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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Member Posts: 93
    Hey Shipo, I also still have my 98 GC purchased new. It has 108k and has been nearly perfect. Several license plate bulbs replaced (can't figure that out) 2 fan relays are all I have done except for routine maintenance. I have the trans serviced by the dealer every 35k.
    I had the serp belt come off in the rain a few times after the dealer replaced it as part of a PM. The dealer performed a tsp dated back to 1999 for $235 which didn't help. I read somewhere that the mopar belts might be the problem, I replaced it with a Dayco and it hasn't come off since. My next one will be the Town and Country.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, interesting. I guess it's just dumb luck that I happened to replace my serpentine belt with a NAPA unit.

    Hmmm (again), 108,000 miles huh? Well I'm probably going to catch you in the next couple of weeks as I'm now putting about 500 miles per week on our 1998. Zoom, zoom! ;-)

    A fan relay? How did you know that you needed that part? What were the symptoms?

    The license plate bulb? That's really weird. Looked at another way, it's probably cheaper to just buy a supply of bulbs as opposed to spending the time/energy/money to figure out the source of the problem.

    Keep us posted. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    Shipo-
    I do respect your opinion, but I feel different about DC and Plymouth Voyager.
    We bought our Voyager with less than 1000 miles on it brand new. We've had it properly maintainenced every single year, but something new always is wrong with it. Everyone we know who has a DC or Plymouth Voyager doesn't like it due to the transmission problems, engine problems, and other miscellanious stuff. (Maybe that explains why they're cheaper than other vans)
    I don't know if you've ever owned a foreign car, but we have owned many, and we love them. They last longer, period.
    We owned our Toyota Tercel for 17 years before we bought the Plymouth Voyager. With 13 miles on it when bought, we put about another 240,000 on it. Not one problem. Sold it in 1999 for $425. It's still running today, no problems.
    And about Hyundai's gas mileage, yeah, ummm, our Accent gets 43 MPG, so I don't know what all that talk is about getting bad gas mileage.
    Our van gets 16 MPG, which is horrible. It only has less than 125K on it, which shouldn't give it that many problems.
    Chrysler is notorious for their transmission and engine problems.
    Looking into the mechanics' parking lots and used car lots, these vans are the ones sitting here.
    Once someone can persuade me Chrysler builds a reliable car, maybe then I'll think about reconsidering. Right now, with two Chrysler products broken at 100K and 121K, I think it's the manufacturer at fault, because we bring it in to the mechanic yearly to make sure everything is working right.
  • jim98jim98 Member Posts: 3
    Let me add to this string: I have had 3 Chrysler Minivans, 1992 Plymouth, 1996 Plymouth Rally and a 2001 Town and Country. Loved the 1992 and 1996. The 2001 T&C was at the dealer for several warranty issues. But that's OK, it wasn't costing me anything. However, after the warranty, had to replace the Air conditioning dryer, O rings and seals in the transmission at 69,000 miles, struts at 79,000 miles (this might be normal wear) but the biggest disappoint was the transmission imploding at 81,000 miles. And the worst thing::: Chrysler doesn't care! Called the Customer Assistance 800 number off their web site. Even though I have been a customer for 14 years, and probably would be in the future, they told me that sometimes this happens to the transmissions, and they are not willing to do anything for me. Sorry. Oh and there is no one else in Chrysler you can take your compliant to. End of Story. WIth that type of customer service, it's not a mystery why Americans are flocking to the Honda's and Toyota's for their minivans.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I agree, a transmission, properly cared for, should last over 100,000 miles. Of course DC won't do anything for you, at the 81,000 mile mark, since your vehicle came with a 3/36,000 warranty. I did receive assistence twice from DC when I owned a neon, once when I was barely out of warranty, the other time when the dealer charged me for a costly un-necessary repair. My 2001 Caravan has been very reliable. I know this dosn't help you, and I also know they lost another customer, and all your close friends that you will recommend against DC corporation.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Recommend you read Honda and Toyota issues and problem forums before going off on DCX vans. Comparatively speaking the DCX vans 2005 and 2006, have much less problems than Honda and Toyota. Only certain year Odysseys are covered by the trans repair to 100,000 miles Certainly NOT the 2006 models.
  • timothyftimothyf Member Posts: 40
    Hi I have a 2002 ES AWD with 95,000 miles on it. Recently we took a drive to Wisconsin, all highway miles and averaged 18.5 miles/gal. at 75mph. I used to get in the low twenties. Any ideas on what I can do to improve the mileage? I figure I will change the wires and spark plugs at 100k. It's had all its required maintenance. Thanks,
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I figure I will change the wires and spark plugs at 100k. It's had all its required maintenance."

