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Dodge Intrepid

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  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    is a 2000, but it had the oil pressure problem. And the tsb wasn't for the sending unit itself, but for some kind of wiring problem that, when it gets hot, it gives it a false read. I do remember it had something to do with installing a vent so that the area that gets hot can cool better.

    Back when I had the problem, the low pressure light would only come on at 500 rpm.

    When I had this problem it really scared me because I have another car, a 1967 Pontiac Catalina, that used to have the same issue. But this car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed, so when I saw the oil light flicker, the gauge itself verified it! And it would only do it when it was fully warmed up and the oil thinned out, and at low-rpm situations such as idling at a traffic light. In this case it was a simple fix; just put in a heavier oil and bump up the idle a bit. I think Pontiacs back then were known for idling slowly, but I think this one had been played with over the years, and was actually idling TOO slow. I guess it's a miracle it didn't stall out!

    And nowadays, I guess it's NOT a good idea to just put in a heavier-weight oil!
  • khfordkhford Member Posts: 1
    I noticed yesterday when I was driving home that my left turn signal wouldn't work with my headlights on. The turn signal just stayed on, and didn't blink. My right turn signal worked just fine. I got out and checked to see if I had a bulb out, and they were all fine. I shut off my headlights and the left turn signal started working again. Turn the lights on, it quits working. After I turned off my car and ran my errands, I came back out and it hasn't given me a moments problem. Do I have a bulb about to die, am I about to lose a fuse, is the turn signal flasher going out? Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • painterdave72painterdave72 Member Posts: 5
    So does anyone have any sugesstions??????Dave..
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Sorry, but my expertise with electrical/electronic crap like that is negligible. I have an '85 Silverado that used to do something like that, and it turned out to be the ECU in the distributor getting overheated. It would sometimes take an hour or more to cool down though. And, well, Intrepids don't have distributors. Wait...did the first-generation models still use a distributor?
  • painterdave72painterdave72 Member Posts: 5
    No it just has the spark box where the plug wires plug into...
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. You might try posting in Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
  • magneticomagnetico Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2001 intrepid with a 2.7 engine and i had the same oil light problem but i had the engine flush twice inside so it clean up all the sludge and i put in a 5/20 syntetic oil and is been a week everything seems ok no more oil flicking at idle and the engine runs smooth.hope it helps what i did,bye Tony.
  • homerkchomerkc Member Posts: 113
    I had the flickering oil light 30 mos ago (@ 70K miles). Upon investigating, I learned of the 2.7 enging sludging problem. My car has seen mostly highway miles, AND frequent oil changes, so I didn't think sludge was the problem. I paid the DEALER to look - no sludge, but a new sending unit later, the flickering light was gone. I was advised to use synthetic oil, though, and now at 100K miles, my car (a 2000 bought new) still runs great and gives me 25mpg and a lot of driving pleasure. I planned to replace it this spring but couldn't find anything i liked, so I'll to drive it for another year or so. A friend (a DC employee) says the engine works too hard in a car this size (causing sludging in some cars.) He suggest frequent oil changes - 3K miles SHARP. I will keep using synthetic, though, as it is chemically impossible to turn to sludge at operating temps.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    the first thing the dealer did was talk me into doing that oil flush thing, and they also replaced some part. I think it was the sending unit, but I can't remember for sure. Anyway, it didn't help, and once the car had been driven far enough to fully warm up, the light came back on. The guys at the dealer just never drove it far enough in their test drive.

    It wasn't until they did the TSB for the wiring and the vent that the flicker finally went away.

    As for mileage, I'm up to around 118,000 miles not, and haven't been all that religious about changing the oil. Originally I tried to stick with 3,000 mile intervals, but I got a bit lazy. I rarely let it go more than 4,000 miles, though.

