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Comments
I think your concern is spot on if you plan on servicing it at a Volvo dealer. If you have a reasonable private mechanic maybe that's ok.
I bought an 02 S80 T6 about a year ago for my teenage son to drive. I was principally concerned about safety and it has cost alot more than my Honda and Toyota for routine maintenance (which I always have done at a dealer). I took the Volvo in last week for a $65 oil change and walked out paying $374. My next service at 105,750 includes the timing belt and is priced at $1,400.
It is a beautiful car and fun to drive!!
Also, I believe 1999 was the first year so you may want to research that. I recall in my research not wanting to get an S80 1999 or 2000 because I believe there were posts about trans and electric issues.
Hope this helps and again, it's just MHO, but I think your concerns are valid.
Good luck.
Thanks for your very detailed response. (Bond indeed - is my age showing?) I do have a good mechanic. Volvo quoted me $1,200 for a timing belt and 2 mechanics quoted 400 and 500 respectively.
I also have detailed service records and they don't mention electrical issues.
Because of my business I have to drive something semi-respectible and a rust-dripping, exhaust belching junker just won't do.. I also only put about 5-6,000 miles on a car each year.
I'm really torn since I've never purchased a used car before. I really appreciate your feedback, Mr. Irish.
Thanks again
I have had two S80's since then and they are fine cars with cutting edge safety features for far less than a Mercedes or Beemer with similar features. But all expensive to maintain. My current vehicle is a 2007 V8 which I love. But I can afford the fuel and the maintenance.
If expensive maintenance is a problem you won't be happy. Otherwise you may love the car as I did.
My S80 displays SERVICE ENGINE REQUIRED light.
The light has been on and off for about 4 months.
Anyway, about 3 weeks ago another warning light came on- on the right panel- a little triangle that looks like a brake pedal.
My mechanic checked it and got a code that determined the O2 Sensor was needed. He replaced it.
2 days later the SERVICE ENGINE REQUIRED came back on.
The car shut off suddenly on saturday as I was coming to a stop.
It restarted immediately but I am nervous about driving it like this.
Actually, this is the 7th time the car has shut off while I am coming to a stop.
Does anyone know what may be the problem.
Thanks very much for any help.
Frank
As far as the triangle lite, mine does that in the winter, when my front tires spin. I think its a traction control sensor.
My mechanic says maybe fuel fiter but I think it is something beyond that.
His computer tester doesnt pick up any codes.
I may have to take this car to Volvo to get a diagnosis instead of guessing.
One more thing, could I get the Electronic Throttle Module or MAF sensor to buy online? Thanks.
My mechanic's computer doesnt show any codes for this Service Engine Req. red lite. So how would I know what is the problem. The thing is that this car shuts off when I am coming to a stop, did it twice this wknd.
Thanks.
Let the dealer fix the car.
There are no generic ETM's or MAF's for that car, so online won't help.
Plus, IIRC there is software necessary as well.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
30k isn't that involved for an S80. I'd get a breakdown of what exactly they are doing.
Is there some way I can check for the fan as the problem before taking to the dealer? Maybe unplug the fan and see if the noise stops? The fan turns freely by hand.
This guy is really good, he fixed a Turbo drain tube leak when no other local mechanics could. Volvo wanted $1800 to fix it. The guy charged me a couple hundred to do it.
I was driving last night, I made a right turn and the right signal flasher is stuck.
It doesnt come off. I stopped the car and retried it but same.
I tried moving it to get the left but nothing, so now only the right is on and it is on all the time. What could be the problem?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks.
I will do that and reply.
1. They are expensive to repair & maintain
2. They like to either blow bulbs or sockets like to loosen
3. When they run right they are one of the most comfortable cars at higher speeds
Now, when I bring it to the dealer it's an easy $1200 visit so I have learned to do simpler things myself. Recently I replaced the plugs in wires (and found out each plug has it's own coil) with top of the line wires and Bosh Platinum plugs. I has been running fine and actually increased my mileage to about 28 mpg on the hwy.
