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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ramarquardt2ramarquardt2 Member Posts: 15
    Jerseyjohn1: I got 2 quotes for my strut towers.

    For $624.71, they will place a metal cap on top of both existing strut towers from inside the engine compartment. They do not do anything to the existing rusting tower, they just place another metal cap on top of the rusting ones and weld/rivet it in place. No front-end alignment is needed. Have your dealer reference warranty part#05086513AA. So for $625, BOTH strut towers are fixed.

    For $982.32, they will REPLACE BOTH strut towers with new ones. This is more complex since they break the welds from inside the engine compartment of the existing strut towers and install new ones. A front-end align is required but is included in the price.

    If your dealer still doesn't get it, have him call Russ Darrow Chrysler located in Waukesha, Wisc. and talk to the body shop.

    For the rest of you, I have a copy of the tech service bulletin from Chrysler dated Oct.'02. It explicitly states that ALL '96 to '99 Chrysler vans (Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler) have the problem with the strut towers. ALL of them will eventually rust out from the bottom up. If yours does not show rust now, beware! it will come! As I stated in an earlier post, the strut towers are defective in their design. The dealer I went to stated that he had repaired over 50! '96 vans with the rust issue. I also downloaded the 160meg database file from the NHTSA and found lots of folks who have entered complaints on this issue from '96 to '99.

    As for myself, I traded the van in this past Saturday and purchased a 2003 Honda CRV-EX. I wish the best to all of you that have a Chrysler van. For me, my van was the most unreliable vehicle I had ever owned. Front axle, A/C evap, A/C cond, starter, battery (3yrs), belt tensioner, water pump, O2 sensor, etc.. I can only say that this pushed me to buy a Japanese car. Its a sad day in America once I get converted.
  • kcarter3kcarter3 Member Posts: 16
    Does anyone know how to eject a CD that is stuck in the player in slot #1, its just blinking and it cant eject?
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I guess I'm still confused by this issue. My '96 Plymouth Grand Voyager has rusting strut towers as well. I only plan on holding on to this vehicle for another 12 months so I'm confident (as is my mechanic) that I won't have any problems w/it. However if NHTSA *AND* Chrysler are aware of the problem...why isn't Chrysler paying to fix this?

    I'm sure the obvious answer is that a) it would cost big bucks and b) it it's not killing people maybe they're not liable. But wouldn't there be a push for something like this? I'm just a little shocked that it's a known defect and yet we're expected to pay for it.

    - Rob
  • peruvienperuvien Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 T & C. In Oct. Of last year drivers side mirror started vibrating to the point that everything you see is distorted. You will see one car in the mirror, then two or three. They just put in the forth mirror and still doing the same thing. I tried to tell them if I hold the mirror housing while driving it stops. This dealership is worthless in my book. Anybody having this problem or have any suggestions. Thaks Peruvien
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I called my local dealer and told them I had rusting strut towers. They said they'd seen this problem once in the last few years. Said there was absolutely/positively no recall on this problem.

    Can anyone provide any specific details on a recall? And if it was a recall wouldn't they pay for it?

    - R
  • toronado455toronado455 Member Posts: 83
    My 2002 GC power steering always makes the "low power steering fluid" noise after its been sitting for about 8 hours. This noise started after it was at the dealership for the power steering recall. The dealer has not been able to get rid of this noise. Anyone else had this experience?
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    We have the same problem.It seems to go away once the van warms up. That is why they can't fix it.
  • spiritualquestspiritualquest Member Posts: 26
    My wife and I have a 92 Voyager, and the driver's side door popped the weld points. Her backing up and catching the garage did not help! hehe. Anyways, we wanted to replace it with another used one. The used one was ok, but when they put it on, they found out that the secondary latch that holds the door tight does not work. Before we make the mechanic take this one back and get another, I was wondering if it was repairable. Any thoughts on how I might do this?

    Blessings, Ed
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I can't remember the latch setup that I had in my old '89 Voyager. I suppose you've tried to adjust the latch or strike forward/back and side to side?

    Steve, Host
  • spiritualquestspiritualquest Member Posts: 26
    Actually, no. I could try that and will. The mechanic said that it was not repairable, but i would not put too much stock in that. Not sure how much they know about fixing such things.

