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Mitsubishi Galant

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Comments

  • furqanbuttfurqanbutt Member Posts: 2
    no. i have no belts.
    you can find it from any used car dealer.
  • dblnomaddblnomad Member Posts: 3
    Well went to the dealer. they put new plugs , wires, and some ignition part (forget the name right now) and $350 later it still pings uncontrollably. (using premium, octane boost) It doesn't run rough any longer but pings loudly. they tell me the compression in 1 and 2 is 180lbs or so and 3 and 4 is 80-90lbs and that's the trouble. they wanted to do a valve job for an additional $1500. NO WAY I don't see how low compression in a couple cylinders can cause this problem. So far I have $500 into and it still has issues. DAAMMM!!!
  • raoabhijitinraoabhijitin Member Posts: 1
    hi
    I have a 2001 Mitsubishi gallant es 4 cylinder model. Lately I have noticed an issue with my cooling system. Not sure if this is an issue but here goes the detail
    I start my car. the temp control is below cold as I am driving my car my the temp control rises up and hits the halfway mark .the cooling fan starts off. The cooling process is started after 2-3 min the temp control goes a little above the half way mark more like 52-53% it stays there for a minute or two and then drops to 50% and then 48% and then stays there for the whole time. This happens every time I start the car and there is sufficient interval for the car to cool a little between subsequent starts.
    I noticed my reserve coolant white box was empty so i put in prestone 50-50 ready to use any color mix in the reserve and drove it for some time and then noticed that the radiator had sucked some coolant an the level had gone 10% down n the coolant reserve box. The above thing still happens though even after topping the coolant
    Firstly is this an issue? Or normal behavior and if it is an issue what could it be
    Any help will be greatly appreciated
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I'm no mechanic, but the behavior doesn't sound that bad to me. It heats up a little so the cooling fan kicks in and it cools off. That said, your thermostat might be flaking out a little. I'd also advise to keep an eye on the coolant level in the reserve tank. It shouldn't have emptied on its own. If you park int he same space every night, check for drip spots to indicate a leak. It could also leak inside the engine, which might not be detectable.

    An outside possibility would be the water pump not kicking in right when it should. They commonly last maybe 140K miles so if you're in that vicinity you might consider getting it checked/replaced. I replaced the pump in my '99 Galant V6 at 120K since there wasn't any extra labor as they were already changing the timing belt. It, BTW, warms up to just under half on the gauge and stays there, at least that's what I've noticed. I don't monitor it that closely.

    And it wouldn't hurt to have the car's diagnostic codes read. Some places will do that for free or very cheap ($15ish). It _may_ (but might not) give a clue as to why the temp is running higher before the initial start of the fan.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • dani_letty_maddani_letty_mad Member Posts: 1
    Recently, when the engine has cooled down. I leave to go to work at night an when I turn the key it starts but has a hard time doing so. Like it turns over starts but like kinda shakes for that split second. An at idle it kinda misses or bogs at idle. I keep getting told that its most likely my spark plugs and possibly wires. Since when its driven a block or so its fine. I just want another opinion on what someone else think it would be. It has 106k currently a 2003 es 2.4 cl has always been on time with all scheduled stuff just haven gotten the 90k maintence tooken care of yet.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Possibilities:
    - Spark plugs or wires. When were they last replaced (if ever)?
    - Bad tank of gas. Try a few tanks of Shell Premium or another Top Tier gas ( http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html ).
    - Idle sensor malfunction. Have mechanic inspect.
    - Air or fuel filter. Likely your air filter changed at 90K; at 106K it _may_ be due for another change if your conditions warrant it (dusty, etc.).
    - Initial demand for A/C if you're using that. Low probability. Make sure it's off when you shut off the car so it won't start up when starting the car.
    - Motor mount problem. Low probability. Have mechanic inspect.
    - Probably other things I'm not thinking of.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonathan1980jonathan1980 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 04 galant 4 cylinder. The check engine light came on recently and stayed on for 2 days and is now off. However when stopped the car idles rough as if it were going to stall out, it has stalled once. There is also a pinging noise as well and the longer the car is stopped in gear the louder the noise gets.