    While I'm not saying that's not your problem, I had the plugs and wires on our 1998 changed at 100K last October and if it made a difference in mileage, it wasn't by much.

    Were I in your shoes, I'd start by looking at my tires. Is there any excess wear? Are they up to pressure? How many miles on the tires and how much tread is left on them?

    Failing that, I'd start looking at things like the air filter to see how clean that is. What kind of shape is the exhaust system (i.e. is it dented anywhere that might restrict the flow).

    As a long shot, since you first bought your 2002, have the speed limits (or the average speeds driven) gone up in the areas that you drive?

    Other things to consider:
    - When you calculated your "Low twenties" for mileage, was that during the warmer months? If so the problem could simply be the reformulated winter gasoline.
    - IIRC, Wisconsin (and other surrounding states) uses an ethanol blend (which is detrimental to fuel economy) in their gasoline. The question here is, have you gotten "Low twenties" while driving in the midwest?
    - What were the weather conditions on this last trip? Last summer I drove from southern New Hampshire (the Boston area) to northern Illinois (the Chicago area), and normally an east-to-west trip gets pretty crummy mileage due to the "Prevailing Westerlies". On that trip I managed almost 24 mpg in our 1998 at about 75 mph. Not too shabby, however, on the return trip, where I would normally have noticed a small uptick in economy, I only got about 21 mpg due to very windy conditions.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I completelty understand that once you have problems with a certain make of car, you tend to be sour on that brand. But, bottom line is that you own/owned a 1997 vehicle...an almost 10 yeal old car. Do you really think that a 2005/2006 car can be reliably compared to a 1997???? True, back in the mid 90's (and into the early 2000's) Chrysler had probelms with transmissions. But, from the evidence I have seen, great strides have been made in the reliability of DaimlerChrysler Minivans.

    It does sound like you had issues with your van and I am sorry for that, but at some point it should be time to bury the hatchet.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    "WIth that type of customer service, it's not a mystery why Americans are flocking to the Honda's and Toyota's for their minivans. "

    Just wondering if you know who sold more minivans last year than any other manufacturer and who's sales have increased year over year?
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    After having the mechanic tow our PV, they called us. It needs a new fuel pump, water pump, timing belt, and other misc. things. It is ranging anywhere from $800-$1100.. quite expensive for a van that has basically everything new in it with only 120K @ 9 years old. Now we're trying to decide... trade it in or fix it?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Is the mechanic a DCX dealer or an independant?
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    it's an independent mechanic... We found a 2001 Ford Windstar to replace it, but we're not sure if we should just put the money into the Voyager and keep it running because it's had basically everything else fixed in it.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with your Dodge minivan. I'd get rid of it if it was me. I did buy a 2005 DGC and so far I love it. Hoping I have better luck than you. It seems you have had the worse luck of anyone I have ever read about. I'm really sorry to hear that.

    I see your a new member to these boards. I'd like to welcome you aboard.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I have a 98 Ply GR Voy Expresso with 135K and no unscheduled maintenance except for a highway trip where some debris decided to take out the a/c. The van also survived a run in with a full grown male deer at 75mph on the Taconic State Pkwy about 30k ago. Other than that it gets near 30mpg hwy and does whatever I ask of it.

