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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • gambitt01gambitt01 Member Posts: 1
    new to this forum. I have a 91 dodge caravan that will not start. It is not gettind spark and no fuel. someone told me of a sensor that tells the engine when it needs spark and fuel but i need to know the name of the part/parts and where they are on the engine i also have a 89 plymonth voyager and need to know if those sensors are interchangeable with the 91.....thanks
  • danieldkkdanieldkk Member Posts: 9
    May I ask where the Charcoal cannister is?
  • shg1027shg1027 Member Posts: 2
    Don't know if you have fixed your problem with the wipers but mine was doing the same thing. I received a recall concerning the clockspring. When I had that done it fixed my problem. Hope this helps.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I believe it is in the general area of the gas tank. There will be a hose coming off of the tank to collect the fumes and if you trace where it goes, you'll find the cannister.
  • stormdragon69stormdragon69 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 Grand Voyager LE and had similar problems. Gradually things started acting up all over the place. I was beginning to think I might have a bad alternator, or might have to replace the computer. Reading on another site I found out that others have had similar problems. Apparently the lead-type battery that the Voyager or Caravan uses is notorious for getting corroded. We cleaned the terminals and cable ends with a solution of baking soda and water and then re-fastened them, and it seems to be fine. Before you spend money at a garage and replace things that don't need replacing, try cleaning your battery connections (and make sure they're good and tight). It might just fix your problems.
  • amazonamazon Member Posts: 293
    I got the diagnosis for my non functioning A/C on my '94 Plymouth Voyager with the single system:
    1. Compressor leaking (I can change this myself)
    2. Receiver/ dryer leaking (I can do this)

    3. Evaporator leaking :sick:

    How do I change the evaporator? I heard that you have to remove the whole instrument panel. Is this true? Also, how can you see the dye without removing the dash board then? :confuse:
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Hello Everyone,

    I was at the dealer for a routine oil change today and was told that the spark plug wires are developing cracks and need to be replaced. This is something that I would like to do myself. I have read/heard how hard it is to get at the back three plugs. The service guy told me that they would have to remove the wiper crawl, or something like that. Has anybody every done it this way? What are the steps? How much time did it take?

    Thanks and Have a Blessed Day. :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've heard of may folks doing the wires and plugs without messing with the Cowl cover. That having been said, it looks a heck of a lot easier to do with the cover off.

    Per the manual that I just got in the mail yesterday, the R&R of the Cowl Cover is as follows:

    1) Remove the wiper arms, then remove the screws that hold the lower area of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
    2) Disenage the quarter-turn fastners that hold the outer ends of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
    3) Open the hood and release the wingnuts that hold the front of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
    4) Close the hood but do not latch it. Now remove the outboard screws and lift the cowl cover up enough to get to the washer hose.
    5) Disconnect the washer hose from the right washer nozzle. Lift the cowl cover toward the windshield and off the vehicle.
    6) Installation is the reverse of removal.

    I hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey gang, I just had "Used Oil Analysis" (UOA) run on our 1998 3.8 DGC and the results are a mixed bag at best.

    The good news is that even with 115,500 miles on the engine at the time the sample was taken, the wear numbers and such look extremely good. So, what's the bad news? Coolant. According to the report, 0.29% of my engine oil was coolant, which BTW equates to roughly five and a quarter ounces of Ethylene Glycol having made its way into my oil pan over a period of 7,500 miles. As some of y'all might know, Ethylene Glycol does LOTS of damage to engine bearings in very short order.

    Stepping back and thinking about this, our van's engine got real hot one day back in the fall of 1998 (the van was about five months old then) when we were visiting some friends and took a scenic mountain road instead of the local highway. Said mountain road was VERY STEEP and the only reason why I noticed that anything was wrong at all was when the van's computer cut back on the power and limited it to only first and second gear. A quick look at what I call the "Idiot Gauge" confirmed that things were plenty hotted up under the hood. As soon as we stopped climbing, the van cooled enough to return full power to the engine and shiftability to the transmission.