    I have since had a tune up completed even though it is not at the recommended mileage and an oil change. This did not change anything. Last week i thought i owned a cadillac it was quiet and ran smoothly this week i feel i own a car from the 80's loud and rough

    Any idea's what this could be from.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Could be a clogged fuel filter. Could be a loose gas cap; that's the classic trigger for a CEL. Could be a fault in the exhaust system. You can have the engine's computer codes read to see if there's anything there. But it also could just be a tank of bad gas. Top off the tank with a top tier brand ( http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html ) right away and after each 1/4 tank you go through. After doing this 3 or 4 times, if you had bad gas it should be pretty well diluted with the "good stuff". If bad gas was the cause, after each top up the problems should diminish.

    In a previous car I got a bad tank of gas from an Amoco station and I wound up replacing the plugs & wires and doing a few other things before I figured out that's what it was.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonathan1980jonathan1980 Member Posts: 5
    Found out that it was an EGR valve. Not covered by extended warranty. Cost about $450 at the dealer ship. The part itself at a automotive shop is about $230.00.
    Pep Boy's tried to tell me $750.00 WHAT THE HELL!!!!!!! isn't the dealer supposed to be more expensive? However i will get a second opinion to see if it needs to be cleaned or replaced could be a big cost saver.
  • jonathan1980jonathan1980 Member Posts: 5
    Code read EGR valve. Cost $230 for the part. cost at dealer with part and labor is about 430.00 on their estimate. Pep Boys estimate is over $700 :sick: . WHAT THE HELL. isn't the dealer usually more money than anyone.

    But i will have a second opinion to see if it needs replacement or cleaning this could save me a ton of money. :)
  • wphillipwphillip Member Posts: 1
    i have a mit. galant yr 2000, could i use a 6a13 dohc turbo 92-96 engine and tran. in it.
  • mcooneymcooney Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at purchasing an 03 Mit. Galant. It has no heat, we disconnected the hoses going to the heater core and it appears that there is no flow thru the heater core. Any Ideas?
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    A real quick Google of "mitsubishi heater core 2003" showed one for $72.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I went through that drill a couple of winters back on my wife"s 02 galant. I had to take out the dash and replace a little electric motor that opens and closes the water to the heater core.
  • ninja_turtleninja_turtle Member Posts: 5
  • ninja_turtleninja_turtle Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2003 mitsubishi gallant. i can not get the power sockets to work. i checked the fuse, the fuse was good. please help with any sugestions
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    On the wife's 02 the socket came loose and fell back into the consul. She's been using the cigarette lighter for her phone charger so I left it at that. I don't care to tear into it if'en I don't have to. I have other Junkers that keep me busy enough.

    In your case is it possible the fire wire going to your sockets has a break in it or a fusible link. Try this. Take the fuse out and check the continuity with your ohm meter between the socket and where the fuse goes in. If it has continuity, check the ground side to the chassis.
  • ninja_turtleninja_turtle Member Posts: 5
    thank you for the information. what do you mean of a fusible link fuse. is this another fuse except for the one in the fuse box. thanks christian
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Some cars have a fusible link inline which is nothing more than a segment of wire that melts when the circuit over heats to protect the circuit. :)
  • scottisherescottishere Member Posts: 3
    I have one on my 2008 Galant. I'm not sure if the one on the 2009 model works the same way, but here's what I do. After connecting the iPod to the adapter, I use the steering wheel audio controls to navigate to 'CD2'. On the steering wheel controls, there is a rocker switch on each side of the steering wheel and a little knob in the middle. Use that little knob on the right-hand side to navigate to CD2. However, I have to predetermine what I want the iPod to play (by selecting a playlist, an artist, or an album) before I connect it to the iPod adapter. I can also set 'shuffle' on 'all songs' before connecting it to the adapter. Once the iPod is connected, I can do little with it except go alphabetically from track to track. It's a bit limiting, but at least you can easily listen to your iPod through the car speakers, and it charges your iPod at the same time. It's much better than the FM transmitters.

