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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    in reading your profile, cfazzari, I see you're turning your Intrepid over to your two 15 year olds when they hit driving age? And you "only" have ~150,000 miles on your Trep? Sorry to tell you this buddy, but there ain't no way that car's gonna go another 150,000 or so in the hands of a couple of teenagers! :P

    Still, as long as you take care of it, you never know. If I were to lay odds, I'd say that two things that would fail before the engine do would be the transmission and the air conditioning. Chrysler's traditionally been a bit weak in the 4-speed automatic tranny department, but these days, they just don't build transmissions in general like they used to. Nowadays they make them compact and lightweight, so that they don't take up much space, and don't sap too much horsepower. Although I've heard that the Chrysler unit actually "dumps" some of the hp along the way to the wheels, because it's not quite strong enough to handle high hp. Or, at least that's the way it was for awhile.

    And as far as air conditioning goes, it's not that Chrysler units are bad (I think the same company sources both Chrysler and Honda a/c), but just, as the car ages, a/c just seems to be one of those things that inevitably goes! Also, on the quest to 300,000 miles, I'd also expect an alternator and a starter or two to go, and maybe a couple of power window motors. Plus the obligatory water pump, but that's something that's a maintenance item these days, and changed with the timing belt.

    Also, how you drive is a big factor in how easily you get up to high mileage. If you do a lot of highway driving and take a lot of long trips, have a long work commute, etc, then 300,000 miles will come a lot more effortlessly than if you live 3-4 miles from work and just do a lot of local driving, like I do. I'm at around 104,300 miles now. I put on a lot of my mileage early in the car's life, because I used to deliver pizzas part time, and took a couple trips to Texas. I think I hit 30,000 miles in just 10-11 months! Nowadays though, I hardly put 10,000 a year on the car any more. So I'm only about 20 years away! :shades:
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    Ah my friend I expect much because I am psychotic!

    Cases in Point...my 1981 Grand Prix - I sold it after it reached 91,000 miles. I was much younger and richer in 1987...I probably would have gotten another 30,000 or 40,000 miles out of the drive train...! My 1987 Cougar - 185,000 Miles on the original drive train before I sold it to my Idiot Cousin - who got ANOTHER 48,000 miles out of it - before he donated it. My 1979 Bonneville had either 300,000 or 400,000 miles on it before we lost track of it (sold to a mechanic in Brooklyn).
    NONE of these cars ever needed a new engine or tranny while I owened them.

    My 1999 Intrepid is better than any of these vehicles, both in performance and condition. To look at it today (I did have the back bumber and front hood repainted earlier this year) - you could not guess that it had more than 30,000 or 40,000 miles on it. I use Mobil One oil and change the tranny fluid every 15-20000 miles.
    If I'm worng about this car, I will let everyone know.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    Open letter to my sons: Boys - here is my Intrepid. Use it in good health, and enjoy it. The car remains in my name. The car's maintenance and care is now is YOUR responsibility. I DO NOT CARE that you are both teenagers. If you accept the the responsibility of driving - you accept the FULL Responsibility. In my book, Youth does not equal Stupidity. If I feel you're too young or not ready, you will get the keys when I think you ARE ready, not before. Treat the car well and it will provide you with many years of safe & reliable service. Anything major goes wrong with the car that is not your fault, I will of course be behind you. My priority is you guys, not the car. I will always help you maintain the car and guide you so that you are always safe and secure in it.

    Now...Some New Rules:

    Dad's Rule #1 - I will not buy you another car if you neglect, abuse or destroy this one. Screw this one up, plan on many bus rides.

    Dad's Rule #2 - Show any signs of recklessness, start trashing the car, or become too preoccupied with the car, I will notice it. See Rule #1.

    Dad's Rule #3 - Show any slips in your grades, I will hear about it. See Rule #1

    Dad's Rule #4 - Show any disrespect to yourselves or others on the road, get busted for anything illegal while driving, I will hear about it. See Rule #1

    Dad's Rule #5 - If you get tired of the car, that's understandable - My advice is - get a part-time job, save up the money and see Rule #1.

