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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    If the trans is stuck in 2 all the time it could be in limp mode. If it is, the fix is to replace one or both of the transmission sensors, a relatively inexpensive fix. Input speed sensor, output speed sensor.
  • gebalindgebalind Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Grand Caravan steering wheel/column has a rubbing/groaning/creaking noise when I turn the wheel, only in hot weather. I had this problem with a Ford Escort I owned. I park outside year-round, and this problem only happens when it's around 80 degrees and up. I read this could be a dry rubber bushing and that you can add graphite to help the problem. Does anyone have information on this or where/how to add the graphite? Thanks.
  • andrespandresp Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem, same minivan, same year, 290000 km, did any one found the solution? :confuse:

    please help. :)
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    The problem may not even be electrical since you have hit almost all of the possible items. The computer looks for minute changes in engine speed each time a cylinder fires. If the engine doesn't accelerate when a particular cylinder is supposed to fire, it sets the code for that cylinder. Another potential cause could be issues in the valve train such as a bad/burnt valve or a problem with the camshaft.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    from NAPA (please recheck before buying)
    Tranny input: MPE TSS200SB / ECH TSS200
    Tranny output: MPE TSS100SB / ECH TSS100

    P0500, P0720, P0700, limp mode codes
  • andrespandresp Member Posts: 4
    The 25 amp ENGINE fuse keeps blowing on my 96 Plymouth Voyager, between1 to 10 minutes after start. :confuse:
    I've taken the car to the Dodge dealership, and they can NOT find the Problem. :mad: This is no surprise by the way.
    Has anyone had this problem before? What is it? and how it was resolved? :)
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Mike, I had a similar problem with a '96 Intrepid. After my independent mechanic checked the things you've done, he tried cleaning the fuel injectors without correcting the code, a dealer diagnosed a leaking intake manifold gasket. This repair corrected the cylinder misfire code. Roy
  • denise5denise5 Member Posts: 9
    My 2002 grand caravan was getting stuck in second gear also. There were 2 sensors that needed replaced. $215+ to fix. They tell me now that the motor mount is broken and needs to be replaced. Total for all to be repaired...$507+. How does the motor mount break? The car is only 41/2 years old. I had the transmission fixed last year. The car dealership was going to charge me $1900. I called the Daimler Corp. and they got the cost down to $540. I hate this car........
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    hello,,,i have a 01 grand caravan......but i have water coming under the dash......im told the heater core in driver side.....but water drops on pass...any info would be great...... thanks,
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Assuming it is water and not water/antifreeze, be sure the drain off the AC evaporator is clear. When you run the AC, you should see water dripping onto the ground.
  • 1heinz71heinz7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 grand voyager since new, after an hour in heavy traffic the radio goes off, the wipers don't work, power windows don't work ,a/c climate doesn't work.
    If the switch is turned off every thing works fine. Went to the dealer and after five days said he couldn't find any thing wrong. any help would be very much appreciated.
  • ewcooperewcooper Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Grand Caravan that has developed a interminent problem. While driving steady at about 50-60 MPH the van starts to lose power almost like it was a carborated engine that went to full choke. RPM's drop to 800-1000, check engine light comes on at first steady and then starts to flash. Dealer has looked at the van three times to the tune of 2200.00 dollars so far with the problem arising again. They have replaced the following items: Plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter, both O2 sensors, cataylic convertor. Cleaned the entire fuel system from tank to injectors. All three times that they scanned the system it comes back as a multi-fire mis problem. Anybody have any ideas
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I would hope for $2200 that the dealer would now find and fix the problem for free. It sounds like they are nearly totally incompetent when it comes to troubleshooting and are from the school of "Gee, let's try this and see what happens".
    My guess would be the fuel pump but it could also be a grounding issue. They should be able to run a diagnostic on the fuel pump to see if it is delivering the pressure and volume it is supposed to.
  • smart_alecsmart_alec Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2001 T&C driven 75,000 miles with a 3.8L engine and 6 mos on a new battery. The starter would turn the engine normally but the engine would require several revolutions to start, the driver's window would refuse to close on occasion, and the right powered sliding door would or would not operate at times.
    I took a close look at the battery’s positive terminal connection. I removed the clamp and applied a piece of medium grit sandpaper inside the large terminal hole of the clamp to remove tarnish and get down to bare metal. Next, and this is the IMPORTANT part, I likewise sanded down to bare metal the side of the battery terminal clamp where the 2nd, smaller cable mates. Finally, I sanded to bare metal the side of the smaller cable’s grommet where it mates to the larger cable‘s newly sanded surface.
    After bolting the battery cable connection to a polished battery post, the starter turns the engine faster, the engine starts within a half revolution, the driver’s window zips up and down , and the power sliding door does its job normally.
    To finish the job, a layer of old fashioned grease (Vaseline works fine) was applied to the whole assembly to prevent air from getting to and tarnishing the newly cleaned connections. Do not use a spray-on lube as it will penetrate between the mated surfaces and act as an insulator.
  • llarosallarosa Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 with the same issue. I read another forum where someone said it has a TSB, (which I cannot find) and maybe the dealer should fix it. They have to extend the drain hose or somethign like that. Does anyone have any more information? Is this a difficult area to work on in the van? I mean can I do it?
    Lisa
  • cross404cross404 Member Posts: 1
    Trashman - Had the same problem with my '93 Voyager. Replaced the sway bar, links, bushings and motor mount. The problem seemed to be worse at first, but as the new equipment wore, the noise wasn't as bad. There is stilla clunking though not as bad, but the mechanic tells me that this is because these pieces are new and tight, it will continue to make noise. Hope this helps.
  • joonjoon Member Posts: 121
    You can buy a good used head unit (radio/cassette) for under $10 on e-bay if you're lucky. I did. Or, if you want to upgrade to a radio/cassette/cd player, the going rate was about $100 a few months ago.
  • rpaluckrpaluck Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar, if not same symptom. I have changed the battery, and ignition switch. Get yours fixed??
    I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport, 89K miles.
    Intermittent loss of accessories (wiper, radio, blower) ONLY
    when starting car.
    Always works in accessory (non-run) position.
    Problem goes away on its own in run position, and usually
    will stay on until next start cycle. I cannot find shock sensitive
    relay or loose harness in area of ignition column.
    No "dead spot" apparent in ignition key area.
  • jfenzajfenza Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a similar problem with my 2003 Dodge Caravan. I am requesting you to share with me any tips you received to fix the problem.

