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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    Hey Tom, (hayneldan)

    You're right. Lately I've been doing a lot of short trips as it's summer and I'm not teaching. But by next month I'll be hitting the highway again every day. Should I still call my dealer and salesperson to have it brought in and get the timing checked? or tuned up? What do u think? I notice your info says u also have a '99 Intrepid. Have u noticed anything worth mentioning? I'm thinking of getting a performance exhaust installed like maybe Flowmaster etc.....!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Stick to the lowest grade gas. Tune up is not necessary because everything is controlled by computer. If something is wrong "check engine" light should come on from the computer sensors. Your nearby auto parts store may have an additive to "decarbonize" the engine. Be sure it is OK for Emission systems including the oxygen sensor. How many miles on your car? My mods on my Candy apple red ES with camel leather include: Exotic wood dash (rosewood) K&N stock filter replacement, Spoiler depot spoiler, and the rear resonator painted flat black with high temp paint. I'm still considering the Dual conversion but might wait till the muffler needs replacement. Bosch platinum plus 4 plugs will be next.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    Tom and all,

    One of my pals also recommended staying with regular or low octane gas as that is what it was designed for originally. Over the past few weeks I was adding premium and some mid-grade AND that was when I began to notice the engine run-on sounds. SO, I'm switching back to regular ASAP.

    I also have the K&N air filter. It makes a far better sound now and feels a bit more spirited. Has anyone used the K&N gold oil filter? I hadn't thought of the Bosch plugs - have they made a noticeable difference?

    I was wondering about the exhaust and mufflers on the Intrepids. Is it stainless steel? I don't even know. I'm thinking of getting the dual exhaust installed. My question is: when the dual conversion is made, does this make for more power, torque, and throatier sound etc? Or is just for looks? :)
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    And Tom my mileage right now is 53000 miles.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I constantly check the 300M board and the opinion there is that the dual exhaust ala Hugo gives the best improvement. It can also be enhanced with a cone type $300 dollar(US) version of the K&N with a direct large tube directly to the throttle body. Some there have also enlarged the throttle body for more airflow. The combination of less incoming restriction and a free flowing exhaust has improved their performance with the added benefit(?) of a better sounding exhaust note. The plus 4 plugs show a slight performance gain. See the sites posted by sdmike and 300Michael. The mods all are not inexpensive. Good Luck.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    It is not clear to me how the residual value is calculated in this survey. Are they using a percentage of MSRP, or some other amount? I'm assuming MSRP, else incentives would not have much impact if based upon the actual out the door price.

    We'll see if VW actually holds that much value in three years. Most banks and lenders have been getting slammed on residual values being overestimated at the time of purchase. To me, VW seems to be the kind of car people want new, but not necessarily as a used car.

    I do agree that the Intrepid's resale will be lower than average based upon MSRP.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    Hey has anyone noticed excessive acid (crust) build-up on the battery terminals? And what is the easiest way to go about cleaning the terminals? The battery is down very low on my '99 2.7 and beneath the air filter box area making it appear arduous to access.

    How does one access the battery easily? (for removal or maintenance etc.)
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Use a long brush and a mixture of baking soda and water, about equal parts of each. Brush the mixture on the corrosion and let it set but do not let it dry. Rinse with plain water. If you don't have a long brush the air cleaner assembly will come out to access the battery. Good Luck.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    Hey has anyone had to top up their coolant/antifreeze? I just noticed mine is a bit below the MIN level. But in buying some of the orange colour coolant, I was told not to use DexCool and that it doesn't work with 98-99 LH D.C. cars. If that's the case, what do I buy?!!
  • nododgesnododges Member Posts: 1
    I had a '93 Intrepid, A/C went out so I traded for a 2000 Intrepid E/S. Big mistake, after 2 years of talking to 2 dealers, a letter to Dodge, and a visit by a factory rep who all insisted my problems were normal. I had transmission probs(jerk), A/C came and went, other things had to be fixed, usually took 2 or more trips to dealer. I expected much higher quality. Their answer was to explain why things were working the way they did and had no concern for my problems. Overall very poor quality...I fixed the problem by trading it in on a 2002 Toyota Camry. The Camry is great!! the quality I expected.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    costenj,

    you can't mix different types of coolant. i'm not sure what dodge specifies for your year intrepid, but the owners manual should tell you...
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    Anybody got one of these?

