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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • motorsport2motorsport2 Member Posts: 6
    whats the mileage on the car ? are you the original owner of the car ? If you replace the tranny fluid check owners manual ( either atf 3 or atf 4 fluid ) and be sure to use right fluid. I would definetly replace tranny filter also. I replaced fluid and filter myself ( cost me about 35.00 ) dealer charges 165.00 need help e-mail me.
  • tanveermtanveerm Member Posts: 42
    Hi all,

    I'm in the market for a new mid-size and was wondering if I could hear opinions from Intrepid owners on their purchases. Most of the buyer guides are critical of recent Chrysler products in general and I don't think I've seen the Intrepid on any publications "Recommended" or "Best Buy" list, build quality being cited as a major concern. Just wanted to hear opinions from buyers of recent model Intrepids. With zero-percent financing, this car is more affordable than a V6-equipped Honda/Toyota midsize. I love the styling, but the practical side of me is worried about quality and Chrysler's customer service levels. Thanks in advance.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    ...but doesn't Consumer Reports rank the Intrepid as average or slightly better, nowadays? I know Consumer Guide has the 'Trep on their best buy lists...at least it was in the 2002 edition of their book that my uncle bought, when he was in the market for a car back in May.

    From what I've heard, the worst Intrepids (and all LH cars) were the '93-95 models. I think it was '96 when they started finally putting some real improvements into the tranny. '97 was better yet, and 1998 was one of the most trouble-free all-new car launches the Big 2.5 have probably put out since the Chevy Caprice, way back in 1977!

    They've continued to make running improvements to the tranny since '98 as well, so basically, the newer the model, the better the tranny.

    Engines never were an Intrepid weak spot, although I believe some of the earlier 3.5's had a tendency to lose the water pump prematurely. A/C problems were common on early models, and back when they used plastic front fenders, they'd warp.

    I bought an '00 Intrepid, and if I had it to do over again, I think I'd still pick it over any of its competitors. GM build quality today is all over the map...they're probably the only company that can roll one car off the assembly line that's as good as the best that's ever come out of Japan, and then have the next one be so bad it makes the '70's build quality look good! I never was much of a Ford man, and the Taurus really doesn't do anything for me, anyway. The only things I'd do differently would be to get a power seat and a bigger engine, so today, I'd probably go for an ES or SXT instead of a base model.
  • tanveermtanveerm Member Posts: 42
    Thanks for the feedback. When you purchased your 2000 intrepid, did you consider the Accord/Camry duo or any other non-Big 3 make? WOuld you consider them today?

    And you are right about the Consumer Guide review....they did give a 2002 Best Buy in the large sedan class to the Intrepid. I'm not sure about Consumer Reports. I have their 2002 used car guide and they rate the 2001 Intrepid as a risky buy - not sure why though.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    hey Mike,

    the mileage on my car is 90,000Km and I just bought it off of a lease (83,000Km) and I'm the second owner. I don't know if the trans fluid + filter was replaced before I got it. The level appears ok and the colour is still pinkish red etc. The funny thing too is that the car didn't even have an owner's manual when I got it so I don't know what type of fluid BUT I figure mechanics or the dealer would know. I still haven't received the owner's manual yet from the dealer.

    How did you replace the fluid yourself? I don't know that much about servicing my vehicles (mechanically-speaking that is) -- is it easy enough? If I get the filter and fluid replaced should it result in a smoother tranny? Let me know what u recommend here as I can't seem to locate where to find your email address.....Thanks
    ---Costen
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    When you are going to change the trans fluid , use the ATF+4 stuff its better than the ATF+3 you have in there now. Yes you have to get under the car to chamge your fluid. The pan on the bottom of the trans must be removed to get to the filter. You might want to get a shop to do this for you , unless you have jack stands , a jack and a basic set of tools . Your call.
    Yes you should have a better shifting trans once it has been changed.
  • costenjcostenj Member Posts: 14
    ok thanks ottowrkr, I will most likely get it changed soon....hey are the Mr. Lube places good for that? That's where I usually get my oil changed and I know they do trannys too. Would they have the ATF+4 fluids? (I should probably give them a call...)
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    .Sorry I cant comment on Mr. Lube as I have no experience with this company.I am sure they would stock ATF4 . Just make sure before you get it done
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    ...If I had to buy a new car today, I'd at least give the new Accord and Camry a look. Back when I bought my Intrepid though, the Camry and Accord just felt too small inside for my tastes. The Camry's front seats felt under-sized and uncomfortable, and the Accord was a bit tight in the back.