    My girlfriend's parents have had their 2005 Honda Ody for over 2 years now just about and have had no problems whatsover...including brakes, tires, nothing.

    So yeah, just because you have had problems with your van doesn't mean that the rest of them are garbage. Sometimes you just get a dud. Both the Ody and the DGC/Ply are fine choices for a minivan purchase depending on what you want.

    If I were you I would not consider fixing the van except to sell it. If you consider it entirely unreliable why waste your time? Seems counterproductive to me. If things suck, I get rid of them. Then you can stop wasting time on here being unhappy and start enjoying the ride in some other vehicle. Life is too short.

    good luck
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Other than that it gets near 30mpg hwy and does whatever I ask of it.

    Wow!You sure have a good one, our 99 Caravan Sport (a smaller, lighter vehicle) has never gotten anywhere near 30 mpg in 90,000 miles, in fact getting near 25mpg would be unique.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, interesting, I've got a 1998 GC Sport with the 3.8 (and 108K on the clock), and if I really keep my speed under control (i.e. CC @ 65mph), I can get 25 mpg without too much trouble, that is assuming 1) no A/C, and 2) I'm not driving into a head wind or some such.

    FWIW, when I said I can get 25 mpg, that “25” is based upon the OBC display That having been said, through testing I've discovered that the display is about 5% optimistic meaning that it would actually need to show 26.25 for me to actually be getting 25. Hmmm, 26.25 might be a bit of a reach at 65 mph, maybe at 55 it would be possible, however, I think I'm allergic to driving at anything below 70 (assuming no traffic), so it's highly unlikely I'll ever find out if a true 25 mpg is possible. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    The best my van did (Dodge GC Sport 3.8) was 32.5 mpg at steady 55 mph, cruise on, AC on, one person, no load, no wind, gently rolling terrain in Pennsylvania. This was measured by filling up and driving, then filling up again and calculating.
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for your input. We decided to fix our Voyager (yet again!) and wait on the Windstar because we already have car payments. Otherwise, the private party value for the Voyager is $3995. It has 126K on it. It's been rust-proofed, and the exterior and interior are in mint condition. Like I say, we've put a new transmission, engine, a/c compressor, clock spring, head gasket, and now water pump, fuel line, and timing belt in it. If we decide to sell, do you think $3995 would be a reasonable price, or could we possibly go up because of all the repairs/new parts we've put in it? :lemon:
    (spent about $8600 for repairs within the last 5 years)
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Does the independant mechanic live near a lake river or ocean? He might have a boat payment to make. Listen to Click and Clack the tappet brothers. http://www.cartalk.com/
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    No, we don't anywhere live near the ocean... The mechanic doesn't have a boat, either. We know this local mechanic very well in person. They have the highest prices in town, but the most reliable and trustworthy! (Quality over quantity) I'm just curious.... I'd hate to get just the book value for the van if we've put so much money into repairs. It almost seems like keeping it would better so we don't get ripped off. But I don't want to do that, either. :sick:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    A couple of thoughts:

    Thought 1: Given how reliable the DC vans seem to be for most folks I have to wonder if maybe you aren't getting the best service for it after all. Said another way, are all of the problems/maintenance expenses you've incurred due to the fact that your van hasn't been properly maintained.

    Thought 2: Which van would you consider a better value at any given price:
    - Yours, which seems to have had an inordinately high number of component failures (regardless of the reason), and as such has had lots of work done on it (which in my mind at least implies questionable maintenance AND a future maintenance nightmare), or
    - Mine of a similar vintage but with ~20K fewer miles (107K on the clock), which has been maintained by the book and other than the Battery, the Drivers' Door Light Switch and the Vacuum Battery Tray, has all original parts from the factory (errr, also with the exception of consumables like tires, brakes, blades, belts and hoses). In addition, it doesn't use even a quart of oil between 7,500 mile oil changes, gets decent mileage (for a van with the 3.8) and is in top mechanical condition.