    I was bummed when I saw how much more you got in this trim level compared to what I paid for the 2002 SE with some options (the group with keyless entry, blah, blah, blah). While I am not a fan of the spoiler and silly looking wheels on the SXT, it comes with the 3.5 engine and similar options, all at the same (or less) than what I paid for my SE with the 2.7.

    But, I guess the one we got looks more the role it fills anyhow, transport of the wife 10 miles to work and back every day.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Yeah, I'm not a big fan of the spoiler or chrome wheels myself. One thing I like about the 2000-2001 R/T's was no chromed wheels or spoiler - just a matter of personal preference.

    I think if I was buying a 2002, I might go for the ES version. You give up only 10 horsepower to the SXT, but you gain a smoother ride, more subdued exterior, and more option choices. I would miss the autostick I have in my 2000 R/T, but you cannot get that in the SXT anyways.

    It seems the ES and SXT are pretty closely priced, are they not?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Here's how they price out...

    SE: $20,810
    ES: $22,970
    SXT: $23,660
    R/T: $27,705

    Add $650 for destination charge

    I remember the sticker on my '00 base was $20,950, and $560 of that was destination. Guess they haven't gone up too much, in general, although the destination charge, as a percentatage, seems like it's been jacked up disproportionately (about 16%)
  • motorsport2motorsport2 Member Posts: 6
    the rt/sxt all have the same horsepower as the 300m/special (although, the 300 special benefits from a better exhaust.. some more ponies). The real only difference is that the cars are all rated on different gas (regular-midgrade-high test.).The sxt lost all the good stuff (drive train components) that the r/t had.
  • motorsport2motorsport2 Member Posts: 6
    well there is nothing like driving a dull, boring, breadbox that your grandparents would drive. And this talking about the exterior only ( i'm not even going to begin to talk about the interior). I guess if you like dull, boring, no lines type of cars then this is the car for you. Although, I would probably walk or ride my bike first.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    ...a few months ago, when my Mom & stepdad were looking at cars. The only thing I'd say it really has over the Intrepid is the fit and finish. The body panels line up better, and the gaps are more even. That's it though. The sheetmetal might as well have "Shotz Brewery" stamped on it...you'd swear it was put out by Laverne & Shirley!! The decklid was so flimsy I could probably bend it out of shape with my bare hands.

    Interior-wise, it had the same seating position of my '89 Gran Fury. So basically, it'd make a fine taxi or police car, if the durability was there for it to put up with that kind of abuse. The Camry is definitely under-tired. The interior quality...I'd put it at okay, but no better than the Intrepid. The Camry looks like it went through some cost cutting with the current style. More hard plastic, thin cloth, etc, than in years gone by.

    Maybe once upon a time, you could say that, oh, an '83 Camry had a nicer interior than an '83 Reliant (in their defense, those old Camries had really nice interiors for the time), but today, I really see no clear-cut advantage to one over the other. Some people will prefer the Camry interior, some the Intrepid.

    The simple fact is there's really not that much difference. For every Dodge horror story out there, there's a Toyota horror story, a Honda horror story, a couple of Nissan horror stories, and 7 or 8 VW horror stories (with assorted sequels) :-P
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Saw a list of 2003 Dodge prices, it only listed two models - SE and SXT.

