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Comments
Thanks in advance.
What I do know is that there are some aftermarket ceramic pads that don't dust anywhere near the level of the OEM pads that come on the Gen4 DC MiniVans. I've also heard second hand that DC makes a line of their own ceramic pads that are available through your dealer that are low dusters as well. You might want to ask your dealer about them.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm surprised, my previous Passat was a VERY heavy duster (until I changed to aftermarket pads that is).
Best Regards,
Shipo
The dusting is not a real big deal to me, just cosmetic. I might change to ceramic pads when the van needs a brake job but that will be hopefully quite a few years down the road.
I have also noticed they really have rearranged a lot of component placement under the hood. Air filter is on the passenger side, looks to be much more easily accessed, and in general there appears to be more free space under the hood than in the 1996. I might even be able to get to the back set of plugs myself when they need changing, long into the future. I sold the 1996 at 89K miles, so never had to change plugs on that one, as they were 100K platinum plugs.
Otherwise, I cannot complain at all about the initial quality. Only thing I found was a small paint flaw way down low on the rail below the passenger sliding door. Appeared to have paint over some excess sealant. But it is so low and out of the way I am not going to complain. Otherwise, paint and panel fitup is very good and I have found no other cosmetic or functional flaws, inside or out.
Amazing how silent the van is inside. I always thought our old 1996 Caravan was a very quiet vehicle, but the GC, even with those big Stow and Go "drum" storage recesses, is even quieter than the '96. Don't know how anyone could complain about the engine and drive train from a noise/vibration standpoint. Overall it seems very smooth and quiet. Downshifts on inclines are so smooth you basically only notice it when the tachometer jumps up. This "old tech" drive train is just about as refined as it can be made. Not bad for only a bit over $19.5K.
Back on track.....but I can't complain about the brake performance of the T&C.
If the new GC goes 50K or more without a brake service, I will be happy.
BTW . . . getting stuck in 2nd gear is normal operation when the transmission's internal diagnostics determines a problem. 2nd gear is called the "limp home" mode!
I know the noise....it's scary. But remember that the bark is worse than the bite.
Check your fluid and see if that is the problem.
C.B.
Frustrated and Bewildered! :confuse:
Darrin V.
Thank you in advance for any info!
Anyway, to wind the cables back on the wheel, put the window all the way up (this leaves the right side cable long and the left side cable short), connect the right side cable to the wheel and start winding it (as you are winding the cables, make sure you keep slight tension on them so the cables do not come off of the rollers on the tracks). Wind the right side as far as you can, with the cable sheaths inserted into their proper places, and then attach the left side cable end into the other hole in the wheel (the inner hole). If all the cables in the tracks are correctly seated, you will have just enough cable to wind the left cable around the wheel. This part is difficult as you need to get every bit of the slack out of the cables (including compressing the springs at the near ends) in order to be able to achieve a tight wind it on the wheel. Tilting the wheel a bit while winding that last inch or so helped get in on but it is difficult. Once you get it on, you need to turn the window motor slightly using the electric window switch to a position that lines up with the square slot in the back of the wheel. After that, add some lithium grease and pop the silver cover plate back on the the front of the regulator housing and put the door back together. One more thing, the rubber gromets into which the motor is screwed were rotted and could not be re-used. The auto store recommended using heater hose as a substitute and it worked great once i jammed it into the holes.
About a month ago I had the ac compressor replaced in the van. Would that have anything to do with it? Oh and a oil change.
Thanks
The van has 138,000 miles and we hope to get something new next summer.
Thanks for any insight.
Allyson
The squeek during engine acceleration could possibly be a result of problems in the compressor clutch/bearings, however, as this could indicate a slipping serpentine belt. There can be multiple sources of serpentine belt squeel, however. I would get a second opinion about this before going to the expense of replacing your compressor, if you really can live without AC.
Best Regards,
Shipo