    I ask that question because I'm quite sure that my van wouldn't even come close to fetching the kind of money you think your van is worth, and quite frankly, I'd much rather gamble my money on a van that has been historically reliable.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    Well, we did have the oil changed at a different company 1 week before it broke down this last week. We don't usually take it to this company, but our regular mechanic was closed. We get the oil changed every 3,000 miles, with yearly maintanences done every 12,000 miles. Could these people have POSSIBLY messed around with it? They checked everything over and told us the van was in grade A-condition. HMMMMM.... that makes me wonder. I'm not blaming them, but it's such a coincidence. The van has been properly maintained. I don't know of many people who take as much pride in their vehicles as we do. We even rust-proofed it and get it detailed every 1-2 years, which has nothing to do with the mechanical maintenance, but we're proud of it.... when it works.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Our Caravan has the instantaneous MPG readout and can you believe it? We've gotten as much as 99 MPG!
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    He did say he calculated the 32 MPG by measuring between fill-ups so I don't really see what the issue is. I know my van's overhead display is also a little optimistic so my 30MPG hwy trip was probably more like 29 but it was also loaded to the gills with cargo and I was babying the heck out of it because of the load. Driving down from the mountains of VT to CT made the trip easier on the fuel tank but I still think it's an impressive number for a minivan stuffed with things. Especially considering the fuel consumption another vehicle would get doing the same task (pickup, SUV, small truck, full-size van).

    Also, my normal mixed mileage is about 25mpg which is probably 80% highway. Thats really not bad mileage at all for a minivan. My '90 Accord only betters that number by about 4mpg and cannot haul nearly as much. The caveat is though that I drive a lot slower in the minivan (65 on the hwy) and am much less aggressive since it is not exactly nimble. Also, it is only me in the empty minivan for most of the driving. The accord would get 30 if I drove it like a minivan I'm sure.

    This is all on a '98 vehicle with the 3.3 V6 engine. It may not have any guts but it is excellent on fuel.

    If it was just a joke forgive me, it's after work. But there is no reason a well maintained DCX offering within the last 7 years or so should not be able to get near 25mpg HWY when calmly driven with no cargo. It IS probably harder with the 3.8 though.

    Actually, on just about every vehicle I've owned (barring a very disfunctional Chevy Caprice) I've gotten at least EPA mileage but almost always better than EPA numbers. Maintenance is key I think. We have a full size '88 Bonneville that has no trouble getting 28MPG HWY with the gutsy 3800 series V6 GM motor.

    What is under the hood of your DC Sport?
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    I don't rely on the over head computer when wanting to know my mpg. I noticed if I am driving down the freeway and didn't reset the computer when I started the van up, I get a much lower reading then if I get on the freeway and then reset it. It can be as much as 10 mpg or more. I am only a mile from the freeway and ride on it about nine miles. I could understand that if I were only on the freeway for 3-4 miles.
  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Member Posts: 93
    "We know this local mechanic very well in person"

    It' a good idea for some repairs to shop around.
    Repairs like trans services, and tune ups I go to the Chrysler dealer because they are usually more familiar with the vehicles quirks. Brakes, shocks etc: are to costly at a dealer so I use an outside shop or do it myself. Mr daughter left me her car to take for inspection while she was away. I took it to my shop where I have been bringing 3 cars for 6+ years. The Maxima failed inspection because of a faulty knock sensor code that brought on the check engine light. It's located under the intake manifold and the shop wanted $375. plus $150. for the part to replace it and would need the car for 2 days. I found a shop that specializes in Maxima repairs, the owner told me to buy the part on ebay for $95. He changed it in 15 minutes and charged me $60 with an oil change.
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    For the last three days, the Edmunds site will not "remember me" and I have to sign in every time I visit. I have not changed anything on my computer and all the other sites I visit several times daily still remember me as usual. I've been visiting Edmunds Forums for over a year and never a problem before. Can't find a way to email tech guys so hope the Moderator of this site can help. BTW, cookies are still being accepted and I have checked and several Edmunds cookies are in the cookie folder.