    I know the R/T is dead, but the ES is coming back, isn't it?
  • motorsport2motorsport2 Member Posts: 6
    The int ES is still alive and kicking. This public service announcement is brought to you by somebody who knows these cars inside out. Anyway, happy motoring.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    The site for my M is at http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ for pictures, the Homestead site has been discontinued.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    The 300M board is working on a group purchase of 9006XS and 9005XS HID conversion kits. Since the Intrepid's use the same bulbs I thought you might be interested. The kit consists of 2 HID bulbs, 2 ballasts, wireing harnesses, and instructions. The kits will go for $340 each if interested you can see the kits at www.midnightmoose.com for info. If interested in the purchase contact me at 300M@eboxmail.net to get on the list. Send no money to me or Midnightmoose (they will bill you) The regular price for the kit is $470. It is on the boards section at www300mclub.org too.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    Can anyone tell me if the 'stabilizer' and 'sway' bars mean the same thing? The dealer has told me my front stabilizer bars need replacing. They then tried to tell me that the GOLD Plan warranty I paid $1700 extra for doesn't cover this!? Does anyone have any ideas as I just bought the car ('99) 2 months ago and I can't believe I have to spend $600 on repairs already!! Shouldn't this be covered under the warranty? Has anyone had any similar experiences?
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Yes the 'stabilizer' and 'sway' bars are the same thing. What I think the dealer wants to change are the sway bar links. The sway bar is just a metal rod, and its almost unheard of these breaking. Now the links attach the sway bar to the front suspension and each link has two pivot points. These wear and need replacing. If he is charging 600 for sway bar links he's crazy. You can change these yourself, each link is held on by two nuts. Hell I have changed a few and its only a 15-30 min job(at most). Find out what he's charging 600 for, if its for just links find another shop.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    ok ottowrkr thanks for the info. Should I replace these links myself? Where would I buy the links etc? How much do they cost to order? Canadian Tire? Do I need to jack the car up with something particular? All I have is the car jack.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    ottowrkr, I checked with the dealer and yes it is the sway bar 'links' that need replacing. And you're right, the cost is way more at the dealer than what my local garage quoted me. I'm still debating what I should do, either try and fix it myself or let the local mechanic do it. I think the mechanic said $200 for parts and labour (I may be wrong, it may be more because they haven't looked at it yet).
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Yes you do need to lift the front of the car up to replace these parts. As for doing it yourself well you will have to make that call. Do you have friends who are good with tools? It is a very easy fix( yeah easy for me to say) but if you don't have the tools , it could be a problem. Call a few parts stores CTC, look in the phone book for auto parts stores in your area . Call them ask if they can get swaybar links for your Trep. Just don't let the dealer take 600 from you , that's way to much for this job. I hate to see dealers doing this to customers. Take care
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Friends.. A while ago I mentioned that my 2000 Intrepid ES was suffering from the sometimes common malady of "shrinking weather/trim strips". I think a number of us had noted that the weather seals around the doors seemed to be shrinking--typically you would notice around the upper right had corner of each door.
    Although my Intrepid will be three years old in November, the service manager at my 5 Star Dealer agreed to replace these for free. I simply pointed out the problem, mentioned that others on my listserv had expressed it, and asked what we might do. He said "order new ones and we'll put them in".. I've not experienced any leaks or increased noise due to these, but I will have them replaced if I don't trade on a new Quad Cab. Hope this helps...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    My 'Trep will be 3 years old in November too, Jason! My door seals started shrinking a bit about a year ago. First, it was just one in the back, but now they've all done it a bit. I do hear a little more wind noise (that's what the volume knob on the stereo is for !), but no water leaks.

    I've got about 69,000 miles on mine though...way beyond the original warrany. And the extended warranty doesn't cover the weatherstripping. I wonder if I'd have any luck with getting the dealer to replace them for free?

    Or heck, I wonder how much the parts would cost? They don't look like they'd be that hard to install myself.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I have no extended warranty and although my mileage is a "reasonable" 37000, it's still beyond the initial period of coverage. I think the service manager is either a good guy, aware of the difficulties with these seals (and a nice guy), or is aware of a TSB that I'm not! I won't argue with his wisdom!
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    2000 Intrepid ES, but I have been away from this topic for some time, but I would like to ask for your collective diagnostic brains...a problem just cropped up, and I wonder if there is a simple answer that has affected numerous Intrepids and Concordes...while driving at night, with the dashboard lights set around medium brightness, the dash lights will intermittenly flash to maximum brightness, like a voltage surge, every 2 or 3 minutes...this goes on for about a half hour, and then stops for a week or two, and then returns...the light that flash are the radio, heat/AC controls, overhead console, speedometer, tach, odometer, trans selector (PRNDL 1234), and the white reading lights in the overhead console...the exterior headlamps are unaffected, always a constant beam...I have heard of people complaining of the lights going completely out and dark, but not the opposite...my lights are momentarily flashing at maximum brilliance, and is very distracting...any thoughts on what could cause this, and where to look for a repair???...thanks

    Bob
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Many on the 300M board have also had the same problem . I think some have had problems with the headlamp switch itself. Others have had the body controller replaced or re-flashed with new software. Hope this helps.
  • klepfiszklepfisz Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 Intrepid ES with 40,000 miles. I bought the car new. One of my friends has owned 2 Intrepids and has had serious trans problems with both beginning at around 60,000 miles. His last Intrepid was a 1998.