    The next summer (when the van was about a year old) I noticed that the coolant was about a quart low, and each and every summer since then I've needed to add a quart of coolant. All along I've just assumed that evaporation was the most likely culprit for my coolant loss. Now, with this latest information I'm thinking that it's been leaking into the oil pan all along. Was the hot engine event of 1998 responsible for the slow leak? Don't know. Is the leak a result of a blown head gasket? A cracked or warped head or heads? They are aluminum after all. A cracked block? Don't know any of those either, however, my bet is a head gasket that allows coolant to make it to the oil drain galleries that carry oil from the valves and rocker arms back in to the oil pan.

    So, attempting to think about this logically, my average driving speed was about 42 mph over the course of this 7,500 mile Oil Change Interval, and that means that the engine was operational for about 180 hours. Said another way, about one ounce of coolant leaked into the oil for every 34 hours of operation. Not exactly a fast leak. Oh, wait! Roughly half of coolant is water (which evaporates rapidly when the engine oil reaches operating temperature) so let's double the leakage numbers. Hmmm, one ounce of coolant every 17 hours. Still not what I would call a fast leak.

    On the surface it seems that I have several options:
    1) Continue to use the Mobil 1 that I've been using since the van had about 15,000 miles on the clock. I'm currently using 0W-40, and before it was widely available I used 0W-30 and before that I used 5W-30. I consider this (i.e. doing nothing different) an option because apparently the Mobil 1 is able to hold its own against the debilitating effects of the coolant contamination; after all, it seems that I've had a coolant leak for well over 100,000 miles.
    2) Do the same as Option 1 except change the coolant from Ethylene Glycol to Propylene Glycol, which apparently isn't as toxic to engine bearings.
    3) Buy a head gasket set and spend a weekend wrenching.
    4) Buy a pair of reconditioned heads (anywhere from $150 per to $300 per) in addition to the head gasket set and spend the same weekend wrenching.
    5) Pull the heads one weekend, send them out to a shop for reconditioning and put them back on the next weekend (I'd need to hitch a ride to work for a couple of days).

    For the moment at least, I've decided to go with Option #2. Why? Well, one reason only. Per the Amsoil web site, they claim their Propylene Glycol coolant has the following properties:
    Stops Leaks
    AMSOIL Antifreeze & Coolant adheres to metal. It self-seals hairline cracks in welds and seams to prevent leaks, without additional stop-leak products or fibrous materials.


    While I'm very opposed to "Stop Leak" products in general (I've seen too much internal damage to heater cores and radiators to trust that crud), I'm thinking that this stuff might just do the trick. I ordered three gallons (our van has the "Rear Heater" and Propylene Glycol needs a slightly higher coolant to water ratio than Ethylene Glycol) of Amsoil coolant yesterday and plan on putting it in sometime next week. I will then put another couple of thousand miles on the current engine oil and then change it at 120,000. I'm hoping that the Amsoil stuff isn't all marketing hype and has actually stopped my internal leak by the 120K mark. Unfortunately I won't find out until I hit 127,500 miles when I send in that next batch of oil for analysis.

    Any thoughts or recommendations?

    Oh! Sorry for the long post.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I can't tell you what to do, however your experience is another good justification to stick to a 3000 mile oil change interval, with conventional nonsynthetic oil. Any contamination like you have would accumulate at a lower concentrations with frequent oil changes.

    I change my own oil, buying brand name but rebated oil, generally with rebates of $.59 per quart. Filters about $3-$4. Oil change less than $8. Cheap insurance.

    Given the age and value of your van at this point, I would consider using Stop Leak as well. Hard to justify dumping a lot of money in an aging vehicle.

    Another option is replace it. We just bought, at the end of June, a new GC Caravan SE with Stow and Go and an option package including three row AC. Over $7K off MSRP. Just a hair over $19.5K plus TTL. Paid about $2K less than we paid for our short wheel base 1996 Caravan SE Sport ten years ago! A few less bells and whistles than the 1996, but then again a few new ones too, primarily the Stow and Go and the three zone AC.

