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Dodge Intrepid

16162636466

Comments

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    Oh sure, that'll buff right out. :mad:

    I have a feeling this thing's going to be a total, simply because of the age and value of the car. I'm guessing book value is maybe $3,000 tops (retail, I doubt if trade-in would be half that). They tend to total out a car when the estimate exceeds 60% of the book retail value. And I'm sure the claims adjuster will be able to find $1800 worth of damage there.

    I could probably pull out the fender myself, and the headlight assembly's an easy replacement. And that fascia can probably be re-attached. So I could probably get the car semi-presentable again for not a whole lot of money. However, the electronic glitches that showed up (SES light and battery light coming on) scare me a bit. Even if there wasn't anything truly wrong with the car, I could only drive it like that until the next emissions test, which is less than a year away.
  • SilverBullet00SilverBullet00 Member Posts: 102
    Anyone interested in purchaseing a 2000 LHS,300M, Concorde and Intrepid Service Manual?
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    I agree with you. You take good care of a car and through no fault of yours it gets
    hit. You are the one who gets inconvenienced and hurt financially.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    What a nightmare. I always think about what I would do if something like this happened to me, or a $1500 or so mechanical repair.....Lets face it, the cars are worth $2000 tops trade, just about nothing with the damage. Looking at the damage it seems you could get away with a cheap do it yourself repair. Maaco would paint the whole car for cheap afterwards.....Lots of parts at junkyards. Silver was a popular color too so maybe no paint needed? Take the insurance money, buy back the car ,spend a weekend in the garage.....
    A quick check at a autozone would tell you why the warning lights are on. Hood open still?
    Or take the money and get the ES...onlything that would concern me would be the 3.2. Not sure, but think the 3.2 and 3.5 might have timing belts, not a chain like the 2.7. That would be a 10 year old essential rubber part. And at least a 1500 repair to get swapped. Did look like a nice one though. Getting rare to find in really nice shape.
    For the record-"hanging's too good....." no card or note or anything? Some people are too "nice" to have around.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    Nope, no note or anything. There were witnesses, but nobody got a tag #. It was a black pickup with toolboxes in the back, but that's the only description I got.

    Damn, a timing belt is $1500?! I hate to say it, but that's almost a deal beaker right there. IIRC, the owner's manual called for a timing belt change at 105,000 miles...but said nothing about age. And, like you said, that's a 10 year old rubber part! Is the 3.2/3.5 an interference engine?

    I guess even if it is totaled, buying it back from the insurance company could be an option. However, my insurance company said if I did that, they wouldn't let me have full coverage on the car anymore. But at 10 years and 150,000 miles, plus the fact it'll have a salvage title if I do that, maybe I don't need to worry about full coverage anymore. Even now, the full coverage insurance didn't do anything for me. Since it was hit and run, my car was covered under the Uninsured Motorist part of my insurance, something Maryland requires you to have (maybe other states, too?)

    Now that I think about it, one of my friends has a code reader. So I guess we could just plug it into the car's OBD port and see what it says. He bought the thing a few years ago when he had a 1998 Tracker that was always triggering idiot lights. Since I've had the Intrepid, I only had the check engine light come on once, in late 2007. And it went away after a few weeks.
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    The 3.2 liter does have a timing belt
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Just looked at Fitzmall, car is still there. I wonder how much they would move on the price. Probably have $2500 tops in the car. Made an offer?
    We are going to take a look at another car on Friday. 2008 Taurus with 18000 miles. Salesman called me to say they are cutting all the prices for the "big sale". We shall see.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    Just looked at Fitzmall, car is still there. I wonder how much they would move on the price. Probably have $2500 tops in the car. Made an offer?

    Nah, I haven't done much of anything yet. I think I'm just going to hang tight until I have the insurance money in my hand and my current Trep is towed away and out of my hair.

    Yesterday though, before heading off for the family thanksgiving festivities, I stopped off at a local used car lot that had a 1991 Caprice for sale. It's listed on their website for $3995, but no pics. Well, it didn't look too bad in the rain, except for the fact that it had four Oldsmobile hubcaps on it, that looked like they might've come off of a low-level early 80's Delta 88. Dealer was closed but the car was unlocked. I sat in it, and was really disappointed. I like big cars, but this one just seemed big in all the wrong places. My Trep probably has more legroom, both front and rear, and my head brushed the ceiling in back. Still, I could get comfortable in it, but I just thought it would be bigger inside! However, the interior was also a bit trashy. And I had forgotten how bad GM was starting to make their interiors around that time, with all the cheap hard plastic, knobs and buttons that look like they were made by Playskool, etc. If I could get it for $1500 I'd be tempted, as it's inspected, at least.