    That should about cover it, don't you think?
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Member Posts: 252
    I am considering purchasing either a Concord or an Intrepid. I have heard quite a bit of problems with the 2.7 liter engine. Are there similar issues with the 3.2 in the LXI Concord or higher Intrepid model ? Are there other issues i should watch out for ? I will be going from a Japanese import to a Chrysler product. Can I remotely get the same reliability ? What is the most these engines go ?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I'd go with a 3.2 or a 3.5, instead of a 2.7. While the 2.7 in my Intrepid has been reliable, in some situations, such as long mountain grades, putting 3-4 additional passenger in it, etc, it tends to start straining. The 3.2 has 25 more hp and 35 more ft-lb of torque, which makes a big difference. And the 3.5 is better still, putting out anywhere from 234-250 hp, and around 240-250 ft-lb of torque. FWIW, the 3.2 was discontinued after 2001, and replaced with a slightly tuned-down 3.5.

    The 3.2/3.5 are a completely different engine from the 2.7, and are good, solid engines. They're also cheaper to replace when they DO go bad! These engines actually have their roots in the old 3.3 pushrod V-6 that surfaced back around 1990 or so, in cars like the Dodge Dynasty, Chrysler New Yorker, etc. This engine replaced the Mitsubishi 3.0 V-6, and was carried over into the LH cars for 1993. A 3.5 variant that was converted to OHC was constructed, and put out 214 hp, very impressive for the time. Normally, when you take an engine that was designed as a pushrod and then converted to OHC, you get a mess. Just ask Chevy about that 3.4 DOHC V-6 they offered for a few years back in the 90's! :surprise: However, in the case of Chrysler's 3.5, this was one rare instance where the conversion was done right. Now, IIRC, early models did tend to have problems with the timing belt, and a/c problems were also common, but these were corrected after a few years. The 3.2 was a slightly smaller version of the 3.5, offered from 1998-2001. Same basic design, though.

    If it's a '98-04 model you're looking at, basically just make sure it's been maintained well and not abused. Chrysler's 4-speed overdrive automatic has always been a week spot, although they improved them drastically around 1996 or so. And they've improved them, little by little, ever since. The 2.7 doesn't put as much strain on the tranny as the 3.2 or 3.5, so one consolation of having a 2.7 is that the tranny will probably last longer. However, if you maintain it and change the fluid regularly, you shouldn't have a problem with either engine.

    The 2.7 does have a bit of a reputation for sludging, so if you find a model you like that happens to have one, make sure you have accurate maintenance records to go with it. The main reason these engines sludge up is because they're built to tighter tolerances than the 3.2/3.5, and have to work harder and run hotter to move a 3400-3500 lb car around. Keep up on the oil changes, and don't let it overheat, and you'll be fine. But DON'T let it go 10,000 miles between oil changes! Actually, don't let ANY engine do that!

    But, I'd still try to hold out for a model with the 3.2 or 3.5. If nothing else, you'll get better performance, little, if any, penalty in fuel economy (the 2.7 has to rev harder, which offsets the advantage of its smaller displacement), and usually, a better-equipped vehicle, as the 3.2/3.5 were offered in higher trim levels like the R/T, SXT, and ES, whereas the base/SE just had the 2.7. ES models from '98-01 used a 2.7 standard with a variable intake manifold. It only boosted hp by 2, and torque by 5, but the torque curve was consistently higher across the whole RPM band, so it did give a pretty good boost to performance. Most ES's in '98-01 probably had the 3.2 though, which cost around $500 extra. For '02, they just bit the bullet and made a 234 hp version of the 3.5 standard.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    I've got the 3.2 in my 1999 Intrepid ES. I've always said that this engine's power is ADEQUATE for moving the car. It's not a Corvette by any means, but it certainly does the job it was designed for. I use Mobil One Oil and I change it every 4000-5000 miles. I get as much of the tranny fluid changed as I can every 15,000 - 20,000 miles.The car is now approaching 149,000 miles and I still have trouble hearing the engine running at a red light. In the 5 1/2 years I have owned the car it has seen a towing hook ONCE - back in December 2000 - for a malfunctioning ignition switch. See my earlier posts...I can't recommend this car enough. I'm only sorry Dodge stopped making them - as such My next car (sometime in the summer of 2006) will either be a 2007 Dodge Charger (AWD or FWD) or a 2006 Impala SS (FWD). If I can get a SUPER deal on a 2005 Bonneville GXP (They stop making them this year) then I would consider taking a leftover off of a dealer's hands.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    My 3.2 in the '99 ES is just about to reach 100,000 miles and there have been no engine or transmission problems (Those components have been well taken care of). The 3.2 has enough power for the car, but it is no rocket ship. But for cruising at 80 mph on the interstate (which it has done a lot of), it has been great. Problems have been with A/C, radiator fans, and window motors. Oh, and a speed sensor went out once (the only time it needed a tow). I plan to keep the car a good bit longer. One thing I really have liked about the car is the size of the trunk--very spacious and the ES has fold down rear seats to get at the front of the trunk from the back seat. I looked at a new Charger on Thursday, and the trunk (while adequate) isn't near what the Intrepid's is. The same can be said for the 300 :shades: .
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    what did you do to resolve your battery situation??? :)
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I gotta confess, I've been procrastinating on the battery situation. I kept putting it off, and the car is still starting just fine. However, I'm going to Florida next week, and taking the Trep, so watch that be the time that it acts up and finally dies! It's still starting right up, with no problems, though. I'm hoping that it'll be fine through the summer, and then maybe I'll change it out before the cold season sets in.

