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However, when the sun is beating, I have to keep it on maximum and it never gets too cold. I gave it in for service and of course they said nothing is wrong.
Any one else have this problem
Thanks
caracan3
Let us know what you find out if you get a chance.
So, I'm thinking it's so new, it just needs to be driven a bit more (what do I know?!). Long story short, I drive out of our neighborhood, begin slowing for a stop, and it cuts off again!
Not happy at this point...
It's now in the shop, where the mechanics have hooked it up to their diagnostic equipment and also driven it around a bit. Of course, they "can't replicate the problem." (didn't mechanics used to figure stuff out?)
Any ideas? It's intermittent, but when it happens, it's when you're slowing to a stop.
I'm sure they won't "take it back." :-(
We have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country with 91,000 miles. Recently it has started to make a clunking noise when it starts up. After running for a few minutes the noise gets fainter. When shifting into any other gear the noise stops completely. Any idea what would be causing the noise?
1) The CV thing will be about $600.
2) Our A/C makes a funny sound when we shut the engine off, and we have had to have it charged in the spring the last two years.
3) We just replaced the fuel pump.
4) The dealer says we should put a water pump and timing belt in.
5) Transmission has made a ringing sound while idling in neutral for 60k miles.
Is this transmission going to go out soon?
6) Minor things like the slider door mechanism breaking and some of the exterior molding starting to come off makes one wonder about the general integrity of the chassis and accessory equipment.
We do like our van though, great for four kids, with the dual doors. (all paid for) :-)
Can we drive this one more year w/o paying a bunch of money in repairs?
Or, is it best to sell now and get something else while it is still worth $2500?
However, when the sun is beating, I have to keep it on maximum and it never gets too cold. I gave it in for service and of course they said nothing is wrong.
You might also make sure your recirculating button is on when running the a/c. It makes a big difference in cooling coming out.
Now, when we leave the minivan outside in a hot day and/or start driving in a very hot day the A/C fan shuts off (intermittently), the windows don't open, and the radio doesn't turn on. Everything else works, no issue with the engine/trans. However, it becomes very dangerous to drive b/c of the soffocating heat inside the car and not being able to open any window.
The dealer cannot duplicate the problem and therefore is not giving me any solution or alternative. I am starting to think that the problem could be related to the ignition as they were messing up around there in the previous repairs.
Any ideas what can be wrong ???
Thanks guys!
Will
Strek
I might add that the tensioner pulley is not something you can release and walk away from leaving it in the released position. It is a spring loaded arm on which the idler pulley is located. I can't remember for sure, but I either used a box end wrench, or a socket on my ratchet wrench, and used a two or three foot piece of pipe or conduit over the wrench handle to gain more mechanical advantage, so it does not take as much force to hold it in the released position in order to slip the belt on.
Hayneldan is correct, there is definitely a belt routing diagram easily found under the hood on or near the radiator housing, and it shows exactly which pulley is the tensioner one.
The whole job is relatively easy to do, once you get the routing right on the pulleys. Probably is easier as a two person job, but with patience I did it myself with no assistance, though I am a mechanical engineer, so this type of minor maintenance is right up my alley!
the key just won't turn. Relieving the pressure on the steering
wheel doesn't help. Sometimes working with the key for
5 to 10 minutes to get it to free up. Something is jamming
it and we haven't taken it to be replaced. Currently we leave
the key in the ignition but remove the security chip. With the
key left in the ignition we have no problems. It only happens
after the keys is removed and re-inserted. I will post what the
problem and fix is when we get it repaired.
2001 T&C the serpentine belt idler tension pulley is located about
center of all of the pulleys. It has no grooves in it (smooth as opposed
to the drive pulleys of the alternator, a/c...etc which have grooves). You have to
go from underneath the vehicle to access it. Also, I had trouble getting the right
sized belt for replacement from auto parts supplier. Make sure you take the
old belt in to match the size to the new one.
Hope this helps
I had no problem getting the proper belt, first time from a NAPA parts place and bought an aftermarket pulley from a Checker auto parts store.
Total cost - approx. $65.00
Does anyone know where this is or how to remove the brake shoes? I don't see any holes where a screwdriver can be inserted other than the 3 places which are covered by oval rubber stoppers.
I know that there are some car shops who would check the brakes for free, but I don't like to do that because I know I won't have them do the brakes (can't afford it).
