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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    This is about the clockspring and what it controls. I hope it helps you. :sick:
  • ctocto Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Caravan. It appears that I have blown the fuse in the outlet that has permanent power (not the switched one above). The two outlets are located to the left of the storage area in the center console. The fuse for the switched outlet is in the relay/fuse box next to the battery but the one I am trying to locate is nowhere to be found. The Edmunds book for this year does not show the power outlets in the wiring diagram... Any suggestions?
  • :) oil levels are perfect. always have. it only does it for a few seconds. (less than five) but i will bring it to the shop to be hooked up. could it be the oxygen sensor? also it only has 100k on it. not bragging but is in showroom condition. sharp!? if you dont reply, thank you for your time.
  • johnbenderjohnbender Posts: 17
    I don't know if it could be the oxygen sensor or not, but I think you should definitely take it into the shop for a diagnosis. A blown head can occur at any mileage, but if you only have 100,000 miles on it, chances are your engine is still o.k. Although, I did see someone on these forums that was complaining they had to replace their engine on their caravan after about 80,000. All I know is the popping sound followed by a loss of power is a symptom of a blown head or a weak engine. Like I said you may want to check to see if there is water in the oil. Just pull out the dipstick and check to see if there are any tiny water droplets sticking to the oil on the dipstick. If you do see water, then that is not a good sign. If you do not see any water, then you probably do not have a blown head. Your best bet is to take in to the shop and have them look at it, at least then you'll know for sure what the problem is.
  • My dad has an '02 Grand Caravan and has had 2 A/C compressors installed already, both under warranty. Warranty is now off and he is concerned about future failures as these are not a cheap part. Are there any TSB's or other notices out about this. His van has the 3.3l engine if that matters. Any info is appreciated.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The power for the powered outlet on the front console comes from a component named PTC7 is listed as a 13 amp fuse. I cannot locate it on my van either. PTC stands for positive temperature coefficients, and I suspect it is a circuit breaker relay type.
  • no water. taking it in on tuesday. wish me luck. thanks for everything....

  • daz1daz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chrysler Voyager and recently went to start the engine and nothing no dash lights and just a clicking noise. After three attempts it started and was fine for a couple of days. My local garage said that something was probably draining the battery. Now the car will not start and I had a friend jump start it and after three pushes accelerator it just cut out. I have been told that the internal locking door switch has been touched and activiated the immobliser. Had this same problem 15 months ago and a new battery was fitted.

    Any views? :confuse:
  • johnbenderjohnbender Posts: 17
    Sounds like the battery. I just replaced the battery on my Voyager myself. I don't know why, but it seems like these Voyagers burn through batteries faster then other vehicles. If it has only been 15 months, your battery is probably still under warranty, just take it back to the place you bought it from. As far as the internal locking door switch problem, I'm not sure how to fix that problem, but my guess is that your vehicle will reset when a new battery is installed. Once the vehicle is disconnected from the battery for more then 5 minutes, the vehicle resets everything when it is hooked back up.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    While in for a routine oil change, I was told that our air condition compressor is under warranty to 70,000 miles. (we have an 01 DGC EX). I'd say check with your local Daimler chrysler dealer.
  • slowhandslowhand Posts: 2
    OK - so I've had a chance to dig into this *much* further and have some follow-up. According to a (well) trained Chrysler specialist. part of the problem occurred when I used the key to open the door. In doing so, I may have triggered the lock mechanism partially - opened the door and 'fooled' the alarm system into thinking I had broken into the car. The running and stopping is part of the alarm system designed to shut down the system if the car is stolen. After three tries the system is 'locked-out' of the process and will not start. Removing the battery cables from the terminals and leaving it overnight allowed the system to reset and it was completely operable by morning. A scan of the BCM (body control module) shows no errors.