    I'm holding around 104,700 miles right now. I'm guessing the trip to Florida, once you factor in driving around while we're down there, will get me up over 107,000.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    It almost irritates me to say this, but a 1997 Town & Country I bought used (with 104,000 miles on it) seems to outperform my 1999 Intrepid (149,000 Miles) in just about every category. The T&C is quicker and has a much more stable ride. The T&C is much quieter and it even seems to handle corners better. The only area where the Intrepid is a clear winner appears to be gas mileage (maybe by 3 or 4 miles per gallon combined). The Trep has the 3.2 and the T&C has a 3.8 with AWD. I had no intention of comparing the two vehicles but it does bear mentioning.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    andre, forgive me for being overbearing, but if your battery seems shaky, taking a trip is the best reason NOT to try and stretch the old battery, but the BEST reason to get a new one...unless the wallet is a little light this month, why risk the battery when a new HD batt can be had for under $75, whereas the time lost and inconvenience factor will be worth much more than $75 if you break down in FL...what do you gain by waiting til fall, and what do you lose by having the knowledge that the car will start/run more reliably with a new 5 year batt under the hood???...just thinking out loud, friend... :):):):D:D

    Bob
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    next you're going to tell me that I need to go see the doctor about this golf ball-sized fatty lump I have growing on my back! :surprise: Just kidding about that one! :P

    When batteries start to get weak though, don't they usually exhibit a sign of it first? For instance, the car being harder to start? My car starts up just as fine as it did when it was brand-new. Maybe I will resist the urge to tempt fate though, and do it on Saturday before leaving.

    Thanks for the gentle prod, Dad! :)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The last battery that failed on me operated absolutely perfectly up until the day it refused to do a dadgummed thing about starting the engine. ;)
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Air box or wheel well?
    Which way is the easiest?
    Let everyone know.
    Not the best design for checking/cleaning or tightening the terminals.
    Or swapping the battery out.
    My battery is five years old too.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    on trying to tackle this job tonite, but this morning I had a back spasm. So I may or may not get to it. When I do though, I'll let you guys know which way I went in to get to the battery, and how many things I broke along the way. :P
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    Dude Don't break your back on this. The guy in the garage can change the battery for you faster and cheaper. In my Intrepid the batter is in front of the left front tire. PLEASE!! We've all got better things to do with our time.
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    Read my post of May 5, and the one I just posted tonight. You can probably get away with another 4-5 months, but do you REALLY want an almost 6-year old battery trying to start your car in December? If so, then I hope you 've kept up your AAA membership :P
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Son, you have received the back spasm as a message from above that you can't go to FL until you change the battery... :D:D ...once you change the battery with a HD batt for the 3.2L engine (I have jumped to the conclusion that there is an HD batt and it will fit in your 2.7L)...BTW, as Pat Host just stated, in an oxymoronic type of way, that a marginal batt will work until it no longer works...quite suddenly at that...if it was a 1 or 2 year old batt, we would not have this discussion...but it is a 5/6 year batt, when you know most batts rarely last over 4 years, and you want us to support your decision to be reckless and travel to FL on a batt you know is dying...what kind of father do you think I am???... :D:D ...your logic, son, is impeccably, impeccably, uh, POOR!!!... ;) ...just some "fatherly advice"...and my words are the words of prudence!!!