    I really don't NEED another car anytime soon, as I do have my old '79 5th Ave and '85 Silverado to fall back on. And while that 2000 ES is a tempting car, I'm starting to think that maybe it's just time to experience something different. I'm going to miss mine once it's finally gone, though. Maybe I'll pry the emblem off the fascia, just to have a memento.
  • SilverBullet00SilverBullet00 Member Posts: 102
    What I am trying to sell is the factory service manual not a Chiltons manual. $30 ships it in the USA. No torn or greased pages.
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Ok, My 95 intrepid has some electrical issue and I'm wondering if anyone out there is having the same problems.
    Trun ignition key on and the engine starts, but the instrument guages are inop. The transmision goes into "limp mode" that the gauges start working and everything is fine.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    tow truck came and towed away my wrecked 2000 Intrepid. So the reality is hitting home...it's gone. Oh well...maybe it'll get parted out and help to keep other 2nd-gen Intrepids on the road. Or maybe someone bold/naiive enough will buy it and try to put it on the road again.

    I'm gonna miss that car, though. Only car I've ever bought new. And when I bought it, it was sort of a symbol of a turning point in my life. I had gone through a bad divorce in '96 that left me pretty bad in debt. But I was able to turn that around, got it paid off in 2 1/2 years, was able to refinance my home to a much lower rate in summer of '99, and by November '99, my credit was good enough that I qualified for Chrysler's 0.9 financing. Final reading on the odometer was 150,351, and I had it for 10 years, 1 month, and two days.

    Still no idea on what I'm going to replace it with. The 2000 Intrepid ES I had found for sale online has sold. I was attracted to it, but after 10 years figured maybe it's time to try something a bit different. Today I found a 2000 Bonneville SE with leather, sunroof, alloys, etc, white, 65000 miles, for $4734. I might go check it out on Thursday. In a twisted sort of way, maybe that would be appropriate, as I thought of the Bonneville as the Intrepid's closest competitor.
  • barbowl300barbowl300 Member Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 99. It was using alot of oil. Most likely the valve stem seals have gotten brittle. The heads run very hot and ruin the rubber for the seals. I replaced the valve stem seals at 150k and now have 220k on the engine with no oil loss what so ever. You can change the valve stem seals without removing the heads. I took the heads of to change them. Had a speed shop tank and re-lap the valves. There was a lot of carbon in the combustion chamber and that could cause the knocking since it changes the compression ratio. After repairing, change the oil every 3k and only use 10W30. Anything higher in weight will sludge the engine. I have used nothing but Penzoil in this car and there was no sludge what so ever in the motor. Hope this helps.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    Today I deposited the insurance payoff for my poor, totaled Intrepid. Came out to $1,988.73. And I also picked up its replacement...a 2000 Buick Park Ave Ultra that's just about fully-loaded. It's a nicer car in many ways than my Intrepid, but when you consider it was almost twice the original MSRP, it better be. Still, as nice of a car as it is, I know I'm going to miss that Intrepid.
  • lipstix30lipstix30 Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Dodge Intrepid ES leaks fuel whenever I start the car. When I turn the car off, there's no leakage at all. My husband kind've looked under the hood and noticed some type of glass case which he thinks may be the fuel pump or something and thinks it may be cracked.
    Has anyone else heard of this or have any suggestions?
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Nice car. I always liked the Buicks. IIRC the Ultra is the supercharged version of the 3.8 liter. It must fly!
    Well, this must make me about the last survivor from the days when this forum was full of people talking about their new Intrepids. I think one of the first posts I read here was about your car being broken into at some amusement park. Seems like just yesterday when my wife and came home with our new car. Hard to believe it was the low financing that actually had me test driving a Dodge. Dealer kicked in a couple hundred bucks and called it "0"% financing or something like that.
    95000 miles on the old girl-drove home from work today doing 75-80 on the highway-and 0 regrets about the purchase so far.
    Hey, I hope the buick works out for you as well as the Intrepid did.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    The fuel pump is probably right in the tank-that is the usual spot in most modern cars. That being said, gas does catch on fire rather easily. If not sure what you are looking at I would get the car towed to a competant mechanic. Fuel pumps are usually on anytime the ignition is on, gas sprayed on the exhaust system or anything hot can be deadly. To the car at the very least. Why take a chance?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    Thanks, it seems to be a pretty good car so far. I still miss my Intrepid, though! It's pretty quick with the supecharged 3.8, although for some reason I thought it would be faster. Maybe because it's a bigger, heavier car than the Intrepid? Also, it doesn't rev nearly as high as the Intrepid did, and I'm sure it has more insulation and stuff, so perhaps all that just conspires to make it feel slower than it is?