    Blessings,
    Ed
  • danieldkkdanieldkk Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2001 GC EX 3.8 V6. It also makes noise when the motor is cold. I thought it was a loose belt noise and took it to the dealer. The 1st time, they adjusted the belt. The noise came back after about one week. The next time, they replaced the belt and the noise came back after one week. But when the car warms up, noise goes away. Is this a power steering noise or something else? Is there a solution to this?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Sounds like an accessory bearing going bad. Idler pulley, alternator, steering pump, etc. Intermittent whaaaaaaa-whaaaaaaa until the engine warms up, right? They're hard to isolate when they first start going bad, so you may have to wait until it gets worse to identify it. Keep an ear on it.
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    Two months ago we had the clock spring replaced in our 2002 Caravan. Well, the air bag indicator light is on again. Has anyone has a problem like this with a newer van? I know it was a problem mid 90's.
  • toronado455toronado455 Member Posts: 83
    The dealer said there is air trapped in the system after the recalled hoses were replaced and the noise would go away. But it didn't so they re-bled and refilled the system. Then there was no noise for a few days but the noise gradually came back and it's getting worse not better. It only makes the noise when the engine is cold. The theory that the trapped air escapes over time seems to be wrong. I would venture to say that air is actually leaking INTO the system. Why else would it get worse rather than better over time?
  • lulu16lulu16 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my van in 96 and have been quite happy
    until now - have a problem and am looking for an
    answer. Approx 4-5 times in last year the van
    has lost power while driving on highway - I feel
    the power loss in gas pedal and then engine will
    fail - sputter and die - If I can get it started right away it will backfire and die again. sometimes it will idle ok but when try to take off it dies or not much power. I usually have to wait 20-30 minutes before it will start and run well enough to drive. The first time it happened I managed to get it home but sometimes could not go faster that 40 mph. The next day it
    runs fine. I have had it to 2 places both can see that the misfires have happen but are also stumped as to reason. Oil pressure ok - not overheating - no other visable problems -
    I would appreciate any help.....thanks
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Has anyone read the computer fault codes? AutoZone parts stores do it for free!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    There are general rules that apply to Chrysler-built automatic transmissions:

    *DO NOT use Dexron, Mercon, ATF+ "booster" additives for Dexron/Mercon, or any "universal" type of ATF under any circumstances, regardless of the year.

    * Whether FWD or RWD (truck), any transmission originally equiped with ATF+4 must continue to use ATF+4 (Chrysler 9602), pn 05013457AA. Only ATF+4 should be used to add or flush in these transmisions.

    *ATF+4 can be used to top-off vehicles originally equiped with ATF+3. ATF+3 should NEVER be used to top-off vehicles originally equiped with ATF+4.

    EXCEPTION - Jeep AW & AX transmissions (4.0 6-cyl engine), and 1999 and older mini-vans with 3-speed or 4-speed automatics, should continue to use ATF+3.

    REFERENCE: Chrysler service bulletin #21-006-01

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • lulu16lulu16 Member Posts: 2
    yes I have had codes read 3 times at 2 different
    places - they say there has been misfires but they
    can't seem to find out anything else. thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You don't say what engine you have, but mostly because of the year you might want to consider the crankshaft position sensor as a suspect. The problem you describe is symptomatic of an intermittent sensor.

    Faulty spark plug wires have been known to cause strange problems, especially with erratic shifting. Your's may have coil-on-plug and not have wires, in which case worn spark plugs have been a source of strange performance related issues.

    In your case, because the engine stops completely, a good look at fuel system components might be in order, too. If you've never changed the fuel filter, now would be the time. Intermittent fuel pump failures match your symptoms as well.

    If you are getting a repeating #3 misfire, this would be the first area I'd look. Spark plug, spark plug wire or coil, distributor cap, rotor. I don't know if this could cause the engine to completely stop, but I have seen ignition components cause bucking and stalling, weird shifting irregularities, and throwing up random codes.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • ozzzzy1ozzzzy1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 grand voyager that I just purchased. When I fill the tank it indicates full, but after about 75 miles the gauge drops to empty. Do I need to drop the tank and replace the sending unit or is there some other/easier fix? Also I have noticed that when I am taking off from a stop, there is a slight shimmy in the front end until you get to about 20mph. Any ideas?

    Thank you,

    bob
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Bob, first the shudder. This could be coming from the torque converter. You didn't say how many miles were on your Grand Voyager, but because of the year I would guess it's over 60,000 miles.

    In any case, especially since you are not the original owner, I would have the transmission filter replaced and have a complete transmission fluid change. Torque converter shudder is indicative of oxidized or contaminated transmission fluid. Not changing the fluid can lead to more serious transmission problems. Also, make sure that who ever does the work uses the correct fluid, which I believe for you year is ATF+3, or Chrysler 7176.

