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For $624.71, they will place a metal cap on top of both existing strut towers from inside the engine compartment. They do not do anything to the existing rusting tower, they just place another metal cap on top of the rusting ones and weld/rivet it in place. No front-end alignment is needed. Have your dealer reference warranty part#05086513AA. So for $625, BOTH strut towers are fixed.
For $982.32, they will REPLACE BOTH strut towers with new ones. This is more complex since they break the welds from inside the engine compartment of the existing strut towers and install new ones. A front-end align is required but is included in the price.
If your dealer still doesn't get it, have him call Russ Darrow Chrysler located in Waukesha, Wisc. and talk to the body shop.
For the rest of you, I have a copy of the tech service bulletin from Chrysler dated Oct.'02. It explicitly states that ALL '96 to '99 Chrysler vans (Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler) have the problem with the strut towers. ALL of them will eventually rust out from the bottom up. If yours does not show rust now, beware! it will come! As I stated in an earlier post, the strut towers are defective in their design. The dealer I went to stated that he had repaired over 50! '96 vans with the rust issue. I also downloaded the 160meg database file from the NHTSA and found lots of folks who have entered complaints on this issue from '96 to '99.
As for myself, I traded the van in this past Saturday and purchased a 2003 Honda CRV-EX. I wish the best to all of you that have a Chrysler van. For me, my van was the most unreliable vehicle I had ever owned. Front axle, A/C evap, A/C cond, starter, battery (3yrs), belt tensioner, water pump, O2 sensor, etc.. I can only say that this pushed me to buy a Japanese car. Its a sad day in America once I get converted.
I'm sure the obvious answer is that a) it would cost big bucks and b) it it's not killing people maybe they're not liable. But wouldn't there be a push for something like this? I'm just a little shocked that it's a known defect and yet we're expected to pay for it.
- Rob
Can anyone provide any specific details on a recall? And if it was a recall wouldn't they pay for it?
- R
Blessings, Ed
Steve, Host
Blessings,
Ed
until now - have a problem and am looking for an
answer. Approx 4-5 times in last year the van
has lost power while driving on highway - I feel
the power loss in gas pedal and then engine will
fail - sputter and die - If I can get it started right away it will backfire and die again. sometimes it will idle ok but when try to take off it dies or not much power. I usually have to wait 20-30 minutes before it will start and run well enough to drive. The first time it happened I managed to get it home but sometimes could not go faster that 40 mph. The next day it
runs fine. I have had it to 2 places both can see that the misfires have happen but are also stumped as to reason. Oil pressure ok - not overheating - no other visable problems -
I would appreciate any help.....thanks
*DO NOT use Dexron, Mercon, ATF+ "booster" additives for Dexron/Mercon, or any "universal" type of ATF under any circumstances, regardless of the year.
* Whether FWD or RWD (truck), any transmission originally equiped with ATF+4 must continue to use ATF+4 (Chrysler 9602), pn 05013457AA. Only ATF+4 should be used to add or flush in these transmisions.
*ATF+4 can be used to top-off vehicles originally equiped with ATF+3. ATF+3 should NEVER be used to top-off vehicles originally equiped with ATF+4.
EXCEPTION - Jeep AW & AX transmissions (4.0 6-cyl engine), and 1999 and older mini-vans with 3-speed or 4-speed automatics, should continue to use ATF+3.
REFERENCE: Chrysler service bulletin #21-006-01
Regards,
Dusty
places - they say there has been misfires but they
can't seem to find out anything else. thanks
Faulty spark plug wires have been known to cause strange problems, especially with erratic shifting. Your's may have coil-on-plug and not have wires, in which case worn spark plugs have been a source of strange performance related issues.
In your case, because the engine stops completely, a good look at fuel system components might be in order, too. If you've never changed the fuel filter, now would be the time. Intermittent fuel pump failures match your symptoms as well.
If you are getting a repeating #3 misfire, this would be the first area I'd look. Spark plug, spark plug wire or coil, distributor cap, rotor. I don't know if this could cause the engine to completely stop, but I have seen ignition components cause bucking and stalling, weird shifting irregularities, and throwing up random codes.
Good luck,
Dusty
Thank you,
bob
In any case, especially since you are not the original owner, I would have the transmission filter replaced and have a complete transmission fluid change. Torque converter shudder is indicative of oxidized or contaminated transmission fluid. Not changing the fluid can lead to more serious transmission problems. Also, make sure that who ever does the work uses the correct fluid, which I believe for you year is ATF+3, or Chrysler 7176.
