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I guess I don't understand the concern about buying a low mileage used car. I buy daily rental cars. If there was an exposure to misuse, this would be it, however, I would like to think that most people rent a car for transportation and not to beat the crap out of it. You also get a warranty from the major companies, which doesn't mean much, as the manufacturers warranty is still in effect. I buy Japanese cars. I fail to see why there should be a problem in 20-30k miles no matter how they are driven. These cars should take it, and they probably get maintained better than some individuals do it. Some of my last ones were: A 90 Galant. Sold at 98k. In later years, we trusted it to provide reliable transportation when our daughter interned 370 miles away in Chicago. It never missed a beat. Only problem was a kinked heater control cable replaced under warranty. Next, we bought a 97 Camry that had not had a good life and had been in a front end fender bender. It had 13k on itWe paid $15k when it was 10 months old. It listed for $22k. We sold it last year with 64k on it for $8700. A first year car and never a problem. Actually, we bought 2. Our oldest daughter took the other one whick also had had minor front end damage. Still going strong at 60k and never a problem, and she does NOT take good care of it. We replaced the Camry with an 03 Avalon from Enterprise rentals.(pic's posted earlier after mods) It had 19k when we bought it and 33k now. No problems on this one either. The daughter who drove the Galant bought a rental 98 Diamante. It's now 04. She has replaced brakes. Other than that, no problems. BTW, my cars never go back to the dealership except for recalls or if something major would break. I have a pit in my garage and change my own oil and filter. Nothing special, just plain old Valvoline. Works great. I run Valvoline Durablend in my LS400, but just because the previous owner did.
I am not a big advocate of going to the dealerships with few exceptions with they guarantee the parts for life, like replacement exhaust, etc.
That being said, what specific fluids are being changed besides the oil??? And tire rotation??? In my driveway, that is about 1 hours worth of work on a nice fall day plus parts. You probably make $200/hour. Most of us don't. I would be very surprised if they included in that, an air filter, a cabin A/C filter, A/T fluid change, Power Steering fluid change, and radiator fluid change. If they do, then you got yourself a deal.
abfisch
Help Please!
The term "mix" really does not say enough about driving to define a problem. If the "mix" has a lot of city in it, 19.8 may be a good number. Hope this helps.....
I did try an aftermarket unit, in fact two of them, and there were vibrations from the roof area with both deflectors.
Anyone have any comments?
Order a factory unit from one of the Southern States?
Is the vibration the reason they are not available in the Northeast?
Thanks, J.Luther
I have mine set up so the doors lock when you shift from park into gear and unlock when you shift into park and turn off the key.
If you no longer have the owners manual, let me know how you want to set it up & I will check my owners manual and let you know.
J.Luther
J. Boord
Yesterday, while driving home my compass read SE while another Avalon going in the same direction compass read S. Continuing on the relatively straight road the compass read, S, then SW, then, S and then SE again. Everything thing else in the information display works fine including the temperature gauge, MPG and clock. Has anyone ever tested the accuracy of the compass? By the way I live and work in zone 12.
And on unrelated note. After test driving the new Acura RL I fell out of love with my Avalon. In my irrational exuberance I placed an order for a new RL with delivery expected in February. But after examining my finances I will have to renege on this deal. Is there a chance I can get my $500 deposit back?
Changing the mode.
The mode toggles through from 1 to mode 4. To change mode, do the following.
1. Shift the selector level into the "P" position and close all doors.
2. Push the power door lock switch on the rear side to unlock the doors.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
4. Within10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position, push and hold the power door lock switch to the front side for about 5 seconds.
5. open door warning sign will flash to indicate that the mode has been changed.
The flashing of the open door warning light indicates the mode which has been selected.
a. Flashing once changed to mode 1.
b. Flashing twice the function has been changed to mode 2.
3. Flashing three times the function has been changed to mode 3.
4. Flashing 4 times the function has been changed to mode 4.
Mode 1. All doors locked when shifting out of P.
Mode 2. Nothing functions.
Mode 3. All doors lock when shifting from P & all doors unlock when shift lever is moved to the "P" position.
