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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Belts turned out to be a walk in the park. Less than two drops of blood....not bad. Alt/p.s. belt is really simple. All you have to do is loosen the nut on the idler pulley and release tension by turning the bolt at the back. The same bolt tightens the new belt. All you need is a long extension to access the adjusting bolt. The a/c belt is easy too, but is under spring tension so you have to be careful. It mounts with two bolts, just loosen them to move the tensioner. with a 1/2" ratchet and the belt slides on and off. Just be sure to release the spring first if you are going to take the bolts out completely. All I did was loosen the bolts enough to let me move the tensioner. assy. Then let the spring set the tension on the belt before tightening the bolts.
    Actually a good design, just not much room to see. I used a mirror to look and then it was easy to see what moves and how.
    Took about a half hour.
    Strangely not one Dodge dealer in my area had both belts in stock.
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I changed the serpentine belt on a 96 Grand Caravan with no special tools, only an open end wrench to take the tension off of the automatic tensioner, and a coat hanger bent to help guide the belt over the lower pulleys. From the top no less.
    I did it without the special tool, but it is even easier if you have it. It is basically an extra long ratcheting bow end wrench.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Fred,

    I also have a 1999 ES, now with 105,000 miles. Only problem other than routine maintenance was that transmission speed sensor, but that was years ago. Have had the timing belt and water pump change done, new brakes, frequent transmission service. What color is yours? This one's gold (champagne, they called it) and tan inside. :shades:

    Ed
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I also have a 1999 ES, now with 105,000 miles. Only problem other than routine maintenance was that transmission speed sensor, but that was years ago. Have had the timing belt and water pump change done, new brakes, frequent transmission service. What color is yours? This one's gold (champagne, they called it) and tan inside.
    Mine is also champagne and tan interior. I had a trans sensor go out about two years ago. I also had to replace a front wheel bearing. Other that that, very reliable. The sealed wheel bearings are real hit and miss. Typically very reliable, but they do break. I have used synthetic oil in mine since 3000 miles. The next oil change will be at 70,000 miles. This car is very smooth and fast and gets great mileage. If Chrysler had made the 3.2L engine the base engine in all Intrepids that would have sold a lot more of them.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "The next oil change will be at 70,000 miles. This car is very smooth and fast and gets great mileage. If Chrysler had made the 3.2L engine the base engine in all Intrepids that would have sold a lot more of them."

    Fred,
    That's not a lot of miles now that these cars are between 6 and 7 years old. We put a lot of miles on ours due to trips to our kids' college about 250 miles away, and trips from PA to SC about twice a year. The mileage has slowed down some now, with both kids graduated and back in our area.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    about making the 3.2 standard in the Intrepid, but I think it would've been nice if they made it an option on the base Intrepid. That way, instead of spending a few thousands bucks to get into the ES model, you could spend maybe $500 or so to get the engine in your base model.

    Actually, IIRC, the 3.2 WAS optional in the '98-01 ES, for $500. I think in those first few years they used a 2.7 that was slightly modified with dual intake runners or something. It only bumped up the hp by 2 (202 versus 200) and torque by maybe 5 (195 versus 190 ft-lb) but the whole torque curve was higher across the board, so it did make the car much more responsive.

    Still, I think the best route was in 2002, when they simply made a slightly de-tuned 3.5 standard in the ES.

    One thing I admired about the '00-05 Impala was that you could get the 3.8 as an option in the base model. I doubt very many were ordered that way, though.
  • reechzreechz Member Posts: 50
    2000 Intrepid ES. Only 55,000 miles on it. We bought it new. Started it up and it was d.o.a. Towed to my very trustworthy service station. They told me the timing belt actually broke and destoryed (bent) the valves and heads (I could be wrong about exactly what was destroyed by the belt). Bottom line is I need another motor. I can get one installed (supposedly from a low milage chrysler) for $3200 (thats for parts and labor).
    Additionally the A/C evaporator crapped out last spring and needs to be replaced - wouldn't take re-charging we tried a couple of times with diminishing returns(another $1200 for parts and labor). $4400 in repairs for a 6 year old car with 55K miles.
    I am sick to my stomach. I know there have been a lot of problems with the motors on these cars and that Daimler doesn't care.
    I have to weigh spending close to $5000 on this car (i have to do some other minor work- brake pads, tires) as well.

