Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Kind thanks to this board for all the assistance. I saved at least $100 buying brake parts through AH motorsports. And the suggestion for using true honda tranny fluid has helped my hard shifting diminish greatly. I opted for OEM rotors and pads. Although someone commented that they hate to see people throw parts at a potential problem (my shimmy at 65mph) I had to get those CarX rotors out of there. But - thanks to that same person we investigated further and found a worn tie rod on the right side. Worn tie rods are common because the road is ruttier on the curb side of the street (per the dealer). I was also surprised to learn that my engine has self-adjusting hydraulic valves. Boy, my old civic and prelude needed valve adjustments all the time. Anyway...
Here is what I got:
Tranny Flush
New Rotors/Pads in Front.
replaced outer tie rod end.
Rotate and balance tires (I can't believe they charge you for the little weights!)
Computer Alignment
Timing Belt, waterpump, and other drive belts
Coolant flush
Car washed and Integra loaner car=free
Told the dealer I'd see him in a couple of years...
Thanks again to this great board!
I have another car I can drive; should I avoid driving the Legend until it gets evaluated & repaired?
Thanks in advance.
Hank
PS. I am a big fan of the Legend!
Any advice on whether to have a remote lock/unlock (with alarm?) installed in my car? How reliable are they (any brand recommendations?), and what's the risk of a [good] installer destroying the electrical harness?
Thanks in advance for any insight.
to tell you what gear your in is out and to replace, you have to do some major disassembly. Brakes are suspect on this year. And last but not least I have replaced everything that has to do with the windshield washers except the pump (as it seems to pump fine) but cannot get my
washers to spray without eventually getting clogged. If anyone else has had this problem and resolved it, please let me know! Other than these problems, this car is very reliable and a pleasure to drive.
I have a 93 legend coupe and I installed the factory fog light after I got the car... (not myself, went to a shop, but watch them do the whole job...) if I remember correctly, they have to take out the outer bumper piece to reach/install the fog light... that means for you to change the bulb, you'll also have to unscrew about 8 screws and take out that bumper piece....
well.... I'm not very handy at cars.... so, I might be wrong.... just want to tell the 2 cents I know....
Thanks for the info. I figured it would involve removing the lower bumper piece but I was in hopes there was another easier way. As old as I am I should know by now nothing is easy.
Plus, the car also needs new tires. I'm looking at spending over $3000. The car is paid off, but is it worth spending for this repair? Advice?
Thanks.
-ABS light comes on and stays on. No ABS function. My mechanic said to disconnect the (+)battery lead and reconnect for a quick fix reset. Most of the time the circuit will reset and the AS is restored.
-Automatic door locks: With the doors locked the key will not turn to unlock the drivers door(as though it is jammed). You have to QUICKLY unlock
the passenger door and QUICKLY open the door otherwise the door will re lock itself. If you are able to open the passenger door and climb into the driver seat you can not exit via the driver's door(which is still locked). I am guessing that the problem is in the computer and I need feedback as to what is needed for the repair. Thanks.
I am in the market for a 1994 preferably a 1995 Legend Coupe Black Or White Fully Loded Automatic with low miles. Can anyone Help me I am aware this is most likely the rarest Acura out there but I would really like One , I have a 1989 Legend Coupe Bright Red only 75,000 miles love the car but I really want one of these Legends if anyone can help me please post thank you all so much !
Paul
Considering for purchase a 93 VigorGS or 91-92 Legend LS - Both within a kilobuck of each other, both ca. 100-120K.
Test drove the Vigor and quickly found the lacking rear seat room. 4" less than the legend (that on-axis 5cyl really pushes things back compared to the transverse mounted 4cyl in the 90-93 accord body the vigor is based on..
Anyway:
1) Does anyone have any bad comments re: the AT in the Vig? must be rather unique (for honda/Acura) to transmit the on axis 5cyl to FWD? Also noted no "sport mode" options - they must figure the vigor is already sports car - no need for two modes?
2) On all the Legends I've looked at - there were labels with the VIN# on the edges of all the original doors, trunklid, hood, etc. Couldn't find any on this particular Vigor. Car looked cherry and carfax had no indication of a total loss/rebuild. Do all Honda/Acuras have these little labels??
The rattle in the engine is when idling? Could be a loose exhaust or catalytic convertor heat shield. It was on mine - fix is clamping it down for $50 or new heat shield.
Yes, do get a 2nd opinion. They could be right but I'm just giving you the more common problems.
