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Volvo S80

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Comments

  • ailsaailsa Member Posts: 2
    I had asked for pricing stories before I bought mine last weekend, but I only got one, so I'll try to comment on yours. On Sat. (in NJ) I closed the deal on a T6, (to be picked up Thurs.) (build date around March 1, 2000) with sunroof & leather, cold weather, credit for the 17 inch tires being replaced with the 16 inch (as I did NOT want low-profile tires ever again), no upgrade on stereo (I need the cassette for books on tape for my commute or I'll go batty), no homelink security system (no need, but I did get the traction control option (on the advice of someone I trust) for $38,200 + tax and license. That takes into consideration the $1500 for the loyal Volvo discount (this is my fourth) but an additional $1000 will be coming my way from the class action against Volvo for 94 and 95 850 tires (which was a total crock but I'll take the money.) When you say $1000 cash back plus $500, how does that work? Mine was just taken off of dealer invoice. I'm also having them re-program the remote for all doors to unlock at once. I asked for the daytime running lights to be turned off but they balked at that.

    Hope this helps!
  • teenteen Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 T6 with 3700 miles. The other day SRS Airbag alert came on. The service mgr cleared the message with his computer and told me the message may or may not return.

    Next day it returned. And occasionally (about every 5th start) all gauges go dead and no electronics work- no a/c, blower, computer, nothing.

    Dealership doesn't seem to know what is wrong and have taken 2 days to try to fix problem so far. Anyone with similar problem or ideas to help?
  • bs6408bs6408 Member Posts: 5
    I recall reading a post that said this was possible. Can anyone confirm this and what the total cost might be approx?

    Thanks and regards... Barry Sharp
  • eyedahoeyedaho Member Posts: 2
    Is there an easy way to attach a bike rack to the top of the S80?
    Thanks
  • shaunsshauns Member Posts: 24
    Yes! Buy the Volvo roof rack rails. Cost-about $140. They fit Thule bike mounts. If you look in the gutter just above the doors, you'll see 2 plastic covers on each side. These hide the mounting bosses for the roof rack towers.

    I was skeptical of this arrangement when I first got it, but it works wonderfully! Very quick on and off, and no interference with the doors, like normal universal aero mount towers.

    Useful addition-4 lock cores, 1 for each tower, available at any Thule dealer.

    Disadvantage - the rails have 1 meter of clear mount space, and don't extend beyond the towers. so forget about putting 6 bikes on top.


    But that's what you have the wagon for, no?

    SS
  • bs6408bs6408 Member Posts: 5
    Can any S80 owner tell me how vulnerable the headlights are to breakage from say a rock bouncing onto it during driving. My dealership is warning me that a headlight assembly replacement is around $400 and that installing a 1/8" thick clear mylar slab onto the headlight facing would be a good investment. I have a tendency to agree as they use this same technique for aircraft landing lights.

    The mylar treatment which is almost invisible to the untrained eye includes protecting the wheel arches and door edges with a much thinner mylar application. The dealer outsources the work to a trained technician and will cost about $300.

    What do others think about this investment?

    Thanks in advance and regards... Barry Sharp

    Any comment
  • jlfoxjlfox Member Posts: 14
    I am using IPDs stick-on headlight protectors on my S80. It's a DIY project. It's great and there was enough left over to do the fog lites. And they are just about invisible. Joel
  • ponghpongh Member Posts: 8
    it is available now, and definitely worth the money.
  • bs6408bs6408 Member Posts: 5
    Talked with Volvo service/parts people about cost of headlight assembly replacement -- they indicated cost of assembly is $300 and to actually replace/install it requires front bumper assembly to be removed etc. Labour time would be about 1.5 hrs. So $400 would be total cost incurred if headlight glass was to be broken by, say, a flying stone.

    The parts person did say however that requests for S80 headlights are few and far between. The ones he does get requests for are usually for S80s involved in collisions. He indicated that he gets about ten requests for the 70 series headlights each week and that they are far more prone to damage.