    Anyone think it's worth it? Or do I take the tax deduction?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    and it looks like the retail value of a 2000 ES with 55,000 miles is $8325, which I'm sure is a bit optimistic. Trade-in value, in excellent condition, is only $4800.

    So I would say fix the car only under two conditions...
    (1) you really like the car otherwise
    (2) you want to hold off on sinking money into buying a replacement car.

    For instance, in my case, I'm trying to hold off on buying another car until at least my 38th birthday. That's a little over two years away. My monthly payment on my '00 Trep base model was $347.66. Anything new that I want would probably be close to that. So I might actually be able to talk myself into getting the engine fixed. I'd probably hold off on the a/c though, but that's because I'm a bit of a masochist. Plus it usually doesn't get THAT hot where I live, so as long as the windows still roll down and the blower motor works, I can deal with it.

    So just focusing on the value of the car, it's probably not worth it. BUT, if you could spend $5000 without having to put anything major into it for another year or so, it might be something to look into. IF you still like the car. If you're fed up with it at this point though, you might not want to put any more money into it, because then you may resent your decision.

    Now, in my case, my 2000 base model is pushing 116,000 miles. And I have the 2.7, which I've heard is around $5,000 just for the engine. Then there's the labor to put it in. In my case, having a cheaper model with higher mileage, and an engine that costly, I'd just unload the car at that point.

    I wonder how expensive it would be to fit the 3.2 in place of a 2.7? There was a '99 Intrepid ES at the Mopar show in Carlisle, PA last year where the owner had that done. If my 2.7 went bad and I could get a 3.2 put in for $3200 I might consider it. But I doubt it would be that cheap, since it's swapping in a different motor and not a direct replacement.
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I am sick to my stomach. I know there have been a lot of problems with the motors on these cars and that Daimler doesn't care.
    I am not sure about 2000, but in 1999 the Intrepid ES came only with the 3.2L engine. I have heard nothing bad about these engines, or their big brothers the 3.5L. If you have a 2.7L engine, they were prone to "sludge" whatever that means if you used extended oil changes. How did the place that you took the car to figure out that you needed an entire new engine? If the engine was running and the engine that you have is an interference engine you can trash the valves and pistons with a broken timing belt. You would have to pull the heads to figure out how bad it is. What exactly happened when your engine stopped running? You may be interested in this site: http://www.faqs.org/qa/qa-10055.html

    To answer your final question, I would not put much money into this car, but it is worth looking into it a little more.
  • reechzreechz Member Posts: 50
    That is exactly what happened...The timing belt broke and ruined the vales and pistons. And they opened up the engine to determine this (and showed it to me.).

    What a shame, car is in such unused shape, but between the A/C evaporator and the engine, it doesn't make sense to invest that much $$$ into this and then wait for the inevitable next big thing to break.

    I'll never buy a Dodge/Chrysler again.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    On my 2000 Intrepid R/T, it too suffered the bad evaporator core. Combine that with two transmission replacements in 67,000 miles, and it has made me swear off ever owning a Chrysler again. (Don't forget the various shrinking door seals, the bad throttle body replaced, the cold engine valve tapping, and the various odd beeps, flashes, etc. that the car would do from time to time that I ignored) The dealer could also never solve the cold engine groan from the accessory drive belt, and the horrible squeal it made in cold weather.

    Car had 67,000 miles on it when I traded it in after the 2nd transmission replacement - dealer took it straight to auction; they told me they don't like selling used Intrepids - bad for their reputation.