No problems so far except for air conditioning doesn't work, a little crack on the windshield by the passenger side and some rust above the rear fenders that was repainted (not too well). The bose has been replaced by some aftermarket detachable-face system(clarion) and i don't think there's a car alarm. And no owner's manual. That's really about it. Checked out the carfax report for $15. Completely clean title, but i don't have any of the maintenance records. Under the hood, engine compartment "looks" good and clean. Overall a very nice car that runs great.
Questions: i would really like to know where i can get an owner's manual (is an Acura dealer the only place?). i'm not sure how to use everything in the car yet (various instrumentation; i could have broken the ashtray trying to pull it open instead of pushing it ), as well as what proper maintenance is required at specific mileage. At 178,000 miles, i'm pretty sure the original timing belt and water pump have been replaced. When should i expect to change the timing belt again (can i just get it checked or is there really no way of determining when the belt's going to break?) and what other major repairs/maintenance is coming my way. Is it unreasonable to expect 30-50,000 relatively trouble-free miles in the next 3-4 years? Or am i going to be looking at spending about $2000+ a year on maintenance/repairs. There's no weird noises, shifts, chatterings, grinds, smells, phantom lights(well, the parking brake light came on for a split second during a turn), etc. It "seems" almost perfect, so far anyway (just got it yesterday).
wow, didn't mean to write a book. any answers to just any of my numerous questions would be greatly appreciated. The legend has been a dream car of mine for quite a while now, and i still can't believe i have one. First things first, i'm going to get a much overdue oil change (any recommendations on what type of oil works best? it hasn't had an oil change since last November over 5,000 miles and six months ago), and then get it detailed (a little dusty inside and out). Anyone know what kind of wax works best? Then maybe later, i'll get the rims refinished (they really do look their 10-11 years) and then clear out the corners...did i say $2000+ a year? Really, thanks in advance.
Other small things are starting to happen, like the memory seat not wanting to go all the way to the memory position, so i have to press it over and over. But when it does decide to go all the way it beeps about 20 times when it is finished, instead of the normal 2 times. The steering wheel radio controls sometimes switch functions on me, like the vol up button would change the station. Are these common things? Does anyone know what it would cost, and what it would take to get them fixed? Are there any other things that i sould be expecting to happen? It anybody knows, pls message so i can find out. Thanks, Alex
Is it true they are redoing the RL for 2002 and maybe bringing back the Legend Name ? If anyone has any info Please post !
Paul
You've got to remember - almost any 10 year old car will give you some problems.
The easiest way to find out about common problems on the car is to visit the alldata.com web site and look for the section dealing with recalls and technical service bulletins (TSBs). Sometimes you can get Acura to "goodwill" a repair, or they will replace a part if you pay for the labor.
Be sure to have the brake system checked, including the master cylinder and the ABS modulator; these seem to have trouble on the Acura's -replaced mine twice! Flush the brake system every 15k miles for good measure to prevent contamination.
The power door locks can be buggy at times. A common problem as someone else noted.
Good luck.
5W-30 oil is the recommended oil for Acura's, especially in the mid- west with cold winter starts. I buy the best I can get, like Valvoline or Castrol. Mobil 1 is excellent in the winter. Always buy extra Acura oil filters to keep in the trunk and use them if you get oil changes at Jiffy Lube or other quicky-lube joints. Never use their crappy no-name brand filters.
If the car needs tires I highly recommend the Yokohama AS dB (see the Tirerack.com website for more info) I just bought some a month ago and they are super. Good price and great, quiet ride with nice responsive handling in all but heavy snow country.
The car is very reliable -- but little things go bad like the power windows.
Some weak points:
I have had to put 2 new brake master cylinders in the car, and the ABS system has a habit of seeping, so keep on eye on this. Excellent preventative maintenance would be to have the brake system drained, cleaned and refilled every 15-20,000 miles.
With good maintenance you could get 250,000 - 300,000 miles on this car. Just change that oil regularly and and change your anti-freeze every two years. Also keep an eye on the transmission oil (check while engine is running). Needs to be changed every 15,000 miles. JiffyLube has a trans purge service which I think better than the usual dump and refill service you get elsewhere. I think my car ran better afterward.
Good luck.
I doubt highly that you have a bad transmission. I have over 100,000 miles on my '91 Legend and the trans is still fine. Maybe not as good as the day I bought it but good enough and no repairs needed.
