low if you have a loaded V6. Just check out the numbers before you do anything. I know a guy with a '99 Camry and his residual was about $2000 higher than what the vehicle was really worth. He just gave it back and bought something else.
I have read that you can negotiate with the leasing company (Mitsubishi) to buy below residual as the company saves by disposing of the car immediately and makes no repairs or clean up which also costs money.
Anyone heard of this?
I really love the car and if I can own it for 10 grand or so I see no downside. I can always sell it a year or two down the road if something else strikes my fancy.
99 ES, the light bulb behind the temperature and the fuel gauge burnt out and I don't know how to take the cluster out so I can change the light bulb, Would any one know how or what would be the easiest way to change the fuel gauge/ temperature gauge light bulb.
thanks in advance.
anyone else has the same dilemma?
Due to a bad car accident years ago I'm very sensitive to how a car handles. I noticed the overall front end wander (drift, yaw, call it what you will) more or less the first time I drove the car on the highway. I believe it's a design issue. It's most noticeable in the winter, even though I have four very good snow tires. It's very subtle and not everyone would notice it or be bothered by it. But it bothers me considerably. Naturally, the dealer don't help.
He has talked to me about the galant gtz and how it demands premium fuel while the sonata runs on regular? Can the galant run on regular fuel too?
Please write back and inform me on your opinions. Thanks!
So I guess it would be a tradeoff between an off the line rocket sled and a nice performer at less cost (no premium fuel).
If you want a testimonial for this car let me just say that with 40000 miles on the clock I'm so happy with the car that I plan to buy it when it goes off lease in November. I think it looks and performs great. Very BMW like styling and fine performance. Have not had the car in for anything but an oil change for the last 18 months. It's been highly reliable.
I have no knowledge of the Sonata but if looks, sportiness and reliablity are important I think the Galant wins hads down.
My 2002 ES (4 cylinder) came with 195/65/15 Goodyear Eagle LS tires, which are advertised on Goodyear's website as their quietest tire. My experience matchest he advertising as I've found these tires to produce so little road noise that I bought a set (same size) for my wife's Saturn L200, and what an improvement they were on that car. The Saturn's Firestone Affinities had always bothered me, but more for lack of grip than noise. The Eagle LS was just a night and day transition for that car.
---------------------------------
www.TheGalantCenter.com
several reasons i chose the galant - test drive, previous experience with mitsubishi, car and driver review, not ur garden variety sedan, not most stolen, price, 0-0-0 financing and relatively good sales dept. experience.
got mine in late october of 2000 in illinois
and have since moved to california.
drove the car through the mountain roads in all of colorado and utah, and the highways of iowa, nebraska, and parts of arizona and nevada in below freezing temperatures with the worst of road conditions during the dead of winter in 2001.
logged on an additional 3100 miles to what was an 1800 mile car.
car was a blast to drive during that memorable trek from midwest to west coast.
V6 power was smooth and consistent even at the continental divide in monarch crest, colorado. (elevation 11,300 ft(?))
adequate pull even at steep grades.
never missed a beat in that 10 day road trip.
also had excellent picture opportunities with such a great looking car poised against the huge red rock formation(s) in utah.
upgraded to aftermarket stereo (pioneer) and all four speakers (kenwood).
tremendous step up from factory unit.
replaced the rims with aftermarket alloys.
not only looks cool but added athletic cornering and braking abilities when compared to OEM steel rims with wheel covers.
problems? -front brake rotor resurfacing
($120 at 24,700 miles) admittedly a disappointment on a newer car,
wiring harness recall , and a few cosmetic touches on what seemed to be a very minor paint defect on the hidden parts of the car (i.e. inside of trunk, near door hinges).
car is maintained religiously.
mitsu service isn't the best though.
has big room for improvement.
car has seen several weekend trips to san francisco and las vegas.
really comfortable highway cruiser.
average MPG - around 26.
has only used premium grade.
all in all, perfectly happy with the drive.
smooth and quiet as new.
has proven to be reliable and dependable.
darn good looking.
only reason to part with - upgrade to one of those "entry level luxury sport sedans".
I'm very excited like a little kid now, but once you do it and see how easy it is you will understand. You will smile too once you have $100 in your wallet!
http://www.cpfire.com/net/mitsu/dash02.jpg
I need to change the bulb behind my speedometer
can you email me or give me detailed directions to do this anything would be great
thks
joe
joathlete@yahoo.com
Planning to purchase a used 2001 es galant 4 cylinder. Was just wondering if there's any recalls or TSB's for it. Just want to know if there is any so I can ask the dealer if it's been fixed or not. I noticed a recall and tsb for v-6 models, but don't know if they apply to the 4 banger also. TIA.
Bought the car used with 10,000 miles on it. 41,000+ miles now on my 2000 Galant ES I4 from city and freeway driving.
No major problems so far except for the noise coming from the rear right wheel when braking to slow down/stop. Dealer found no problem and pads has still 50% life.
Performed all the required maintenance including the recalls.
Great commuter car with decent power for 4 cyl. and good handling.
or one of the similar sites.
if the GTZ is in good condition and you have already verified that it's not a lemon,
it's a steal.
in california, a similar car may go for
about $20,000.
enjoy your GTZ.
i have an '01 ES-V6 with around 28,000 miles
on it and still drives like new.
also, visit THE GALANT CENTER.
What made the decision for me wasn't any shortcoming in the six (it does slurp premium fuel, though), but rather just how much I liked the four. My only dissappointment has been fuel economy, which with my admittedly lead foot, averages around 21mpg in the city.
I also get around 21-22 mpg in the city and use mid-range gas (89 octane). It has a modest efect on performance (not as much of a hot rod) but no real negatives otherwise.
I have driven the 4 and found the performance to be fine and the engine seemed quiter than my V6. As for resale, my lease is up in a couple of months and I plan on buying the car off lease. I've been very pleased with the performance, looks and reliability. I've done a little price checking on line and I believe the V6 does hold its value better. That won't help me I guess trying to negotiate a cheaper buy with Mitsubishi Leasing. Still I've read that leasing companys have been taking a bath on off lease cars so I'm hoping to get a buy below the residual ($10,500).
As for choosing between a 4 and a V6 I think they are both excellent choices from performance and economy perspectives. So whichever floats your boat.
i drive a V-6 and a close friend of mine drives the 4 which i also get to drive quite often.
i love the power and smoothness of the 6.
the 4 has plenty of get-go acceleration but seems to lose some steam at higher speeds.
both engines are quiet and have proven to be reliable and dependable.
the 4 gets better fuel economy and does not require premium fuel.
hope this helps.
as far as passing power and merging on the highways, both do a fine job.
the 6 just seems smoother.
My 99 LS V6 with 65K miles still runs pretty much like new. With a K&N air filter, I average about 24-25mpg in mixed city/highway driving. Closer to 22 in pure city & closer to 27-28 for pure highway. I have gotten over 30mpg, but rarely. I always use premium fuel.
Mileage drops by about 2 to 3 mpg during our lovely Chicagoland winters.
Running the AC doesn't seem to drag the engine very much or significantly impact the mileage that I've been getting.
Overall I'm very pleased with the car and have few gripes, most of which are minor.
(P.S. I fixed the headlight myself by adjusting a defective reflecting lamp cap which screwed up the beams. Needless to say, the dealer lost a customer for charging for a fake job).
I'd have to wonder why the reflecting lamp was wrong to begin with if it was a factory new part. It probably was not the reflector that was wrong, but how the front-end of the car was "fixed". If a headlight gets hit hard enough to break, it's quite possible the mounts aren't in the factory spec positions which would make it appear the headlight was aimed wrong.