    Dad
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    it's got 800 CCA, 1000 at 32 degrees. So that's more than the stock battery, which I believe is just a 500 CCA. I'll probably put the sucker in sometime tomorrow. Woulda done it today, but I let one of my buddies borrow the car. It was either that or the Silverado with the leaking gas tank! :surprise:

    I'll let you guys know how it goes, after I put it in tomorrow.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    We await your report...in triplicate!!!
  • teambringitteambringit Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I just picked up a 2004 SE with 12,000 on it for $10,000
    I am just wondering if the problems that I hear about the 2.7 engine should worry me or not. I will definetly maintain it regularly but is there something that I should know that I haven't heard?
    I haven't had it for long but I love it already!
    So anyone I could use some feedback
    Thanks in Advance!
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    100,000 miles at 4:23 PM EDST 6/2/05 :) . Now on to the timing belt and water pump. What do you think for that? Dealer on independent garage?

    Thanks
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    I would price both, and if the dealer is within $50 of the independent, use the dealer, as the small difference in price is worth their "knowledge" of the vehicle, and they stock parts if anything else goes wrong...over $100 diff is, IMO, too much to pay for their "knowledge", and I would use the independent...
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Thanks,

    That makes the dealer look like the better bet right now.

    :shades:
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    I'm looking for torque specs on the ball joint and control arm /frame bolt.

    Would anyone have any info?

    thanks
  • rferd43rferd43 Member Posts: 20
    I have recently found a problem with the gas gauge on my 2000 2.7 Intrepid. While I am driving, sometimes bells start ringing and the gauge needle moves to Empty. Then suddenly, it goes back to its normal reading. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so, do you know a way to fix this annoying noise and erratic behavior? :mad:
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    I had the SAME exact problem on my 2000 Intrepid ES 3.2L...with no relation to any other factor I could determine, my fuel gauge would sometimes just drop to zero, causingthe "low fuel" light to ring, and three seconds later bounce back to full and the bell stopped ringing...could drop and rise 5 times in a minute, or drop once in a week...never found out what caused it, just prayed that it would not occur on the day I gave it back to the leasing company...I assume maybe a bad sensor in the fuel tank, and if it shorts out for a second, no contact is made, gauge does not work, bell rings...because of the instant '"come and go" problem, I thought it was a short or a break in an electrical wire connection, possibly running to a sensor...let me know how you eventually solve it...I thought I was the only one in the world who experienced that problem, but I am not alone... :confuse: :confuse:
  • rferdrferd Member Posts: 28
    I was told that it had to do with the gas cap but I made sure that it was placed correctly and still does it every once in a while. Maybe someone else will report the problem and perhaps a solution. Let's wait and see. :confuse:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    and the Trep is still in one piece, more or less. I did have a little lapse in judgement and common sense though, and got into a little tangle with a sliced off piece of metal sign pole that was sticking up out of the ground :cry: , but other than that the car did fine. I figure fuel economy was around 27-28, which, considering we had the trunk packed tight, and three of us, and constant a/c, was pretty good.

    I did swap out the battery on Sunday the 31st, the day before we left. It's NOT an easy job, and I was pretty fed up with the car by the time I was finished. It was bad enough that I started thinking about trading the car in before it came time to replace the battery again! :mad:

    Anyway, you basically have no choice but to jack up the car and take the tire off. You can see the battery from under the hood, but it's too big to bring it out that way, as about half of the battery is actually underneath the headlight assembly. It's best to take the air cleaner assembly loose though, because it does make access to the hold-downs much easier.

    The little plastic panel in the wheel well is pretty easy to take off, but be careful, because it's held in place by these little bolts that go through these clips that are attached to the panel. They're not attached very well, and will fall off. Also, when you're taking off the bolt for the hold-downs, make sure you cover the positive terminal with a rag or something, or you'll most likely be hitting it with your socket, and making a nice little firework display of sparks. I wonder how many people have been electrocuted trying to replace one of these batteries? :surprise:

    I'd say the whole ordeal took me about an hour and a half, maybe a bit more. One reason it took so long though was because I had to keep hunting down tools, and the socket I used had something wrong with the ratchet. It kept going into, for lack of a better word, "neutral". Somewhere between on and off.

