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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey gang, just to underscore what has been said fairly often here about just how clean synthetic oil keeps the innards of an engine, I posted a couple of pictures on my Yahoo! photo album. These two pictures (actually one photo that has a small section copied out for easier viewing) are of the valve cover oil filler hole and the rocker arm below of our 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter mill. I don't recall exactly when I converted it over to synthetic oil, but it was most certainly before the 20,000 mile mark and has had nothing but Mobil 1 (in various weights and formulations) since. Also, I have been less than religious about my OCIs, which have ranged from the factory recommendation of 7,500 miles to well over 12,000 miles in a couple of cases.

    Once in my album, click on "Caravan Stuff" and then click on the last photo DGC3.8-104K.jpg for the detail view of the rocker arm assembly. Interestingly enough, it has been about 4,000 miles since I changed the oil and as can clearly be seen in the small pool of oil in the rocker arm, the oil is still almost as clear as the day I poured it in.

    http://photos.yahoo.com/shipo

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    WOW!!! amazing pics.....I don't put a lot of miles on my cars since I try to abuse my freebie company car. But I should swicth over!! When I get an oil change, all I have to do is specifically ask for mobile one??

    Also, how effective is your "high speed spoiler" at speeds over 125 mph???
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Also, how effective is your "high speed spoiler" at speeds over 125 mph???"

    Hehe, that was just a static wind tunnel test, unfortunately it melted before I was able to get it on the road for a good quality road test. ;-)

    Regarding the Mobil 1, I normally do my own oil changes and as such, I really don't know who has it available as a generally stocked oil, other than a Mobile station that is.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Some cars have a automatic shut off for the electric fuel pump. It is there in case of an accident so that fuel does not continue to be pumped and possibly creating a fire. On the 96 van this relay is located under the hood in the power distribution box. It is the large rectangular box on the drivers side of the van. The cover comes off and should show the location of the relays. On the 96 van the ASD (automatic shut down) relay is located at the bottom left and the fuel pump relay is located just above it. I hope this helps.
  • xxmatthewxxxxmatthewxx Member Posts: 4
    Yeah i read that in the book that the asd relay controls the fuel pump in case of accident and i did back into a pole about a month ago close to the begining of my trouble but there is 7 or something relays exactly the same as the fuel pump relay and the asd relay and i have tried all of them by switching them around and still nothing? when the van quit working it was acting up for a few days and when i was driving would get gas then it wouldn't but only on highway so kinda of weird didn't go out like suddenly like a blown fuse or something just immediatly losing power ? i dunno just rationalizing the million thoughts in my head.
    any other ideas or comments?

    thanks,
    matthew
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Does the cover on the power distribution box show which is the ASD relay? Switching around the relays will only move the defective one to another position. The lower two relays on the left side (on the 96) are associated with the fuel pump.If you know someone with the same year van, you could mark your relays and switch them with a running van, or buy two relays and try them out in the positions marked "fuel pump" and "ASD".
  • xxmatthewxxxxmatthewxx Member Posts: 4
    yeah I know it only moves the defective one to a different position but it should still move a good one into that asd position or fuel pump position the box does say on it where the asd one is and also where the fuel pump is and I tried every relay in there in the asd spot and every relay in there in the fuel pump spot. the thing is I get power to the fuel sending unit and it is attached and part of the pump. so that's what is losing me it's getting 12v to the sending unit but why not the pump.
  • rayya73rayya73 Member Posts: 3
    My van sounded like it was out of gas but in fact it has a half a tank...someone mentioned might be Throttle Position Sensor...I mentione earlier that when i initially tried to start it the gas pedal stuck all the way down and i had to turn it off..but now it wont start (sounds like it out of gas) and I thought I saw smoke coming from the solenoid...what is a Throttle Position Sensor anyway and where might it be located on a 1991 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3.V6..??
  • lashleroux15lashleroux15 Member Posts: 11
    Hi everyone,

    I wonder if anyone else has seen this type of phenomenon. I bought a used 02 T&C EX not too long ago. Had to replace the sway bar bushings and fix the rear liftgate lock motor (myself so it cost $80 total for everything).
    I knew this stuff going into the purchase.

    The strange thing I'm seeing is the van's lights (both headlight and interior) will flicker when sitting at idle. Not greatly so but you just notice it when stopped. Really weird. And I noticed that the headlights will temporarily dim when I first hit the brakes while driving (just a split second).