    Thanks,

    Jfenza
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Pretty much for any vehicle built with fuel injection since the late 1970s you should have a humming noise from the gas tank area. Why? Most (if not all) vehicles with fuel injection have an electric fuel pump either on or in the gas tank. Assuming the pump is in the fuel tank (as I believe is the case with DC MiniVans), you will definitely hear the humming noise, especially when the tank is nearing empty.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jack1949jack1949 Member Posts: 1
    I'm anew member and I was reading the post and saw yours, I have a 01 grand that was doing the same thing had it to the dealer 3 times. could not find anything wrong. Then they got a new mech. the 4th. time I was there he heard the problem. and put a new ignition sw. in and it sovled the problem.
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    Anyone know right off the top of their heads what size chrome lug nuts a 01 GC with steel wheels takes?
  • fantascpfantascp Member Posts: 175
    Hi:

    My Son is going on vacation- He has a 2000 Plymouth Voyager Van- Can you remove the cross-bars on the luggage rack so we can use a Sears-X-cargo luggage container instead?

    The 2 sliding cross bars are not far enough apart to allow the X-cargo to sit flush on the roof-

    Thanks for any help.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Take one lug nut off the wheel and use at the store you are buying the replacement lugs, to get the correct size. :shades:
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks, but actually I was buying for a vehicle that was not available. They are 12 X 1.5. :)
  • juanhjuanh Member Posts: 1
    have you got any solutions? becasue I have the same problem.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I did a search on this and didn't find any hits. Hmmm, could ours be the first? Not likely.