    The S80 headlight glass supposedly is thicker and stonger and because of their position do not suffer the same plight as the 70 series.

    Based on the $400 replacement cost I'm investing in the 1/8" thick mylar facing for my headlights.

    BTW the parts man said in general he gets very few requests for S80 part items to replace day-to-day wear and tear -- a good sign I think.

    One last thought before picking my car up tomorrow. As I'm opting to have the 4-CD built-in changer and surround sound I'd like to hear back on whether anyone has had CDs stuck in the unit, and if so how was it resolved?

    Thanks in advance and regards... Barry Sharp
  • broeuxbroeux Member Posts: 46
    Joint: We put a bra and mirror covers on our T6 to protect the paint from rock chips and juicy Louisiana love bugs. It never stays on the car longer than a week, as the car gets hand-washed at least weekly. It also comes off immediately if we get caught in a rain and then park the car. You never want to leave a wet bra on any car, as it can cloud the paint. (On a road trip, if you drive through and out of a shower, you could leave it on, as it should dry out, assuming your trip is long enough.) I keep a good wax job on the finish and spray with Pinnacle Crystal Spray Mist between washings. The bra has not harmed the paint at all. And it gives me some peace of mind that I'm protecting the finish. The protection is well worth the investment and the time to me.

    broeux
  • emachineemachine Member Posts: 17
    Broeux,

    How long did you wait to wax your car? Do you really have to wait 6 months? I am picking up my T6 at the end of July through the OSD. I plan on touring Sweden and Norway for 2 weeks. Do I have to constantly be worried about bird sh** for those 2 weeks and beyond?

    I've heard that the Nautic Blue paint is particularly suceptible to discoloration, so I would lke to wax the car ASAP.

    Thanks.
  • broeuxbroeux Member Posts: 46
    emachine, the great mystery of life with the S80 is when to wax! This issue has been debated here for months. As I've written before, when we picked up our nautic blue T6 in Sweden in November, the factory delivery center manager repeated what had been told to everyone else: "do not wax for six months." Back in the USA we read in the manual that it "may be beneficial to wax" periodically (or does it say frequently?). I emailed the manager with this discrepancy and he responded that he was mistaken, and it's OK to wax any time.

    My guess is that there has been some confusion as to waxing vs. polishing. Polish is much more abrasive and should not even be needed on new paint. I wouldn't polish in less than six months.

    As it turned out, after getting the car back home in late December, we had very mild weather for the next several months, and weekly washing and spraying with Maguiar's Quick Detailer and, eventually, Pinnacle Crystal Mist carnauba wax, kept the car looking so fine it just didn't need a full wax job. Finally, after about 5 months or so, I did do a Pinnacle Souveran wax job on it. The nautic blue is splendid with a good waxing.

    I have not noticed that the nautic blue is subject to discoloration at all. I just keep the car very clean, and I carry terry towels and Pinnacle spray in the trunk and clean off bird jazz and bugs about as soon as they hit. But I would do that with any car, not just out of fear of the fragility of the Volvo paint.

    Some early posters here stated they had paint discoloration from bird droppings, but no one recently has mentioned it, to my knowledge. Here in Louisiana, we have more to fear from "love bug" innards, which are very acidic and will eat right through the best paint on any car in fairly short order.

    On your tour of Sweden and Norway just have some water or, preferably, one of the sprays mentioned above and some rags handy to keep it cleaned up. The wax spray is extremely gentle and will put a slippery substance between a contaminant and the paint, preventing or minimizing and surface scratching, provided you soak it and then wipe gently, then turn the cloth and buff.