    Seems to me like an electrical system/charging problem. Was wondering if anyone had some insight on this? I'm thinking the alternator may be starting to go (so I might switch it out myself). Any comments or ideas are greatly appreciated
  • collins73collins73 Member Posts: 1
    The problem is the left driving light is on and the right driving light is off. When I turn the headlamps on the right low beam comes on and the left low beam goes off. When I switch the high beams on the right goes off and the left comes on. I was told it is the front control module with a open circuit on it. Where is it located, behind the lamp, right? How easy is it to check?
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    Wow, I 've been experiencing the same thing on my '01 DGC.I did a google search and found that the alternator might be starting to go(?) Anyone else have any input? Thanks!
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    I had the same problem on each of my two power sliding doors ('01 T&C Lxi) a few years ago. There is a clutch mechanism on the motor that disengages when you operate it manually. The clutch fails, causing you to try and open/close the door with the motor still enagaged. Mine were both replaced under warranty so I have no clue as to the cost to fix it.
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    My '01 T&C Lxi has done this VERY intermittently over the past 3 years. It sometimes goes months without happening.

    I do highly suspect something with my alternator or charging system, because I am about to put my 4TH battery in it today. Both Chrysler & Sears say my charging system checks out OK, but I've never had a battery last more than 18 months (2 MOPAR Golds and now my top-of-the-line Diehard). Some of the battery cells get internal shorts and it won't charge, eventually getting to the point where you can't even jump start it.
  • eric6eric6 Member Posts: 10
    Hi,

    I took it to the dealer. 600 dollars to repair. New Motor and connection cable, about 300 dollars. The rest is labor.

    I am going to live with it the way it is.

    Thanks for your reply.

    Eric
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    Never did get resolved - Chrysler (Ed Voyles im Marietta)said 2nd battery not under warranty. Got a Diehard with 36 month warranty - it just died this week so Sears had to replace it. Looking thru the forum, you see lots of posts where Chrysler vans chew up batteries in under 18 months. I have no idea why.
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    Ouch! After religiously using the dealer to service my previous Nissan & Mistubishi cars with reasonable & successful results, it amazes me what Chrysler dealers charge for repairs. It will definitely be a deterrent for me ever purchasing one again.
  • shadowz1shadowz1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all, this is an update to my Van and its problem:
    I took it to a shop after giving up and found out what the problem was so if anybody has the same trouble ever here is what happened to me 4 wires had corroded and broke off the harness which connects to the computer but i didn't see them when i took it to the shop it took them a day to figure out the problem and fix it so if you ever get the same simptoms like in my earlier posts then check your wire harnesses
    spent 250.00 on parts i didn't need and all it was was 4 wires
    which corroded and broke off the harness hopfully this will help sombody in the future.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I've got a 01 and have the same flickering problem. I noticed it after experiencing hesitating problems with the van. I had the ignition wires changed which solved the hesitating problem, but immediately noticed that the lights would flicker. Of course most of the mechanics in my area are slightly blind so they could never see the flickering. I've had this issue for over a year. I thought it may be a coil, but as long as the van runs I'll live with problem.
  • bigerdog10bigerdog10 Member Posts: 1
    when i use remote entry sear and mirrow go all out of wack
  • pjay1pjay1 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 has 2 Cig lighters. One in front and one in back. No juice at all in either. Checked fuses and they are all good. What do I do? I want to use my phone charger!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Is the ignition key in the on or accessory position? If the key is not in either position both cigar lighter outlets are unpowered.
  • davwhitedavwhite Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Chrysler Town & Country AWD 3.8 L with 40K.
    I noticed an almost imperceptable vibration from the rear at 50-55 MPH (It goes away above 60MPH). I had my dealer check the tires for broken belts, balance, etc. The verdict is the tires are OK, but I need a new drive (propeller) shaft at about $750. I'm told there is no repair of the shaft and that the problem is most likely a bad CV joint which is part of the shaft. Has anybody heard of this, or have a cheaper fix?
  • fioredavefioredave Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 LXI that seems to have the same problem. It doesn't hesitate, but the headlights and interior lights do flicker to some extent when idling. I have alo noticed that when braking, the headlights seem to dim for a split second.
  • andreakandreak Member Posts: 1
    I wondered if you resolved the problem. I have an 2004 Chrysler T&C that is having that problem, but I haven't contacted the service dept yet. If spark plugs and wires replacement worked, I want to suggest they fix that first instead of the whole fuel filter/pump. Appreciate your response!