    Hope that helps. :)
  • gavianngaviann Member Posts: 1
    Good Morning Hoodlatch...I am having an issue with my 02 Mitsubishi galant..I believe the issue is with my heater control valve. When the heater used to work , I observed a clicking noise. I previously have had my thermostate change, water pump checked, coolant level checked but no one seems to know what the problem is. The dealer said if its the heater control valve then it will cost 1000 to replace. This is truly a rip off...Is there anyway you can guide me through the process?
    :confuse:

    Gloria
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    It’s a shame the money they want to charge these days. The dealer doesn’t lift the hood on a car for less than $100.00.

    It’s been a couple of years since I fixed the heater on the wife’s car and my memory isn’t that great. I would be glad to pass along what ever I can do to help in the way of first hand experiences on repairs.

    Another good web site for information on how the different approaches that were taken to fix the same problem are: http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=7&nav=messages&webtag=ab-autorepair- &tid=24875

    Basically to get to the control valve motor you need to access under the dash on the passenger side. This means things like glove box, airbag, trim, radio, control panel, and ducts have to come out. I started by disconnecting the battery and then using ¼ in. drive metric sockets and screwdrivers started taking it apart. All it takes it patients. Airbags scare me so I always treat them with great respect.

    Good luck and happy motoring. :shades:
  • sammy2chinssammy2chins Member Posts: 1
    looking at a 2007 galant se (25,000 miles) . Do you think this is a reliable good car that doesn't have chronic issues.??..Or should I just go with a 2007 Ford Fusion.

    I don't see anyone driving galants..Is there a reason for this>>
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Galant sales are down. Among the available midsize sedans to be honest it's good but not as good as a lot of the competition. It is overdue for a redesign or at least a significant freshening.

    The Fusion is good and getting better.

    I had a 4 cyl Galant as a rental last week. Probably an 08 or 09 as it had over 20K miles on it. It was decent, but not great. The engine was not as quiet as I would have preferred and there was an interior dash rattle (we isolated it; it would be an easy fix and I reported it to Hertz). On northern Washington roads (which are worn concrete) there was more road noise than I would expect. Comfort and fuel economy were good and power was never lacking (carrying 3 adults all the time + luggage sometimes). Trunk size was decent but could have been a little deeper.

    I also had a Fusion as a rental in Hawaii this past October. Not sure of the year but probably an 09 as it only had a few thousand miles on it. Overall I'd say the Fusion was a nicer ride. I don't recall it being loud or having any other NVH (noise - vibration - harshness) issues. The trunk was roomier. Power was just adequate; I would have preferred a bit more.

    BTW, this sounds like I'm somewhat down on the Galant. It is not a bad car but just isn't quite as good as the competition. From a reliability standpoint there shouldn't be any particular issues with either vehicle, but the Galant probably has more factory warranty left (I think the '07s have the 5 year/60K warranty).

    If the Galant is cheaper, I'd lean towards it. If they're priced similarly, I'd lean towards the Fusion.