    Good luck and enjoy your trip. It should be a blast in that new Swedish road rocket. Just watch out for police in the bushes with radar guns (so I was told)! And the following tip is free: take along your own wash cloths, if you are accustomed to using them at home, because in Sweden, particularly outside of Göteborg, they DO NOT know what a wash cloth is. They don't even have a name for it, in Svenska or English. Some hotel rooms will have one, some none. And if you ask the front desk for one, they will not know what you want. They may know it as a "small towel." Or they may simply look at you like your an alien!

    broeux
  • pbrienpbrien Member Posts: 2
    I have to agree with Broeux, people are confusing polishing with waxing. Polishing is abrasive, waxing is not.

    I have had my Nautic Blue 2.9 just short of a year, and I waxed it the first weekend I owned it, other than a shopping cart ding the paint is in fine condition.

    In all the time I have read this forum or others I have yet to see a message from a distraught owner saying that they had waxed the paint off their car. Wax it in good health, if it ever needs polishing turn it over to the pros.
  • bs6408bs6408 Member Posts: 5
    Will be picking up my S80 T-6 tomorrow and plan to spend some time inspecting things such as quality, fit&finish, and component functionality. I plan a short test drive as well.

    Do others have any specific advice about inpsecting some items more than others.

    Thanks and regards... Barry Sharp
  • teenteen Member Posts: 2
    Is anyone aware of this tech note. Per this discussion board, I asked the service mgr for tech note 28-23, but when I picked up the car this is the one listed on the invoice.

    Anybody know the difference.
  • k8dmk8dm Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone else had problems with their cell phone or windshield wiper/washers interfering with their AM reception? I love everything about the upgraded stereo other than the AM reception. It has been a problem since the car arrived in the US. At the factory it seemed fine. They are trying to say it is due to the window tint but we had the problem before we had them tinted. Also the fan on the air conditioner stops working. It acts like a loose connection. They tried to track down the problem but needed the car longer than I could leave it at the time. The service department seem to think it might have something to do with the way Lo Jack was hooked up. Could that be the radio problem also I wonder? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Also, Broeux, what was the name of the cleaner you use on the Arrakis? The wheels are in desperate need of attention.

    I loaned my car to the owner of my company today. He is driving to Malibu to visit our newest acquisition and his car is in the shop. He was acting like a kid in a candy store. Maybe I'll get a promotion out of this!

    Thanks for any input.

    Kathy
  • broeuxbroeux Member Posts: 46
    Kathy, the cleaner I use on my wheels is "Elbow Grease." Sorry about that! Actually, I've tried several common household cleaners and wheel cleaners with about equal results. Since I wash the car at least once a week, the grime has never built up enough to put any of them to a really tough test. I wax the wheels occasionally, and that helps, but I still spray them with whatever cleaner I grab first, brush them with a good wheel brush, rinse and still always have at least a little bit of grime to wipe off. My wheel cleaning routine adds about 8-10 minutes to the wash job. I find that 409, especially their Commercial Strength cleaner, does a good job. Also sometimes use a citrus-based cleaner. Auto parts house promised that Westey's (or whatever it is) would work with just spraying and rinsing--liar, liar pants on fire! It works with the above routine, but I doubt the existence of a product that makes our cleaning of European brake dust as simple as "spray and rinse away."

    broeux
  • stevenmeyerstevenmeyer Member Posts: 4
    The cleaner that I have been using on my Arrakis wheels is P21s wheel cleaner, and then I apply a spray wax -- Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl. It is essentially "spray and rinse away"; I need only use a sponge to wipe away the brake dust. The entire process takes @ 10 minutes.

    Unfortuately, the local auto parts store does not carry these products. I must order them from the internet (Autopia).

    Steve
  • bluefeastbluefeast Member Posts: 1
    Looking to buy my first Volvo, the 2000 S80. Initially thought I'd have to get the T6 but test drove both the T6 and 2.9 and was pleasantly surprised with the latter's power.

    With the sunroof pkg, cold weather pkg, stability/traction control and 17" wheels, looks like invoice is roughly $36500 vs MSRP of $40200.

    Any good stories lately of what is considered a solid deal these days? (I have 5 dealers within 30 mins of my NJ home.)