    Usually, I'm the only one in the car, but I've had enough instances where I've had 3 or 4 passengers, so I like a car with a little room to it. I usually have to drive with the seat all the way back, and can't stand having someone's knees in the seatback!

    I did have a chance to look at an '02 Camry back in May, when I went with my family looking at new cars. My Mom & Stepdad were thinking about one. The seats feel more comfortable and supportive...oddly enough, they felt like the seats in my old '89 Gran Fury! Main problem though, is that the new Camry felt tight on legroom up front to me. I'm 6'3", and kinda long in the legs, so legroom is pretty critical to me. I also wasn't too crazy about the Camry in general, though. I'm sure it will be reliable, and everything lined up the way it should, but it just felt cheapened, compared to previous Camrys. I guess to keep prices affordable, they're starting to use cheaper bits, so maybe it's not all bad, but this particular one I sat in just didn't feel like it was vastly superior to any other car out there.

    I haven't seen an '03 Accord in person yet. I think they're kinda ugly in pictures, but I'll reserve final judgement until I've seen them in person and gotten accustomed to them.

    Actually, if I were going for a Japanese car in that range, I'd probably go for a Nissan Altima! I like the styling better than the Accord and Camry, and the seating position was better for me than the Camry. I drove one back in March, and it felt like it had more legroom up front than the Intrepid! It was pretty gutsy for a 4-cyl too, although it was pretty noisy at idle and hard acceleration. Eerily quiet at highway speeds, though.

    In the end though, I think I still like the Intrepid the best. It has the longest wheelbase, and I believe the widest track, too, compared to the likes of the Impala, Camry, Accord, Taurus, Altima, etc. It might all be in my mind, but I think that just makes the car feel more stable and sure-footed when driving.

    I've also had pretty good luck with Chrysler products in the past, so as long as I don't get screwed over by them, I'll give 'em first shot when it comes time to get a car.
  • tanveermtanveerm Member Posts: 42
    I think I might have to take my wife on a test-drive of the Intrepid and Accord before I can decide. It's either going to be a 2001 or '02 Accord with low mileage or a new Intrepid with discount financing, I think. I just wish I could find some assurance that Intrepid quality has increased these last few years, cause I still hear more horror stories on the Intrepid/Concorde faimly than on the Accord series.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Do the TREP .
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    tanveerm,


    one thing to think about is the very long warranty you get with dodge. 3yr-36k bumper to bumper plus 7yr-70k powertrain. honda still only offers 3yr-36k bumper to bumper with nothing else. unless you happen to own one of those hondas with faulty trannies...for those particular cars honda has extended the warranty to 7yr-100k. you can read all about it here:


    http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0209/23/autos-593168.htm

  • tanveermtanveerm Member Posts: 42
    Thanks for the opinions, all. I had been following the Honda transmission problems before Honda's announcement, so it was not a surprise to me.

    In Canada, the warranties for Chrysler and Honda are alot similar, with the exception that Honda has 5 yrs on powertrain, while Chrysler currently is offering a 7yr warranty. Unfortunately, I don't think that on its own is enough to win me and my better half. I love the style of the Trep, its capacity and its ride, but my wife is playing devil's advocate and I haven't been able to convince her (or myself) that quality and financial/resale value is close for the two. Oh well. Every choice has trade-offs and sacrifices. I think I'll be in the market for an '02 Accord EX V6. Happy driving, everyone.
  • ravenoneravenone Member Posts: 20
    Where has the Autostick gone? No Dodge offers for 2003, that I can discern. What about Chrysler? Does the 300 & Sebring Sedan still offer it? Will the LX cars offer Autostick or the MBZ 5-Speed Manualmatic?