    I owned a '99 Galant until last month when I bought a '10 Outlander. So I'm a Mitsu fan in general. But IMO they have not kept the Galant up to speed with the competition. You might consider a Sonata of similar age as well.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jbgalantjbgalant Member Posts: 5
    Spare yourself the trouble with a galant. 2006 model had the service break go out in year one. At 1.5 yrs and 30k miles, spent $1100 on new tires and aligment as alignment had become so bad, tires wore down to steel. Right at 60k miles, service engine soon light came on. At 60,300 miles ac went out during hot summer. Brakes went out at 65,000. Put to new batteries in it since 2006. Bought the car brand new.
  • jbgalantjbgalant Member Posts: 5
    My SES light came on right when I hit 60k miles. Literally simultaneously. At 60,300 miles my AC quit blowing cold air. I've recharged ac a few times and it blows cold but eventually leaks out again and blows hot. I recenty passed emissions tearing with intermitent SES light. Is it possible my SES light and AC problems are related? Anyway to know what my AC problem might be given the intermitent SES light but no emissions problems?

    Thanks
  • jbgalantjbgalant Member Posts: 5
    Spare yourself the trouble with a galant. 2006 model had the service break go out in year one. At 1.5 yrs and 30k miles, spent $1100 on new tires and aligment as alignment had become so bad, tires wore down to steel. Right at 60k miles, service engine soon light came on. At 60,300 miles ac went out during hot summer. Brakes went out at 65,000. Put two new batteries in it since 2006. Bought the car brand new.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    What is a "service break"? Did you mean brake like the parking brake? This would have been covered under warranty so while an annoyance it shouldn't be considered a major issue.

    Few cars have OEM tires that actually last a long time. Hunt around Edmunds and you'll see posts from others who didn't get many miles from their tires. And I'm sure the tires lives were shortened by being out of alignment so much. That can really accelerate wear.

    The service engine light probably came on at 60K as that's a major service interval on the Galant as well as most other vehicles. Timing belt, etc. are due for replacement.

    The AC going out is not good, but my '99 Galant had 152K miles and the AC had never needed so much as a recharge. Were you able to get Mitsu to fix the AC under warranty or at least split the cost since you were just out of the 60K main warranty? This is where having a good relationship with your service shop can pay off.

    Needing brake pads at 65K is not bad. Brakes can last from 20K miles and longer; it is highly dependent on the nature of driving (highway v. city) and driving habits (harsh braking v. light pedal pressure). On my Galant, after a brake job at 67K, I never needed brakes afterward as I adopted a style of coasting to reduce speed then braking with mild pedal pressure when traffic allowed. I had the brakes checked in the 130K mile range and wear was minimal.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jbgalantjbgalant Member Posts: 5
    The parking break should have been covered but they said it was some obscure part not covered. It was the start of a poor relationship with the dealer and service dept. When I asked Svc dept about the AC going out at 60,300 they said "sorry you're on your own.". The Mitsubishi service is pathetic and gimicky. As for the car, you'd need to experience for yourself all the problems I have had with this well maintained car before trying to provide rational for why things have happened to the car. I'll never buy another Mitsubishi new or used because the product and service are horrible.
  • colloquorcolloquor Member Posts: 482
    "The parking break..."

    You mean brake.

    Break = taking time off
  • amaeloezeamaeloeze Member Posts: 1
    Hello i'm a college student and i have a nice 2003 Mitsubishi Galant with 125k miles. I'm debating if i should keep the car or trade it for a new car. The thing is that i'm moving, i currently live in NJ but i'm moving to AR for school to pursue my masters degree. The Masters program is going to take about 3 years to finish, i want to know for the people who have a Galant with alot of miles, do you think i should trade it in and get a new car or do you think this car is still going to last me another 3 years. I need a car that's going to be reliable. Also to mention i've been keeping up with the maintance for this car, i haven't missed an oil change yet. Please help me, what do you guys suggest that i should do? Thanks for reading.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    If you've kept up with the maintenance then there shouldn't be any issues with it surviving. I recently sold my '99 Galant LS V6 (same generation as yours); it had 152K miles and everything from the power windows to the stereo still worked. IMHO the maintenance is key, including not just oil changes but the timing belt and other scheduled service. The weather in AR, specifically the harshness of winter, should be better so environmentally the car should like it more.

    You might also consider switching to synthetic oil. I went from regular oil every 3K to synthetic every 5K. In the end it's less expensive & synthetic is considered superior to dino-oil.