    I now have an used old man's Grand Marquis LSE, and while it certainly isn't stylish, the car feels built like a vault compared to the Intrepid. My mechanic maintained a local police fleet - told me the cars are built to last.

    It's so square, it's hip.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Here is some advice from Tom and Ray of Car Talk.
    Dear Tom and Ray:

    You've often mentioned that timing belts should be replaced before they break, because on some cars, engine damage can be severe. I own a 1986 Honda Accord LXi. Due to a divorce, I've lost some of my service records, and I don't know how long ago the timing belt was replaced. Do you know if this is one of the engines that would be damaged if the belt breaks while I'm driving? Thanks. -- Jeff

    Ray: Well, I've heard of nasty divorces before, but this is the first time I've ever heard of one spouse getting the service records. "He gets the Honda, she gets the house, the kids and the service records."

    Tom: Oh, they go for everything. Trust me.

    Ray: Unfortunately, your car IS what we affectionately refer to in the shop as a "motor wrecker."

    Tom: The technical term is "interference engine," because the valves open so far into the cylinders (they "interfere" in the piston space) that if the valve timing isn't perfect, the valves can be struck by a piston.

    Ray: The "interference" design actually increases the engine's efficiency, because the wider the valves open, the more "stuff" you can get in and out of the cylinders. But when the timing belt breaks on an interference engine, the pistons and valves can collide, and then it's "bye-bye valves."

    Tom: By the way, most Hondas and Nissans use interference engines. Some other cars do, too, so check with your dealer about your specific year and model.

    Ray: Since you have an interference engine, Jeff, unless you can verify that the belt was changed within the past 60,000 miles, you'd be wise to go ahead and change it now. And the easiest way to find the date of the last timing-belt change is to call your ex-wife and ask her to look it up for you.

    Tom: If you'd rather sit on a hot fork than do that (hey, I've been there), you can try asking the garage where you take the car for service. It's possible that it will have a record of when you last changed the belt.

    Ray: But better safe than sorry here, Jeff. This is probably not the time to be adding a car payment to the monthly bills for alimony, child support and hair plugs. Good luck.

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    Changing your oil regularly is the cheapest insurance you can buy for your car, but how often should you change it? Find out by ordering Tom and Ray's pamphlet "Ten Ways You May Be Ruining Your Car Without Even Knowing It!" To order, send (check or money order) to Ruin, P.O. Box 536475, Orlando, FL 32853-6475. You can also order online.

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  • rlagrowrlagrow Member Posts: 2
    OK did a search and ended up on this site read like 10 pages of posts about this but never really got an answer, or maybe, I just missed it.

    I drive 40 miles to work 40 miles home as long as its cold never see the oil light come on. but after 35 miles of highway driving @ 55mph I cross the mississippi river bridge and hit the light BAM soon as the RPM's hit 1000 or lower oil light comes on tell I hit the gas. I had the oil changed 1194 miles ago. no prob tell now. I check oil level today before i left for work after sitting all night 1/2 qt low. So i topped it of with fingers crossed... hit the light no luck. first thought was oil sending unit but after reading some of your posts I'm not so sure anymore. :confuse: Did any of you ever get a definite answer as to what the problem was?
    I just picked the car up about a months ago for 2400 fully loaded in good shape minus the front end marks and headlight brackets being broke had A/C replaced on it and a head job done recently @ 140,000 I got it at 150,012. great car but trying not to dump alot of money in it right off the bat B4 i decide if i got a :lemon: any advice would be great! and THANX in advance!!!!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I had this problem about 2 1/2 years ago with my 2.7. Right around the 85,000 mile mark. It turns out there was some kind of problem with the sensor. The way they explained it to me, the sensor is in a place that can get very hot, and the wiring will tend to heat up and give a false reading once the car is fully warmed up and you get into low-rpm situations where there's little to no airflow, such as stopped at a traffic light. The fix involved putting in some kind of venting system, and was covered by a TSB, so it cost me nothing out-of-pocket.

