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So far it has been reasonable. I will try to post a summary of all costs if I find the time, I have all the receipts since day one.
Anybody replace this as a do it yourself project? If so, any tips? Does the hex head that is available on the end of the pulley centerline which is used to release belt tension with a wrench also unscrew to make remove the pulley, or does the whole pulley and arm have to be replaced as a unit?
The procedure is basically remove the belt, crawl underneath, undo the bolt, put on the new tensioner, and then replace the belt.
Don't forget to also check out the idler pulley that also has a bearing.
What other pulley are you talking about? I assume you mean a different non-tensioning idler pulley that redirects the belt to the other belt driven components?
I am 99% sure that just the tensioner pulley is noisy, as once I got a little WD-40 into that pulley, everything else was quiet.
If WD40 quietened the noise, it may not be the tensioner pulley. Sometimes, the grooves and the ridges, with wear, will make that noise too.
If the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley goes bad, it makes a characteristic sound that usually does not respond to things like WD40. Sometimes, the pulley loses just a bit of alignment, and that lead to a thrown belt when for example driving through a rain puddle.
In any case, this is not a difficult job.
Some hints: Ramps make things easier. Wear long sleeves. Work on a cold engine. The tensioner pulley bolt cannot be seen, but can be felt with fingers. Make sure you get the socket (15 mm I think) on right, otherwise it will be hell to remove if you strip the corners. Check the new tensioner for any roughness on the seating surface, as even a small amount of casting excess will make the belt likely to be thrown off.
Good Luck.
I have done some further research and it appears that one can buy the tensioner pulley only without the arm and spring, at least on an aftermarket basis. I will probably take a look at the parts before buying to decide which route to go
I used the plastic tube nozzle on the WD40 to attempt to just get it into the bearing area, so I don't think the pulley grooves got lubed. Don't want to lube a belt if I can help it, not prudent to lube something that isn't supposed to slip.
I've taken it to the dealer several times:
1st time the drain hose was cleaned out, this did nothing.
2nd time the drain hose was replaced with a longer hose according to the TSB on this vehicle. This fix was done late in the summer. The leak didn't occur again that summer, but don't remember that it was ever called to serious duty again that season.
3rd time (following summer) the dealer spent 2-3 days trying to get the vehicle to leak--they let the vehicle idle with the A/C on high. This did not cause the leak to occur. My theory is that the leak only occurs when the vehicle is in motion and the water is draining back against the body of the vehicle and not just dropping straight to the ground. The dealer wasn't interested in my theories and thought I was wasting his tech's time trying to find a leak. He even suggested that the water was the result of one of my kids spilling a glass of water!
Any ideas?
This problem happened on my voyager 1997 where the evaporator is located on the top of the front passengers left leg.(3) Check for cracks on the evaporator coil case plit joint. Hope this will help.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A friend's 99 GC has 64,000 miles on original disc pads.
Obviously the type driving is the most important factor in disc pad or drum brake shoe lining wearing out prematurely.
Six to seven thousand miles on front pads is premature wear. There are a number of things that could be influencing short pad life.
*Poor pad quality or incorrect pad type -- Many people are reporting low pad life with ceramic or organic composition pads. The factory originally installed semi-metallic material and that's what should be on your vehicle. There is also a wide degree of quality range with semi-metallic as well.
*Poor rotor surface condition -- Vehicles driven short distances in high humidity or wet environments will often suffer from rust scuzz build up on the rotor surface. This inhibits stopping and aggressively expends pad material in order to stop the vehicle.
*Sticking or frozen calipers -- If you've replaced them very recently they're probably okay, but the dust boots can become damaged from stones or other debris that could cause the piston bore to take in moisture and rust prematurely.
*Defective master cylinder -- Yes, it happens. If the pressure valve sticks the brakes will stay partially applied all the time.
*Defective brake hoses -- As the material ages and is sofened by brake fluid, the rubber hose from the frame to the caliper can become constricted and hold pressure at the caliper even though the brake pedal has been released. This is usually common with vehicles that are older than five or six years, but I've seen it on some that weren't that old.
*Conditions/Driving Habits -- If you live in hilly country you will not get the optimum mileage out of brakes. If you tow heavy trailers or carry heavy passenger or cargo loads, this will have a bearing on brake life, too. However, the miles you're reporting are still too low in my opinion. With no offense intended, one must examine the driving habits of all the drivers who use this vehicle. Fast drivers and pedal-riders can expect excessively short pad life.
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks for the response.
Check engine light came on Friday morning. Then, the temperature guage started jumping up and down, one second it was normal, the next it was near the red mark. Took it to the dealership. They said the temp sensor was bad. They replaced it but it still had the problem.
Now for the strange part. I started to drive it home and the RPM s were jumping up and down. I had to push hard on the brake at the first red light to keep the van from lurching forward. Most of the warning lights also flashed on and off. I started from the red light and the van jolted back and forth and I could barely excellerate. Barely got it back to the dealership. It's there now but they aren't even sure what the problem is.