    I think my Intrepid handled better. This Park Ave bounces around a lot more than the Trep did, although it never feels unstable. And while it pretty much silences most of the smaller bumps in the road, it doesn't seem to handle the big ones any better than the Trep did. And when you consider the price points of the cars, I think the Intrepid's interior was a more valiant effort. Just little things, like the pop-out cupholder in the Trep versus this flimsy thing that folds out of the center armrest on the Park Ave. Or the Trep's bigger glovebox and deeper door pockets. Or even the trunk struts on the Trep, versus the mammoth, luggage-crunching gooseneck hinges on the Park Ave. Oh, and when you pop the Park Ave's trunk open, better make sure nobody's standing over it, because it'll knock them out as it flies open to a 90 degree angle. And you can't keep it down either, unless you totally close it. Great for rainy weather. :sick:

    But, I'm nitpicking for the most part. It's still a nice car, and I'm happy with it so far. I just still miss my Intrepid! :cry:
  • bubaluphagusbubaluphagus Member Posts: 3
    I need to swap my 2.7 out for a 3.2. I would like to know what kind of mileage these 3.2s are lasting for. Three of the five 3.2 engines in Washington state have 135k on them. Are these 200 or 250k engines, or am I going to end up replacing the engine again in a few thousand miles. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 1999 Intrepid which I bought new in June 2000. Now has 162K miles and I'm driving it from Denver to LA next week. I wish they still made them. I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
  • grant74grant74 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Intrepid with a 3.5L. After driving for about 20-30 minutes the low oil pres. light will come on when I apply the brakes to stop, it goes out upon acceleration. (oil level is good, oil changed every 3000 miles) Any ideas?
  • james234james234 Member Posts: 7
    Hi Grant assuming the oil level is full, it sounds like the oil pressure sensor is bad so I would change the oil filter and see if it will still light up. If it still lights you may have a bad oil pump.
  • terri15terri15 Member Posts: 2
    1995 Dodge Intrepid. First the Dimmer switch went out, replaced it. lights on the dash panel (ABS, Gas Gauge, Air Bag, etc) dont always go off some of them work some of the time and some of them dont. Its what the car wants at the time. Even the motors in the windows quit working, had them replaced, now they wont work again. Now you can put the vehicle in Drive, Reverse, or any other place and its just like you did nothing to it, it wont move, only when it decides too. I really need help I have put mega bucks into fixing the car and the same stuff keeps happening all over again...I really love the car but just cant figure out what the problem could be.

    desperate for help
  • terri15terri15 Member Posts: 2
    my 95 intrepid is doing the same thing but is getting worse...did you ever find out what the problem was????
  • chelseychelsey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Dodge intrepid. V6 3.5L - a couple of months ago - I was making a U turn & it died out, wouldn't start again. Mechanic said it was the timing? - Got that fixed, then the oil light started to come on.. to make a long story short, 3 diagnostic test's, 2 mechanics and $600.00 later, the oil light STILL comes on at idle/stop & below 2000rpm. Engine light is also on. It seems like the oil light goes on sooner, as the car warms up & is ran for a while. When I step on the gas - it sounds like a washing machine. Like the engine needs more power. One test said it was my gas cap, one mechanic said it wasn't my oil pressure, but no one can figure it out! Too much $$ to go to the dealer, no warranty. Thoughts? Please HELP! :sick:
  • grant74grant74 Member Posts: 2
    My 96 had the oil light problem when I turned or applied the brakes, the light would come on.....turned out to be the low oil sensor by the oil filter, cost about 14 dollars, replaced it myself...solved the problem. Good luck
  • coop85coop85 Member Posts: 1
    Are you sure that you do not have the infinity system? If you have tweeters in your door and in your dash then you do. But anyway if you are sure that your car has the factory amp, it is located on the passenger side kick panel, once you remove the panel and look up, you will see the amplifier. What sort of a noise was your car making when you tried to play music? Because mine sounded like a pair of headphones even when the system was turned all the way up.
  • jeffery6jeffery6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 dodge intrepid thats having electrical issues. dash lights will fricker, headlights also if on then they will go off just for a second.radio will also go off and speakers will pop.Doesnt do it all the time just when it wants to. can anyone help?
  • jeffery6jeffery6 Member Posts: 2
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    my 2000 Intrepid got totaled when someone pulled a hit-and-run on it in a restaurant parking lot. Hell of an anniversary to remember, but it sticks with me. Just thought I'd pop in, and see if there's any activity still going on here. Nice to see a few of you guys still have your Intrepids running.