    I've thought about getting a new car from time to time, but I really couldn't find anything I really liked, either. At least, not for the price. I kinda like the Altima and Charger. I also like the Buick Lucerne, even though I don't have enough gray hair yet. :P

    It's probably kinda silly to go out and get the same basic car, but I've thought about trying to find a low-mileage '03-04 Intrepid with the 3.5 and a sunroof. I'll probably just keep my '00 though, until something really major/expensive breaks on it.
  • phardyphardy Member Posts: 12
    Hello,

    I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with about 110k miles on it. I brought it into my local dealership over 2 months ago because of overheating. After a week in the shop, a service rep told me that during the process of trying to fix my car, they destroyed the engine and they are going to fix the car for free.

    Now check this out. The last time I had an engine replaced (in a different car) it only took 2 weeks to get my car back -- and the car was fixed in "Grandpa's Automechanic Shop". This car, my 2K Intrepid is at a Chrysler/Dodge dealer. I brought it in 2 months ago anf they're still giving me excuses why the car is not ready.

    Folks, I suspect fraud or something else has happened to the car and they are not telling me the truth. What would you recommend?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    What kind of excuses are they giving you? The main reason I can think of that they're taking so long is because it's on their dime. The reason they're not expediting it is because it's not profitable for them to do so. They might be pushing your job aside to make way for other jobs that bring in money.

    A few years back, my uncle needed the transmission in his '97 Silverado rebuilt, by the dealer, under an extended warranty he bought. I'd say it took them at least a month. His tranny went out again a few months ago, out of warranty. We had a local shop rebuild it, and I think they had it out in two days!
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    I take it you did not get a loaner??
    I would talk to a manager...might be best to use your car as a credit on a different car. Better a new car than something they threw back together to get you out the door. I cannot believe they are admitting they ruined a
    motor on an older car with 110000. Have that in writing??
    Good luck.
  • phardyphardy Member Posts: 12
    They've given me all kinds of excuses. Most of them were:

    "We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts."

    Now it's "the check engine light came on and discovered that "x" sensor went bad." "The check engine light came on and discovered that "y" sensor went bad." "We'll have it to you by Monday.", "We'll have it to you by "Wednesday.", "We had to order another part and it should be here tomorrow.", (two days later) "We just ordered the part and it should be here tomorrow."

    Excuse after excuse after excuse.
  • phardyphardy Member Posts: 12
    Their "policy" states that they don't provide loaners but they're willing to give me "service credit." No comment comment on that.

    I've spent lots of money on rentals already and cannot afford them anymore so I'm stuck with public transportation in the meantime and it's really become a serious problem. My wife and I came up with an idea and I'll fill you in on it once we try it.
  • mikeyj06mikeyj06 Member Posts: 1
    I everyone. I am new to this whole forum thing so please bear with me. I have a 2000 intrepid with somewhere around 130k miles on it. I just picked it up from a used car lot about 2 months ago. So far I have had to replace the fuel pump. Now I'm having to replace rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain,passenger window motor,and the lock on the driver side because some punk decided the 4 cd's on the back seat were worth jamming a screwdriver into to get them. I have recently moved to Texas from Florida to start my own business. One in which I do alot of driving (around 200 miles a day). Provided I have a working vehicle to do it in. The good thing is a bought an extended warranty when I got the car, and it covers the motor and drive train so that ends up working out I guess. I do like the car though. It rides great, handles alot better than I thought it was going to considering it's size, and I'm averaging 26 miles to gallon. That's with driving about 40 miles on the highway then finishing the remaining fuel in the tank stopping in front of houses all day. I do home inspections for mortgage companies by the way.

    So if anyone has any ideas on anything I can do to get more power and or gas mileage please let me know.