    -Andrea
  • rmaxrmax Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the warning. On my '01 Grand Caravan, neither door opens/closes by pushing the button and the passenger door is a lot of work to open manually. To top it off, the liftgate unlocks, then locks before it has a chance to open.
    You can find great deals on these vans but I'm wishing I would have held out for a Toyota Sienna. :(
  • onevthokionevthoki Member Posts: 3
    I recently discovered a small hole in the back of the right middle seat on my '05 T&C. Looking closer it seemed as if there was a screw in the seat that was poking out slightly and that pressure is what caused the hole. I took it to the dealer and they had a Chrysler technician come in and do the repair; it was under warranty. The dealer has not had any other T&C owner with this problem, and just wondering if any one else has experienced this.
  • sc1234sc1234 Member Posts: 1
    Help! Engine on my Town & Country would not turn over at all when the ignition key was turned. Mechanic diagnosed starter motor problem and replaced it. Things worked fine for a day then problem recurred. Then the mecahnic diagnosed ignition switch as faulty and replaced this. Van worked worked like a charm for 6 days. Now it won't start again.

    Any idea what could be causing this problem to get fixed and then reoccur a few days later? It's driving me nuts! Thanks.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Your question seems to indicate you have had no experience with CV issues in the 20 some years they have been in common use. I replaced an an axle on a Subaru a couple months ago for $175 at 125K. I have replaced others, but none before 90K and then due to boot failure and CV contamination by road debris. So a failure at 40K seems out of place and $750 seems over-priced. I would seek another opinion probably from a quality independent mechanic.
    2 other points, 1 failure symptom usually begins with clicking during turns and the early symptoms can be ignored for a long time before the joint completely fails. Roy
  • crockettcrockett Member Posts: 1
    WATER KEEPS COLLECTING IN THE REAR OF MY 2000 GC.REAR DOOR INDICATOR IS TELLING ME THE HATCH IS OPEN. (ITS NOT)CANT TELL WEAR THE WATER IS COMING FROM. NOW MY LIGHTS ARE STROBING (CONTROLLED NOT SHORTING) AND I CAN STOP IT BY USING THE DIMMER SWITCH. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. :
  • stonegatestonegate Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Town & Country and experiencing a gas smell when starting engine. The smell happens periodically. May not happen for 2 or 3 days, then it comes back. Could this be fuel filter or fuel pump? Any suggestions?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I don't suppose you smell the gas more often right after you've fill it with gasoline. If yes, I have a pretty good idea of what the problem is.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • petras2petras2 Member Posts: 104
    my 96 gc with a 3.8, 105k miles, has been reliable except for 2 instances...every 50k miles the engine would suddenly stall and would not restart...diagnosed both times as a bad powertrain control module, mechanics can't find an underlying cause for them going bad...anyone experience this problem or any ideas? thanks
  • jwajwa Member Posts: 1
    We own a 1998 Voyager. The problem is that we cannot turn the key in the ignition. The wheels are turned slightly to the right, and we followed the manual which says to unlock the wheels by turning slightly to the right and this will unlock the ignition to be able to turn the key. This is not working. Any suggestions?
  • wendell1940wendell1940 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 Voyager 3.3L V6 and I live in Iowa. For those who don't know we have pretty severe winters. If there is even a slight snow drift on the road, it causes the belt to slip right off because it is exposed underneath. Any suggestions on how to go about fixing this problem?
    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Wow, this is a strange one. :confuse: I live in New Hampshire and have driven through all kinds of severe winter weather and never had a problem with the belt on either of our 3.8 liter Caravans (which use the same belt as your Voyager).

    A few questions:
    How old is the belt?
    Does it happen in the summer when it rains?
    Has the Voyager been in an accident?
    Have any of the components actuated by the belt ever been replaced? (i.e. A/C compressor, Alternator...)
    Have you had your mechanic check the alignment of all of the pulleys?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There is supposed to be a plastic deflector/guard under the crankshaft pulley that drives the serpentine belt that protects the belt. This deflector has to be at least partially removed when replacing the serpentine belt. I bet yours is missing. We have driven ten winters in Wisconsin in our 1996 3.3L Caravan and have never had this issue.