    I miss mine. It was just a base model, with the 2.7, but it was a good car, and the only brand-new car I've ever bought. It had about 150,000 miles on it when it got totaled.

    Oh, as for the oil pressure light coming on, mine did that too. There's a TSB for it. In my case it was just some sensor that got too hot, and in some instances where it didn't get enough air flow, such as stopped at a traffic light, fully warmed up, it would flicker. Mine started doing it around 85-90,000 miles, I think.
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    My sympathy to you for your loss. My 1999 Intrepid is still going strong with 178,000 miles. I bought it new in June 2000. In September of this year I drove it 4300 miles from the Denver area to LA and from Imperial Beach to Oregon along the California coast and back home. It averaged 26 mpg as registered on the meter in the overhead console. Driving time was something like 85 hours. The only thing I don't like about this car is that I love it so much I can't get rid of it. There is nothing in my price range to replace it.
  • vantimbovantimbo Member Posts: 1
    I have read many posts about water leaks on the driver side front interior. Has anyone figured out where the leak is? Mine started this winter. I resealed the winshield to no results. It isnt leaking coolent, just water. I own a 2000 and have had it since brand new.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Just in case you stop by again.....
    The old girl just got her 115000 mile oil change. I put new fuel tank straps on last Nov. Still runs well. Starting to have a few minor rust spots that will need attention this Spring. I will need to replace the stabilizer arm bushings frt and rear, and new front brakes. Also need to get in the dashboard and replace the light bulbs....also drivers side rear door locking actuator needs done...All can wait until warmer weather comes. I use the Intrepid for a daily commuter now that my wife got a newer car. Average just under 30 mpg. I run the old girl extra in the winter-does very well in the snow, the heat/defroster is a lot better than in my regular commuter.
    The roominess and auto trans also sorely missed when I drive my other car.
    Still wish Chrysler had replaced the car with another FWD....
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    Have you ever replaced the map lights in the overhead console? I have one light out and am afraid of cracking the plastic housing. Don't see how to remove it to get at the bulbs. Mine is a '99 with 180k miles and going strong. I love it. Bob
  • hd1200sport99hd1200sport99 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    Hey all, I have an 04 SE that was a Florida car, love it to death, but want to do a little cosmetic work on it. I have been looking at new front bumper skins, as I am interested in getting the ES skin that has the fog lamps. There are multiple different companies that I have found that sell them at a fairly cheap price, but cant seem to find anything on fitment compatibility. Anyone have any knowledge to lend?
  • timtreetimtree Member Posts: 5
    edited February 2011
    This is a 1997 Intrepid with the 3.5 L engine.

    There is a grouding strap attached to the head under the driver side valve cover (see photo). The bottom half is rotted away and I can't see where it attached.

    Can someone tell me where this ground went? Thanks.

    Also, the reason I am under the car is there is a sporatic "clunk" (feels like it is under the floor/lower fire wall driver's side) when braking. This seems to happen regularly the first time you take the car out and brake moderately or hard. I also can sometimes make it happen when I back up quickly, or brake after backing up quickly.

    I've been under the car. Not much rust or rot on this car for a 1997 in NE. All the ball joints, steering linkages engine and transmission mounts seem to be in good shape and tight, as do the axles and CV joints (rotational play is miniscule or non-existent, no "clicking sound when driving or turning). Connecting rods and bushings for the steering rack-and-pinion were replaced recently (this clunk happened before and after), as was the passanger side strut. Driver's side strut seems fine (looks like it may have been replace recently).

    Any ideas on this clunking would also be apprieciated.