    Many thanks.

    Greg
  • dfwt6dfwt6 Member Posts: 24
    1. Arakkis wheel cleaning: I am a(nother) user of P21s. Does a fine job. Yes, you still need elbow grease no matter what. [BROEUX: COMMERCIAL STRENGTH 409?!? From such a meticulous fine waxer? Yikes! What do you use it to wash your car?]

    Here's a link to Autopia for this and other "fine" cleaning products mentioned in this board: http://www.store.yahoo.com/autopia/index.html
    use the navigation menu on the left for areas you're maintaining to spotlight the specific products.

    2. AM reception: You've given only hints of what the actual problem is and the various culprits. Consider the following:
    (A) Metallic ("high performance") window films WILL interfere with AM reception. Antenna is on the rear window alongside the defroster; with this information I had non-metallic film put on my rear window and metallic films on the side windows so as to not interfere with AM (successfully). Also, new to the car is the 'warm weather' package which apparently includes infrared-deflecting (IR) films which have been reported to interfere with the navigation system. Don't know if your car has this feature and/or if IR film is mounted on rear so as to also interfere with AM reception.
    (B) Wiring system on this car has been compared to aircraft wiring. Cell phone installations (without any prewiring, anyway) need to be done by people experienced with these cars. You mentioned a LoJack installation, also, which I'm sure should have the same expert familiarity. I'm no auto electrician, but is it possible that the LoJack (which uses your cell phone, no?)/cellular power feed was tapped off an unshielded source circuit (winshield wipers? A/C fan? maybe tying to one loosened the other) which, without RF filtering, is generating RF and looping it back into the vehicle's ground, where AM tends to be most sensitive? Try elimination...have the LoJack and cellular phone disconnected (not just powered down, but power taps pulled) and see if the problems persist. Maybe have them reinstalled, either by the dealer if it was originally done at an aftermarket shop, or by ANOTHER dealer if dealer-performed. Read through posts here...your profile says you're in California, there's mention of several reputable dealers, maybe you can find one who will (re-)install these accessories.

    Anyway, good luck and happy driving.
  • woolston1woolston1 Member Posts: 3
    ok
  • k8dmk8dm Member Posts: 4
    We had LoJack added at the dealership before we ever took delivery. The reception has been poor ever since getting to the states. I think it must be related to the LoJack. It never occurred to me before, but when the other dealership mentioned the air conditioning problem could be because of that it got me thinking. hmmmmmm....

    Kathy
  • jazzertxjazzertx Member Posts: 2
    Hello to all...Two questions and two comments. 1) Do other T-6 owners abide by the recommended 91 or higher Octane rating? 2)Is there a source where one can find all of the service bulletins on the T-6? 3)

    Re: Waxing etc. I have used the "One Grand" products on both of my volvos. They are GREAT products. Our dark blue 850T has 144k miles on it and the cleaning and waxing products did an amazing job. Two of their better products are the glass cleaner (HIGHLY recommended) and the Blitz Wax. This is the first time I've paid so much attention to body maintenance. If you use the preparation and wax products properly, you will find that using the non-sudsing cleaner once a week or so enables you to maintain the wax finish. The last time I cleaned the 850, I only needed water to remove the road grime. The One Grand Blitz Wax is really good stuff and lasts for 3- 6 months per applicaiton.

