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you can find it from any used car dealer.
I have a 2001 Mitsubishi gallant es 4 cylinder model. Lately I have noticed an issue with my cooling system. Not sure if this is an issue but here goes the detail
I start my car. the temp control is below cold as I am driving my car my the temp control rises up and hits the halfway mark .the cooling fan starts off. The cooling process is started after 2-3 min the temp control goes a little above the half way mark more like 52-53% it stays there for a minute or two and then drops to 50% and then 48% and then stays there for the whole time. This happens every time I start the car and there is sufficient interval for the car to cool a little between subsequent starts.
I noticed my reserve coolant white box was empty so i put in prestone 50-50 ready to use any color mix in the reserve and drove it for some time and then noticed that the radiator had sucked some coolant an the level had gone 10% down n the coolant reserve box. The above thing still happens though even after topping the coolant
Firstly is this an issue? Or normal behavior and if it is an issue what could it be
Any help will be greatly appreciated
An outside possibility would be the water pump not kicking in right when it should. They commonly last maybe 140K miles so if you're in that vicinity you might consider getting it checked/replaced. I replaced the pump in my '99 Galant V6 at 120K since there wasn't any extra labor as they were already changing the timing belt. It, BTW, warms up to just under half on the gauge and stays there, at least that's what I've noticed. I don't monitor it that closely.
And it wouldn't hurt to have the car's diagnostic codes read. Some places will do that for free or very cheap ($15ish). It _may_ (but might not) give a clue as to why the temp is running higher before the initial start of the fan.
- Spark plugs or wires. When were they last replaced (if ever)?
- Bad tank of gas. Try a few tanks of Shell Premium or another Top Tier gas ( http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html ).
- Idle sensor malfunction. Have mechanic inspect.
- Air or fuel filter. Likely your air filter changed at 90K; at 106K it _may_ be due for another change if your conditions warrant it (dusty, etc.).
- Initial demand for A/C if you're using that. Low probability. Make sure it's off when you shut off the car so it won't start up when starting the car.
- Motor mount problem. Low probability. Have mechanic inspect.
- Probably other things I'm not thinking of.
I have since had a tune up completed even though it is not at the recommended mileage and an oil change. This did not change anything. Last week i thought i owned a cadillac it was quiet and ran smoothly this week i feel i own a car from the 80's loud and rough
Any idea's what this could be from.
In a previous car I got a bad tank of gas from an Amoco station and I wound up replacing the plugs & wires and doing a few other things before I figured out that's what it was.
Pep Boy's tried to tell me $750.00 WHAT THE HELL!!!!!!! isn't the dealer supposed to be more expensive? However i will get a second opinion to see if it needs to be cleaned or replaced could be a big cost saver.
But i will have a second opinion to see if it needs replacement or cleaning this could save me a ton of money.
In your case is it possible the fire wire going to your sockets has a break in it or a fusible link. Try this. Take the fuse out and check the continuity with your ohm meter between the socket and where the fuse goes in. If it has continuity, check the ground side to the chassis.
Hope that helps.
:confuse:
Gloria
It’s been a couple of years since I fixed the heater on the wife’s car and my memory isn’t that great. I would be glad to pass along what ever I can do to help in the way of first hand experiences on repairs.
Another good web site for information on how the different approaches that were taken to fix the same problem are: http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=7&nav=messages&webtag=ab-autorepair- &tid=24875
Basically to get to the control valve motor you need to access under the dash on the passenger side. This means things like glove box, airbag, trim, radio, control panel, and ducts have to come out. I started by disconnecting the battery and then using ¼ in. drive metric sockets and screwdrivers started taking it apart. All it takes it patients. Airbags scare me so I always treat them with great respect.
Good luck and happy motoring. :shades:
I don't see anyone driving galants..Is there a reason for this>>
The Fusion is good and getting better.