    Thanks,

    Raven
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    You are correct , Dodge Intrepids no longer offer A/Stick ?? . The 300M is the only LH that still has it. "Will the LX cars have A/Stick" ,I would think so. But who knows with DC.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    i would presume the sportier versions of the upcoming LX cars would include the mercedes tranny version of autostick??
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    hey otto,

    anything going on at the plant in prep for the coming of the LX cars next fall...?
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Oh yeah , they are expanding the Trim area of the plant as we speak. They have crews working all over , every weekend and I guess also these two weeks that we are laid-off. I cant wait to see what these cars look like .
  • ehaaseehaase Member Posts: 328
    I rented an Intrepid while in Florida the last few days, and I was very impressed with the car. The 2.7L felt smoother and more powerful than Ford's 3.0L Duratec, and it got 24 mpg driving in congested traffic on Florida's A1A. The body structure was solid, and the ride was smooth. The only thing I didn't like is that I can't see the hood from the driver's seat. I would definitely consider this car and would be content with the base engine.
  • eeeleeel Member Posts: 57
    Don't over estimate Honda's quality. All cars can give you trouble. The premature engine failure in Toyota's you will also hear about in the future for Honda. I've known about the tranny problems for awhile now.

    The NTSA has a top 10 list of so called lemons - the cars with the most complaints and Honda has 3 in the top 10. Audi is high on the list, too.

    And even Consumer Reports recommends it now.

    The Intrepid is an awful lot of car for the money. You can get them close to invoice and with a rebate on top we're talking a sweet price with an exceptional warranty. If you want an extended you can also get them for 100.00 over cost (850.00 or so for 7/75k $50 deductible).

    I've purchased 5 LH cars since 1993 - all new - and all have been exceptional to me. Still have our 93 Eagle Vision with 154k and still running strong. My maintenance costs are as low as any
    vehicles I've owned. And like most people, when it comes to cars I've had some good ones, some not so good ones and of course the ones we'd all like to forget.

    We also currently own an 01 Intrepid R/T and an 02 Concorde.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    5 LH cars , great to hear. So you have an RT , have you ever checked out ?
    http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/news.php

    If not check it out , there are some really great Trep owners on this site. Some of the guys do a lot of custom stuff to the cars. There is even one guy who has supercharged his Trep.
  • integraturbo88integraturbo88 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Intrepid 94,000 miles on it. Everything thing looks like it is hanging together. I have the STD model. I was wondering if anybody would know the 0-60 time for this model or an estimate.

    Also anybody who wants to help me out can you please tell me about a good sounding exhaust for this car. Im thinking about Dynomax Ultraflo but.. I dont know just wondering if anybody has any info. Thanks for helping.
  • amurphy2amurphy2 Member Posts: 1
    Help. We are looking to buy a 2002 Intrepid R/T.
    Can anyone tell me how good the auto stick is?
    Is this just something extra that can go wrong in this car? Would you recommend this? We are not really into speed but may be able to get a pretty sweet deal on this car. Someone mentioned they are not in the 2003 models, do you think this is due to problems? Thank you...
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Nothing problem related, Chrysler just keeps decontenting the cars to make the money go farther and farther. Problem is, things are seeming cheaper and cheaper in the meantime. Every auto manufacturer does it, just not to this level usually.

    The 2002 R/T is a great car though, and sure to be a rare item indeed, as they're no longer produced, again because of budget. Good luck with the purchase!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I'm sure they're going to vary from source to source, but I've heard that the 3.3 in the first-gen LH cars was good for somewhere around the 11 second mark. I think the 3.5 was around 9.2.
  • stingray4stingray4 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking to buy a good used car with a little power (no 4-cylinders) and ran across a '99 Intrepid with 30K miles on it. It seems to be in great shape (what can you tell in a 10 min. test drive). Can anyone out here give me some things to look and listen for? The price on the vehicle is going to be about $11,500. Blue book is a little lower but I'm assuming the low miles boost the price some. BTW, this is an ES.

    Thanks.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    ...for an ES model. Does it have the 2.7 V-6 or the 3.2?