Your fuel gauge problem could be bad or corroded connections to the fuel sending unit in the tank. I would check the wiring first. If the connections are good, the sending unit in the tank is probably bad.
Good luck,
Dusty
thanks for the info. By the way it has 135000 mi on it. As a follow up, do I need to have the tranny fluid pumped out or will a filter change and drain and fill myself suffice?
On a side note, I see from your profile that you have alot of GM experience. Maybe you could tell me how to get more power out of my Tonawanda 454 in my RV. :-)
With respect to the 454 Chevrolet block in your RV. It depends on the year. On older versions there isn't a lot you can do with cylinder head profile. Raising compression as a way to increase power might be problematic, if at all possible. I think what you want is to increase torque.
I don't know if money will be an object for you. Fairly easy things would be to install a more torque-friendly cam and maybe even a more effective intake manifold. Opening the exhaust flow can sometimes hurt torque, but this might also be something to explore.
By the way, ever have a cracked exhaust manifold on that beast?
More up-to-date profile heads and a corresponding intake manifold might be a good way to realize power increase, but now you are talking some bucks.
Just some thoughts.
Good luck,
Dusty
Chrysler Town & Country = average
Chevrolet Venture = worse than average
Dodge Caravan = average
Ford Windstar = much worse than average
Honda Odyssey = average
Mazda MPV = better than average
Nissan Quest = average
Pontiac Montana = worse than average
Oldsmobile Silhouette = worse than average
Toyota Sienna = Better than average
We finally figured out why the van steered so poorly when we bought it in May, the stabilizer bar was bad. Why were they not able to figure it out then?
It handles much better now, we still like the van. The dealership is working things out and we are pleased. Anyone had to have this work done?
Dusty
I used the directions found on allpar.com to replace the cocksping. Took the old clock spring off and found that the insulating tape on the back had compressed and no longer was doing its job. I added some small strips of 1/8 inch foam tape on the back of the clockspring. NO MORE TICKING (so far anway)!!
Thanks allpar for the instruction on how to remove the clockspring without setting the airbag off!
We are very pleased with the outcome but wonder if this will be a continuing problem in the future with the transmission. We'll have to wait and see for a couple more years since the trade-in value is less than half of what we paid for it.
it stop. It is not obvious at normal speed but when going slow, you can really hear it. If the
pump does fail, then the transmission is a goner.
PS. It has a new transmission in it replaced last year.
Year is a 1996 and has 98500 miles on it.
Thanks again - SSG
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had a circle around it like it does when you put it into gear. Only the reverse should have had the circle. This has happened to me twice.
I just play with changing back to park and the reverse and the other gears and it finally works.
This is a 2002 Caravan SE. If anyone knows what this is, please help ! Thanks
Shawn (ssg1)
We called the dealer, who suggested we pull the wheel left or right until it hits the lock stop, and also insure that the shift lever was all the way in park.
This morning she tried for 10 minutes to get the key to turn in the ignition with no luck. This included twisting the steering wheel and lifting up on the shift lever. A tow truck driver also tried.
Anyone ever hear of a problem like this?
When I go to turn on my fan for A/C or heat it will not go on. I can put the switch on any setting and it still will not turn the fan on.
I've replaced the resistor and switch and checked all the fuses. I was told by the dealer this year did not have a relay. The switch is not getting any power at the plug-end, if I'm doing it right.
Right now I'm using the cigarette lighter to run the fan. One more thing I have 122,000 ml and I'm on my fourth transmission!!!
- R
We bought through carmax, as we have a local outlet, and their system let me search for vans in the entire region. I was able to find the exact combination of options and mileage that I wanted and had the van transferred (via truck) to the local lot. The price ended up being about $200 less than Edmund's dealer TMV so couldn't complain there.
Would have saved a few hundred more if I could have found one from a private seller but that's a lot harder to find and I wouldn't have had the vast number of vans from which to choose. I monitored the carmax web site daily for a week or two and there were always at least 12 or 15 vans in our region matching my criteria. I rated them by miles and price and had the salesman get detailed reports on the top few vans until I found the right one.
Anyone have any clue as to what the problem/cost would be? Thanks for any and all help.
Thanks for the possible fixes.