    Thanks,
    MikeyJ
  • painterdave72painterdave72 Member Posts: 5
    well i had my car fixed.. I had a shop do an engine diagnosis and it was the cam postion sensor.. that is why the car kept stalling out for no reason.. the sensor is about 100 dollars though.. now it runs well again..Dave.
  • bstnsportsfan3bstnsportsfan3 Member Posts: 6
    On my 1997 Intrepid ES when you turn on the lights only the highlights come on. i cant get normal lights at all. any suggestions? i think its an eletrical problem but not shure.
  • 4ducks4ducks Member Posts: 8
    When the A/C triggers on, the belts seem to squeal very loudly. We have tried the belt dressing on the belts to no avail. Any ideas?? :confuse:
  • 4ducks4ducks Member Posts: 8
    Recently, my Intrepid began blowing on high all the time. It even blows on high when you turn the a/c unit off. Any ideas? Maybe a relay or a resistor? Thanks!

    In addition to the above, there is also a high pitch noise when driving. Another problem that started is that you have to jiggle the key in order to make to blower start (windows also don't work if blower doesn't come on). Any ideas???? Don't want to spend a fortune at a shop if there is something else I can try!
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I posted this question a couple of months ago. I have a 1999 Intrepid ES with the mid grade stereo. Not the base and not the Infinity. The separate power amp has gone out but I do not know where the amp actually is. I will have to re-wire all of the speakers in the car if I cannot find the amp to bypass it. It is a speaker level input amp so I will be able to by-pass it if I can find it.
    When I last posted this question, someone said that the amp was in the trunk near the DS rear wheel well. I did not find it there. Does anyone know for sure where the amp is?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Amp is on the passenger side in thr trunk.
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    I will look again. I did not see it.
  • fred222fred222 Member Posts: 200
    The amp is actually above the passenger side kick panel. I posted this same question on the Allpar forum and got the correct answer. I have tracked down the wires to the speakers and will be replacing the defective factory amp with an after market one. I have no idea how you would actually replace the factory amp if you wanted to. It is behind a structural member next to the glove box. Hopefully I will have music back after a long hiatus.
  • pruitt801pruitt801 Member Posts: 1
    Recently, the interior lights of my 2000 Intrepid have started to blink on and off at random. Has anyone experienced this? Is this some type of "code"?
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Just got our car back from the dealer. All we had was first and second gear. No speedo either. Had both speed sensors replaced. $45 parts and $150 labor.
    Not too happy about this, but the car is 6 years old. This is the only the second problem we have had with this car. I suppose I should not complain......
    Kinda quiet here lately.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    That doesn't sound too bad, especially in this day and age. Beats the heck out of needing a new transmission!

    Yeah, it has been kinda quiet here lately. My 2000 is up to about 120,500 miles. I'm going to take it in soon for a tranny service. I like to get them done every 30K miles on this car. Otherwise, it's been reliable. Made the last payment in November 2004, and probably haven't had to put more than $500 into it since then...including a new battery, oil changes, new rear brakes, an oil pan leak (my fault...I stripped it), and registration.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I have a 99 Intrepid ES 3.2 V6 since Feb of 99 and I have yet to find a vehicle with the styling or ride or economy of my ride. It gets 20+ in the city and I have gotten 32 on the highway once on a trip from Chicago to Oshkosh Wisconsin. 28 to 30 is normal for shorter highway trips.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I think I have been able to get my '00 with the 2.7 to get as bad at 17-18 mpg. But that would be some serious, short-trip, stop-and-go driving! And usually in the winter. I moved a few years back, reducing my commute from about 15 miles to 3.5. That really took its toll on mileage.

    Still, I have some older cars like a 1985 Silverado, 1979 New Yorker, and 1976 LeMans that I could get down into single digits in the same type of driving!

    I've broken 30 once or twice on the highway, but 26-28 seems to be the norm. Sometimes I wonder if I had sprung for a 3.2 what kind of mileage I would've gotten. Still I can't complain. 120K+ miles and no engine or tranny problems. Nothing really major at all, just an occasional minor annoyance here and there such as thermostat housing leaking, oil pressure light giving false readings, door seals shrinking, etc. I guess a false reading from the oil light is much better than a "true" reading, though! :surprise:
  • bishop753bishop753 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1997 Intrepid ES with the 3.5 engine, which gets me to and from work (about 34 miles one way). She gives me about 21.3 mpg and that is not being at full power :sick: . A tune-up would help out as well as getting my timing belt adjusted. Best car I have so far, guess I love the leg room since I'm 6'1".
  • froggersjcfroggersjc Member Posts: 51
    Could anyone please tell me where the Cam position sensor is on th 2.7L engine? The error code for this part came up on my 2004 SE. I'd like to fix it myself if possible.