    Your fuel gauge problem could be bad or corroded connections to the fuel sending unit in the tank. I would check the wiring first. If the connections are good, the sending unit in the tank is probably bad.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • ozzzzy1ozzzzy1 Member Posts: 2
    Dusty,
      thanks for the info. By the way it has 135000 mi on it. As a follow up, do I need to have the tranny fluid pumped out or will a filter change and drain and fill myself suffice?

       On a side note, I see from your profile that you have alot of GM experience. Maybe you could tell me how to get more power out of my Tonawanda 454 in my RV. :-)
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I would most certainly recommend a complete flush of the system, ie: pump the old fluid out, and a replenish with new ATF.

    With respect to the 454 Chevrolet block in your RV. It depends on the year. On older versions there isn't a lot you can do with cylinder head profile. Raising compression as a way to increase power might be problematic, if at all possible. I think what you want is to increase torque.

    I don't know if money will be an object for you. Fairly easy things would be to install a more torque-friendly cam and maybe even a more effective intake manifold. Opening the exhaust flow can sometimes hurt torque, but this might also be something to explore.

    By the way, ever have a cracked exhaust manifold on that beast?

    More up-to-date profile heads and a corresponding intake manifold might be a good way to realize power increase, but now you are talking some bucks.

    Just some thoughts.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    From the 2003 Consumer Reports Annual Auto Issue, overall reliability:

    Chrysler Town & Country = average

    Chevrolet Venture = worse than average

    Dodge Caravan = average

    Ford Windstar = much worse than average

    Honda Odyssey = average

    Mazda MPV = better than average

    Nissan Quest = average

    Pontiac Montana = worse than average

    Oldsmobile Silhouette = worse than average

    Toyota Sienna = Better than average
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    We had the van in to the dealership on Fri. They tell us the air bag light is on due to something in the seat belt malfunctioning. They have ordered the part and we go back in two weeks. The clunk from under the front end turned out to be a bad stabilizer bar and some other part. The work was done under warrenty but we can't help wondering why with only 48,000 km( approx 27,000 mile)did it go bad? This is a 2002 after all!We asked about the shudder on deceleration and they said it was *normal* for a Caravan.
    We finally figured out why the van steered so poorly when we bought it in May, the stabilizer bar was bad. Why were they not able to figure it out then?
    It handles much better now, we still like the van. The dealership is working things out and we are pleased. Anyone had to have this work done?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Dusty, where are you looking in the 2003 Annual Auto Issue? In my copy, the T&C is rated worse than average, the Caravan and Grand Caravan worse than average, the Odyssey better than average, the MPV and Sienna much better than average, and the Quest isn't rated because it's a new model (although the Sienna is new also...). Additionally the Sedona is rated average.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My apologies. I was looking at the 2002 issue!

    Dusty
  • ro22tolro22tol Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2000 GC that had the steering wheel click or chirp noise. I suffered with it for about a year when new, then a TSB came out for it. Took it into the dealer and they did the tsb. Install a steering wheel shim kit. I had heard on edmunds.com that this was just insulating tape used in back of the clock spring. This worked for a while but the clicking came back and now out of warranty. I was going to replace the leather steering wheel (the sun had done a number on it) so I thought that I would take a look at what might be causing the clicking.

    I used the directions found on allpar.com to replace the cocksping. Took the old clock spring off and found that the insulating tape on the back had compressed and no longer was doing its job. I added some small strips of 1/8 inch foam tape on the back of the clockspring. NO MORE TICKING (so far anway)!!