Steve, Host
Does anyone know how you program the garage door opener remote button in the overhead console?
Also, can anyone tell me what the round button rocker switch (marked l and 0) at the bottom of the right hand side of the center radio/heater console is for?
Thanks
link
Lost manuals must be common to Grand Caravans :-)
Replacements are available - try a net search or check eBay. Dodge has them too (some models) for $10 US at Dodge.com in the owners section.
Steve, Host
I live in Atlanta so heat is the main thing that could impact battery life. Both batteries devloped some sort of internal fault and would not take any charging current. Is this a common problem with MOPAR batteries or does it have to do with the T&C's electrical system? Anybody ever had Chrysler reimburse them under the 60 month pro-rated battery warranty for purchasing a non-MOPAR battery when it left them standed?
1. Scratched on delivery (2 dealer visits to fix)
2. Windshield wiper fliud reservoir leaks
3. Antilock wheel sensor
4. Transmission problems- put in drive and take of then it acts like its in neutral, after a few seconds drops back into drive with a clunk ( 3 trips untill they replaced the front pump?, claimed a DC service bulletin covered the problem)
5. A/C - Replaced the Compressor (4 trips and counting) but if the car sits for a day or 2, when I first turn on the A/C, a loud Clunking sound is heard (not even close to being normal sounding). One time I was going about 10-15m/hr and turned the A/C on, the whole front of the van shuddered. This only happens the first time it is turned on, if I turn it off and then on again, everything works properly.
6. Power Steering Hose ruptures
7. Transmission is acting up again but only once and not as bad as before???
The van is NOT abused at all, maintenance performed by dealer, no towing. All the transmission and A/C problems only seem to show themselves after the van sits for a day or two. The van doesn't see that much use, it sometimes sits for 5 days without being used, this is when the last transmission slip occurred. Anybody have any thoughts about this, is this a canidate for the Lemon law??? In spite of all this I really do like the car but I'm starting think I should take the hit and get rid of it.
I had a major leak from a defective seal in the transmission. Cov. under warranty
New alternator and serpentine belt, 27,000 miles. (No Towing).
New Right tie-rod replaced. Cov. under warranty.
Heat vents were not calibrated correctly, and I still cannot get my left leg area to get warm even after driving 12 miles or so. Tough Luck for me I guess.
Roof Rack whistles constantly. Dealer cannot fix. Very annoying if the radio is not playing.
Front right Goodyear tire is thumping already.
I am completely unhappy with this van. I am currently shopping for a new vehicle, and I will be losing my but because the trade-in value is so low. Buyer Beware!!!!!
Then I drove my car in my garage and turned off the engine and started it again. Nothing happened again, except the same story (klak, lights went off and on like grazy, wipers moved up and down but slowly, the lights inside the car also went on and off, and my CD box changed CDs continuously but power windows did not work, nor the radio).
My neighbour said this has nothing to do w the battery.
Very weird.
Any views?
Steve, Host
It went in OK and seems to have quieted the intermittent chirping and clicking. The biggest problem was getting the serpentine belt back on all the pulleys, which took a while, but eventually worked out with a bit of patience.
It was nothing to do with conversion. Totally Dodge's problem.
I wish Honda Odyssey can be converted. I will switch right away.
Have you experienced similar problems? Any ideas on what is wrong?
Thanks!
kirstie_h
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Has anyone else experienced this, or have a fix?
Cost my about $150.00 in parts.
Thanks!
We bought our 2003 Grand Caravan Sport (with aftermarket power take off and DVD player) for $22,369 Canadian (approx 16,750 US) It had 21,800 Kilometers (about 13,000 miles)
We since have taken it on two long weekend trips, one with three people and one with six people aboard with no problems yet whatsoever.
We did take additional extended warranty. I did not want to do it. I have lost money on extended warranties on the last two vehicles I purchased extended warranties on (a 95 Sable and a 00 Focus) but my wife wanted to do it. After 31 years, I tend to do what she says.
Thanks!
Mistelle
I suggest you read back in all the Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country Edmunds discussions, then take a big aspirin as your head will be swimming!
Chrysler has had some minivan transmission problems in the past, but not as widespread as some would have you to believe and the newer ones I believe have rectified whatever problems there were in the past. By 1999, I think you will be getting a good one. Our 1996 has been fine, now at about 78K miles.
There are also about four different engines and maybe at least three different variations of transmissions in vans of that era. Very common is the 3.3 liter V-6 with 4 speed automatic. I would stay away from the 4 cylinder version as I think it is underpowered, not because of any particular known problem.
Otherwise, I would look for a low mileage one that has not been abused. You may be able to get maintenance records if the car was dealer serviced. You could also pay an independent mechanic to check it out before purchase. Good luck!