    Thanks!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I tried looking around on the internet but couldn't find anything. However, I did find a picture of a camshaft position sensor on a BMW V-8. It was on the forward-facing part of the passenger-side head, just below the valve cover. Here's a pic of it.

    I know it's a totally different car, but it might at least give you a rough idea of what to look for, and where to look. Good luck!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    The cam position sensor 2.7 is located on the front of the engine on the timing case cover.
  • froggersjcfroggersjc Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the help, I found it. Its right out in the open on the front of the engine. Just below where the oil fill cap is. Took me 5 minutes to replace with only one bolt. Car runs great again and I saved $100 in that 5 mins. Hopes this helps if anyone else needs to change it on the 2.7L.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    cool, thanks for the info! BTW, other than using the code reader, is there any way to tell when your cam position sensor is going bad? I'm guessing that it at least triggers the check engine light?

    How did the car run with the bad sensor...did it just feel like it needed a major tuneup? I wonder if it's something I should do just as preventive maintenance?
  • froggersjcfroggersjc Member Posts: 51
    Yes, in my case the sensor did trigger the check engine light. One morning it took quite awhile to get the car started. This was the first major problem I noticed. It eventually started but took several attempts. It also ran rough off and on and hesitated a little. Its just kinda rediculous that it went out on a 2004. Basically all the sensor does is send a sigmoidal wave signal to keep track of engine position. I would think that it would either work completely or not at all. I'm no engineer, but that's my take. The part is around $50.
  • krispritchardkrispritchard Member Posts: 1
    both driver side windows wont work have checked fuses all ok. can hear a clicking sound in door when pushing button's. Please Help
  • blkngoldblkngold Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone posted a solution to this issue? I also have a '95 Intrepid 3.5 that just starting having the same issue with the flashers and hazard lights. I replaced the relay twice but all I get is the buzzing. None of the relays have helped.

    Somebody must have experienced this already, can you share? :confuse:
  • jddepuejddepue Member Posts: 2
    Hey folks

    Our 97 Intrepid 3.5 appears to be leaking fuel from the line that goes under the front of the intake manifold. Could that fuel line have come loose under there? Do you have any tips for removing the intake manifold to get at that fuel line?

    Thanks
    Dave
  • jhess821jhess821 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 intrepid with a 2.7 engine. Anyone know the best place to find the fan assembly for the radiator. The dealership wants over $350.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I wonder how much the junkyard would charge for something like that? It's been a few years since I've been to the junkyard, and back then most of the 2nd-gen Intrepids were there because they were wrecked in the front, so that would most likely destroy the fan. But that was back when they were still pretty new, and they weren't getting junked for engine/tranny failures, etc. I'm sure that by now though, there are enough Intrepids and Concordes that are getting junked simply because of old age, that you might be able to find non-wrecked examples to cannibalize some good parts from.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I was forced to take a trip to the local junkyard yesterday, because on Sunday someone ripped off my left front tire in a parking garage! :mad: Took the tire, hubcap, AND lugnuts, so the spare was useless!

    The junkyard had a bunch of Intrepids and Concordes, and I was right...they are getting to the point that you can find non-wrecked examples that are coming in because of a blown engine or other major problem. The Intrepid I pulled a wheel off of had a bad 2.7, but otherwise looked like it had beenfine. The front-end clip was gone, as were both front wheels, but thankfully it had both rear wheels, and one of them had a good tire with plenty of tread on it.