    Of course, it is always cheaper on your finances to keep an old vehicle running, if you are willing to put up with increasing levels of unreliability and repair rates.

    Now my next chore is to sell the 96. Didn't trade it in as dealers will not give you squat for a ten year old in trade, despite its immaculate condition and fairly low mileage for its age, 89K.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I can't tell you what to do, however your experience is another good justification to stick to a 3000 mile oil change interval, with conventional nonsynthetic oil. Any contamination like you have would accumulate at a lower concentrations with frequent oil changes.

    Hmmm, interesting. I guess it all depends upon perspective. I've been using synthetic oil and extended OCIs (10K-12K miles) for the last 100,000 miles on this van, and even with the coolant contamination, the UOA (which can be seen at shipo, "Synthetic motor oil" #6389, 8 Jul 2006 9:40 am ) shows that the engine is in extremely good condition. If I was to switch to a 3,000 mile OCI, I would be changing my oil every four to five weeks, no thanks, that's just too much like work. :P

    Regarding keeping the van and methods of keeping it running, well, I figure that I can do a complete top end overhaul for about $650 (about what, two car payments?) and given that the engine is still only consuming a quart of oil in 7,500 miles, I figure the lower end is in pretty good condition. True, the van is nearing 120,000 miles, however, it seems to be in good enough condition to easily make it to the 200K mark and then some.

    As you mentioned, the other option is to buy a new one, however, given the number of miles that I'm currently driving (29,000 in the last 12 months), and the number of miles I'll be driving this time next year (the company that I'm contracting to is moving our offices twenty miles further up the road), buying new (or even used but newer that what I have) is money down the drain at a rather quick rate. I'm thinking that from a pure financial perspective, nothing is going to beat this van.

    Of course, truth be told, I've had a new car every three to four years for the last quarter of a century and I really WANT another new one now. It's just that I've never had to consistently drive so many miles and so new cars made more sense from a financial perspective.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Too bad you live on the East Coast----I have a very good used '96 Caravan I could sell you! :)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Funny thing, when I read your last post, that very thought occurred to me. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    You didn't say which engine you have and it may not make any difference but last summer, I changed plugs and wires on our 01 with the 3.8L engine. It took a little patience but really wasn't that bad and I certainly didn't do anything with the cowl.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    A good repair facility can pressurize the cooling system in order to determine if there are internal leaks. The cost of the diagnostics might well be offset by pinpointing where your problem is before diving in before possibly doing an unnecessary repair.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've asked about that elsewhere and so far no answer. So, assuming that there are no leaks in the radiator, the heater core and the hoses, how exactly do they pinpoint where the leak is inside of an engine without partially disassembling the engine?

    I ask because I'm pretty sure the leak is from a bad head gasket, however, I don't want to tear it apart to find that both gaskets are fully intact (meaning that the problem is most likely one of the two heads).

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Thanks Shipo. I will be doing it in a few weeks. I will let you all know how it went. It looks pretty easy from you instructions.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Sorry about that. It's the 3.8L engine. So how did you get at the rear plugs and wires? How long did it take and was it hard? :D
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    From what I remember, it was mostly from the top and mostly by feel(and maybe a few bad words). I've also done my Bonneville and that was much worse. You'll have to use a combination of extensions and a swivel but again, I felt it was pretty straight forward.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Assuming that pressurizing the cooling system indicates an internal engine leak, they would then do a compression test. If the test shows low compression on two adjacent cylinders, that's a head gasket leak. If the compression check is ok, then that would indicate a cracked head.
  • lotsofvanslotsofvans Member Posts: 1
    Just laid down $3100 for a very clean 98 Caravan (private), switched my insurance, drove it for 3 miles to test, and let my wife have it... when she called me to report a fire that required the rear right interior to be ripped out, as flames were coming out the speaker grill! :cry: No apparent previous damage, no aftermarket add-ons... just a short? Can speakers get that hot, and so what about the fusing system? Anybody got a gray front-ended wreck to scrap out?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Assuming that pressurizing the cooling system indicates an internal engine leak, they would then do a compression test. If the test shows low compression on two adjacent cylinders, that's a head gasket leak. If the compression check is ok, then that would indicate a cracked head.