I had a 4 cyl Galant as a rental last week. Probably an 08 or 09 as it had over 20K miles on it. It was decent, but not great. The engine was not as quiet as I would have preferred and there was an interior dash rattle (we isolated it; it would be an easy fix and I reported it to Hertz). On northern Washington roads (which are worn concrete) there was more road noise than I would expect. Comfort and fuel economy were good and power was never lacking (carrying 3 adults all the time + luggage sometimes). Trunk size was decent but could have been a little deeper.
I also had a Fusion as a rental in Hawaii this past October. Not sure of the year but probably an 09 as it only had a few thousand miles on it. Overall I'd say the Fusion was a nicer ride. I don't recall it being loud or having any other NVH (noise - vibration - harshness) issues. The trunk was roomier. Power was just adequate; I would have preferred a bit more.
BTW, this sounds like I'm somewhat down on the Galant. It is not a bad car but just isn't quite as good as the competition. From a reliability standpoint there shouldn't be any particular issues with either vehicle, but the Galant probably has more factory warranty left (I think the '07s have the 5 year/60K warranty).
If the Galant is cheaper, I'd lean towards it. If they're priced similarly, I'd lean towards the Fusion.
I owned a '99 Galant until last month when I bought a '10 Outlander. So I'm a Mitsu fan in general. But IMO they have not kept the Galant up to speed with the competition. You might consider a Sonata of similar age as well.
Thanks
Few cars have OEM tires that actually last a long time. Hunt around Edmunds and you'll see posts from others who didn't get many miles from their tires. And I'm sure the tires lives were shortened by being out of alignment so much. That can really accelerate wear.
The service engine light probably came on at 60K as that's a major service interval on the Galant as well as most other vehicles. Timing belt, etc. are due for replacement.
The AC going out is not good, but my '99 Galant had 152K miles and the AC had never needed so much as a recharge. Were you able to get Mitsu to fix the AC under warranty or at least split the cost since you were just out of the 60K main warranty? This is where having a good relationship with your service shop can pay off.
Needing brake pads at 65K is not bad. Brakes can last from 20K miles and longer; it is highly dependent on the nature of driving (highway v. city) and driving habits (harsh braking v. light pedal pressure). On my Galant, after a brake job at 67K, I never needed brakes afterward as I adopted a style of coasting to reduce speed then braking with mild pedal pressure when traffic allowed. I had the brakes checked in the 130K mile range and wear was minimal.
You mean brake.
Break = taking time off
You might also consider switching to synthetic oil. I went from regular oil every 3K to synthetic every 5K. In the end it's less expensive & synthetic is considered superior to dino-oil.
FWIW I replaced my Galant with a 2010 Outlander GT, so I've confidence in Mitsubishi vehicles.
Also, if you do decide to replace it, more than likely you'll get far more for it as a private party sale than as a trade-in at the dealer. The dealer only offered $500 for my Galant as a trade-in but my brother-in-law sold it for me for $2500.
Of course, the current Galant design is a little dated compared to others. That's not necessarily a bad thing; just that the normal 5ish year model cycle has run longer. You drive a 20 year old car now so I can't believe it would matter to you.
If I might make a suggestion, how about picking up a used Galant now, say a 2005-2007 model, and running it for a few years. You should be able to pick one up for a decent price. IIRC the Galant will be redesigned in 2012 so getting a used one today might set you up to buy a new one in 2-3 years.
I had a '99 Galant for almost 11 years and 152K miles before I moved on to a '10 Outlander this past December. This is the first time in my life I've been satisfied enough to buy the same car brand back to back. Not GM, Mercury, Mazda, Toyota, or Nissan have been able to earn my loyalty but Mitsu has.
D
Wiring harness problems, if that's what this is, can be tricky to diagnose. Especially when the problem is with an accessory intermittently failing. But since this isn't so much a power failure as the fuse blowing, I suspect it isn't a loose connection; more likely its an exposed wire that's rubbing against other metal, creating the short which causes the fuse to blow.