    In my case, the oil light would only come on once the rpms dropped to around 500 rpm. And it would only do that when idling, stopped at a traffic light. Oddly, if I put it into neutral and revved the engine ever so slightly the problem would go away. That made me think it was a legitimate oil pressure problem.
  • rlagrowrlagrow Member Posts: 2
    OK I have to ask what does TSB stand for? The same thing in my case slap it up into neutral and tap the gas goes off for a sec soon as it drops comes back on. which sensor was it oil pressure switch, oil sending unit? auto parts places show a list of oil sensors so wanna make sure i walk in to deal knowing what I'm talking about when I myself and just learning about this car.

    thanx for the words of wisdom also :D
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    means "Technical Service Bulletin". Basically it's kind of like a hidden recall. The main difference, I think, is that if there's a recall then every single vehicle built within a certain timespan gets recalled and fixed, whereas with a TSB, you have to actually have the problem, and the dealer will usually fix it for free. Now with the car being 10 years old and having 150,000 miles on it, I don't know if a dealer would honor a TSB.

    Anyway, I did a little digging in some of the old forums here, and found some of the dialog from when I had my problem back in 2003. Here's what my particular TSB involved...

    NUMBER: 08-36-99
    GROUP: Electrical
    DATE: Oct. 15, 1999
    SUBJECT:
    Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker
    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector.
    MODELS:
    1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
    NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.7L ENGINE.
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle.
    DIAGNOSIS:
    Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure.
    PARTS REQUIRED:
    1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent
    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    1. Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.
    2. Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.
    3. Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.
    4. Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.
    5. Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.
    6. Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.
    7. Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment.

    Now, in looking at it, I just noticed that this particular TSB is intended for vehicles with the 2.7, so it might not apply to the 3.5. However, there might be a similar TSB for the 3.5.

    If you post your problem on the Technical Service Bulletins forum at Edmunds (you can find it by typing in "Technical Service Bulletins" in the "search forums" box to the left), there may be someone there who could give you some better info.

    In my case, I don't think any switches, sending units, etc got replaced; all they did was put in the vent thing to keep the wiring and such from getting hot enough to send a false reading.

    Anyway, good luck! Hope your Intrepid lasts for a long, long time!
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    When my wife told me that the oil light was coming on in our car I was somewhat concerned at first, but a check of the oil level and a test drive made me almost positive that it was the same problem you had. If I recall you posted about it earlier. The light only came on at a low idle when the engine compartment was hot. I checked on a rainy cold day and did not have the problem. Car ran fine.
    The dealership was impressed that I had the TSB number as well as the part number for the fix. They are going to see if DC will honor the repair for a six year old car. If not, a new sender,harness etc... installed will run about $140.
    Thanks for your last post here. Might save me some $$.
    New spark plugs, an alignment and some other stuff will put the bill up around $400. First time I have had to do anything except normal wear items on this car. Not bad for 6 years and almost 60000 mi.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    You're welcome, tkfitz. Glad my little experience could be of some help to a fellow Intrepid owner :)
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Just checking in about the 1999 vs. 2000 ES. My 1999 ES has the 3.2 L engine, which was standard. Was the 2.7 L engine standard in the 2000s? :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    the 2.7 was standard in the ES in 2000, and I remember that the 3.2 was a $500 option. The 3.5 was only available in the R/T.

    The ES 2.7 was a bit different from the base 2.7, though. It had a dual intake runner and other minor mods that gave it a slight power boost. IIRC, hp only went from 200 to 202, and peak torque only went from 190 ft-lb to 195 ft-lb, but you still got more torque across the entire rpm band. And with the ES, you also got the Autostick standard.