    RE: 7,500 mile service. I paid $30. Why? I looked at the manual and realized that it included an oil and filter change. Having owned the 850T for six years, I am resolved to doing what's required, but not taking the Volvo Service guidelines to heart. These cars are designed to last. They should perform well with regular fluid and filter changes and completion of the major services, such as adjustments etc. I put 5,000 miles on the first five weeks of ownership. They won't see me at the dealershhip. I'll use the local Volvo Shop I've used since 1994 when I reach a major service inteval (E.g. 22,000 miles) To that end, I spoke with my mechanic about oil. In his 22 years of servicing Volvos he's NEVER rebuilt an engine as a result of lubrication failure linked to using "regular" oil. The Southwest Research Institute here in San Antonio tests oils extensively. None of the data supports the use of high end oils. As a result, I went with his recommendation of good old Quaker State 10W40. I do change it every 5000 miles, versus 7,500. And my car is running great.
  • too_redtoo_red Member Posts: 3
    Well we're in the game. On Saturday we take delivery of a 2000 Venetian Red/Taupe T6 with DSTC, Sun Roof/Leather & Cold Weather package. We got a great deal from a dealer in Pittsburgh: $800 under invoice. We got the last red one east of the Mississippi with that package combination (I listen to too much NPR for the good CD player) and had to pay to truck it the 400 miles from the other dealer. No way were we going to let some grease jockey hot rod those turbos for 400 miles.

    Over the weekend, we read the over 1800 messages on this board. The information was invaluable. THANKS everyone for your important contributions. We felt better armed to meet the evil forces of consumer ignorance that the dealers have relied on for so many years. We knew more about the car its options and mechanical issues than the sales folk did.

    The loyal owner program was too good to pass up. Since we keep all of our Volvos for 10 years, it was nice of VNA to eat some of the initial depreciation. We now have a big sister for our 1995 Regency Red 850 Turbo Wagon and its half brother our 1994 Electric Red Ford F250 Heavy Duty Pickup. [Yikes, we've accidently become a Ford Family....bite thy tongue wench!]

    Now all we need to know is the build date of our S80 so we can see if the rear headrests drop and if the infamous O-ring bushing fix is in place and if the other little niceties Volve keeps dropping are present or not.

    Our dealer service manager says that they use regular and NOT synthetic oil. That suits our pocket book just fine. Now if I could just find cheap hitest for the ponies......

    Anxiously awaiting Saturday...Gina
  • getgeniegetgenie Member Posts: 8
    I own a '00 2.9 purchased in NY. Since the warmer weather I have noticed on several occasions upon returning to my car that, while the car is parked and the engine off, the blower inside the car is on cooling off the interior! Is this a standard feature? Does anyone else experience this phenomenon? Secondly, my car also has the dreaded steering column thunk upon acceleration. Is there a bulletin out about this or a solution anyone can recommend? Thank you.
  • belairer1belairer1 Member Posts: 1
    I've been reading this site for months. It's great. I have a 00 T-6 and love it . It has only 3000 mi. but the engine makes a high pitched squeaking sound when accelerating from a stop. It sounds like a worn break pad warning sound, but softer. It is driving me nuts. The dealer tech heard it slightly on a test drive but said it wasn't a problem. I've had several turbos and it is not turbo whine. Anyone else ever experience this. Turning up the stereo is only a temporary fix. Anybody? Thank you.
  • jlfoxjlfox Member Posts: 14
    You are seeing the "afterblow" function which runs the blower for about 5 minutes, 50 minutes after turning off the car when the A/C has been running and certain other conditions are met. For the steering wheel clunk, the dealer should know how to fix this by now.
  • stevenmeyerstevenmeyer Member Posts: 4
    Jlfox. Thanks for the explanation. I also experienced this "phenomenon". Returning to my T6 after about 50 minutes, I found the interior blower running. I was concerned that it had been running for the entire 50 minutes. Several followup questions: why the 50 minute delay and what is the purpose of the afterblow function?

    Thanks
  • shaunsshauns Member Posts: 24
    One of the reasons that the A/C will autoblow is to remove any residual moisture in the system that could cause mildew. This is mentioned in the owner's manual.
  • gblock348gblock348 Member Posts: 5
    I am also shopping for a t-6 in the Pgh area. which dealer/salesmanager/sales agent were you able to close your t-6 with. Email me directly or leave a msg here if you could.