    Thanks,

    C.B.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey Gang, I've got a problem that maybe some of y'all have already encountered and may even have come up with a fix. Story (coming from me, what else?) follows:

    Last night Mrs. Shipo called from work (some 30 miles away from home) and informed me that she had a flat and that, given the cold and the wind, she was in no mood to even attempt to put it on herself. Being the dutiful husband, I had my Mother-In-Law feed the kids and off I went.

    The first thing that I noticed was a very nice split/cut in the sidewall of the right-front Goodyear Assurance TripleTred (with all of 2,000 miles on it) on her 2003 DGC ES. "Hmmm, no nail in the tread caused that flat." I thought to myself, "Damn!" She later admitted to hitting a curb a few weeks ago.

    I opened the lift gate, popped the jack and the "Lug wrench" out of their opening and proceeded to crank down the spare tire. After a few moments of cranking I checked to see how much progress I'd made and was surprised to see that I'd made none. All I could see was the cable hanging from the middle of the wheel holder all of the way down to the ground. I yanked, pried, pulled, shook, kicked and otherwise applied every inducement I could think of to get that damn tire to drop, ummm, including a few choice words, some of which are even in the dictionary. :blush: No joy.

    "Well, no matter," I thought to myself, "I'll use the spare in mine." I opened up the back of my van, cranked down the cable and... no tire, just a cable reaching the ground. What are the chances of two Caravans (5 years apart in vintage) suffering the same stuck spare tire syndrome? I applied some of the same persuasions to my spare tire and it did manage to drop after only about 30 seconds. Cool! On with the spare, on with the engine, Reverse with the transmission, and "grind, grind, grind" from the front of the van. Grrr. Up with the jack, off with my spare. I could clearly see where the caliper was making contact with the inside of the wheel. Apparently the 2003 has a different spare wheel offset than does my 1998.

    Emboldened by my success with getting my spare to drop, I went back to work on hers, inventing a few new epithets in the process. No joy, again. In the end I had to leave the van there with my spare holding up her front-right corner. I found a new tire this morning, had it mounted, drove back to her office, put her wheel back on and now all is well, except her spare tire is still stuck.

    Any ideas?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... I have dropped the spare every spring and cleaned/lubed the whole assembly. Since Murphy's Law applies here, I have never had a flat tire.

    There are small rubber contact patches where the spare tire abuts the frame. These pads are put on with a bitumastic compound, which over time, can actually bond to the sidewall pretty strongly.

    I would suggest dropping the cable, and removing the bracket that pushes the tire up. Following that, try soaking a solvent between the tire and the frame liberally, perhaps allowing it to soak overnight. Following this, prying, coupled with cursing, and an optional sixpack of beer should do the job.

    Good luck.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Thanks for the advice. ;-)

    If I ever manage to get her tire to drop, I'll most certainly clean and lube the entire assembly. Unfortunately while her tire does come away from the body of the car by maybe an inch or two, and as such rotates freely, I cannot get it to drop any further. I'm assuming that the nylon pin (which has the cable running through it) is stuck inside the receiver sleeve.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... you will need to drop the entire carrier assembly. I don't have an 03, but the carrier should be similar to my 99. The whole assembly is mounted on a cross bar that bolts to the frame rails on both sides with several 12 mm (or is it 1/2 inch) bolts.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ahhh, now that is information that is going to help. I haven't crawled underneath just yet (too much snow and slush at the moment). That having been said, I'll certainly lube up my 1998 before I put the spare tire back up. Even thought that job isn't likely to be too difficult, I think some beer is still in order. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
  • good4ugood4u Member Posts: 18
    We had that happen back in December with our 1997 Plymouth Voyager - there was a leak in the side of the tire - and couldn't get the spare off. After about 20 minutes of tugging it from the cable, we found out there's a special way to get the spare out. We had to crank the cable down, then up to the tire, then back down again. The tire eventually came down with it, but that was a new story. We had to figure out how to get the spare off the cable. I don't know how we got it because it was dark, but we eventually did.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The spare comes off of the cable real easy, all you need to do is separate the two plastic pieces that form the "T" shaped wheel hanger (slide the vertical portion of said "T" up through the top horizontal portion) and then slip them through the hole in the wheel.

