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Comments
Try cleaning the throttle body. See message #354 on how to do it yourself. You might also want to change the spark plugs, air filter, and PCV valve depending on engine type, mileage, and/or the last time they were changed.
Any ideas?
Do you know of anywhere I could find this diagnosis in black and white (such as a manual) so that I can show it to him?
Thanks
Thanks Again,
Mark
They once realigned the striker or something like that, but it did nothing.
I do not have a power hatch release.
This is definitely 'excessive force' on my van-it takes two hands to close. If you are holding something in one, it is impossible to close.
This was the only real problem with the van. Even though it was a rental, it was in good shape.
Thanks Again,
Mark
I assumed that your van was still under warranty. I only use my hatch a couple of times per week, but I would imagine a rental gets used many times each day. I would just go to Pep Boys and buy a new pair of props. Just be careful not to smash out the rear window while installing them.
Thanks Again Scanner,
Mark
You can tell I need to get a copy of the idiots guide to car engines.
Thanks,
Mark
Here's an excerpt right out of "How Chrysler minivans work."
"The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) determines idle speed on all engines. It actuates a stepper motor and valve in the throttle body to change idle air flow. This valve is also used to fine-tune air flow to avoid engine surge when the air conditioning system compressor cycles on
and off. On V-6 engines, a Dual Idle Speed system minimizes idle fuel consumption. These engines idle at 625 rpm in Drive when lightly
loaded, that is when the air conditioner or electric rear window defroster are off. This reduces idle fuel consumption by 10%,
increasing (Environmental Protection Agency) combined city and highway driving economy by about 2%. Dual Idle Speed software in the PCM
monitors engine operation and increases idle speed automatically to 680 rpm if necessary to provide sufficient power to meet air conditioning
and electrical system needs. The electrical load compensation feature assures that all electrical requirements are met without draining the
battery or resorting to a more powerful, heavier alternator. The idle speed is increased to 680 rpm if air conditioning is on (compressor button pressed) or if electrical system voltage falls below 13 volts. It returns idle speed to the lower value when battery voltage returns to
normal."
---------------------------------------------
Sounds like another possible cause of your hiccups could be a weak battery. Have your battery load tested.
Quaker State markets trans fluid for late model Chrysler's, it's labeled ATF+3 for most Chrysler vehicles. The label states to be used where MS 7176 is specified, also for Hyundai and Mitsubishi
2. Disconnect the battery cables. Let it sit for the same 2 days. If it still is discharged to the point that it won't operate the car, then I'd guess an internal battery problem (e.g. bad cell).
If it is OK then I'd suspect some kind of parisitic drain from something in the car (bad diode in the alternators rectifier, alarm system, etc.).
3. Be sure that anytime you have disconnected the battery or it has died to the point where you lose radio station memory/clock setting, that you start the car with all accessories off and let it idle for several minutes. This allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to relearn conditions. See www.obdii.com for details.
best of luck
Well, I have also owned a 1990 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser wagon which has 48,000 miles in it. So far it's starting to have many problems lately for engine, cooling, fuel, and brakes. If I drived about 48,000 miles in one year after the new vehicle purchase, I wouldn't have any problems at all.
So I have know that even though you have 30,000 miles in your vehicle, it has about the same repair rate as 200,000 miles in it. My advise is to keep driving your vehicle if you want to have many miles in the odometer as early as possible.
1) COOLING FANS IN-OPP
2) MOPAR BATTERY COMPLETELY SHORTED INTERNALLY
3) WATER PUMP FAILURE
4) NEW MOPAR BATTERY COMPLETELY SHORTED INTERNALLY
5) COOLING FANS IN-OPP/ A/C Failing
When I get a full top 10 List I'll send it to letterman.
OF course this is only the failed vehicle list the odds and end problems are endless.
THIS IS TRULY A FINE AUTOMOBILE WHEN COMPARED WITH THE HIGH QUALITY CARS PRODUCED IN THE EARLY 70's such as the DODGE ASPEN!!
DROP $30K on the Toyota or Honda Counter and get what you pay for!!
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
BATTERY SHORTED OUT INTERNALLY
Caravan:
Valve taps and piston slaps on start-ups.
That's one of the reasons for the 5-W30 to get the oil flowing faster to quiet that loose engineering!
I also notice that the GC is below others in engine HP, the 3.3 has 158, the others have an average of 185. Is this van under powered? Any help would be appreciated...
I have been reading for awhile and am a bit wary now of the Caravan. I am in the market for a minivan and have found a 1995 Caravan SE with 79,977 miles on it for $6,995. The milage seems low for a minivan, does anyone have any comments or tips they could give me to see if this is a good deal? (Don't worry I will have a mechanic look at it first)
Thanks!!
Hope it helps
Shawn
Since my local Autozone has been running a month long special for 5 qts of Exxon with generic filter for $5.99 (!!), I've stocked up. Why test when I can just change it for less than the cost of the test?
Also-what are your opinions on oil weights? Do you think it makes a difference to run 10w-30 rather than 5w-30? Interesting differences in recommendations between the 3.3 van and the 3.5 300M. Van says use 10w from 0F to 100F+. 300M says do NOT use 5w above 32F. Obviously, much different engines, rev ranges etc., but still seems odd that the recommendations are so different.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/stall.html
The problem is that the valve leaks, resulting in loss of vacuum, which leads to drop in speed as there is no vacuum to increase engine speed when required on an upslope. Sometimes it is a small leak, so the problem manifests itself only if the upslope is after a long steady level drive and not in continuously sloping terrain.
After speaking to engineer at Equilon (Texaco/Shell and makes the fluids for Chrysler) and the lab tech at my spectrographic analysis vendor, I am convinced that the silicon is sand tailings left over from casting and the lab tech indicates that some is leeching from gaskets and sealants. States that this might not be just a Chrysler problem - sees on other OEMs too.
I have been unable to contact a DC engineer in QC or other area.
The engine of my 1996 GCSE with 3.3L continues to have clean analysis at 67,000.
Both transmissions have been powerflushed again. The 2000 at the dealer and the 1996 at Penske (to get out the Mercon/Dexron they put in by mistake).
I now have about 1,000 miles on the new transmission fluid and will be taking samples tomorrow. When I get them back in about 10 days, I will be sending a letter to the President of DC with all the details and asking for an explanation for the high silicon levels.
Why do spectrographic analysis when you can change oil for less $$$? If you have a coolant leak (e.g. head gasket going) or fuel contamination in the oil (e.g. bad injector) or an internal, lubricated part going (e.g. bearing, valve guide, etc.) you won't know until too late unless you do periodic analysis.
Also, transmission power flushes are $80-160 depending on who does it. Just one flush would pay for 12 analysis kits.
I am all for prompt oil changes, but what you don't know can hurt you.
$7.50 is cheap insurance
best of luck
PS My next crusade once I get the silicon figured out is to determine why my 1996 gets 20 mpg mixed driving and my 2000 gets 16 mpg for same.