    At 30,000 miles, it's probably due for a tranny service, just as preventive maintenance. Also, I needed new tires on my '00 by 30,000 miles, so it may be ready for that, too. Check the brakes too, to see how much meat is left on the pads.

    In addition, play with the power windows and locks a bit to make sure they all work. I've heard that they've been troublesome on some models. I've got about 70,000 miles on my '00 though, and all 4 windows are still good. I did have the power lock actuator in the driver's door replaced though, under warranty at 35K miles.

    Other trouble spots I've had: passenger-side power mirror (stopped working around 43K miles), thermostat housing (small leak, replaced around 51K miles), and the rubber door frame seals (started shrinking up a bit around 45K miles or so)

    Overall though, I've been pretty happy with mine. Good luck!
  • stingray4stingray4 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for your reply.

    Yes, it is the 3.2 Liter. the dealership puts it thru a 115 pt. inspection to make sure it passes inspection here in UT and the mechanic that I took it to said everything will pass this year on inspection but who knows on next year. Didn't really say.

    The price is going to be even lower than what I thought and it looks like most of the maintenance has been done previously. Thanks for the info on the things to check. I did check the windows, locks, and mirrors. They work.

    Do you have any idea on what might be left on the warranty? I expect the 3/36 has expired but do these have a 7/70 Power train warranty on them as well?

    Thanks in advance.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    ...but when I bought my '00, they only had a 3/36K warranty. It was probably the same in 1999, though.

    I've never bought a used car that was still new enough to have a warranty...most of mine were as-is cars, some of 'em older than me! I'd guess that the norm nowadays for a used car warranty is 3 months or 3000 miles. I'm sure they'll offer an extended warranty though, for a price.

    When I bought mine, I bought an extended warranty that bumped it out to 5 years/100K miles. Back then, I drove a lot, so I figured I'd run through the 3/36K warranty in record time. I did...in about 14 months! I've slowed down my driving lately though, only putting about 24K on in the following 21 months, and that includes two trips from Maryland to Texas. Sometimes I wish I hadn't bought the extended warranty. I haven't used it yet, but then I guess the best kind of warranty is the one you never have to use!

    As for yearly inspections, I'm lucky I guess, because in Maryland you only have a car inspected once, when you first purchase it. I hear our inspections are much tougher though. About a year ago, I bought a '79 Chrysler New Yorker in West Virginia, from a small dealer. The guy said he'd guarantee it to pass inspection in Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia (all have yearly inspections) but not Maryland! I guess those states w/ yearly inspections must go fairly easy on cars!
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    Well, the wife decided she wanted to back the 2002 Intrepid into something the other night. Got a few gouges in the plastic on the bumper. Any thoughts as to whether I should cover them with touch up paint or let them be?

    I'm leaning toward dabbing them with the paint, as it is only a couple of them, down through the color to the dark gray plastic, and they are no more than 2" long at most. Figured this, at least, would help to protect from the elements somewhat.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Check to see if you can get an extended service plan on it, usally after 36K you can not. I would still have a another shop give it the once over.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    On my 00 R/T, the plastic underneath is white. I scratched my bumper - my sister who is a State Farm agent, and former claims adjuster, estimated it at about $250 - she said it will never rust, and will probably get more scratches and what not. I've never done anything to them, and nothing has really happened.

    Just get some touch up paint, or else shell out the $250-$300, I guess.
  • badvicbadvic Member Posts: 1
    Sticker is $24,220 on an intrepid ES with antilocks brakes as the only $600 option on this car. Dealer is offering it at $19,550 via fleet/internet manager. I think that's pretty good. anyone getting better deals on 2002?

    Can I get it lower?
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    Thanks for the input jsylvester...I bought the paint, so I guess I may as well cover them up.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    ...has scratches aplenty on both the front and rear fascia. I've left them alone and none of them have gotten any worse.