If you want to focus on the tranny, go and get the auto trans purge service at JiffyLube and see if it doesn't run better ($75). Mine did.
1. 1992 LS, 128000 miles, $8K.
2. 1994 GS, 65000 miles, $15K.
Both are very clean, well maintained by the owner.
Which one will you buy and why? Thanks.
Besides the obvious (newer car/fewer miles), it has the Type II engine good for 230 HP (as opposed to the LS's 200), some interior improvements (more gadgets ), larger wheels (16" vs 15") and more...
People say Legend can last for a long time and 200K miles should be no problem if maintained properly. Should I take advantage the reliability and save the money for other toys?
Catherine Heins is looking for people to interview who have switched from American to Japanese cars in the past few years-- especially folks who wouldn't have given a Toyota or Honda the time of day in the 1970s.
She's a business reporter at the Yomiuri Shimbun, which is the biggest daily paper in Japan with a circulation of 14 million. They are writing a feature story about Japanese automakers' continuing success in expanding production in the U.S. and snatching market share from the Big Three even on their former home turf of light trucks.
If you fit this description and are willing to be interviewed, please call her directly at 212-582-5827 or e-mail her at catheins@yahoo.com. As always, you can contact me at jfallon@edmunds.com if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
Seriously though... I think $8K for the '92 (with this many miles) is little too much.
I would be willing to let mine go for ~$5500.
As far as reliability goes, these cars will easily run past 200K.
As a matter of fact, someone spotted a '91 Legend used as a taxi (in Chicago). Guess what the miles were...??? Over 400K - on original engine/transmission!!!
In case you haven't found this site - check out:
forums.legend.org.
The best legend forum on the net!
Regarding that '95 w/ 110K for $11,500 - I still think the GS would be a better buy. If you put average miles on your car, with that GS it would take you 4-5 years to get to 110K... All for a "mere" $3K (which would be a normal yearly depreciation on a car like that).
Besides, GS is more sought after than L (because of the engine).
The GS does cost more to insure...
The car is fast and stable at 70~80 mph. Now, not many cars can push me around.
Just sold my Toyota mommy-van, and bought a 94Legend L. 113k, paid 10k. The power locks on both of the back doors are not operable. Has anyone fixed this and what was your cost? Other than that she is in grt shape/all maint. records from the beg. Reliability ratings are awesome on this car, so why is it she sort of has a rep for being finicky?
Let me know! I just love her.
cristie1
The car has very good reliability, but it's not perfect! Most likely it will never leave you stranded due to some catastrophic failure, but there are quite a few "little" annoyances about it.
In case of my '91, I just noticed the radiator's top is cracked and needs replacement. No biggie - $114 for the radiator (from eBay, sold by radiator.com) and I will either replace it by myself (time pending) or my mechanic will do it for $50... Same goes for things like power window switch (changed mine), CV boot(s) (changed mine), transmission mounts, wheel speed sensor(s) (too lazy to change in my car )...
to a previous post about radiator leaks... I have $0.02 cents of experiences and would like to share...
I also have it before, the radiator leaks near where the cap is. My mechanic (who used to work in Acura dealer) told me because it is some kind of plastic (or plastic like material), it tends to crack and leak like that once its old (mine is 93 legend coupe and I replaced it about 2 yrs ago). He said if you replace it with an original Acura one again, it'll happen again around the same age. He recommended replacing with a metal one and he said it'll not happen again. Well, its only been 2 yrs, but so far, so good...
:-)
and yes.... when I first bought my 93 legend coupe and when I park, people would say "nice car!"... and I have got notes stuck on my windshield leaving me a number if I want to sell, call them, and funniest thing is my mom never understand why the legend would get compliements like that and she wouldn't when she's driving her brand new Volvo... haaa haaa haaa.....
(well.... not that Volvo is not good.... but just not as eye catching as a Legend Coupe....)
:-)
BTW, my Legend does not have the trunk CD changer installed. A local Acura dealership is asking ~$500 for an Acura 6-disk CD changer. Can I get an OEM one for say ~$300?
Sorry... I think there's some mis-understanding... I mean the my radiator was leaking before near the cap (on the top of the radiator)... so, when car is cold, it won't leak, but after it warmed up on a hot day, the coolent boiled and it will start a slow leak...
I didn't just replace the cap, but I replaced the whole radiator. The original Acura radiator's material is like some kind of plastic... My mechanic told me not to install that and replaced mine with a metal one. that metal radiator is not from Acura.