    Geoff
    gdb@med.pitt.edu
  • kaputkin1kaputkin1 Member Posts: 1
    i am considering a new s 80 2.9. many reviews claim that the car lacks a sporty feel, and may be sluggish.
    Any opinions out there?
  • shaunsshauns Member Posts: 24
    Relative to a 528 or an A-6, both S80s "lack a sporty feel". They're not designed to be sports sedans as much as luxury sedans with predictable handling.

    I have the 2.9. It's more than adequate for U.S. needs, and doesn't have the problems of the overpowered T6. The 2.9 is the largest engine that the S80 frame really works well with.

    On the other hand, the sports seats in the T6 are much more laterally supportive than the 2.9's. But the 2.9 has a softer ride and less road noise over rough pavement.

    SS
  • ji17ji17 Member Posts: 3
    My wife and I test drove the S80. I was very comfortable while driving the car. My wife however had a problem with the shoulder belt cutting into her neck. Regardless of how she positioned the seat, the shoulder belt cut her neck. Does anybody else have such a problem and if so how was it fixed? (If it was fixed!)
  • doctordick1doctordick1 Member Posts: 4
    Your description sounds suspiciously like the noise I had. I thought it was a belt slipping, but it turned out to be a bad belt tensioner. Replaced it and no more noise. Have them check this. And they told me it was a problem; could have destroyed belt if not repaired.

    Good luck! I love my machine. rld.
  • mmullenmmullen Member Posts: 17
    If I had to guess I would say that your wife is not going to let you buy such an expensive car. The unusual fact that she claimed the shoulder belt was "cutting into her neck" no matter how she positioned the seat represents a "pain in the neck" message which she is unconsciously sending you. Find a car that makes more sense financially and your wife will let you buy it.
  • mmullenmmullen Member Posts: 17
    During our 7500 mile service we had the opportunity to drive a 2000 2.9. The 2.9 seemed to have plenty of power for all normal driving. With two people and no luggage it actually felt quite peppy, especially so for such a large car. For passing maneuvers above 50 MPH the extra power of the T-6 would be welcome but many drivers never pass at these speeds.

    The difference that stood out the most to me was that the 2.9 had more engine noise during acceleration and was more likely to kick down to the next lowest gear than the T-6 with it's extra torque. Still, when the 2.9 kicked down the car did not hesitate to get up and go. In a way, the 2.9 gave the impression of sportiness because the engine would growl more and the transmission would kick-down while, under the same conditions the T-6 would remain very quiet and composed.

    Shauns, I didn't get the opportunity to drive the 2.9 on really rough roads but am curious what you attribute this statement to:

    "But the 2.9 has a softer ride and less road noise over rough pavement."

    Do you feel there is less road noise on rough pavement due to a softer suspension?

    I have heard the 2.9 has a softer suspension but I do not recall that impression during my drives. If anything, my 2000 T-6 gave the impression of being quieter and having a smoother ride (at least on normal roads).

    MMullen
  • ji17ji17 Member Posts: 3
    Somebody I know has a 13 month old S80 T6. Recently (on 3 occasions) their battery died after being parked with the engine off. On all three occasions the valet key was in the ignition. Two times the car was in a parking garage. Once at a mechanic for a state inspection. After using the car and taking the key (non-valet key) out of the ignition the next time the car is used there is no problem. The car starts.

    Anybody hear of such a problem?
  • ji17ji17 Member Posts: 3
    It's not my wife. The salesman at a dealership told me that his wife has the same problem. She sewed a fur wrap around the belt where it cuts her neck to solve her problem. He also said that others have this problem. Volvo is supposedly aware of the problem.
  • keithpakeithpa Member Posts: 17
    I went to Sweden last week to pick up my t-6 with the OSD program. It was an very enjoyable trip (except for some airline problems).

    We went to the Volvo museum and on the factory tour. Both were enjoyable but I particularly enjoyed the factory tour (english speaking tour at 1:00 pm).