    So... my question is has anyone else *ever* heard of this problem/feature and if so, is there any longer term problems relating to it? Any further problems with the BCM? Thanks.
  • atucker1atucker1 Posts: 1
    Was advised by a friend on this site, that I may find some assitance on a issue that I currently have. I got a 2000 Dodge GC with approx 55k miles on it. I've just moved from Michigan to Arizona due to a work. While changing the oil, I noticed that I have Rust surrounding the housing unit on my front left strut, viewed from the engine. When viewing this underneanth the car, i observe no rust. Looking in the warranty book, there is a note on Rust covering outside pannels up to 100,000 miles (I believe). Am I screwed due to being out of the basic warrantly or is this considered a outside pannel. I can allready guess what the dealership has to say on this manner.

    Any assistance would be appreciated
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan with a front end "thudding" noise, I have been to my mechanic and he said he does not know what the problem is without just starting to replace parts in hope that will fix it, he has looked it over and does not see anything wrong, all parts apprear to be in good working order, has anyone had this same problem and been able to get it fixed??
    Any information would be appreciated.....Thank You
  • rktechrktech Posts: 25
    I had an 01 Chrysler T&C which made an odd creaking, thudding noise from the left front shock area...had about 16,500 miles at the time. Anyway, I took it into Chrysler and they replaced the front sway bar link on the left side. Solved the problem nicely.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    We have a 01 DGC EX to which we had a similar noise when going over bumps. This is wait had to be replaced back in Nov. 2004. 1) Front link, sway bar; 2) Link-sway eliminator; 3) Bushing-sway eliminator and 4) Cushion, front sway bar. Cost was $173.12 in parts. Our mileage was 52K. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • swfeatureswfeature Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 SXT and I noticed that little pieces of plastic have broken off of the seats when I have stowed them. In the 2nd row, a few tiny white pieces have broken off - although I haven't noticed any impact on their operation. The cup holder on one side no longer folds away - which means I have to hold it up with one hand while I store the seat in the floor.

    On the rear seats, a panel that covers the seat when stowed away has broken one of it's attachment pieces. This means I can no longer slide things into the bed without the risk of snapping the rear panel off altogether.

    I've only stowed the seats about fifteen times in the year I've owned the car. I am actually a pretty careful person - so I don't think these pieces broke off due to carelessness or rough treatment. I'm taking the van in for service and I'm intrigued to see how the dealership handles my complaint and whether the seats are covered by warranty.

    Anyone else have these or similar problems out there?
  • jdybberjdybber Posts: 3
    I have a 3.3L Grand Caravan with a high idle at startup and throughout the driving range.This is what I have checked and replaced so far:
    Installed brand new AIS Motor:
    the connections are good to the AIS harness:
    there are no shorts shown with ohmeter at the harness:
    throttle body has been cleaned and throttle body gasket replaced:
    I have checked for vacuum leaks and can't find any:
    Vacuum is at a steady 15, but when I open and close throttle the reading drops below 5 (which is OK), but only goes back to 18 before settling at 15. Is the 18 normal or not? I suspect I should see 22 or so, but I am guessing here.
    The car will start at 1250 rpms and quickly rise to between 1750 and 2000.
    I disconnected battery to erase trouble codes, and after replacing AIS motor and driving
    5 minutes to go at least 40-45 mph the Code 25 (AIS motor issues) pops up. What steps do you recommend from here? I realize the ECM(Computer) is still a potential issue, but want to eliminate all before that step. I know enough to be dangerous, but I welcome your expertise so I can diagnose more effectively in the future. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Fifteen is low for an idle vacuum, in my opinion. I'd continue to check for a vacuum leak. A bad PCV valve can cause this. If not vacuum related, this could also be caused by a defective Throttle Position Sensor.

  • jdybberjdybber Posts: 3
    Dusty, The TPS reads within specs on Voltage checks ect. I did have another known good PCV and reading is the same.
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Has anyone had any luck finding a good service manual for the latest generation of vans (01 and up)? The newest I've seen is a Haynes manual, which is for 96-2002, which I don't fully understand as the last gen. ended in 2000. There are some Chrysler factory manuals on ebay, but I'm not sure how friendly these would be to a driveway mechanic.

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