    FWIW I replaced my Galant with a 2010 Outlander GT, so I've confidence in Mitsubishi vehicles.

    Also, if you do decide to replace it, more than likely you'll get far more for it as a private party sale than as a trade-in at the dealer. The dealer only offered $500 for my Galant as a trade-in but my brother-in-law sold it for me for $2500.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • bjpleinbjplein Member Posts: 2
    Am I the only one who has a Galant that the hood is bending away from the fenders without having been in an accident? It seems to be bowing from front to back. It has been happening over time and now the hood is about 1-2 inches above the fenders. This is the wierdest thing. The hood stayed latched at first but now I can't even get it open. Time for a new hood but this must be a manufacturing problem. Anyone else out there with this problem?
  • tdub76tdub76 Member Posts: 1
    Newbie here. My name is Thomas. Can anyone tell me how to disable the seat belt alarm in my 05 galant es?
  • fishbowl85fishbowl85 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2006 galant w/ projector headlights and i installed a hid kit but, when my car is running and my lights are off they flicker so i have to leave my lights on all the time while my car is running. does anyone know how to bypass the daytime running lights
  • jorgy57jorgy57 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, the tranny went out about a month ago at 143,xxx miles no prior warning just a whirring sound on the way to work one morning and that's it. I have had the pan dropped and have been told the bands are burnt and the lining is lying in the pan. I bought this car 2 years ago and haven't had any problems with it other than replacing the blower motor for the heat/ac. Exterior is clean no rust and doesn't burn a drop of oil although it could use a tuneup, gas mileage not so good lately. Can anyone help in locating a used transmission. The ones I have found all have very high mileage on them. Do you thInk it would be worth it to fix the car or to just move on to something else. Thanks for any help that anyone could offer.
  • sospecial21sospecial21 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2005 galant from an auto auction. It has 48,000 miles on it right now. I bought it as is and there is no warranty on it. I bought the car in February and i have spent more time getting it fixed than actually driving it. When i first got it, they replaced my O2 sensor then about a month later i had to have my EGR valve replaced on it. It wouldn't turn over for me one day and i had to have to towed to my house. My battery is fine and so it my starter, everything comes on, the lights and everything. I had two mechanics look at it. I was told it was my fuel pump, so i replace the fuel pump, car worked for a whole day and then wouldn't turn over again. My uncle who is a certified mechanic sprayed carbon cleaner where the air filter is and it made the car start, but once he stopped spraying it, it died out again. Anyone have any idea what is happening? I have already spent close to 3000 dollars fixing this car, its really beginning to upset me cause the car only had one previous owner and seemed fine from the car fax, grrrrrr. :sick:
  • gailalonggailalong Member Posts: 12
    believe or not, I am still driving my 1990 Galant....but only has 135,000m.. The big problem with it is that the AC has gone out....for the second time. I replaced the whole thing about 7 years ago, and now it is not worth it to do again, so I will buy a new car soon, after only 18 years. I can say it has been great except for the AC...no unusual problems. I certainly have gotten value out of it. I was thinking of buying another one, but several people knowledgeable about cars have warned me against it. Think I will get an Altima probably. I have no idea why I have been told to stay away from them...oh well. I have certainly gotten good value from mine.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    There's no reason to stay away from a more current Galant. Your experience, as well as others like me, has shown that Mitsus are reliable cars. Mitsu is a small player in the US and there's occasional "gossip" that they'll leave the US. But they've repeated said they're committed to the US market. Here's a video they made to celebrate 3 million cars being made at their Normal, Illinois plant (home to Galant, Eclipse, and Endeavor): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NX8j3HZWb40

    Of course, the current Galant design is a little dated compared to others. That's not necessarily a bad thing; just that the normal 5ish year model cycle has run longer. You drive a 20 year old car now so I can't believe it would matter to you.