    While on the tour they mentioned the top speed of the S40-T4 so I asked about the S80-T6. I was told that there is a "Gentlemans Agreement" among auto manufacturers (he mentioned Audi, BMW, and Mercedes) to regulate the top speed of the cars to 150 mph (not that I plan on testing the 150 mph).

    They told me that the deliver date would be August 1, because I got a 2001 model.

    For those of using the OSD program, make sure before you go that you call the factory deliver center and they will arrange for a taxi to take you from the airport to the hotel and later from the hotel to the factory deliver center.

    The weather was beautiful, about 78 F with low humidity. Many restaurants have outdoor dining this time of year. The public transportation is very good in Goteburg and I recommend buying the Goteburg card which includes use of the public transportation and free entry to several museums. I also recommend you take the Padden boat tour.

    New for 2001, they added to the seat position memory the side view mirror position and the leather seat/sunroof option was now standard.
  • emachineemachine Member Posts: 17
    Keithpa,

    I am so jealous! I can't wait to pick up my T6 in Sweden on July 31.

    Where did Volvo put you up and how was it? What was bad about the flight? I am on SAS and have horrible layovers. Just curious.

    Thanks for the tips.

    Paul
  • dolamitedolamite Member Posts: 8
    Is the standard sunroof and leather rolled up into the overall price or is the car indeed less expensive for 2001?

    Any other information available?
  • speck5speck5 Member Posts: 1
    I am going to purchase a new vehicle this week and have narrowed it down to two cars, the Acura CL (Naples Gold/Parchment) or pre-owned (11,000 miles) Volvo S80. I've got the same bottom line price for both. My dilemma? A 1999 vs a 2001, a pre-owned vs. new, a coupe vs. a sedan, a luxury vs. near-luxury car. Any thoughts? I currenlty own a '93 850 with 112,000 and lots of repairs.
  • dfwt6dfwt6 Member Posts: 24
    If you've read through the posts on this board you know that S80's built before 1/2000 were/are prone to transmission and O-ring problems. If these were fixed, your long-term ownership experience should be a good one.

    If you're financing, your APR will be higher on the used car, and no incentives will be available. (Volvo's running some loyalty and year-end incentives right now, you may want to double-check what it would take to get you into a new one...)

    I've always preferred a new car from the maintenance standpoint, setting aside any major failures (get an extended warranty), but at 11,000 miles the differences are so great (a la new tires, ever-increasingly-expensive service intervals, and that new-car smell versus what-in-the-hell-died-under-the-seats smell).

    Enough mall parking garage in-and-outs will remind you why not to buy a coupe.