Mode 4. All doors lock when shifting out of "P" & all doors unlock when you shift into "P" & key is moved to the ACC or Lock position.
Good luck.
J.Luther
r/jimA
Thanks
Double check, but I believe the subwoofer is a 8" JBL. I have looked for a replacement part, but think the only one is going through Toyota.
I believe your choices are to order it from the internet at a discount(Brandsport Toyota), through a dealership and pay full retail, or order from Crutchfield and put in a replacement.
Personally, I am not sure why yours is blown so soon, but you may live in an area of high sun exposure or moisture or play a large volume of bass. All will deteriorate the cone, not your fault, just time and weather.
Call Cruthfield and see if they have a 8" replacement, the most effecient one that takes the least (not the most power). Even the upgraded JBL unit does not match the power of the aftermarket, and you don't have that much power to push the subwoofer. I am confident most of the aftermarket subs are of better construct than OEM.
Let us know how it sounds.
abfisch
Now you have got my attention with the compass. I ordered the XL some time ago now, and one of the options my friend talked me out of was the auto dimming mirror with the compass. He said they never work right after awhile or when you switch zones and have to reprogram it. Although it is very useful, and much less conspicious and complicated , never mind less costly than the GPS. I stick a tacky but analog high quality compass on the bottom ledge, and it has worked correctly ever since. If I was very skilled, I inset it in the dash, carving out the plastic but I don't have that skill.
If you want to see a very nicely done compass, the Lexus 430 has a digital, big letter one right in the middle of the dash near all the other gauges, not in the rear view mirror. Very useful to me but not worth the extra 20K for the car.
Perhaps, the 2005 will take that technology for us middle age, since they seem to be taking some of the other tech stuff such as the air conditioned front seats.
abfisch
It sounds like it is the tarish like rustproofing, if they got into the doors under the panels. If you are a DIYer, then what I would do, is first, check the tracks that the window go up into, as mine (02) had dirt in it and stop the window from going up automatically. If that doesn't work, then take off the inner door panel and clean up what they sprayed. Unfortunately, unless they take off every door panel, OR do it at the factory, that type of rustproofing is usually sloopy and I cannot recommend it. They usually get some on your stereo speakers as well.
abfisch
My wife is starting a new job soon where she will be driving the XLS over a variety of roads and longer distances in the metro Boston area.
We need two new tires for the front. Our mechanic recommends we consider snow tires.
Does anyone have a recommendation for or thoughts about snow tires that fits our highly variable winter weather here - from dry and very cold to 32 degrees, day-old six inch snow fall turning to icy slush?
Thanks
Footie
They work very well during our various winter weather conditions.
Unless your wife is a first responder where she may be on the roads early in the morning, snow tires is over-kill. Furthermore, they are noisy detracting from the Avalon's smooth and quiet ride.
Blizzak tires are unparalled in snow and ice, but wear very rapidly on dry pavement. If you have the capability of swapping wheels in your own garage in response to weather forecasts, the life of the snow tires can be greatly expanded, perhaps to several seasons.
For "normal" snowy conditions we will, like BWIA, rely on our regular all-weather tires.
This is not the gospel, on IMO. I write to you from 30 minutes from the Thousand Island Bridge in very Upstate New York.
With wifes being a precious item, as your Avalon, it is difficult to decide. How long are you planning on keeping the car??? Your winters usually last about 5 months right??? Winter tires on in late November and off in early April, right???
If you are not going to keep the car say 4 years or more, than I would think that being 2 AS tires that are the exact same, would be the way to go. This is guesstimately on 20K a year.
You still will need two ALL season tires or summer tires after the winter, so it really depends on how long you are going to keep the vehicle.
If for a long time (we keep our vehicles over 10 years routinely), then the purchase of Winter tires would be a very good idea. They are snow and ice, not just snow, with differnet compounds. Choice one that sheds water well since much of the time in Boston it warms up.