    Are there "known" problems with Intrepid transmissions? If so, I might bail before I put to many miles on the car.

    Thanks
    -Jeff
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    marsha7 and ottowrkr,

    interestingly enough, all three of my intrepids (96, 98 and 00) displayed the dashlight "quirk" that marsha mentioned. and i really don't know if there is a definitive way to fix that problem unless the lights go completely out. i hate to say such things but i think it's just the nature of the beast...!
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    jeff,

    proper care and feeding of your tranny will likely net you many miles of trouble free driving. most of the low mileage problems that occur with the 42le tranny (lh car tranny) are due to electronic glitches vs outright total failure. but, i'm sure nothing i could every say would definitively persuade you one way or the other so do whatever you think you need to do...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    ...the earlier LH trannies (all early Mopar 4-speed automatics, for that matter) were pretty troublesome, but they've made improvement after improvement over the years. I think it was around '96-97 that the biggest strides were made, but they've been making running changes ever since.

    I'd say just make sure you have your fluid changed every 30,000 miles, and make sure they put in the correct fluid, and you should be fine. My '00 2.7 has about 69,000 miles on it, and no tranny problems yet! I have a co-worker who has a '94 Eagle Vision with about 147,000 miles, and her transmission is just now starting to go. At that point though, it really doesn't owe her anything!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Marsha. Have exactly the same problem with my 2000 ES though not to the extent you describe. Every so often, the displays you mention will brighten and dim intermittently. This usually occurs for just a few seconds then stops. Other than the feeling that I'm reliving a scene from "The Exorcist", I experience no problems associated with this. I WILL, however, run it by my aforementioned (read: competent and helpful) % star service manager.
    Klepfisz--Discussing "transmission issues" in any Chrysler site can be akin to dropping a plump cat in the midst of a starving kennel of dogs. My advice (after years of trouble free service on many Chrysler transmissions) is to do two things. First--it never hurts to "overdue" preventive maintenance. E.G...if you're not living at or below the poverty, change your transmission filter and fluid every 20-40K. Second, be sure your service folk (if not the dealer) is using the correct version of the fluid mandated for your car. For instance, I have NEVER found the ATF+4 fluid our cars use available at an auto parts store. Be mindful...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I don't know if this is the same issue as the rest of you guys, but my Intrepid's lights will flicker momentarily. I think it happens as the electric fan motor cycles on and off.

    It used to bother me, too, but then one night, while delivering pizzas, and waiting for a particularly slow customer to come to the door, I heard a click come from the car, which was parked behind me in the driveway. The lights dimmed momentarily at the same time, and I could hear the fan start up. Then, after about a minute, there was another click and the car got quiet again.

    I don't know if what you all are experiencing is the same thing, but in my case, I'm pretty sure it's normal. This is the first car I've owned with an electric fan, so it was my first experience with seeing something like this. It's almost like with older cars, when the a/c compressor cycles on and off.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    from your description, it sound like you are referring to the outside lights, which may momentarily flicker due to the amperage drop the moment that the fan or the A/C comes on...this problem is the interior dash lights, which do not flicker normally...or did I misunderstand you???
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    ...in my case, everything would dim momentarily...outside lights and inside lights. I ended up getting so used to it though that I don't even notice it anymore. I'll try to keep an eye out for it the next time I'm driving the car. I'm letting my best friend borrow it right now because his car (a non-Mopar, I must add ;-) is in the shop. I'll look for it though when I get the car back, which I hope is soon, because the gas mileage on my NYer is killing me!
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    99% of the transmission is due to a falty Input or output sensor. The part costs around $20 and is is something you can do yourself (well most people can do). You will be driving and suddenly the trans will go into second gear and stay there. Or what they call limp mode.
  • jbriesejbriese Member Posts: 4
    Looking for some advice, looked at a 1995 Intrepid es, here's the kicker, cost $3000.00, milage-125,000, air conditioning re done, car was a rental for about the first 25,000 mile. The car seems to run well, drive well, but that mileage is really scaring me according to all other posts. Just looking for something to get back and forth to his job on weekend. what the groups advice, back away cautiously?
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    125,000 miles scares the hell out me with any vehicle. but if it's just a work car...go for it.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I generally would suggest a smaller car that is better on gas (less expensive to maintain).for a younger driver. I would have an independ mechanic check over the vehicle (this goes for any vehicle) to minamize any problems
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    jbriese,

    i have the best idea...get your son a waay overpriced toyota that will cost a bundle to fix...i think they are called lexi...uhh or something...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    ...you're going to take a chance on ANYTHING that has 125,000 miles on it. I've owned a few cars with mileage that high and higher, but the clincher is that I never paid very much for any of them. The most expensive was a 1968 Dart with 253,000 miles on it that I paid $1700 for, but it had an engine that only had about 10,000 miles on the rebuild, and a more recent tranny and rear end.