Last week I drove about 290 miles to my destination got in the next morning and started the car and in the information center it said "Low coolant, stop and check soon". That kind of freaked me out but it appears it was just a little low on coolant, I've checked it all week and it looks fine.
Now, the real reason for joining - BTW very cool site & forums! Today I was returning from lunch going back home (about 17 miles) and when I started my car first it didn't want to stay running then when it did stay running it would lurch - the tach would go from 1 at idle and drop to 2 lines jump and fall only at idle and my check engine light came on. Driving it was smooth this just occured at idle either in gear or out with or without the a/c on :mad: so I stopped at the only place open on Labor day, Advanced Auto who was kind enough to hook up their diagnostic machine and pulled 2 codes, I didn't write down the codes (I think 1 was 1598 the other might have been 0917 not sure)both fuel richness related. The guy said it could be a plug misfiring a bad wire or the egr valve might have a piece of carbon stuck in it. He cleared the codes and the car is running fine again (for the 1/8 of a mile ride home). I went looking on the internet for where it would be located and haven't found it and don't think it has one just a Mass Fuel Sensor could that be correct?
My next question: does anyone else have problem with front tires rubbing? I have new tires up front and they are to spec's so I'm not sure if my struts or shocks going bad.
I sure would appreciate and info you might be able to provide!!
Thanks
An indication of failing battery..eg. hard starts on a cold day or if you need to boost the battery even when the weather is good.
If the car is starting on the first turn, you battery is good to go.
I've been experiencing random electrical issues with my '99 S80-T6. First the dipped/low beams would not come on when I started the engine and then would come on within a few minutes of driving. Then they wouldn't come on at all. I even tried swapping the fuse indicated in the manual with a spare to no avail. Since it was raining at the time, I guessed that I had some sort of short that was exacerbated by the moisture in the air, but the same issue occurred days later when it was dry out.
Other random messages received are "Coolant Level Low" which also disappeared after a few minutes and then would appear intermittently. Most recent was a message indicating the failure of my position lights.
The frustrating thing about all of these errors is that they don't last and the time it would take to get the car to the dealer, they would disappear/correct themselves.
I did have my mechanic look for the issue at my last oil change and they said they didn't find anything. I am also concerned that my wire guides/casing in the engine compartment are rather corroded and crumbling at this point.
Any suggestions on what might be causing these random and intermittent issues?
Thanks.
The others are beyond my experience and knowledge.
Good luck with the rest. I have to add I love my current car.
horseygal
I pulled over and shut it off waited a few minutes and tried again and it was like nothing ever happened . Ran fine.
I was thinking maybe bad gas or clogged fuel injectors?? I was checking the web to look up this message to try to determine root cause
If you find out what caused this, I would sure like to know (or maybe its time for a trade in)
You should have your dealer look at the data.
The last Volvo I has was a 850R which aside from the low profile tires blowing out every 5,000 miles it was a very reliable car.
I'm coming from a BMW 528i that has had its share of problems. Stranded me on the road once and some smaller tire/electronic problems.
That said they are running incredible lease deals on the 5 series right now since they are redesigning it for next year. BMW makes the best handling cars in the world. I've own many cars and for a sedan it is an incredible car if you can put up with the quirks.
I just traded in my 2002 S80 for a 2009 C30 T5 and the warrantee covers everything except for gas and tires for 5 years 60,000 miles.
The one I bought was a loaner and had 4,000 miles but they took off $6000 off the price. This C30 is a fast, great handling little car that is really fun to drive.
My S80 had some problems in the past but covered with the warrantee This was my 2nd S80 and for the most part, both very reliable Gotta love a warrantee!!!
Also had a 1995 940 Turbo that had 175,000 miles and only replaced the radiator ... Volvo's run forever if you keep the oil changed....
Thanks all. Also, I would not mind somebody trying to knock some sense into me.
Any thoughts?
What size of tires were on before? You should replace with the exact size.
GLTA