    If I might make a suggestion, how about picking up a used Galant now, say a 2005-2007 model, and running it for a few years. You should be able to pick one up for a decent price. IIRC the Galant will be redesigned in 2012 so getting a used one today might set you up to buy a new one in 2-3 years.

    I had a '99 Galant for almost 11 years and 152K miles before I moved on to a '10 Outlander this past December. This is the first time in my life I've been satisfied enough to buy the same car brand back to back. Not GM, Mercury, Mazda, Toyota, or Nissan have been able to earn my loyalty but Mitsu has.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • damyon2521damyon2521 Member Posts: 1
    I was in an Accident with my 02 galant and don't want to give it up. the problem is the airbags came out and won't start wondering why? also what is the easiest way to fixe the air bag situation my self? and suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

    D
  • bigsteve21bigsteve21 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 mitzu galant v6.the car ran smooth as can be for the past 4-5 years with no problems.drove to store and car started to stutter a little when i would accelorate,then i would press the gas peddle down and the car seemed like it didnt want to go then it finnaly took off.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    sounds like its time for a tune up including plug wires. its hard to diagnose the transmission till the engine is up to par. on my 02 i change the transmission fluid and filter every couple years. i doubt seriously that the transmission is going out based on your input. sounds like a good tune up would do a world of wonders for you. :shades:
  • ariesahariesah Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone come up with a solution to this issue? My 2002 Galant started doing that about a week ago.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    If your symptoms are similar - fuse blows regardless of which accessories are being used or are disconnected - then I'd strongly suspect there's a short in the wiring somewhere. Best guess would be the insulation around a power lead has either melted due to heat over time or has been frayed off due to friction from rubbing against something.

    Wiring harness problems, if that's what this is, can be tricky to diagnose. Especially when the problem is with an accessory intermittently failing. But since this isn't so much a power failure as the fuse blowing, I suspect it isn't a loose connection; more likely its an exposed wire that's rubbing against other metal, creating the short which causes the fuse to blow.

    There could also be a problem with built up corrosion. So do the easy thing first: Clean the battery terminals and any other noticeable corrosion points in the wiring.

    You might also search the Eclipse & Endeavor forums for the issue. Those cars are built using the same platform (and on the same manufacturing line) and may have similarities in the wiring harness design as it pertains to your problem.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • ariesahariesah Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I am having the exact same issue as jsabia85. So far I pulled out the driver side door panel, dome light, dash (near inside fuse box), and steering colom. Stared tracing wires accociated with this circut. So far I have not seen any sign on worn or burnt wires. I was hoping someone had found their problem to give a better direction. Good thing is, I can pull and put together these items pretty quick now but doesn't help if I cant find the issue. :confuse:
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I bought this 2009 Galant ES Sport Edition in July with 22k miles. I've put less than 3k miles on it so far in the 3 months that I've had it. So far, I like it pretty well, I decided on it over a Honda Accord and a Ford Fusion. However, I'm beginning to wonder...did I make the right decision?

    First of all, the speaker in the passenger side door rattles and has since I've had it. It really goes crazy when I listen to song with a lot of bass in it.
    Secondly, earlier this week when I was leaving work, I had the A/C cranked up and I heard a rattling sound coming from the dash on the passenger side. This rattling could be compared to a mild form of a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. I thought maybe something was flapping inside one of the vents. However, this rattling sound has gotten worse as the week has gone on. It is most noticeable when the fan is on lower speeds, but it does it all the time. I popped the hood and the noise can be heard on the outside as well on the passenger side near the base of the windshield. My concern is, is the fan motor about to go out? Or is this a rattle that I can deal with until I get a chance to take the car to the dealer?
    Thirdly, my car is equipped with the Bluetooth Hands Free System. I noticed within the last few weeks that when I press the button to turn it on, instead of the voice saying "(phone) connected, ready" or just "ready", it just beeps once. If I don't say or do anything, it will them prompt me with options. Also, when someone calls me and the voice says "incoming call, press the phone button to answer," I press the phone button and the Bluetooth temporarily disconnects and hangs up on my caller. It does it every time. Also sometimes when I'm making a call using the hands free, the system will go back to the radio even though my call is still in progress.
    While none of the above issues really affect the driving of the vehicle, except maybe if the fan motor goes out and I can't defog/defrost my windshield, it still bothers me that I'm already experiencing some type of problem with the car. It is well under warranty, but this will entail wasting at least a day if not more at the dealership service dept which is an hour away from my house.
    Any tips or advice is appreciated!!
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Sounds like you have a few teething pains in your new-to-you ride. Good news is that a 2009 with 25K miles still has bumper-to-bumper warranty. As to your issues:

    1. Sounds like a loose mounting is making the speaker vibrate. That, or a gasket/dampening mount isn't doing it's job. Probably an easy fix after getting the door panel off (also relatively easy). Let the dealer do it though if you're inclined you can probably do it yourself. (Now, if the speaker was distorting and not vibrating, that would indicate too much time at too high volume and the speaker is shot and needs to replaced .. and that wouldn't be a warranty item)

    2. Fan noise. First guess is there's something caught in the fan duct that's hitting the blades. As with your example, imagine something like a leaf got sucked in the intake. Second guess is the fan itself is going bad. That's unlikely with such low mileage but anything's possible.

    3. Bluetooth. Since it was saying the full routine and now doesn't, I'd see about getting it replaced under warranty. That said, it's possible that your phone & the Galant's BT module aren't 100% compatible. My Outlander, for instance, works perfectly with my phone but doesn't even recognize my wife's phone and the phones are the same brand. Have you tried deleting the phone & re-pairing it?

    Since your dealer is an hour away, ask the service adviser for a service loaner for the day while they look at the car. If they don't have one, ask if they can at least shuttle you someplace where you won't be stuck in a waiting room. My Mitsu dealer will give shuttle rides for service as minor as oil changes.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    Fushigi, thanks for getting back to me so quickly!

    1. The speaker vibration sounds like your diagnosis would fit. The speaker itself isn't blown, it's an actual vibration in the door panel. When I take it in for my next service, I'll add this to the list. I can do a lot of things myself, but when one is under warranty, I usually shy away from doing anything that could possibly void it.

    2. At first I was thinking like you, probably a leaf or something. But it has gotten worse and sounds more mechanical now rather than something loose flapping inside.

    3. I have a Blackberry Tour, which is the second phone I've used with the Bluetooth. I had another tour just like the one I currently have and never had any problems. That phone died on me so I got a replacement, and it worked just fine at first. Then suddenly it started acting up. I did delete and re-pair the phone but it behaves the same. I am going to try another phone on it and see how it does. If it does the same thing I will have it addressed as well.

    The warranty is one of the reasons why I picked this car over a Honda Accord and a Ford Fusion, both of which only had 3yr/36k. Unfortunately, it looks like I will be making use of it very soon!
  • ariesahariesah Member Posts: 3
    My short was in the visor/Vanity mirror. Not sure what caused it, but I disconnected the harness and it has worked ever since. I used a Multimeter, set for contunity to help troubleshoot. Placed the positive cable in the fuse panel where the fuse kept blowing and the negative to ground. Checked every wire location (Firewall, fuse panels, harnesses, domelight, trunk, ectt) until the continuity signal stopped. ;)
  • gregoryvggregoryvg Member Posts: 1
    On my 2002 Galant the ceiling upholstery (in the rear part of the cabin/ceiling, over the back seats) is coming off and hangs down about 2 inches. Anyone know a cheap and easy fix for this? Also, the molding that runs from the front window, over the top of the car and down the back window (the water seal) is breaking apart and lifting up. Anyone else having that problem and know a fix?
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