    Hmmm, I'm thinking that there is a third possibility. I've wrenched on plenty of engines (in years gone by) that had neither a compression problem on any cylinders or a cracked head. The problem would instead turn out to be a failed head gasket between a coolant gallery and either the lifter valley (on "V" type engines) or an oil return drain, both of which will allow coolant to drain into the oil pan without a crack or a low cylinder.

    FWIW, while I haven't performed a compression test, I have no indication that there is a low cylinder (which doesn't necessarily mean that there isn't one). I suppose a cylinder leak down test and a borescope could help rule out a leak into a cylinder, however, having that diagnosis performed will cost at least half of the total cost of overhauling the top end of the engine.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I've also been thinking some more about it and you're right. Not saying this is the same but the GM 3.8L engines have had a terrible problem since 1996 with leaks from the intake manifold into the engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    why don't you run some block sealant. Maybe you have a really minor defect in the gasket in a non-critical area.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Why don't you run some block sealant. Maybe you have a really minor defect in the gasket in a non-critical area.

    Back in my "Wrenching" days I saw too many plugged up heater cores from the various "stop leak" products. Of course I lived in San Diego in those days and so a plugged heater core was of little consequence. I now live in southern New Hampshire, and trust me, there are times when I need every calorie of heat I can get from the heater core (and I'm a guy who likes it cold).

    The course of action that I've embarked upon is to flush out my (new as of last month) Ethylene Glycol coolant and replace it with Amsoil Propylene Glycol (which is apparently far less toxic to bearings) sometime next week (whenever it gets here). I'm not a fan of Amsoil (or their marketing practices), however, if there is even a shred of truth to their claims of leak elimination, the Amsoil PG might just do the trick. If by November (when I'm expecting to do my next UOA) I'm still showing coolant leakage I'll decide whether to take a chance on a stop leak product or just fix the problem, regardless of whether it's a bad gasket or a warped or cracked head.

    I'll keep y'all posted. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • rob2003176rob2003176 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan. I was recently coming back from a trip when my wife noticed a humming noise coming from under the van. When we got home I jacked up the van, put it on jack stands, started the vehicle and found the source of the noise.