    I think 0-60 for the ES 2.7 was around 8.9 seconds, versus 9.5 for the regular 2.7. Edmunds tested a 2000 ES with the 3.2 and got 0-60 in 8.4 seconds. So the ES 2.7/autostick was enough of an improvement to split the difference between the base 2.7 and the ES 3.2.

    In 2002, I believe it was, they dropped the variable intake 2.7 and the 3.2, and just made a slightly de-tuned 3.5 standard in the ES.

    I just checked the KBB site, and it will let you spec out a 1999, 2000, or 2001 Intrepid ES with either a 2.7 or 3.2. But now for 1998, they only list the 3.2. And for 2002 they only list the 3.5.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Andre, thanks. I will have to look at my window sticker from the '99 ES. I thought I didn't specifically order the 3.2, but it might have been part of a package I specified when I submitted the order in 02/99. The memory may be a little fuzzy after 7 years. :shades:
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Andre, $8944 is too much for that car, by a good bit. The 2004 is overpriced too. Talk about holding value though, my daughter has a 2004 Accord LX and the trade in value even with the 36000 miles she has put on it is less than $2000 less than she paid for it, and the Certified used car price (Edmunds) is more than what it went out the door for new. How can that be? :confuse:

    Shows you what's in a name. It has not been trouble free, and has had two recalls.

    I checked, in '98 and '99 the 3.2 L engine was standard on the ES, and the change to 2.7 happened in 2000, when the RT made its appearance. :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    I remember about 2 1/2 years ago (September '03), this same dealer had an '02 Intrepid SE with about 38,000 miles on it for about $9,000. My Dad was in the market for a car at the time, and he was interested in it...at first. But then he saw an '03 Regal LS parked right next to it, with 19,500 miles, for only $2K more. A year newer, half the miles, and better equipped, it seemed like a no-brainer, so he ended up buying it.

    Heck, looking back, I remember joking and saying that if he didn't buy it, I would have! Truthfully, I still like the Intrepid better, but that Regal was a great car for the price.

    But if I could've gotten a 2 year old Intrepid with 38K miles on it for $9K back then, I'm sure not going to pay $9K for one with 65K miles on it that's going on 7 model years old!
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    Just checking in about the 1999 vs. 2000 ES. My 1999 ES has the 3.2 L engine, which was standard. Was the 2.7 L engine standard in the 2000s?
    In 1999 the Intrepid ES was the top of the line Intrepid and came only with 3.2L, ABS, and autostick, split rear seat, fog lamps, inside light package, 16" aluminum wheels and 225/60/16 tires. In 2000 the Intrepid RT came out with the 3.5L and the ES was relegated to a "dress up" package. The SE also came out around then with purely cosmetic options.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "In 1999 the Intrepid ES was the top of the line Intrepid and came only with 3.2L, ABS, and autostick, split rear seat, fog lamps, inside light package, 16" aluminum wheels and 225/60/16 tires. In 2000 the Intrepid RT came out with the 3.5L and the ES was relegated to a "dress up" package. The SE also came out around then with purely cosmetic options."

    Thanks Fred, that's what I found out too. In 1999 there were only two models--base and ES.

    That's exactly how mine is equipped, has Infinity sound and I ordered the power sunroof. Filled the tank last evening with regular at $2.67/gal that set me back $38. :surprise: :shades:
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I forgot to add that the base ES, which I have, came with an upgraded stereo, but not the Infinity stereo.
  • alextungalextung Member Posts: 2
    Does the tail lights coming from a 93-97 intrepid all could fit for my 97 intrepid V6 3.3L? I saw a lot of different advertisements on ebay and got confused.

    BTW, what does it mean "fit with red line"? Thanks.
  • ylaerisylaeris Member Posts: 2
    I own a 99 dodge Intrepid, well techinically it's my dad's, and at about 86,000 miles, the oil pump went out. Is it worth it to fix the car? I have a friend that is a mechanic and he said he could get me a new/used engine for about $700 and get it put in for pretty cheap. My dad said that if I fixed the car that I could have it. The regisration runs out the end of may and I needed to figure out if I should get it fixed or just buy a new car. I don't have much of money, so that is a bit of a problem.