    I've heard that on some cars, if you let it go too long, the paint will peel off as you're driving and the wind gets under it. I haven't experienced that yet, though! Maybe that's just on metal parts that aren't designed to flex. I seem to recall one of the Edmund's editors saying that a good chunk of paint peeled off the hood of a Taurus after something chipped it.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    A word to the wise--and a word of warning. Now I know where 50% of the "supposed" Chrysler transmission failures come from. I needed some work done to my 2000 ES with 41000 miles. Needed new front brake pads, oil/filer, tires rotated and 4 wheel alignment. As a "treat", and to aid in preventive maintenance, I decided to change the transmission fluid and filter. After shopping a bit I decided to use a local auto service center. They had done good work in the past, were always prompt and reasonable, and were cheaper than having the dealer do the service.
    Because I looked in their "retail" shop for ATF+4, and they didn't carry it, I made a point of telling the service manager (both service managers) that I would purchase the ATF+4 from the dealer and leave it in the back seat.. Fast forward. Dropped the car off this morning and went to pick her up this afternoon. As I was reading the receipt I noticed under the tranny service..."ATF 3"... When I confronted the service manager, he said "yes we put it in".. When I mentioned the ATF+4, he seemed confused. In fairness, it was the female service manager that wrote up the order and heard my dissertation on ATF+4. The service manager, after some clarification and an admonition to "read the damn owners manual" apologized, ordered a case of ATF+4, flushed the tranny again and filled it with the proper fluid.
    Folks...I can't stress this enough.. Unless a Chrysler/Dodge dealer is doing the service, remind, Remind, REMIND them that it MUST be ATF+4... +4 will work in vehicles requiring +3 and +2, but NOT the other way round. Most auto center/auto store are NOT carrying +4. The dealer charged me over $5 a quart, so it is expensive stuff. Regardless, be vigilant!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I hope I didn't scare everyone off... Are you all out checking your transmission fluid.....
  • fuzzer34fuzzer34 Member Posts: 28
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "99 300M"
    Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.chrysler
    Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 12:38 PM
    Subject: 3.5 in 300M: Oil filter interchange note

    > Just changed my oil and thought some of you may find this interesting.
    > The "original" spin on oil filter size first used on Chryslers in 1959
    > (when they switched to the wedge engine) will fit the 3.5 in the 300M.
    > (It will probably fit any 3.2 or 3.5 in 98 and up LH cars. I didn't
    > have any clearance problems on my 300M.) This filter will give you
    > roughly 65% more filter area than the stock filter and increase your
    > oil capacity by about half a quart. Bypass valve specs are the same
    > (8-10 psi), thread size is the same, as is the ID and OD of the
    > gasket. Only difference is the size of the filter and the filter
    > media inside.
    >
    > Here are some common part numbers if you'd like to use this larger
    > filter:
    >
    > SuperTech ST8A
    > Motorcraft FL1A
    > Wix 51515
    > NAPA 1515
    > Purolator PureOne PL30001
    > AC Delco PF2
    >
  • fuzzer34fuzzer34 Member Posts: 28
    I see you got 41K on your Intrepid. Did you get those miles on the original pads? I have 34K on my R/T...and the pads are near the end...
    What brand did you end up replacing them with? OEM?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I got about 39,000 miles out of my original brake pads, so I guess my results are pretty close to Jason's. That first 39,000 miles was pretty rough though, as I delivered pizzas back then, with lots of stop-and-go driving.

    For my second set, I went the cheap route and got some from Trak Auto. They lasted about 30,000 miles. Now I have some Bendix brake pads, that ran about $55.00. I see a definite difference in stopping. The car seems to stop quicker and more assuredly.

    That's interesting that the oil filter for the wedge engine will fit the 3.5. The big block wedge actually came out in 1958, as the 350 and 361 in Dodge and DeSoto models, and a hi-po 350 for the Plymouth Fury. I've had a few cars with the smallblock wedge over the years, and did notice that the filters for the Intrepid seemed similar, but never bothered to try swapping anything. I know I've got to have a few extra ones around, so I might try it the next time I change the oil.

    There's something else that will swap onto the LH cars from the '57-59 Mopars, and just about every RWD Mopar car built since then, except for some compacts and Imperials...the wheels! Not that anybody would want to do this, but the Intrepid has the same 4.5" bolt pattern that Chrysler has used for years.