    I'm wondering if this noise is the fuel pump, or something else? And if it is the fuel pump (or something else) how difficult would it be to change the component. I consider myself handy with a wrench.
  • jasonmwcjasonmwc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2006 GC SXT with 2200 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that there is a noise (almost like something rubbing) and a very slight vibration in the steering wheel when I turn. I was wondering if anybody else had noticed this. Thanks.
  • zlfanaticzlfanatic Member Posts: 18
    I have a 96 Caravan that the stock cassette radio keeps going in and out, sometimes it would work fine and then the next time I start it nothing. I have talked to other Dodge and Chrysler owners that had the same problem, they just replaced the head unit. Is there a repair for this? :cry:
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    I have a 2001, and received a recall notice about exactly what you are describing. It was something about condensation from the AC unit dripping into the radio (in the dash) causing rear speaker to catch fire!? I never took mine in, as I have installed an aftermarket radio/CD player. They said this recall was to install a shield on the radio.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well that clogging comes from overkill...people add more than the recommended amounts, that's what causes the problem. Or they use shoddy products. We're talking filling up defects the size of a fingernail scratch, not plugging a hole.
  • lengenelengene Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Plymonth Espresso. We have the same kind of trouble. We never know when it is going to happen. Whenever this happens, I start the car and it dies immediately. It will start 3 times and die. After the third time it will not even turn the engine over. It is sometimes 15 minutes or sometimes overnight before it will start. The previous owner had the same problem. It has been to a Chrysler dealer 2 or 3 time and a local mechanic without finding the cause.
    The last two times that it has happened I disconnected the battery, the first time for about 15 minutes and today about 45 minutes. After reconnecting the battery it started both times. I am still experiment what to do when this happens.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I have a 2001 with the same problem. It was noticeable when turning the steering wheel with the vehicle parked. Also noticed it a low speeds when turning the steering wheel. Symptom was a shudder feel in the steering wheel and a rubbing noise. There is a TSB on this. I finally took it to the dealer and they replaced the power steering reservoir and a return hose. The original hose was only a few inches long. They replaced it with a length of rubber hose that's a foot long. They also replaced the power steering fluid with ATF4. The cause of the noise vibration is due to air being trapped in the steering rack. The longer hose is suppose to cure this. I've notice a decrease in the symptoms after the work was done, but still feel a bit of a shudder. The dealer mentioned it could take a while for all the air to purge itself out of the system. I'll report back after my next oil change if it turns out to cure the problem fully.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    Anyone know of any tips on how to change the PCV valve on a 2001 caravan with the 3.3L engine. I can't seem to get a wrench behind the rear valve cover to unscrew the valve.
  • trashman1980trashman1980 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 01 grand caravan, when you go over bumps it has a very fast clunking noise up front, doesnt do it over smooth bumps or dips in the roadway though.I found a broken sway bar link so i replaced both links and sway bar bushings,and i actually think it might be worse? any suggestions or simmilar problems? thanks in advance
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We had both outer tire rods replaced in april because of a clunking noise from up front when going over the bumps. That solved the problem.(We have an 01 DGC EX with over 77K)
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    I brought my Wife's 2005 T&C into the dealer for an oil change and to have them look into a creaking noise under the car and a clicking ot ticking noise coming from the belts in the engine area.

    The dealer just called me back and said the spare was loose under the car which caused the creaking noise. They told me an edge of the belt in the engine is getting chewed up on one edge and tech needs to find out whats wrong with it. Does anyone have any info on these issues? Common to this van?

    These 2 new issues are on top of other issues we have run into in the past: Steering fluid resevoir swapped for new, new power steering lines installed. Rear buzzer (?) replaced when it quit working.

    All this in only 19,000+ miles.....making us a bit nervous. At least with our extended warranty, we get a free loaner. I'm drivng a Jeep Liberty Limited. We have gotten our money's worth from them providing loaners to us while its in the shop.....
  • jdvoigtjdvoigt Member Posts: 4
    Replaced the evaporator and drier due to hole in evaporator. A/C cooled fine for about 10 days, then was "cool" but not cold like it should be. Brought it back in, and they found a bad expansion valve. Replaced that, and again, it was cold for about 7-10 days, now barely cool. System was pressure checked and there appears to be no leaks. This has been going on for about 4 months now, and I don;t know what to do next. If anyone has any ideas what else it could be, please respond.
  • ecnirpecnirp Member Posts: 20
    2002 T&C EX - 51K miles.

    This morning I took the car out and had no problems. 6 hours later I go into the garage and the van will not start up. There was a little bit of light on the dash and then I lost it when I turned the key. Just the old clicking noise.

    Jump started the car and took it around the block. Lights on the dash were flickering on and off and the gauges were not stable. Then then the battery light came on so I parked the car.

    Do I need a new battery or could it be the alternator or something else? Is there an easy way to diagnose? Could a shop just hook something to the battery to determine the issue?
  • mrguttermanmrgutterman Member Posts: 1
    CODES P0300 $ P0304 ( MISFIRE #4 ) I HAVE CHANGED THE CAP ROTOR PLUGS WIRES .AND STILL GET A MISFIRE IN #4 . PLUG LOOKS GOOD NO OIL . I WQAS TOLD PTHE COIL IS BAD . BUT WHY WOULD IT MISFIRE ONLY ON #4 .

    THANKS,
    MIKE
  • krgraykrgray Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan ES and the strangest thing is happening , the left turn signal will not cancel under normal 90 degree turns. If I sit still and activate the signal light I can cancel it buy turning the steering wheel to the left slightly and the back to straight, however when in motion the signal will not normally cancel.