    Any advice would be really helpful. Thanks
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    It depends how much it will cost you to fix the pump and if any damage was done to the engine by the bad oil pump.
    You will also need a timing belt change if that has not been done yet.
    If you can do this work yourself, it is definitely worth replacing the oil pump to see what condition the engine is in. As soon as you start paying other people, the bills start adding up very quickly.
    What is a new used engine. One from a car with 86,000 mile that had an oil pump go out?
  • ylaerisylaeris Member Posts: 2
    I don't have the knowledge, time, or tools to fix the problem myself. I would if I could. I do have a good friend that is a mechanic and he said that he could get an engine for me for $600-700 and get it put in for pretty cheap. I meant to say used engine, one that is fairly used, but still kinda new.

    The thing is that I have until the end of may, when the registration on the car expires, to either fix this car or get a crappy car that might not last too long. I don't have 6 months of job history and I don't have any credit yet, so I don't think I can get a loan.

    Anyway, thanks for your help.
  • eskieseskies Member Posts: 3
    Does anybody know of a class action law suit against chrysler on the dodge intrepid due to oil pumps failing and taking out the motor. know of two cars that it has happened to in just a short week. one a 98 and one a 2000. the 98 had 91k and the 2000 had 40k. :confuse:
  • cookie7414cookie7414 Member Posts: 1
    did you get it fixed..i have the same problem..i changed the coil pack and still no spark. Can anyone help on this.
    thanks!
  • 4ducks4ducks Member Posts: 8
    Did you get this fixed? I had the same problem this past fall and it ended up being found when a friend told me I had no brake lights. It was the brake fuse under the hood! Who would have thought a $3.00 fuse would remedy this problem!! :shades:
  • 4ducks4ducks Member Posts: 8
    Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks! :confuse:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Please don't.

    There is a note above the post box asking that people not post their email addresses and, in fact, we will remove posts which contain them.

    For one thing, there are automated webcrawlers sucking up email addresses for malicious purposes and you don't want to open yourself up to that. For another, we are an online community and, as such, would like the conversations to take place here within the discussion so that it benefits all of our members.

    If you want other community members to have access to your address, all you have to do is make it public in your profile. The webcrawlers can't get to it there.

    Thanks!
  • bstnsportsfan3bstnsportsfan3 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 dodge intrepid ES that i bought in january and it had 100,050 miles for 2,800. it currently has 101,500 and i havent changed the timing belt yet...does any one know when (like Miles wise)that i should get this changed and where i can find a good cheap one to have my mechanice install???
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    If it's an ES with the 3.5, the interval should be 105,000 miles. Also, the 3.5 is an interference engine, meaning that if the belt fails, your engine is essentially toast, as the pistons will smash the valves into oblivion. The timing belt also drives the waterpump, so I'm guessing it might be a good idea to change that too, while you're in there.

    As for finding a belt, I don't think the belt itself is that expensive. The only name I know is Gates (http://www.gates.com). The labor to put it in is where most of the cost will be, so don't bother trying to save a few bucks on the part itself. And with something this critical, I wouldn't advise skimping, anyway.

    While they're in there, it would be a good idea to replace the crankshaft and camshaft seals, too.
  • georgeogeorgeo Member Posts: 1
    I am having turn signal problems on my 95 ES 3.5 I have replaced the flasher unit and the turnsignal stalk switch replaced fuse in the door access and under hood still not working I am now slowly inspecting the wiring.Funny thing is the brake lights work. Is there any help out there???? :confuse: Otherwise I like my intrepid.
  • bstnsportsfan3bstnsportsfan3 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your help.... and yes it is a 3.5 and i didnt know all that stuff has to be changed, now i gotta save more money as $300 wont cover all of that lol.... but thanks for your help, rather be safe then sorry.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    but I had a '88 LeBaron, and when we had the timing belt and the camshaft/crankshaft seals replaced on it, the bill was under $300. But that was about 10 years ago, so it would probably be more now. Dang, it's amazing how time flies...seems like it wasn't that long ago! :blush:

    I think the 2.2 was actually designed to be easy to work on, though. IIRC, the same guy who did the Mopar slant six and the smallblock V-8 designed the 2.2.