    I did replace the belt once myself as it was beginning to chirp, so I know there is a guard down below. If I recall it is held on by one or two bolts and also clips to the lower air dam, but it has been a couple years since I partially removed it to access the serpentine belt.
  • beezneezbeezneez Member Posts: 1
    My mother has a 1995 Plymouth Voyager that needs the speed control sensor replaced. When I looked up the part, I got a listing for for an Input and an Output speed control sensor. How do I know which one it is or should I just replace both? Also, where exactly are they located and does anyone know if there's a picture or diagram I can take a look at to get my bearings? I am having the hardest time trying to find this info, so any help is much appreciated! Thanks a bunch....JM
  • bmajorbmajor Member Posts: 2
    2000 t& c. had to replace 2 front /1 rear bearing. anyone had to do it???think it may be a recall ?? $1,100.00
  • electromomelectromom Member Posts: 1
    Hi does anyone have an idea why we would be having this problem. We can start the vehicle fine with the remote starter but 2 out of 3 times the vehicle will not start with the key. We have a 2003 dodge grand caravan. The person we just bought the van from says that the remote system is an either or so we should only use the key or only use the remote starter. Which doesn't make sense to me. Thanks!!
  • duke87nukeduke87nuke Member Posts: 12
    After getting my new (4th) battery (see my previous posts)on my '01 T&C, all the main stack background lights, the steering column stalk lights, and the main instrument cluster indicator (the orange needles) lights are out. I still have the main instrument cluster background lights for the speedo/tach and the center stack still has the lights on for the radio LED display & EQ, the CD changer disc loaded indicators, and the heat/AC temperature indicators for each of the 3 zones. I can still control all these center stack lights with the dashboard dimmer dial.

    I checked all the fuses under the hood as OK, so I'm assuming it is a bulb that channels the light to all these indicators. Does anybody know where this bulb is located or if there is another fuse loaction for it? The manual mentions a replacement lamp type for the dashboard lights, but gives you no clue where it is.

    Thanks!
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    in my 01 grand sport.....when turn wheel left..air bag light comes on for about 5 sec...help anyone
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Most likely it is the "clock spring" in the steering wheel assembly. There have been a number of recalls and/or extended warrantys over the years on this, dating back to 1996 model year. Don't know if yours is covered under one of these, but check with your dealer.
  • rrc1rrc1 Member Posts: 5
    I agree, it is a known problem. I had my 2002 Caravan in 5 times because the air bag warning light kept coming on. I was never charged for the repair. They finally replaced the part and it never happened again.
    There is a website with the recall described.
    link title
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I had the same symptoms with my 01SE and it turned out to be the clockspring. At the time I got it fixed there was no recalls on the 01 model year.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    thanks to all of you... will look into it
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Both sensors are located on the transmission. Input just below hoses that go from the trans to the radiator, Output next to where the shifter connects to the transmission.
  • willemwillem Member Posts: 16
    Hi when the belt started chirping and you replaced it, did you replace the tensioner? I'm not a mechanic, but remember that when my belt started chirping, my mechanic told me that it was selftensioning and that the tensioner had to be replaced. So he changed it, and the belt(?) and I never had a prroblem since. Oh and I'm driving through a lot of snow in wintertime :)

    Willem
  • willemwillem Member Posts: 16
    Hi when the belt started chirping and you replaced it, did you replace the tensioner? I'm not a mechanic, but remember that when my belt started chirping, my mechanic told me that it was selftensioning and that the tensioner had to be replaced. So he changed it, and the belt(?) and I never had a problem since. Oh and I'm driving through a lot of snow in wintertime :)

    Willem
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Whenever I do "belts" on a car, I always do the tensioner (assuming one exists) as a matter of routine. Does the tensioner always need to be replaced at belt change time? Nope. Is it a very good idea? Yup. The fact is that a loose/worn/weak tensioner can cause your belts to fail long before they should.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Note that sometimes the chirp is not the result of the belt getting old or the tensioner going bad, but can be in the tensioner or idler pulley bearings themselves. On our 1996 Caravan I replaced the original belt at about 60000 miles, then a couple of years later, I replaced the tensioner pulley (but not the tensioner arm assembly itself) as the bearings began getting noisy on the pulley. The pulley can be purchased as a separate item at less expense than replacing the whole tensioner assembly.
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