    Has anyone else experienced this problem and can offer some advice ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    System could be overcharged, causing condensor to freeze. Is it cold again in the morning and then slowly warms up during use?
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    It could be either one although my bet is on the battery. Any repair shop can run a diagnostic on the charging system to determine where the problem is. Assuming this is the original battery, to me you're living on borrowed time with it so if I were in this situation(which I was last winter with our 2001), I'd go ahead and replace it.
  • triciag74triciag74 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Were you able to fix it yourself? I'm having the same problem with my 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan. The liftgate won't even lift or beep with the remote or interior button. I'm hoping I can fix this myself.

    Thanks,
    Tricia
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    try changing fuse #32 (40 amp) in the power control module which is located under the hood on the drivers side. It is the black plastic box near the fender. The top comes off with 2 plastic clips and the inside of the cover shows fuse locations.
  • mommylizardmommylizard Member Posts: 2
    I am the second owner of this 98 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport and I love the vehicle. However, just recently I seem to be experiencing some electrical problems. I have over 80,000 miles on it and the electrical "shorts" (for lack of better terms) comes and goes. I can drive the vehicle for weeks and then all of a sudden the ABS light comes on and my whole dash display goes blank, the gas gauge reads E, the spedometer is on zero and the temp gauge is at zero too. The locks won't even engage in the vehicle. And then all of a sudden (without me doing anything at all) I will hear a buzzing sound coming from the door locks and everything goes back to working order. Also, two of my lights on the panel that has your heating/cooling settings (the a/c light and the recycled air light) begin to blink everytime you start the vehicle. It stops after a while and as soon as you shut the car off, and back on, it starts all over again. As of this morning my Air Bag light is on and my horn won't work now. Has anyone else had these kind of problems and how do I go about fixing them myself? Is this just a problem with a relay or fuses? I would appreciate any responses at all.... :cry:
  • got2knowgot2know Member Posts: 4
    Help:
    I've been searching the forums for a while, and I'd like to get some opinions on the following problem:

    My 99 dodge caravan - 4cylinder had a problem over the weekend with the transmission slipping.

    We towed it into the dealer...the radiator had transmission fluid in it. Since then the dealer has told us the warranty company will replace the radiator, and pay for the transmission to get flushed out. My husband and I are also going to flush the engine, and since the a/c wasn't working they will also replace the evaporator.

    I would like to know, according to the dealer they feel flushing the transmission won't solve the problem....(they said that the torque converter is contaminated with anit-freeze).

    I'm sorry but I always thought that once the tranny would start acting up it would just be better to replace it not flush the system. Any input/suggestions would be appreciated. (our warranty is through interstate - the diamond package)

    Thanks for the help. :confuse:
  • shg1027shg1027 Member Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem. I changed the fuses and it continued to do it. Finally it quit working and didn't come back on. I had a diagnostic test run. It was my instrument cluster. I found one at a salvage yard in Illinois on line for $39.00. My van is a 1997 with 257,000 miles.
  • mommylizardmommylizard Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info...I will have someone check into that. I will also look online for a instrument cluster and see if that is something that I could replace myself. I take that you have not had any other problems since then?
  • thefoxman7thefoxman7 Member Posts: 1
    my tansmission is stuck in second gear don't know what is causing it. what do i do? does anyone have any ideas?

    thefoxman7
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I think the dealer may be trolling for business. The reason the radiator had transmission fluid in it is because the transmission cooler that is located inside of the radiator was leaking. It leaked into the radiator because the pressure in the transmission is higher than the radiator, the exception being when everything is shut down and cooled off.
    As far as why the transmission was slipping, my guess is that it was low on fluid due to the leak. For the short time you experienced the problem, I doubt this will cause a long term problem. However, by all means, have them pressure flush the transmission to replace all of the fluid. If it is still slips, then you have a legitimate claim with the warranty company.
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