Thanks in advance.
If the check engine light is on, it will be hard to sell it for the blue book price. Also, consider the EPA pipe test, if it does not pass, may require you to spend more money on getting the van to pass so you can register it for an extra year.
If you are selling it to a dealer, he may only give you something like $600 for it (from experience).
In our case, we have decided to put a spending limit on our 96DC van (98K miles). If we should spend more than $500 to $1,000 to get the van in good running order, then it may be better to get a new one. So far, the repair cost is less than $400 and we will keep it and defer purchase until next year.
it will shudder for a second or two and then the gas pedal will stop
responding. If I am going at a high enough speed (55-60 mph) when I
floor the pedal, it will all of a sudden, respond, with the rpms
shooting up from a start-point of 2000 to potentially as high as 5500.
My speed, however, will only increase about 4 or 5 mph. As I do this,
the transmission sounds as if it's shifting at the last possible
moment. When it finally shifts, there is a steady decrease in speed
until the van finally responds to the gas pedal being depressed and
then there's the rapid increase of rpms as I described before.
If I am going at slower speeds, it is much more difficult to keep it at
a constant speed. As I was trying to keep it at 35 yesterday, there
was none of the rapid rpm increases; although I had my foot on the gas,
most of the time the van would just very slowly coast and occasionally
speed up a bit, but my speed was normally somewhere between 10 and 20
mph. Also, it started to make a popping sound and I could feel
something popping underneath the van on the driver's side. I noticed
there is something hanging down there: I know I have a broken CV boot,
and maybe that's it? But there was a time about a month ago that the
same popping occurred and I didn't notice anything hanging down then.
Also yesterday as I tried to make it through a series of stoplights, I
could hardly get the van to respond at all--it would barely go when I
accelerated and the transmission was shifting in a funny way.
When the van is acting up like this, most of the times all I have to do
is pull by the side of the road and let it idle for a minute or two and
then it's fine--I've even driven it 45 miles without it acting up
afterward. I have on two occasions smelled some burning smell after
prolonged driving while it is acting up, but I have not smelled it if
the van's been driving fine. The problem has occured several times as
I tried to drive up a large hill.
This problem does not occur every time we drive the van, nor does the
engine die--the accelerator just does not respond. We have replaced the
spark plugs and distributor cap, the fuel filters have been replaced as
has the fuel pump and although we are unsure as to whether or not the
mechanic cleaned out the fuel tank after he replaced the fuel pump,
nearly everything else about the fuel system has been cleaned out.
Two other pieces to the puzzle: my cruise control may or may not work
during the same period of driving, and although the battery and
alternator are fine, the van tested before as having an electrical
output of 1.5 volts.
The theory about my van is that it has some electrical problem which is
causing the transmission to act up, and the problem is not with the
transmission itself. The transmission has been replaced on this van,
although the engine has not. Also, I failed to include that when the van acts up, the gas pedal has
to be nearly pressed to the floor to get it to respond, if it will.
We have let four different mechanics look at it, and none have been
able to fix it. We are desperately in need of some help! If you have
any ideas as to what is wrong, please let us know!
Anybody have a copy of TSB 23-010-04A-titled AC water on passenger floor)?
Thanks
As for the rear drums, sorry but I have not had the opportunity of getting near my van to check that out. I can say however, that when I changed out the discs in front, the Haynes manual I had was flat out wrong for my model year. I eventually figured out my own way of removing everything, but having the wrong info didn't speed the process at all.
Strek
Just went to the garage to check this out... when the hazard lights and headlights are on at the same time, the driverside headlight flashes along with the amber marker, and I just noticed that ALL THREE lights are light up(when it falshes), and on the passenger side only the front two bulbs light up, the third burns steady as a marker I guess, but to make this worse, with the hazards on, the turnsignals flash oppositely as I said before. When I pull back on the highbeam trigger (with ignition off, key out) the left turn signal still lights up.When I turn on the AC the
headlights come on. The lights are not "full power", but both of them are on, they are the only lights on except for the drivers side amber marker/turn signal is also light up, the tail lights are fine(off). In hopes to clarify what I am saying: When I turn on the AC the headlights come on along with the drivers side marker/turn signal, these are the only lights that come on when I turn the AC on.
Thanks for your time/help,
Oliver