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Comments
I decided to only do the plugs and not the wires because they seem to be in great shape. I changed the plugs. They were in awkward locations, but after playing "Tetris" with the limited tools I had, I got them all out and replaced them.
But the check engine light is still on. Earlier, AutoZone ran a test and it pointed out a "cylinder misfire" which resulted from the plugs. I guess I'll take it back to Autozone to have them run the diagnostic again.
Feel free to reply with some tips or whatnot you think would be beneficial for me. Thanks!
In most cases, not all, I think you'll find that where ever the rotor comes from the casting is OEM. The reason is cost. It's cheaper for the aftermarket manufacturer to buy blanks from the OEM and then finish the rotor as opposed to designing a new casting and molding. If you go to the Brembo site they tell you that they "...start with a factory blank."
Yes, the OEMs will cast identifiers for aftermarket outlets. I would bet this is what NAPA does.
Nice pictures, by the way.
Good luck,
Dusty
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
You may want to check that the electrical wires from the cylinder to the computer that the computer has identified that misfires are in good order. My daughter's escort had a problem with the fuel pressure sensor and everyone told me to replace the sensor. I was not sure because the car was running fine. I did all kinds of tests only later to find out that the problem was a wire that feeds the computer with the pressure signal being cut.
Another thing. Have you checked out the plug wires. Granted that they looked good. But that could be deceiving. A bad wire can be located by turning the engine on at night. If you see some arc along a wire, he wire is bad.
i checked the wires out at night and saw nothing that would lead me to suspect that the wires are bad. the van is driving much better now.
I’m living in Sweden and I’m an owner of a Chrysler Grand Voyager LES, 2000 (3,3 litre v6, automatic) on its 110 kmiles. I’m having problem with vibration in the speed range of 45-55 miles per hour. The vibration is rather heavy, in a low frequent (approximately 5 Hz) and appears only when accelerating. My conclusion is that it comes somewhere from the transmission. Is there anybody out there that has a clue what is causing this vibration? If so please tell me what this might be and the approximate cost would be to repair it.
Regards
2. Worn CV joints. (check boots, grease, free play)
3. Worn ball joints and/or tie-rod ends. (thorough front end inspection)
Any help would be apreciated.
Cumilyeon
Cumilyeon
intermittent torque converter lock up at idle in gear..causes lurch forward and stall, shop is unable to duplicate problem, seems to happen when cold outside and first started, no codes were found during scan {van has an overdrive lockout button on dash]
Thanks, Ed in Toronto
I compared the OEM and aftermarket tensioners carefully. All the dimensions are spot on correct when you are holding both outside the car. However there is one big difference: The OEM part has the tensioner spring lie flat against the bracket, while on the aftermarket part, the spring is enclosed, and only the stud keeps the tensoner flat once you put on the belt. That, I think, is the reason, the aluminum casing warps just a little, causing the misalignment.
There is a new OEM part where the roller pulley is made of plastic. I am not too keen on this change, but that is one I have on my vehicle now, and so far, so good.
Anyway, a question for the forum experts please. In reading this transmission forum, it is somewhat apparent that a DIY transmission oil change might not be prudent. I have the repair manual and it really doesn’t mention this loss of prime and control unit reset issue.
Since I do as much of my own service as possible I had thought this oil change would be a piece of cake. What exactly are these issues and what specifically will this loss of prime do if you just drive it “carefully (?)” and let the transmission “adapt”? Also, is the DC reset routine built entirely into the tool or do they also get new flash via their intranet hook-up. Does anyone sell a reset tool?
Waiting to get down and dirty with transmission oil,
BobCat
Thanks very much for your reply. I happended to have changed the fuel cap on my 2001 Town & Country minivan, had the light reset, but I continue to get the light after a few days. Any other ideas?
Thanks.
soc2661
Car runs and drives great and has caused no probs until 2 weeks ago. Then,
the front wipers came on at random times all by themselves, with the switch in
the OFF position! Had the local Dodge garage look it over and they replaced
the switch. No help there. Then they replaced the wiper motor and it took 2
weeks to get the new motor. Motor was noisy and did not solve IWP. Replaced
motor again but somehow it did not take 2 weeks to get 2nd wiper motor. 2nd
motor is quiet but did not solve IWP. Finally, we got it to act up when the
mechanics could hook a diagnostic computer to it... bingo... bad computer.