    Tim

    image
  • timtreetimtree Member Posts: 5
  • timtreetimtree Member Posts: 5
    Sorry, they make it too difficult to post a picture. I've put dozens of photo URLs on other better forum sites, after half an hour I give up on this one.
  • chimpawoochimpawoo Member Posts: 5
    Ok, i've changed spark plugs before but this engine is a bit different and before i go poking and prodding around i figure i should prolly ask someone with some info, any pictures would be helpful as well. The problem is that they are obviously deep in there and under the air intake what method/process should i use to change plugs and wires, getting a p0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) so wanted to start there as i have not done it in a long time and have avoided it due to the fact its different
  • hallroger03hallroger03 Member Posts: 1
    On my 1999 2.7 liter there are six coil packs you can see, they are not below the air intake. Each coil sits directly on top of the spark plug. There are no spark plug wires. If I remember correctly there is a green or black wire going to the coil pack. Disconnect it. Next remove the two star screws on the coil pack and remove it the long rubber piece is the spark plug boot. After that it all becomes pretty obvious the spark plug is down in the shaft. If you have a misfire try replacing the plug fist but I bet you will end up replacing the coil pack.
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    Has anyone replaced an auto-stick transmission in a 1999 3.2 Intrepid? I am about to do so with a Jasper rebuilt and wondering about other's experiences.
  • rustbucket587rustbucket587 Member Posts: 1
    dodge intrepids the 2.7 v6 absolute trash they were built with all kinds of flaws in the engines
  • alleycat10alleycat10 Member Posts: 18
    I drove my 2001 Intrepid SE 129,000 miles with no serious problems with the 2.7l engine, outside of having to replace the water pump at about 95,000 miles. I traded it for a new Honda Odyssey as I needed more passenger and luggage space for long trips. It was the best car I'd ever owned. To prevent problems with engine sludging, I changed oil every 5000 miles using 5w20 full synthetic oil.
  • imbeccabooimbeccaboo Member Posts: 1
    did you ever figure out what was causing your air bag light to come on and the windows quit working? my car just started doing that ...
    thanks
  • jhhfpdjhhfpd Member Posts: 1
    Im having the same exact issue. Did you ever find a resolution?
  • leeangeloleeangelo Member Posts: 2
    I had this same problem on my 2000 2.7 dodge intrepid. It was the oil sending unit sensor I think that was defective. There was oil leaking inside of it and was causing this issue. Not sure if its the same thing on your 3.5 though...
  • tkfitz1tkfitz1 Member Posts: 36
    Just turned 140000, still running great. I use it every other day or so for my commute. Average just under 30 mpg. I will have to do rear brakes, front stabilizer arm links and bushings this spring. New tires before next winter. A couple little bubbles in the paint near the gas cap. A small list for a 12 year old car.
    I still wish we could have bought a new one.
  • alleycat10alleycat10 Member Posts: 18
    edited April 2012
    I bought a 2001 Intrepid SE with the 2.7 liter V6. The engine is poorly designed and needs close watching to make it last. The engine compartment stays mighty hot when the engine is warmed up, the engine flanked closely on both sides with catalytic converters that heat the engine compartment and the engine externally more than I have seen with any other car. Knowing that, I changed the oil in mine each 5000 miles using full synthetic 5w20 from new on, driving about 22,500 miles per year. At about 90,000 miles, the timing chain-driven water pump started leaking at the seal, so took it to a mechanic for replacement. He found signs of oil sludging present, even with frequent oil changes and mostly highway miles, so replaced the timing chain tensioner which depends on oil pressure for proper chain tension. This engine has three timing chains, one main one and one for each of the two camshafts. He told me that many a Chrysler 2.7 L engine has failed catastrophically at relatively low miles due to timing chain tensioner malfunction due to oil sludging.

    While he was at it, my mechanic also replaced the upper tie rod ends that had lost lubrication due to rubber boots surrounding them rotted by the high engine compartment temperatures, this at only four years of use. I ended up driving this car 129,000 miles and, because of the finicky engine design, will never own another Chrysler product. I had a 1999 Chrysler 300M ahead of this car, it being a big troublemaker due to transmission problems at 38,000 miles total.
  • alleycat10alleycat10 Member Posts: 18
    My 2001 Intrepid did the same for years, quite infrequently. My mechanic looked but couldn't find a problem. He said to wait for a complete failure or a diagnostic code. I traded the car, having never pinpointed the problem
  • shadetree78shadetree78 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same car and had the same trouble, it was the bearings. It cost me about $100 bucks at the local garage to have it fixed.
  • shadetree78shadetree78 Member Posts: 2
    My Intrepid was running fine until the other day I pulled into the drive got out for something then went to leave again and nothing! I get no response when I turn the key. All the electronics come on lights, radio, relay switches, etc but no further response from the starter or motor. I did the key trick with the check engine light and got a code 21, as far as I can find that means as issue with the PCM. The PCM was replaced with a used one in 2003. Where is the PCM and can it be tested?
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