I agree with all the posts above, with the exception of the recommendation about the Blizzak. Bridgestone hyped their name for a Winter tire before anyone else, but Consumer Reports did not choose their tire as one of their best, nor a "best buy". Actually, I find them over priced. From what I remember, the Goodyear Winter Snow High Performance (again, overpriced), and the Dunolp Winter High Performace were the best. Michelin and Bridgestone as well as Goodyear tend to be overpriced without giving superior performance in snow, water, ice, braking, handling, etc.
Refer to that article even though they have changed and updated their models this year.
abfisch
If that is what you read I am sorry. That is not what I meant. What I meant to say above was that this person above, is still going to need 2 more AS radials in the spring, regardless of whatever winter tire choices he has. I never recommended two snow tires nor do I have them on my vehicle.
I do think that consumer ratings are helpful. But...consumers, unless you are very wealthy, can NOT make side to side comparisons, on the same car (they were a BMW and a Honda Accord I believe, on similar roads and similar conditions. So, theretofore, this is more objectivity in a comparison of tires when CR or any other publication can duplicate this than subjective ratings on different cars, in different circustances, etc. You would be comparing apples to oranges as well as the excitement of a new winter tire on all 4 wheels.
Additionally, the above does not consider cost into the entire purchase, which makes one wonder if cost should be a consideration. For most of us, it is, or else you would be driving a LEXUS or the like. Tires, are a non durable good on a vehicle. Most have to be replaced several times during the course of ownership, especially those that keep their cars for decades or longer. Instead of emotionally making recommendations, I find it genuinely helpful to find out the entire situation with how long the owner planes to keep the vehicle, to evaluate further if the initial investment in four rims and winter tires would be cost prohibitive. I have them but that doesn't mean they are good for everyone. At 6 months winter each year, and at 15K average per year, you would have to keep the car for 5 years (37500 miles) if you can get that in order to at least exhaust the tires.
Other tire sites, especially the Canadian ones (1010 tires and tire trends) have a good selection of winter tires as well.
I'll write again with other winter tips when I have the opportunity.
Good luck to everyone during their winter drives.
abfisch
abfisch
In the worst conditions of loose snow, and later ice, the Blizzaks on my Avalon have been superb. In a quiet area of a supermarket parking lot, I was unable to induce a skid. Heavy rutted snow in my subdivision was no obstacle.
My Saab sits forlornly in the driveway. It can't move on its all season tires.
I have a 96 toyota avalon xls and I live in Minnesota and its been freezing lately and it has just warmed up to 30 some degrees so I decided to wash my car and now that I retry to start it the lights on the dash all light up and my doors all unlock and the trunk pops open. Then the engine never starts. Any idea about whats happening?
Factory-installed moon roof wind deflector on same '98 has never vibrated (here in Tennessee). Seems to have a rubber gasket on base.
Gas mileage does depend on traffic & driving - try a fuel injector cleaner like Chevron Techron or BG K44. It might help. I average 21 mpg but don't sit in commute traffic.
~alpha
And this gives me an opportunity to explain that we're now trying a new approach for moving vehicle discussions off the Futures board when that becomes appropriate. That discussion was moved from Future Vehicles and renamed, and this one is now renamed to Toyota Avalon pre-2005. We are hoping this will make for a smoother discussion transistion when a "Future" hits the streets.
We hope you will continue to participate in and enjoy both discussions!
It does not always pull. It mainly pulls when the road surface is very smooth. If there is any crown, it pulls even harder.
Anyone else have a problem like this?
Thanks
On another of my cars that also has no adjustments, I had to buy a camber adjusting kit (all it is a bolt that isn't round, making room for a little movement) so the front end could be adjusted.
I've also had one car that had rear toe uneven and that cause a pull (was within spec and still was after adjusting - just at the other end of the spec).
Suggest you make a few calls and find someone that knows how to make an adjustment to correct pull, even if the car is within spec.
Tire pull is a common problem, but crossing the front tires, if that is the problem, will either fix the problem or make the car pull in the opposite direction.
Is it the XL or XLS??? Steel wheels??? Have a problem with wheel runout when I purchased mine and did the same.
abfisch