    Thanks allpar for the instruction on how to remove the clockspring without setting the airbag off!
  • rancinrancin Member Posts: 4
    Our 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan went through it's second transmission pump in 2 1/2 years and 57,000 miles. The first one went while it was under warranty but the second one wasn't. The pump was warranted for one year and it had been several months past that. The replacement estimate was between $1500 and $2000, depending on what they found when they tore into it. We talked to the service manager of the dealership and complained that when we bought the van, we were told the transmission nightmares were no more. He said he would talk with Dodge and get back to us. They decided that if we paid $100 they would cover the rest and we have a new transmission since they found some abnormal wear when tearing into it.
    We are very pleased with the outcome but wonder if this will be a continuing problem in the future with the transmission. We'll have to wait and see for a couple more years since the trade-in value is less than half of what we paid for it.
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    What were the symptoms? How did the van behave? Ours (2002) shudders if you let off the gas and while slowing down to stop. They said this is *normal* for a Caravan. I'd like to hear how you found your van to act.
  • ro22tolro22tol Member Posts: 24
    It is normal to hear the typical CR tranny noise as you come to a stop. They all do it, but you should not feel this at all. If you can feel something as you come to a stop it is more than likely the transmissions speed sensor. As it kets worse the car will not want to come out of gear as you come to a stop.
  • rancinrancin Member Posts: 4
    It is a constant whining sound when the transmission is in gear. Only when in neutral does
    it stop. It is not obvious at normal speed but when going slow, you can really hear it. If the
    pump does fail, then the transmission is a goner.
  • ssg1ssg1 Member Posts: 2
    I hope I can explain this so you can understand what really is going on. But twice now, we have been driving down the highway and the T&C just quit. I had the cruise on, everything going just great when all the sudden all power to the engine just quit. I first thought the cruise just went off, but no. Engine was still running but I was not getting any RPM's or engine revving when I pressed on the gas - as though it was starving for gas. After about 45 minutes of turning the engine off and on to try to get it moving - it started to work as if nothing ever happened. We got 20 - 30 miles down the road and it did it again. Totally stalled, engine will start but rattling and vibrating, popping sounds as if something was vapor locked, I thought the darn thing was back firing. Got it to an Auto Zone, they put the device to it and it only showed it had "miss fired". The darn thing started working perfectly normal again, but 60 miles down the road -- guess what! This time it took us about 4 hours to go 60 miles. Has anyone ever heard of this or experienced it themselves? I have ideas but want to hear your thoughts before I take it in to get checked out. One person says to change all the fuel filters and fuel pump. Another says it's more likely a bad sensor that's getting hot, then after cooling down things start to work somewhat properly. It did this only once several months back (another long road trip - it started working great after about 45 minutes), and hadn't done it since till this road trip. All the time in between it's been driven around town. Would love some experienced feedback to take to the shop with me. Thanks!!
    PS. It has a new transmission in it replaced last year.
    Year is a 1996 and has 98500 miles on it.
    Thanks again - SSG

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    Has anyone experienced a problem with the van not moving when you are in reverse? I put the van into reverse , the motor raced up but it would not move! Another thing, all the letters ( PRD3L)
    had a circle around it like it does when you put it into gear. Only the reverse should have had the circle. This has happened to me twice.
    I just play with changing back to park and the reverse and the other gears and it finally works.
    This is a 2002 Caravan SE. If anyone knows what this is, please help ! Thanks
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Shawn (ssq1), you may need a dealer's help because the possibilities include some obscure engine functions. Check out www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html and you will see what I mean. My unexpert thought would be an intermittent coil failure related to heat. Roy
  • ssg1ssg1 Member Posts: 2
    WOW, Lulu....... I was just reading through the notes to see if anyone had an answer for my van and noticed your note. The exact same problem is now occurring with our '96 Town and Country. Did you ever get the problem resolved?? PLEASE let me know. Thanks Dusty and Roy for your feedback.
    Shawn (ssg1)
  • vvgvvg Member Posts: 10
    We have a 1999 Caravan with 70K miles. About two weeks ago, my wife noticed that sometimes the key would not turn in the ignition.

    We called the dealer, who suggested we pull the wheel left or right until it hits the lock stop, and also insure that the shift lever was all the way in park.

    This morning she tried for 10 minutes to get the key to turn in the ignition with no luck. This included twisting the steering wheel and lifting up on the shift lever. A tow truck driver also tried.

    Anyone ever hear of a problem like this?
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    i have solved the problem myself by relieving pressure on the steering wheel.it takes a lot of effort.i don't know if you tried another key?i also had a bad lock cylinder and a broken gear inside the steering columm.in rare cases,an ignition switch can jam.
  • alsstewartalsstewart Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager with a 3.3.

    When I go to turn on my fan for A/C or heat it will not go on. I can put the switch on any setting and it still will not turn the fan on.

    I've replaced the resistor and switch and checked all the fuses. I was told by the dealer this year did not have a relay. The switch is not getting any power at the plug-end, if I'm doing it right.