    Regarding the down/up/down procedure, unfortunately I tried that too. Didn't work. :-(

    Since I took my son and a friend of his Tubing this afternoon, I was already cold and wet so I decided to crawl under the older van and check out the mechanism prior to rehanging the spare tire. From the looks of things, it seems that there is a safety catch inside the receiver for the vertical portion of the inverted "T" wheel hanger. Said catch appears to be designed to release when the nylon winch nut is turned counter clockwise, and engage with clockwise rotation. I'm thinking that it is this catch that is most probably the culprit on our 2003; however, Mrs. Shipo is currently out running errands in it so I cannot check to see of there might be some way for me to easily release the safety and drop the wheel.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I agree, as I usually check using the "divide miles travelled by gallons put into tank" method. I have no problem getting upwards of 25mpg with mostly hwy driving in the Gr. Voyager so I don't really understand the previous comments by others...

    -Keith
  • smart_alecsmart_alec Member Posts: 19
    2001 T&C Limited. In 70,000 miles we have had one fuel injector and one rear antiskid sensor replaced under warrenty. I replaced the two warped front brake rotors ($25 each from NAPA) which was an easy and quick job.
    We drive with headlights on and have lately noticed several center console background lights out in the upper horizontal row of switches as well as the lower air conditioning control panel. After digging into these panels I find the bulbs soldered to circuit boards and for all practical purposes unreplacable. The panels come as complete units, $65 for the upper panel of switches, $340 for the lower panel. I think I'll let the next owner decide if he needs background lights!
  • 97dodgegrandes97dodgegrandes Member Posts: 5
    Either: Battery is getting tired, or battery cable is loose on battery, Cable is loose on starter, starter relay, starter. Advise you to check the free stuff today (loose connections, check battery). Then wait for relay or starter to fail.
  • jcmorsejrjcmorsejr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 Dodge Caravan that has a mind of it's own. Here's some history. Two years ago it just died. I discovered that the fuel pump wasn't working. I replaced the fuel pump. Everything was fine for about a month and it just died, again. Sometimes it would start and sometime it wouldn't , but I couldn't trust it to go to the corner market. When I wasn't able to start it there was no spark from the ignition coil. I replaced the iginition coil ( no help ), then I ordered a SBEC unit I found on Ebay ( no help ) then I ordered a Distributor with Optical pickup from a Savage yard in North Caroline ( no help ). When I run the onboard diagnostic it says no ignition reference signal ( code 11 ). I was about to give up when I read in the maintence manual about the Auto SHutdown relay. My problem is I can't find it. The picture in the book shows a typical array of engine compartment relays located next to the battery. None are the ASD relay. Any assistance would be truely appreciated. I'm ready to turn her out to pasture.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    I think it would have been a lot cheaper to have taken it to a dealer and had them check the code and fixed it from the start.
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    Hello,
    I took my Gr. Caravan 2001(63,000 Miles) in for the heated seat recall. Two hours later they called to tell me that they took the "courtesy" of checking my trans. fluid and that is was orange/brown instead of red, so it needed a flush. $150.00 Then he proceeded to tell me that the mechanic had a hard time starting it, so they checked my plugs, and they were worn down, so it needed a complete tune-up including cleaning the throttle body, etc.,$250.00. Next, he says the mechanic heard a sound when he pulled it in to the garage, and that my left strut and bushing is worn, but is covered under my extended warranty. The thing is, I have to wonder if these things are legit.or whether since they are making no profit on my recall job, that they are coming up with these other things. I bought this used so I don't know what the other party had done to it, but I keep it maintained with the oil changes, and fluids filled, etc. It runs like a top for me and I was surprised when he came up with all of this stuff. Does this sound "right" to you, do you think I really need all of this done at 63,000 miles? I haven't said yes to the repairs yet, I'll wait for your responses. Thank you all for this great forum. :confuse:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I'm inclined to say that I'd seek a second opinion.