    So overall, this little catastrophe only cost me about $70. Guess it could've been worse. :surprise:
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Just checking in as it's been awhile. My 2000 ES 3.2 is about to turn 143,000 miles. Only recent repair was a pricey one, but decided to have it done. After several efforts to track down my malfunctioning A/C in late summer, it turns out the evaporator was bad. Most of the near $700 cost was labor as the dash is "in the way" of the repair. A blown Infinity speaker was replaced cheaply with a used unit.
    Hope all is well. I'm actively looking at 07' Pacifica's. The new 4.0 liter engine and 6 speed Autostick make it more appealing than the minivan options I was exploring. Best to all...
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    I cannot believe someone would go through the effort of stealing a steel wheel and tire. It really was an unlucky day for you to cross paths with such a loser!!!! With any luck the thief gets a blowout.(and wrecks).
    I have been casing the local junk yards to see if I can pick up a set of factory alloy wheels from either a Concord or an intrepid. So far no luck. Best I have seen is a set of three good ones. Really like the look of the spoke wheels they put on some of the cars.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Best I have seen is a set of three good ones. Really like the look of the spoke wheels they put on some of the cars.

    I thought about using this little fiasco as an excuse to get some factory alloys for my Intrepid. They had a wrecked R/T in the junkyard, but it only had three good ones. The front driver's side was damaged from the wreck.

    This hasn't exactly been a lucky month for me, vehicle-wise. On Friday I got rear-ended in my pickup truck. A car up ahead stopped rather abruptly to make a left turn from the lane, so the car behind it and me had to react even more quickly. Unfortunately, the Infiniti I30 behind me didn't stop fast enough, and smashed into me. Luckily all it did was bend my bumper down a bit and smash the bracket underneath. It's in the body shop now for an estimate. Hopefully there's no frame damage, but sometimes body-on-frame vehicles can be tricky like that. The I30 was a mess though. Still driveable, but the hood, fascia, grille, both headlights, and driver's side fender were smashed, and the radiator was pushed back a bit.

    I guess it's a good thing that I drove the truck that day and not my Intrepid. I know it wouldn't have fared nearly as well as the truck in that impact, and with my luck it would've been enough to total it! :sick:
  • bishop753bishop753 Member Posts: 8
    Hello people, it's been a minute since being here...

    Now for the question, has anyone had problems with their tie rods going bad?? :mad: It happened to me and the repair was estimated at $650!! Talk about a rip-off because one of the mechanics offered to fix it for $200 and the parts was no more than $113..go figure. The things just rusted out and also caused my finance to wreck, sad.
  • dipretnidipretni Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 intrepid with 102000 miles. Lately when I leave my yard the car seems to jump out of gearlike it is in nueltral I wait a few minutes and it goes on like nothing happened. It does this until car warms up then it runs fine the rest of tht day
  • larryp7524larryp7524 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, just checking to see if anyone may have a possible solution for my 02 Intrepid that keeps overheating. I have replaced the thermostat 3 times, the water pump, the pressure release valve, the fan relay, and the top and bottom hoses. Anybody have a similar problem that they were able to resolve or any ideas on what to do next? It has cost me about $2,000 so far and I am about ready to give up....HELP!!!!!!
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    If you don't get a response here soon, you may want to try posting over in the M&R Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc) topic.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Sorry I don't have any ideas for you. I'd think that most of that stuff you already did would have you covered. Unless, ulp, the radiator is going bad? Now personally, I've had good luck with my 2000 Intrepid 2.7, which has about 125,000 miles on it, but I have heard that the radiator can be a trouble spot.

    Whatever you do, don't try to drive it if it overheats. That can destroy these modern aluminum engines very easily, and the repair bills can be scary. How many miles do you have on it? I had my coolant changed around 45 months/85,000 miles, even though it's supposedly good for 60 months/100,000 miles.
  • jslslljslsll Member Posts: 2
    I took my 99 Intrepid to the dealer with a broken window washer. They said it needed a body control module, which could be installed for a mere $650+. WOW! Does anybody know of a better way to get this fixed?
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