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Comments
Better yet, wait for answers in the discussion and everyone can benefit.
Steve, Host
Thanks
How did you open the draincock? Did you turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise and then use your hand or a tool to pull it out? I prefer the draincock because the hose is so stiff. I tried but could not get it out. May I ask, how you pulled the hose out. Did you use some tool?
TP
Thanks Ray -- rcaluori@erols.com
I have a '01 Grand Caravan which has an intermittent problem with all the instrument gages (speedometer, tachometer, etc.) shutting off and then recovering. The warning/idiot lights are all on during the failure. All gages fail together and restore within about 1 second. As far as I can tell, no other systems are affected and the van continues to run well.
The failure happens most often when the headlights are on, though there is at least one instance of it happening with the headlight switch off. The area around the headlight switch gets warm (about 90 F) when the lights are on, though I never felt the switch before the problem began.
Here is what I have done so far:
1. Checked wiring diagram in Haynes manual. It looks like the "Instrument Panel Ground" could cause this failure if it were loose.
2. Disassembled the dash and removed the instrument cluster and headlight switch. I had expected to find some burning/melting, but everything looks good.
3. Internet research. This problem is described multiple times in Caravans from about '92-'02. So far no one has posted a definitive "here is how I fixed it" report, but suggestions point to: the Body Control Computer, Hazard Fuse, Weak Battery, and Grounding.
Here is what I plan to do based on what I have learned so far:
1. Reinstall the headlight switch and instrument cluster, and install a new battery. The battery has been terribly abused by the family (completely drained and jump started at least 5 times), and, though it continues to crank the starter, I don't trust the battery.
To reset the Body Control Computer, the recommendation has been to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. This step will take care of 2 possibilities.
2. I will check the Hazard Flasher fuse. I already looked in the fuse box and did not see any burned fuses, but I will look again.
3. If the problem persists I will try to find the Instrument Panel Ground and check its continuity.
I am writing now to see if anyone has additional insights into this problem. Also, if anyone knows the body attachment point of the Instrument Control Ground I would sure appreciate that information. I will post a resolution when I find it.
Thanks,
shadetree_bill
Any help for Ray?
Steve, Host
I am planning on pulling the unit at least partially out to make sure connections in the back are OK, and also want to check the connection to the antenna on the fender. A quick lookover this week and I could not see a way to get access to the antenna connection under the antenna in the fender. Any tricks anyone knows?
I know the above checks are likely to be a long shot, and I will have to probably go with an aftermarket stereo at this point, as repairing the old unit is probably not worth the cost.
Any comments from some who have been down this path before?
Thanks,
soccerhorse, "Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager" #2065, 14 Mar 2005 10:22 pm
Hopefully owners of other makes with dead window motors will find the post by using our search tools.
Steve, Host
Susan
My Husband and I have a 96 Plymouth grand voyager, sometimes when he is driving everything on the instrument panel goes out. He has to pound on it to get it working again! The van still runs but he just dosn't know how fast he is going etc.. Does anyone know what is causing this and how to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Laurie
My friend told me, the easiest way to change the oil is to loosen the lower hose from the transmission to the radiator, then turn the engine on and let it idle. Oil will come out. Stop the engine, after roughly 3 quarts have come out. Then reattach the hose and put in the new fluid.
Any comments and suggestions?
Thanks,
TP
Is this just a mechanical problem? Regulators sell for about $140. Does anybody know if it is an easy fix?
Just had the O2 sensor replaced for $400. Dealer prices are ridiculous in San Francisco. I am afraid to take my Chrysler's to the dealer again.
Thank you,
Do not use any other fluid from anywhere else!!!
You should also replace the filter. Since you have to drop the pan to get to the filter, I wouldn't "pump" the oil out. Granted you're only changing about 1/3 of the fluid by dropping the pan, but it's better than doing nothing.
Doug
Few days ago, I removed all but 4 crews (2 at each end of the longer side) which I just loosened by turning them 4 or 5 complete turns. But the oil did not come out. I used a screw driver to pry the pan out. Also to no avail. Is there a good way to get the pan out?
Thanks,
TP
I'm no mechanic so maybe someone else will see this post and give you a better response.
I dug into it this weekend and pulled the radio, and it appeared I had and intermittent connection between the antenna plug and the radio jack. After messing around with it a bit, bending the contacts in the jack and on the plug and sanding the surfaces of the antenna plug, I think I have it fixed it, but only time will tell.
I will definitely go aftermarket if the problem continues, but first I have to convince myself whether the problem is in the receiver or in the end of the antenna lead wire plug. I did check with the local Dodge dealer, and the price for a rebuilt OEM unit with a trade in of the old was $200, and this was for a non CD unit! I doubt if their radio business is booming!
I would check with your state government agency for any legal information, don't rely on what your dealer or Chrysler tells you. They do not write or enforce lemon laws, the state does.
Few days ago, I removed all but 4 crews (2 at each end of the longer side) which I just loosened by turning them 4 or 5 complete turns. But the oil did not come out. I used a screw driver to pry the pan out. Also to no avail. Is there a good way to get the pan out?"
Is there any type of gasket sealer holding the pan to the transmission? When I dropped the pan on my 90 Acclaim, once I began to loosen the bolts, fluid began to drip. I only had to put slightly pressure on the pan for it to completely pull away from the transmission. Are you saying you've pried on the pan with a screwdriver and it still won't come off? Have to be careful that you don't damage the area where the pan seals to the transmission - may cause leaks later. Did you perhaps miss a screw/bolt?
Doug
Replacing these should have no effect on the fuel system, however, unless somebody screwed a fuel line up while replacing your serpentine belt and pulleys.
Did someone inadvertantly disconnect or damage a fuel line?
Using the lower hose instead, once the lower hose clamp is removed then get the hose to rotate slightly with a channel lock pliers, then "lever" off with prying tools. You need a wide pan since the fluid will squirt a good deal. Roy