    Good luck!
  • mkrichmkrich Member Posts: 8
    re # 103: I assume you're talking about a 2.9. I own a 2000 S80 2.9 (7500 miles, 11 months) and when the new CL came out I test drove one just for grins. I actually tested the TL first then a Type S when one became available. My impressions follow:
    2 very different cars, and it really depends on what you're looking for. The performance difference was less than I expected. The CL is quicker off the line but so was the TL, and those two didn't seem all that different, both of which I think are bested by the T6. In terms of ride, both were very nice rides over all pavements, CL was tighter but stiffer, the S80 was smoother overall. Ergonomics was the biggest difference in my mind, and the S80 won that category big. I liked the S80's layout the first time I saw it, and instantly did not like the CL's. Climate controls, radio, cruise control, tach and speedometers all make sense in the S80, both in terms of how they work and where they are, not so in the CL (for me). Plastics seemed very cheap.
    I went in preparing to be wowed by the performance of the CL. I didn't seriously expect to trade as I would have gotten killed by the initial depreciation, but I came out completely underwhelmed and even happier with my car.
    As far as reliability, I had the bushing problem, fixed @ ~3000 miles with no recurrence, other than that the only issue was with the technician improperly completing the bushing fix and that led to another couple of false problems which were fixed at the next visit when they properly completed the fix.
  • broeuxbroeux Member Posts: 46
    dfwt6, I think the transmission problems were present in cars built before 1/99, not 1/00; and I'm not certain "prone to" is very accurate, though I have no statistics on it--there were reportedly a number of transmission failures in the early build cars, but I don't think it was the majority of cars. I'm not aware of any significant problems with transmissions in cars built after the initial problem was discovered. As for the subframe bushings, this did persist in 2000 models, but I believe--correct me someone if I'm wrong--the incidence of this was reduced, too. Our 2000 T6, built 10/99, has not had the bushing problem, or any of the other clunks, thunks or squeaks reported by some.
  • broeuxbroeux Member Posts: 46
    My wife and I, celebrating our anniversary, traveled down to The Big Easy this weekend. Since returning from our tour of Sweden we haven't been able to get the full benefit of our navigation system except on occasional trips to New Orleans. But what a joy it is to be able to hop all over town, NEVER looking at a map, and go point to point, turn for turn with complete confidence. If you've ever driven much in the Crescent City, especially at night, you know how challenging it can be to see the tiny street signs and negotiate the turns and twists without getting off-course. We did encounter one error in the guiding, when it directed us to turn left at an intersection where left turns are prohibited. It was easy to go a quarter of a block beyond the intersection and loop back around to return to the course, even before the nav system figured out we had not followed its directions! I will be notifying Navigation Technologies of the correction needed in the mapping. Now we await completion of mapping for our area, targeted for 1/01.

    Broeux
  • bucky1bucky1 Member Posts: 20
    I have got to be one of the luckiest Volvo S80 2.9 owners who reads and writes to this board. I bought the very first S80 my dealer received in October of 1998. Needless to say, I paid too much for my passion to be the first one in town to have this car. But at 18,750 miles, I still have the original transmission, the original battery, the original bushings, the original tires, and even the original new car smell (i.e. leather), and I have never had a problem with any of these components. My AM radio reception is awful, but everything else works the way it was intended and this is the best Volvo (my fourth) that I have ever owned. This car gets my "two thumbs up" despite all of the negativity I keep reading from the few unhappy people who cannot accept that, in spite of its upper $30K price, this is a complex piece of machinery, and machinery (unlike some humans) is not perfect. Do not assume that all early S80's had built-in mechanical problems...it just ain't true.
  • clsweeclswee Member Posts: 1
    Keith:
    Do I understand correctly that you picked up a 2001 S80 T6 in Sweden in early July? I was told that 2001 S80s would not be available that early. Thanks.
  • shaunsshauns Member Posts: 24
    My comments on road noise and ride were based on test driving the same patch of rough, studded tire rutted road that is common out here. Almost all cars with the exception of the Lexus and the BMWs fail the road isolation test on this surface, with M-B and Audi even resonating in the 30-50 MPH range.

    Road noise amplitude and spectrum were directly related to the size and brand of tires used. Short sidewall, large wheel diameter tires were worse.

    On the 2.9/T-6 comparisons, the T-6 had perceptibly louder road noise than the 2.9, and a rougher ride. The S80 is not particularly good at road noise isolation, averaging in the low 70dBC range at 70MPh against mid-sixties for its competition. My measurements of my 2.9 show that with the standard 16" 55-series tires and wheels, about 70-72dBC is typical, with 75dBC obtained on my rough road. The T-6 was about the same on smooth road, with about 78-80dBC on the rough road.
  • anuthjanuthj Member Posts: 5
    My 1999 S80 T6 just went into the shop for replacement of a tie rod joint that was in the process of failing. It manifested itself as a nasty front end shimmy, but oddly, no vibration transmission was felt thru the steering wheel.

    The car has almost 26,000 miles on it, but I've driven other cars into the ground without ever having a tie rod go. Obviously, I'm concerned because had the thing let go on the road at speed, I could be shy one of my front wheel assemblies.

    Has anyone else had a similar experience?

    - Jim
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