    Oh yeah, I'm up to around 107,300 miles now. I saw a couple of Chargers while in Florida, and I really like 'em. I'll probably replace the Trep with one...eventually.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Andre....I find myself wishing I had logged in earlier. It is possible--and easier--to remove the battery from "the top". That's how my battery was replaced in late March--it involved removing the airbox and sliding aside the positive "jump" terminal. At least that's how the mechanics at Strauss Auto did it. Watching them check on my battery later revealed they were none to gentle while doing this either.
    Other items of interest....Just had two service calls in the past two weeks. I noticed some pronounced wear on my "new" driver's side front tire after two extended trips. Turns out my front bearing had gone bad. That was replaced and the tire replaced (under warranty). Tire was actually ok save for a 15" worn stretch on the outer edge--the inner tread was fine. Thankfully they just went ahead and replaced the tire. Two days ago my 2000 ES wouldn't start after driving in a particularly severe rain storm. Turned out that my alternator had been in the process of "dying" for the past few months. Had that replaced and the battery checked yesterday. Thankfully the shop was able to check for the cheaper of several remanufactured units. Alternators--much to my surprise--can get pricey very quickly if you don't check around. Officially mileage is just over 116,000. Feeling OK about these items being replaced relative to the mileage. It's a FWD car that I don't "baby"--frankly I'm surprised I haven't had to replace the CV joints and axles yet.
    Best wishes to everyone--it'll be a busy and high mileage summer for me and my family. I'll likely pass 120,000 before fall.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    rferd: while I do not know why it did that, I can assure you it was NOT my gas cap, as I was taught back in 2000 to always turn the cap 3 clicks to make sure it is properly seated...I NEVER failed to do that...

    andre: welcome back...for all the problems you had, assuming you bought a 5 year battery, you won't have to touch it for another 4 years, and your trp will have 150K-200K, and probably ready to become a boat anchor... :shades: :shades:
  • froggersjcfroggersjc Member Posts: 51
    You probably already heard, but you should feed the thing nothing but synthetic oil. I change Mobile 1 every 5000 miles with a new filter every 2500. This might be slight overkill but its better than having a $10,000 yard ornament. I've also heard to change the tranny fluid more often than not.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    The 100K mile service was done yesterday--timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, new serpentine and AC belts, and oil and filter. The dealer charged me $734 for that. I had checked a few independent shops and they were about the same price or more than the dealer. The battery is next I suspect. I will probably do that myself and use the "from above" method stated by Jason above. Thanks,
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    but I've NEVER run synthetic oil in my 2.7, and now, at around 107,000 miles, it's still running fine. Initially I tried to change my oil every 3,000 miles, but I've been more inconsistent than I would have preferred. My oil changes have fallen between the 3-5,000 mile range.

    I keep thinking about changing to synthetic, but at this point in time, would it be worth it? If the dino juice hasn't done its job well, would the damage already be done at that point? Now one thing I HAVE done regularly is have the transaxle serviced. Every 30,000 miles. IIRC the owner's manual calls for 100,000 on the "regular" schedule and 50,000 miles on the "severe service" schedule.

    Smithed, if you do change your battery from above, let us know how it goes! Also, watch your back if you do it that way, especially if you're tall. Most likely you're going to have to do a lot of bending over and twisting and pulling, so don't pull a muscle or slip a disk or something!
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    andre: I would not switch to syn oil at this juncture...probably no benefit...stick with what ya got...as long as you have a moderate amount of highway running, going 5K between oil changes is OK...if you are 75% or more city, I would try and go only 3-4K between...

    smithed: $734 does not sound bad if all that major work was done...esp timing belt and pump, and serpentine, plus the once-in-a-lifetime tuneup...if you actually do go to 200K, another $750 will be chump change...