    I also had a '79 Newport with about 230,000 miles on it, that I paid $250 for. When it needed a new tranny, it didn't come as too much of a shock! Then again, a tranny for that thing was only $650. I'd be a bit more leery about paying $3000 for something, and then have the possibility of turning around and sinking another $2000+ for a new tranny. When you only pay a few hundred bucks for an old car, it's easy to cut it loose when it starts getting unreliable. That's not so easy to do though, if you sink $3000 or so into an old car! There's more incentive to keep pumping more money into it, simply because you paid a lot of money for it in the first place.

    I'd personally probably stay away from that '95. Not because it's an Intrepid, but just because it's high-mileage and 8 model years old, and is going to cost a lot of money when something does break. I think there are just better values out there.
  • eeeleeel Member Posts: 57
    I currently own 3 lh cars - an 02 Concorde, an 01 Intrepid R/T and a 93 Eagle Vision. I also owned a 95 & 98 Intrepid. The tranny's have been flawless for me. I currently have 154k on the 93 Vision. Fluid replacement (correct fluid !!!) is paramount to long life.

    I also have a client who had a fleet of 1st gen Intrepids which were replaced with 2nd gen Intrepids, all reached over 100k and NO tranny failures.

    For them,the Intrepdis have been the cheapest fleet to run. They previously used Taurus' and Accords. The Accords actually did the worse (tried only in the Michigan area).

    They still use Intrepids as their fleet vehicles.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    ?????????????????????????????
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Morning Gang.. Did 1200 miles in my 2000 ES over the long weekend and thought I'd report. With a rolling speed range of 70 to 80-85 I averaged about 25.4 on the one half of the trip and 26.6 on the other leg. Ran across some relatively "cheap" 93 Octane premium and decided to try it out. I won't make any attributions about that contributing to the mileage increase. No real discernible difference in performance--I just seem to need to prove that to myself every year or so...
    I'm about to send my car in to have the door seals replaced (shrinkage), the transmission drained, filter replaced and refilled, oil change, and the front brakes replaced. I'd be very interested in those of you who have replaced break pads. Did you use Mopar or Bendix or some other aftermarket pad? Be well...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    ...a few weeks ago. The original equipment pads up front lasted to about 39,000 miles. I put cheap aftermarket pads on from Trak Auto. I don't think I even paid $30.00 for all of 'em...front and rear. Bought 'em when the car had about 24,000 miles on it, figuring that, they way I drove back then (delivering pizzas) I'd go through them in record time. I was actually shocked then, that I didn't have to put them on until 39K! The back ones were put on at 51K.

    This last time around, at 69,000 miles, I bought some fairly expensive ($55.00) Bendix semi-metallic pads that are supposed to have a lifetime warranty. It'll be interesting to see how long they last compared to the cheapo pads, which I got 30K out of up front. I have noticed that the car seems to stop a bit quicker, and more assuredly, than it did with the cheapo pads. You get what you pay for, I guess!
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    hey boyz,

    I just found a good mechanic to fix my sway bars and also repaired an A/C leak all for $275 CDN (not bad) on my '99 2.7 Trep.

    BUT, here's my latest question for u all: on my highway drive to work in rush hour,the stop-and-go traffic seems to wreak havoc with my tranny. The constant touching the gas and then braking moments later causes the tranny to bump into and out of gear, not super hard, but it produces a jerky effect.

    Is this common? It does cause me some consternation as I've read about tranny problems. Is this 'jerky' effect common to this car or all cars in rush hour? My old Tempo did this too but my g/f's '91 Shadow is very smooth. Should I replace the trans fluid? I bought the car 3.5 months ago.

    Any info is appreciated. Thanks
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