    Right now I'm using the cigarette lighter to run the fan. One more thing I have 122,000 ml and I'm on my fourth transmission!!!
  • beth33beth33 Member Posts: 4
    I have a '96 T&C, it had 45,000 miles when the symptoms were first noticed; long trips, engine under full or close to full load, climbing hills, going fast, etc...Replaced plugs, wires, leads everything easy and obvious. Finally replaced the fuel pump and it stopped 100%. We do the same trip about once every two weeks over and it used to do it every single time. It stopped the day we replaced the fuel pump. Approx $500 CDN
  • igor8403igor8403 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced my power steering pump recently when it went out at like 70,000 miles, and now it's 2 weeks later and it's starting to go out again. Is there some kind or recall or any possible way to fix it so it won't fail again like that?
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Well, this is a sure sign that our beloved minivans are desired by *someone* other than ourselves...it appears our '96 Plymouth Grand Voyager was stolen last night! My wife came out of the mall to discover that our van was gone (& yes, she and the security guards drove around for an hour looking for it...I asked the same question). Who in their right mind wants a 7 year old van with 115,000 miles on it!?!? The police told me a '98 was stolen two hours after ours about five miles away. Not sure how insurance will handle this but we're off shopping for a new van this weekend. It will very likely either be a new Dodge G.C. or a 1-2 year old one.

    - R
  • larryintnlarryintn Member Posts: 103
    We bought a 2002 DGC last last summer for $16,589. It had 16k miles. These things depreciate so fast that you can save quite a bit by going with a 1 to 2 year old van instead of new.

    We bought through carmax, as we have a local outlet, and their system let me search for vans in the entire region. I was able to find the exact combination of options and mileage that I wanted and had the van transferred (via truck) to the local lot. The price ended up being about $200 less than Edmund's dealer TMV so couldn't complain there.

    Would have saved a few hundred more if I could have found one from a private seller but that's a lot harder to find and I wouldn't have had the vast number of vans from which to choose. I monitored the carmax web site daily for a week or two and there were always at least 12 or 15 vans in our region matching my criteria. I rated them by miles and price and had the salesman get detailed reports on the top few vans until I found the right one.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    This is spooky, I had exactly this problem with my '99 GCS, 46k miles, last Friday! Unfortunately, the van was parked at the entrance to a hospital emergency room, where I had just taken my wife (good timing). Anyway, I tried two different keys and no go. I called the 800 number for warranty service (have the DC extended warranty) and they told me to pull the wheel hard left, which I did but it was locked so it wouldn't move. The tow truck came and the driver was able to budge the wheel enough to make the key turn. I drove it to my local Dodge dealer, who replaced the lock cylinder under (extended) warranty--cost me the $50 deductible. Later my wife told me she had been having trouble turing the key for several days.
  • pupadupupadu Member Posts: 2
    Hello. I'm new to this forum. So any help will be greatly appreciated. First, let me state that I know absolutely nothing about cars. I'm just trying to get a fix on what the problem is with my '96 Plymouth Grand Voyager (112,200 miles). I do know that it has a 3.3 engine. The problem that I am having is everytime I turn on my car and begin to drive it, it revs high and then jerks. It does this sequence three times. Then after this sequence of jerking and I try to go 40 mph, I can hear the engine as if it's trying to get power and the RPM needle is past the number three (3). If I want to go 35 mph, the RPM needle is between the two (2) and the three (3). The jerking sequence tends to happen after I turn the car off, turn it back on, and then begin to drive. Some are telling me it's my transmission not being able to get out of second (2nd) gear. Some are telling me it might be a clogged fuel filter. I'm leaning more towards the first because there seems to be a pattern to when this happens. I'm trying to narrow it down before I go to an auto shop/dealer so I can get a idea of the cost for repair.

    Anyone have any clue as to what the problem/cost would be? Thanks for any and all help.
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    I assume that it is a 4-speed automatic (41TE). The issues may range from low fluid level (very cheap to fix, ATF+3 fluid about $3 per quart), bad speed sensors (cheap fix about $100-150) to a dying transmission (expensive - about $1500-2000). What is the service history and type of usage on the van?
  • pupadupupadu Member Posts: 2
    Well, I bought the van used on 12/01. Aside from the basic maintenance (oil change, tune-up, etc.), a new relay switch, and the recent purchase of a new starter, nothing major. I use the van to go to and from work (approx. 20 min drive) and travel once a year (vacation), but that's it. I've had ATF added last week. Can the problem be diagnosed through computer diagnostics?

    Thanks for the possible fixes. :)
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Pupadu did you have the transmission problem before or after you added ATF? If not, it might have been the wrong type ATF which would cause this problem. Check your owners manual for the correct ATF to use on your 96 Voyager.
  • candlemaker2candlemaker2 Member Posts: 67
    Can you please explain what limp mode is? That is the term the mechanic used for my van when they did some work on the transmission.Thanks
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