    froggersjc: I would think overkill with no benefit whatsoever...if the oil will go 5K (some feel syn oil goes 7500-10K, but I change it every 5K) then the filter will go 5K...if you truly believe that the oil is filthy enough to change the filter at 2500, then be consistent and change the oil at 2500, because you will damage the engine with your "filthy oil"...or keep the filter to 5K, which is the correct thing to do...and if you really are pulling out that much filth at 2500, you do not need regular oil/filter changes, you need an engine flush to roto-rooter the engine and then put in fresh oil/filter every 5K, but not, IMHO, the way you are doing it now...however, YMMV...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I'm going to try to be more faithful to 3K mile oil changes. My commute to work is only 3 1/2 miles, and most of my driving is local. My recent Florida trip was a rare occurence. Since Christmas Eve, when I hit 100,000 miles, I've put on another 7400, but at least 2000 of that was dedicated to my Florida trip. There have been months where I've only gone like 600 miles.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Yes, the $734 was for all of that. I had anticipated the entire bill to be more than that, so I was satisfied. :shades:
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    or 150 miles weekly, I would consider changing your dino oil/filter every 3000 miles, every 4-5 months...while the engine is doing well, going to 5K on dino means you might change oil twice yearly...risky for an older engine, maybe???

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Bob, I have an old beater of a van--Aerostar that has 151,000 miles on it. I put maybe 2500 miles a year on it, and have been changing the oil yearly. I've been doing that for the last 5 years or so. I'm not saying that I shouldn't change it more often, that's just what I've been doing. The Intrepid is much better taken care of.

    Ed
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Ah, there you go again...I really get annoyed when folks like you bring out some realworld facts that dispute my holier-than-thou theories...how can I pontificate on what you people need to do, how can I run your lives, how can I be the all-knowing automotive guru, when you continue to use something as silly as facts to dispute me???...how will my ego, and, most of all, how will my fans accept this???...:):):):):):):) [I think our smiley emoticons have flown the coop].

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Okay, Okay, I'll get right out there and change my oil and start doing it every 3 months, so I'll be doing the oil change every 800 miles now. I promise. ;);););)
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    to see this good natured, on-going, free-flowing conversation on our "little ol' message board"....
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I think I'm going to keep my mouth shut as to when's the last time I changed the oil in my '79 NYer! :blush: Let's just say it hasn't been 3,000 miles yet, and leave it at that! :P
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    change it tomorrow, or you can't go out with the guys tomorrow night!!!

    Bob
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    We must bow to the wishes of the mas'ser. Oil changes for the house!!!
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    I saw the battery being changed on my Intrepid by my mechanic. Like I said in earlier posts, we've all got better things to do than to screw around for two hours replacing a battery. Now I've got Andre on my side too :D

    Last month I satisfied my lust for "new" wheels by picking up a 1997 Chrysler Town & Country V6 AWD. the thing is fantastic - it outshines my newer 1999 3.2L V6 Intrepid both in peformance and ride. The Trep is much better on gas.

    Next year, my sons get the Intrepid, and Dad gets whatever the hell he wants!! (Grand Prix GXP, '05 Bonneville GXP, Charger, Mustang, Impala SS, and 300 AWD are all on the short list).
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    I don't see Yugo, Pinto or Vega on your short list...

    Bob
  • cfazzaricfazzari Member Posts: 77
    Sheesh...I hated all three of those cars 30 years ago when I was 15 years old...I still get the creeps seeing their names in print.

    Oh yeah....what's with the "Marsha7" screen name when your name is Bob :)
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    in here lately. How are things out there in Intrepid-land? I'll be taking my Trep to the Mopar Nationals in Carlisle PA on July 8-10. The main reason I put it in is because I'm in a Mopar club and if they get enough cars on the fun field, the club wins some prize money. One thing that's interesting is that there's always a good turnout of Intrepids and other LH cars at the Mopar show, but at the GM and Ford shows, I guess people just don't get excited enough about their Impalas and Tauruses to put them on the fun field! :shades:
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    I posted the answer to your query that same night, but it never appeared...then, we lost internet service for a few days, so I am just on now...and the modem may not keep going...

    When I started with Edmunds a number of years ago, naturally I had to pick a user name...I wanted to name it after my wife, so I picked marsha1...they said it was taken...I picked marsha2...it was taken...I picked marsha3...it was taken...do you detect a pattern here???...marsha7 was approved...my name, however, is Bob...

    I have wondered just how long I have been a member of Edmunds...I have tried to offer valid answers to posters' questions, and I hope I have been helpful to the folks here, not counting the occasional humorous answer because some folks leave themselves wide open when they post...

    But, in the topics I post, not counting when I ask my usual comparo questions, I really do hope I have been helpful to the Edmunds folks, as they have been very helpful to me...

    Bob :D;):):blush:
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