    So, over the last week Mrs. Shipo has been complaining that the left side power sliding door of our 2003 DGC ES has gotten very stiff when operated manually. I tried it and sure enough, it operates perfectly normal in power mode, however, opening and shutting it in manual mode is rather difficult taking a fair amount of arm strength to slide the door along the track. Having never taken the mechanism apart my first inclination is to suspect a problem with the "Star Wheel" disengaging from the motor. Does this device have some sort of a clutch or does the motor free-wheel rotate in manual mode?

    Any of y'all ever had this problem before?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • canniscannis Member Posts: 1
    Posting here for first time with other problems...but, have noticed recently that my 2001 t&c left power slider is also stiff when used manually...nothing like the old doors gone bad, but definitely made me wonder. No trouble with power locking (to complete close) and like Mrs. Shipo's, works fine in power mode...might help to know that hers is not isolated case...................MAIN TROUBLE: ...
    windshield replaced, next day outside thermometer reads all over the place, including way below zero...was hot day here ... trip to dealer for service, replaced sensor in front bumper ("was broken...hole in it") though I never banged the bumper...still not working when I drove it away, next trip and next trip to service and module replaced, then "burned out with short in wiring" so replaced again, then wiring "replaced" to bypass short...drove away, STILL not working...causes heat to come on, then air, then heat, depending on "outside temp" to deal with inside thermostat setting (i.e. 72F)...so, picked up Thursday eve, not working, driving it because I have to, and temp reading slightly less eratic (weather been cooler here), and tonight, missed family reunion due to coolant temp registering overheat, though engine not very warm, plenty of coolant...oh, passenger side power window has not worked properly for weeks...also, seat heaters replaced on recall notice few days before windshield replaced by local glass company, compliments of service center due to broken on their lot when I bought it (used). Extended warranty probably expired by now...70,000 miles, I think...though unsure if this electrical problem covered, anyway.
    Any ideas?
    C-
  • crupi325crupi325 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know where I can find the housing for the evaporator.
  • jdvoigtjdvoigt Member Posts: 4
    I had my evaporator replaced, and they mechanic had to pull the dash. It's basically behind the dash along the firewall...
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    There is a very good possibility that you have two evaporators in your van, one in the dash and one behind the right rear wheel.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • xdaax51xdaax51 Member Posts: 1
    I had yhe same problem in my 96 grand caravan my bet is if you turn off the a/c and defroster it will go away. if it does the compressor is ready to sieze up. My fuel pump also went. not an easy fix it is in the fuel tank. about 400.00 for fuel module and 225.00 labor at the dealer. good luck
  • aprendizaprendiz Member Posts: 17
    I got this code for Voyager 2000, any ideas for troubleshooting it?
    Thanks
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Look underneath back by the gas tank and you should see the charcoal cannister. Check it for loose or cracked hoses for starters. That's what the issue was with our 2001.
  • herbbeasleyherbbeasley Member Posts: 4
    shipo - I had a similiar problem with my 2005 Grand Caravan - luckily it was still under warranty so the dealer replaced the hinge motor.
  • herbbeasleyherbbeasley Member Posts: 4
    I've had two Dodge minvans and with both I heard a hummimg noise from the back of the vehicle. Never considered the fuel pump. Of course the dealer never heard of such noises. I always thought it was the brakes rubbing. I'll pay more attention to when the gas level is low. It would always happen when making left turns.
  • herbbeasleyherbbeasley Member Posts: 4
    My 2005 Grand Caravan SXT is experiencing a P0303 with only 36500 miles.
  • dcarbonedcarbone Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Town and Country that had a radiator fan short and blew one of the 40 amp fuses and the "service engine soon" light came on. After I fixed the fan motor, it works fine, but the error light is still on. I have tried to see if there is something else wrong by reading the codes using the ignition on-off sequence I heard mentioned in this forum, but I cannot get it to work. Is the procedure described in detail somewhere or does it just not work in my van?
  • dcarbonedcarbone Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Town and Country that had a radiator fan short, blew one of the 40 amp fuses and the "service engine soon" light came on. After I fixed the fan motor, it works fine, but the error light is still on. I have tried to see if there is something else wrong by reading the codes using the ignition on-off sequence I heard mentioned in this forum, but I cannot get it to do anything other than show me miles. Is the procedure described in detail somewhere or does it just not work in my van?
  • dilipcdilipc Member Posts: 1
    I have 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. I have similar problem. My van run OK most of the time, but every few days while I am driving, it will stall. It seems like gas doesn't reach engine. Most of the time it restarts immediately. On few occasions, it will start after 20-30 minutes. I took it to the dealer, but he could not figure out the problem as it is not easily reproducible. Any help will be appreciated.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Your issue with the "service engine sson" light is that for most error codes, a scan tool is needed to reset the code after the repair. Most parts stores will do this for you if you bought their part. Some codes will reset after many engine off-restart cycles. I do not know what years have the off-on-off-on-off-on code display capability.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    You might find a troubleshooting repair manual for your van to see several possibilities. They include fuel problems as well as electrical ones, the latter being more common. I would start by carrying a timing light so when the problem occurrs I could easily check for presence or absence of spark. Maybe a mechanic friend could loan you one. Roy
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    Not saying this is your problem but all of these new vehicles seem sensitive to loose/bad ground connections. Try cleaning and tightening the ground at the battery and at the engine. Even if it doesn't solve the problem, it's good PM.
  • denise5denise5 Member Posts: 9
    In June of 2005 I had to have my transmission taken apart and fixed. I had to take it in 3 times before it was fixed. The problem was I lost power and could not go faster than 20. With help from the Daimler Corp. it cost me $540. It would have been $1900. Well....Then July 2006 I was getting stuck in 2nd gear. They replaced input and output sensors. $230. They told me my engine mount was broken also. I had no money to fix that. 2 weeks later the same problem was happening. Back the car dealer...They said they fixed it and I had them fix the motor mount also. $340. Oh, and my air conditioner was leaking on the passenger side like forever...they fixed that too. About 4 days later the car is sticking in 1st and 2nd gear. Its in the shop now and they cannot find out whats wrong with it. I'm without a car again this weekend. What is going on? I've spent $1100 since 6/05 on a 2002 car. I think Daimler is going to get another phone call from me!!!!!
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    How many miles on the car?
  • denise5denise5 Member Posts: 9
    75,000 miles. Mostly highway miles not city. If that matters....?
  • got2knowgot2know Member Posts: 4
    There goes my transmission again !!