    Once they're actually in there, the crankshaft and camshaft seals shouldn't add too much to the expense. It's just that it's better to replace them because if they start leaking, oil will get in to where the timing belt is and cause it to deteriorate more quickly.
  • jonp2jonp2 Member Posts: 1
    My turn signals and flashers stopped working on my 2003 Intrepid. I changed the 10 amp fuse (which looked fine) with no success. Any other ideas?
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Hi, everyone!

    A dealer has a 2000 R/T w/the 3.5L engine for $1,995. The catch? It has 208,000 miles. It has no added options. It only has cloth seats, Cassette/CD, standard 17" rims, and the AutoStick.

    Body in nice condition (at least from website photos)

    I was considering this as a second car for a "beater" car.

    What do you all think?

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    $1995....I would take it out and try it out. If it ran ok and everything important worked it would be a fun car for short money. R/Ts are a great second hand value anyway. Not something to put money in-make sure the tires,front-end etc...are good.
    30 day warranty?
    Probably sell for $1600 or so....bargain.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    basically just make sure everything looks sound, and if possible check the service records. AFAIK, the 3.5 is a good, durable engine, although at that mileage it should be due a timing belt change. And while they're in there, I think it's standard operating procedure to change the water pump, too.

    Also, in 2000 the Intrepid R/T WAS a pretty basic car, as it used the base interior, and not the nicer ES. I think it was 2002 that the R/T became more luxurious, and the SXT was introduced to be the muscular Intrepid for those on a bit of a budget.
  • rirrir Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 95 Intrepid with the same turn signal trouble and my brake lights also work. I just thought it was the relay since it was buzzing. I purchased a new relay from the dealer and it worked for 4 days, stopped working, started working again right after I hit the hazard button then stopped again for good on the 5th day after I installed the new relay. The same thing happened with the last relay. The switch and fuse in the inside the car have also been checked. Sounds like something is blowing the relays. Any help out there :confuse:
  • painterdave72painterdave72 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all I purchased an immaculate 94 intrepid with 48k original miles on it about six months ago.. this car is near perfect and was owned by a little old woman.. recently it has begun doing this thing where it will die for no reason and take about two or three minutes to start again.. any suggestions as what to check?? The fuses and relays all are clean and look brand new.. could it possibly be the coil pack or the fuel pump or just a loose connection.. thanks...Dave..
  • jmoore9jmoore9 Member Posts: 3
    Hey everyone.

    Looks like I have the oil sending unit problem I have read so much about -- at least I hope that is all it is.

    When the car gets hot on a hot day the oil light flickers at low RPMs -- it was at 700 RPMs, but now it is at 900-1000 RPMs.

    I have read the posts about the TSB on this problem, but the TSB is from 1999, and I have not seen the year of cars that were having this problem. Is the TSB for all 2.7 L engines, or those built in 1999 and before?

    Thanks for the help!
    Jim
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Have the oil pressure checked. Even if your model has the improved harness the sending unit could be bad. Not a big $$ repair. About $100 at a dealership. Good luck.
  • jmoore9jmoore9 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply.

    I went ahead and replaced the sending unit yesterday, but that did not solve the problem. I did not replace the wire though -- I am wondering if that is still applicable to 2002 models.

    Jim
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Was the oil pressure good? Gotta start there!!!! Do not run the 2.7 with low pressure.
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