Why the wipers have to be controlled by a $500 computer instead of a
separate $3 circuit totally escapes me but that is what we have. Will replace
this week with a new factory computer. Hope that this FINALLY cures this
issue. Other than this, the van has been a real gem. Personally, I think that
this is a sign of over-engineering and making the system more complicated
than it really needs to be and more than it should be for best reliability. Perhaps
with a new computer on board, we can go another 100k with it. Yeah, I know...
dream on... :-)
Ed
Wouldn't it still have shown bad computer?
Battries in the remote? Yikes, I literally just bought (like 20 minutes ago) new batteries to replace the originals for both of the remotes for our 1998, just before reading this post. I wonder how your's could be so warn out in such a short period of time.
Best Regards,
Shipo
thank you,
JoJo40
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I cannot believe your dealer is unaware of the fix for this, as it has been a very common issue and one they should have encountered and fixed many times by now.
Thanks for the heads up. I had my minivan serviced at this dealer many times for warranty and out of warranty work and always left very disappointed with their level of customer service. I wouldn't be surprised if they knew about this problem and just "claimed ignorance" perhaps because this was a "low return" type of work for them, specially since it was under warranty, and they already had plenty of cars to service (you gotta service those lemons).
Another problem that has persisted even after several trips to the dealer is the driver's side wind noise. The dealer changed the inside rubber that goes around the door probably three or four times (always under warranty) but the noise never went away. They even sent it to their body shop people to see if the door was bent or something, but to no avail. At the end, they just threw their hands and couldn't figure out what was wrong. That was about the time my warranty expired. When I contacted Dodge's national customer service, they told me that because my warranty had expired, there was nothing else they could do about this.
Needless to say, I'm never buying another Dodge or DC product again. I think DC is coming out with some products that from a design and styling standpoint look appealing, but based on my past experience with my Caravan cannot trust their reliability.
I had the exact problem with my 2001 Caravan. The fan would work only on the highest setting. The problem was with the fan resistor. The part cost $18Cdn and is located behind the glove compartment. Instructions on how to replace the resistor:
1-Open the glove box and squeeze both left and right sides so that you may get the box side stopper beyond the opening of the dash panel.
2-This will allow the box to open further and allow you access to the resistor.
3-Unplug the electrical connector from the resistor.
4-Unscrew the two screws holding the resistor.
If your new resistor didn't include a new gasket, carefully pull the old gasket from the old resistor and install it on the new resistor.
5-Installation is the reverse of steps 4 to 1.
Thanks
Thanks
Current problem: Intermitantly, when engine is warm (at least 5 miles driven), engine stutters, and may quit, but may recover after stuttering for 5-15 seconds and run fine for another 5 minutes or 2 days. Some days no problem at all. No engine trouble codes are generated. Except for tach jumping, I see no other symptoms. (all lights maintain brightness, etc.) With 2 exceptions, I can cure problem by turning ignition off and restarting engine. Problem may occur when at stop light, or on interstate at 70 MPH. When acting up, I have verified fuel pressure at 50PSI, so not a fuel pump problem. I have used an inline spark tester, and problem corresponds to erratic spark. I have replaced plugs & wires with new, and TPS, Idle air controller, coil, wiring harness, and computer with others from junk yard, with no change. I have had it to a service shop, where OBD computer was hooked up within 10 minutes of it just about not restarting (2 exceptions above) and nothing looked out of specs and it ran 45 minutes without a hic-cup.
Problem is similar to that of shelleybabee from Oct 27, 2003, but I do not see the resolution to that post.
Any input would be appreciated.
I would guess it's one of those two. Start with the crankshaft. It's not uncommon for them to go bad on Chrysler's.
I replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and will see what happens there. I have not (yet?) replaced crank position sensor. In reading the service book, the cam position sensor seemed to control spark more so than crank sensor.
I had a previous problem (unrelated to this one) where it was hard to start, but once running, did fine. I found a trouble code that the temperature sensor was bad, and replaced that, and the hard start problem was gone. I suspect maybe similar situation here, where a seemingly unrelated component is going bad, and causes the computer to give a weak or no signal to the coil bank and cause stuttering. But I am guessing.
Thanks for input.
Any way to contact shelleybabee from older post, and find her(?) resolution?
What and where is the throttle body.