    Now I doubt that too many people would want to swap the rims off an old car onto an Intrepid! The cop car wheels might be kinda cool, because they're wide and really stick out, but then they're heavy, and might cause clearance problems. But if anybody has an older Mopar, and wants to upgrade to more modern rims, LH rims might be a good choice!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    When I had my car inspected they said I had about 5K miles left on the pads. They were working adequately but decided to have them replaced with Bendix. Bendix is the "premium" option at the auto shop I use. Front pads replaced including labor for $119 with a lifetime warranty. The difference is startling--brakes were always strong but I did an emergency stop yesterday and locked the fronts BEFORE the ABS could kick in to compensate. Very strong braking...
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    A while back we had some discussion about gas mileage. Thought I'd try to resurrect that... Since my service week before last (synthetic oil and new filter, transmission flush/filter and--eventual--refill with ATF+4, alignment, rotation, brake pads) my "city" mileage has increased a bit. I used to average about 17.5-18.4 in town. Granted it's considerably cooler and I'm not running the A/C but I'm getting about 20.4-21.5 in town at the present time. That's quite a bit better--for the first time--than the 19 listed on the sticker. Hmmm...perhaps the break in period is really 41,000 miles??
    I'll be taking another long trip this weekend and will report...
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    2000 ES with 3.2 and Autostick and the aforementioned 41K miles...
  • fuzzer34fuzzer34 Member Posts: 28
    Just took a long trip up to Niagara, NY last weekend. I got upwards of 31 MPG highway on my 3.5L R/T. That was doing 70-80 mph with the defroster to antifog the windshield. I thought that was pretty good, haven't ever gotten that high of MPG....and that was on 3 tankfulls. The more I drive this car, the more I like it. :) Guess I'll be getting Bendix pads for the R/T, thanks for the info Jason5.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Thanks for responding...31 highway? That's mighty impressive--don't think I've ever come close to that. Highest I ever got was a trip to MD on a cool Spring day. Got out early and was way ahead of schedule so set the cruise at about 67, averaged 28.9... Regarding the brake pads--I THINK the R/T uses a different brake pad (HI-PERF.) than the ES or SE.. If I recall it may be the same pad as the performance package on the 300M.. I think the Bendix pads would give you reasonably similar performance--but you might want to check with the service manager or a mechanic---just pray that they are "car guys/gals".. Be well..
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Good point on the oil filters. I have them using the 1A size since I purchased my 99 M. I do not know why Chrysler just didn't go with these in the first place.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    It is a lot cheaper to purchase the +4 for and extra $3 then paying $1000 to have the transmission worked on later.
  • alvey1alvey1 Member Posts: 8
    Mileage: My 99 ES with all the tricks and 3.2 gets 34mpg at 55mph on 2 lane back-road jaunts. At 80mph, I drop to 29mpg. Guess I'm in the ballpark with the rest of you.

    Brake Pads: I have 47,000 miles and original brake pads.

    Problems: electric lock actuator, electric fan motor, front wheel bearing. THAT'S ALL. The extended warranty runs out in another 3,000 miles so I'm going to really look and listen for ANYTHING that might become a problem later.

    Love the handling, overall performance, and looks. Would buy it again and have recommended the model to others.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I got about 363 miles out of the last tank, and it took just under 14.6 gallons to fill up. That comes out to just under 25 mpg. About 100 of those miles was coming home from Pennsylvania. Gas is a little cheaper up there than in Maryland, not to mention a little safer to pump, as the sniper hasn't hit up there (yet). Another 100 was driving down to my Mom's house and back to get a pickup she sold me. I really wouldn't call it highway driving...too many stoplights, but not exactly city driving either.

    The other 160 was just riding back and forth to work, running errands, etc.

    The best I've ever gotten in the just under 71,000 miles I've had the car is just over 30 mpg, on a trip with 3 people on board, and driving right around 65 mpg. Worst was just under 20, and that was delivering pizzas in bad weather, running on oxygenated gas.

    I think I'm averaging around 22-23 overall.

    Alvey1, I had the power lock actuator fail too! It went out around 35,000 miles, just before the original 3/36K warranty was up.
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