    We've had our 99 caravan worked on as in the previous post (msg 4120)...just picked it up on July 29,2006.

    Well the latest problem (August 25,2006) is that the van won't go past 1st gear it gets stuck. We're going to have it towed into the dealer again :cry: hopefully I'll hear good news....like they'll replace the tranny if you can even call that good news.

    Does anyone know if there's ever been a recall on the dodge caravan for transmission problems....I've noticed that alot of people have been having problems with them according to the forum.

    I'll keep every one updated. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
  • stedyekstedyek Member Posts: 8
    This looks like is should be easy enough, but I've one question : should I have the window all the way up and taped in place before swapping out the motor ? (It's on the passenger front.)
  • denise5denise5 Member Posts: 9
    The car dealership took my transmission apart 6/05 on 2002 grand caravan. Dodge has been using the same transmission for the last 15 years. Mine was making a whistling sound and I could not go faster than 20mph. They replaced a converter, seal ....They were going to charge me $1900. I called the Daimler Corp. and a representative got the cost down to $540. After that work I had to take it back 2 more times because trans. was leaking. They fixed that problem at no cost. My car is at the shop again for the 6th time because I get stuck in 2nd gear. They replaced the input and output sensors but it still does it and the engine light is on. I paid $230 for this work, but I'm not paying them another penny. I don't think it was the sensors so they can apply the $230 to whatever is wrong. I'm so mad!!!! Oh...when I took it in for getting stuck in 2nd they told me my engine mount was broken. They showed it to me. That cost $340 to fix. Plus my air condition was leaking on the passenger side. They fixed that. They said that is a common problem in these cars. arggghhhh I'm still waiting to hear from the dealer to see if they found out what is wrong with my car.
  • stedyekstedyek Member Posts: 8
    If it ever gets fixed then I would trade it in asap.
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