    - The trans fluid? Maybe.
    - The plugs? Not likely. I pulled the ones out of our 1998 3.8 at 100,000 miles and they still looked serviceable, not new, but certainly not yet ready for replacement.
    - Cleaning of the throttle body? Our 1998 has 108K and our 2003 has 59K, neither have ever had their throttle bodies cleaned, and both were just recently given a clean bill of health by our local dealership.
    - Left strut and bushing? Hmmm, sounds fishy as well.

    Anybody else?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    Ditto.

    At 63,000 miles your transmission should be serviced. Note: I did not say flushed. Just a pan drop, new filter and refill with ATF+4. They will pressure you to get the flush, but I wouln't do it to my vehicle. Your original spark plugs will last at least another 40,000 miles, don't let them say otherwise. If it runs "like a top", your throttle body dosn't need cleaning. I had a Neon that did benifit from throttle cleaning, but I paid the dealer $7 for the aerosol can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner, and did it myself. As far as the front end work, IF it is a warranty issue, why not? It will cost you the deductable though. Bushings and end links probably are worn, but the left strut is no good?
    They must be replaced in pairs, but like I said, IF it's covered, go for it.
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    Thank you all for your responses. After picking up my Gr. Caravan form the dealer today, the printout of what they say my vehicle is due for,doesn't quite match what the service guy told me on the phone. Here is the updated list: Tune-up with ignition wires,$357.44. Fuel induction cleaning, $249.95. Trans fluid flush, $155.00
    Also says here that front struts are worn, as opposed to their original comment of just the left one. I do believe I will have the front struts done, as they are under warranty, and the transmission filter and fluid change makes sense too, but what about the other items mentioned? Would you think a vehicle with 63,000 miles on it would need the other things?
    Thanks again for responses.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Before we get too much further into this discussion I need to ask, what engine do you have in your van?

    I ask because I just checked the Owner's Manual for our 1998 and Spark Plugs are indeed due for replacement every 30,000 miles for both the Mitsubishi built 3.0 liter V6 as well as the 2.4 liter I4. By the time our 2003 was built the 3.0 V6 was dropped but the 2.4 was still being built (may still be for all I know), and it also required new plugs every 30K miles.

    Now, if you have either of the Chrysler built V6s (3.3 and 3.8) then the 100K tune up applies across the board.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    My engine is a 3.8
    It runs great, with no hesitation, or rough idling whatsoever.
    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Well if you've got the 3.8 then I'd be inclined to make a little noise regarding their assertion that you need plugs and wires and a cleaning of the intake system. Then again I might simply be inclined to run to another dealer or even find a competent independent mechanic. Am I saying that your current dealership is a bunch of crooks? No, not exactly, at least not yet. That having been said, "Where there's smoke, there's usually fire."

    Like I reported yesterday, I had the factory plugs and wires on our 1998 replaced (per the Chrysler recommended maintenance schedule) last October or November after almost exactly 100,000 (99,800 IIRC) miles and over seven years of use. I checked them before I took it in for the 100K service and the wires were still supple with no visible cracks and the three (front) plugs that I pulled still looked good enough to run another 50K miles.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I would still ask them to do the standard transmission service as described in your owners manual. No where does it state that your transmission should be flushed. I've seen dealer coupons for $79.99 for the standard transmission service, so $155.00 for a "flush" is not out of line, but why do it? Also have them do the warranty front end work, and say that you don't have the necessary funds at this time for the engine work. As Shipo said you're good till at least 100,000 miles with the 3.8
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    I had a mechanic tell me once that even though these vehicle's plugs can last 100,000 miles, it's a good Idea to replace them around 60-80,0000 as they have a tendency to get corroded in there at 100,000 miles and are very hard to get out.
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