There could also be a problem with built up corrosion. So do the easy thing first: Clean the battery terminals and any other noticeable corrosion points in the wiring.
You might also search the Eclipse & Endeavor forums for the issue. Those cars are built using the same platform (and on the same manufacturing line) and may have similarities in the wiring harness design as it pertains to your problem.
First of all, the speaker in the passenger side door rattles and has since I've had it. It really goes crazy when I listen to song with a lot of bass in it.
Secondly, earlier this week when I was leaving work, I had the A/C cranked up and I heard a rattling sound coming from the dash on the passenger side. This rattling could be compared to a mild form of a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. I thought maybe something was flapping inside one of the vents. However, this rattling sound has gotten worse as the week has gone on. It is most noticeable when the fan is on lower speeds, but it does it all the time. I popped the hood and the noise can be heard on the outside as well on the passenger side near the base of the windshield. My concern is, is the fan motor about to go out? Or is this a rattle that I can deal with until I get a chance to take the car to the dealer?
Thirdly, my car is equipped with the Bluetooth Hands Free System. I noticed within the last few weeks that when I press the button to turn it on, instead of the voice saying "(phone) connected, ready" or just "ready", it just beeps once. If I don't say or do anything, it will them prompt me with options. Also, when someone calls me and the voice says "incoming call, press the phone button to answer," I press the phone button and the Bluetooth temporarily disconnects and hangs up on my caller. It does it every time. Also sometimes when I'm making a call using the hands free, the system will go back to the radio even though my call is still in progress.
While none of the above issues really affect the driving of the vehicle, except maybe if the fan motor goes out and I can't defog/defrost my windshield, it still bothers me that I'm already experiencing some type of problem with the car. It is well under warranty, but this will entail wasting at least a day if not more at the dealership service dept which is an hour away from my house.
Any tips or advice is appreciated!!
1. Sounds like a loose mounting is making the speaker vibrate. That, or a gasket/dampening mount isn't doing it's job. Probably an easy fix after getting the door panel off (also relatively easy). Let the dealer do it though if you're inclined you can probably do it yourself. (Now, if the speaker was distorting and not vibrating, that would indicate too much time at too high volume and the speaker is shot and needs to replaced .. and that wouldn't be a warranty item)
2. Fan noise. First guess is there's something caught in the fan duct that's hitting the blades. As with your example, imagine something like a leaf got sucked in the intake. Second guess is the fan itself is going bad. That's unlikely with such low mileage but anything's possible.
3. Bluetooth. Since it was saying the full routine and now doesn't, I'd see about getting it replaced under warranty. That said, it's possible that your phone & the Galant's BT module aren't 100% compatible. My Outlander, for instance, works perfectly with my phone but doesn't even recognize my wife's phone and the phones are the same brand. Have you tried deleting the phone & re-pairing it?
Since your dealer is an hour away, ask the service adviser for a service loaner for the day while they look at the car. If they don't have one, ask if they can at least shuttle you someplace where you won't be stuck in a waiting room. My Mitsu dealer will give shuttle rides for service as minor as oil changes.
1. The speaker vibration sounds like your diagnosis would fit. The speaker itself isn't blown, it's an actual vibration in the door panel. When I take it in for my next service, I'll add this to the list. I can do a lot of things myself, but when one is under warranty, I usually shy away from doing anything that could possibly void it.
2. At first I was thinking like you, probably a leaf or something. But it has gotten worse and sounds more mechanical now rather than something loose flapping inside.
3. I have a Blackberry Tour, which is the second phone I've used with the Bluetooth. I had another tour just like the one I currently have and never had any problems. That phone died on me so I got a replacement, and it worked just fine at first. Then suddenly it started acting up. I did delete and re-pair the phone but it behaves the same. I am going to try another phone on it and see how it does. If it does the same thing I will have it addressed as well.
The warranty is one of the reasons why I picked this car over a Honda Accord and a Ford Fusion, both of which only had 3yr/36k. Unfortunately, it looks like I will be making use of it very soon!