Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

abfisch · March 2006

ohhh. I have almost the same car as you. I replaced my low and high beams bulbs with PIAA's Super White bulbs. The contrast is better but I cannot really tell you they throw out more light. It is good enough for daily night driving at regular speed limits. The procedure for aiming them is on the net. It involves having the car level 25 feet away froma vertical wall. You have to do some measurements with the height of the lights and mark the wall.

Do NOT put a high beam headlamp in a low beam socket. It is dangerous period and unlawful. If you want increased illumination, this is what to do for your model.

Make sure your low beams and high beams are adjusted correctly at 25 feet from a wall. Try a replacement high quality bulb to see if that make a difference to you (PIAA makes such a bulb although there are other good manufacturers). If that is still not enough, decide if you want more low beam illumination or high beam. Go to the PIAA website, and look at the PIAA model number 1500XT. They make a driving beam and a FOG beam. Both are very thin and wide. They fit perfectly under the 00-04 Avalon bumper recessed between the fascia. I attached mine under the bumper with machine metal screws. They are relayed to the low and high beams respectively, for FOG and Driving. You have two dummy switch plates in the interior under the steering wheeel, where you can attach two generic Toyota swithches. Wait, you may have one cause the 03 Avalon I believe came with VSC. Anyway, it can be done cause I have two sets attached to the underside of my bumper recessed just back of the fascia, so if something hits it, the lights don't bust. Depending on your driving, will depend on your needs. I think you would want the driving lights more than the FOGs if you cannot see clearly at night.

Note: There are aiming adjustments for these as well, specfically on the PIAA website. Follow them to the word. FOG lights and Driving lights need differenct aiming adjustments. Easy to do if you have the time and will.

Good luck

abfisch

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Thank you for the advise Fin.I suspected that they were unique to each car,I discussed the same thing with my brother.The thought came to me about hooking up another batter to the vehicle as if I am jump starting it.I want to put remote start on the car and I will have to disconnect the battery because I do not want work with the power on.Just a safety precaution incase something goes south.

founda98 · March 2006

I will try aiming the existing lights, then move to the PIAA or other brand high quality lowbeams if needed, but...

Can you describe where the aim adjusting screws are? I can't seem to locate them.

Thank you

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Thanks for the info,I think I will go with Tociko HP brand.I changed the sway bar bushing last September.My mechanic will do the struts for me.

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Thanks for the info.

abfisch · March 2006

Make sure you get new mounts too. They have a limited life span. 4 wheel alignent. Please let the forum know your impressions once you get all that work done. It should cost about $800 or so. I don't want to look like I said something that was not accurate. I am sure you will enjoy the big difference.

abfisch

abfisch · March 2006

Buddy:

There should be two of them on each lens but to tell you the truth, mine seem accurate so I never adjusted the ones on the car, only PIAA's once I put them on. I will have to look at the service manual this weekend and get you an answer. I know it is tight around there but there has to be a manual adjustment.

Let me find out.

abfisch

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Sure,I will let the forun know the results.That figure that you quote is within the ballpark.I told my brother that it is going to cost around 1,000,he nearly fell off the floor.The car was well kept by the original owner(female)and I am doing the same.The work would be done in late April.

abfisch · March 2006

It does seem like and is alot of money, but so is the whole car game. If the Avalon is in good shape, you will be very surprised to see the dramatic difference. Again, let us know your impressions.

abfisch

omaibraz5 · March 2006

1.Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2.From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3.From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4.Enter vehicle and close the door.
5.Start the car`s engine.
6.Turn engine off and remove key.
7.Place master key in the ignition lock.(DO NOT TURN).
8.Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9.Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10.Remove key.
11.Place new key in the ignition lock.(DO NOT TURN).
12.Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13.Wait (about 1 minute)for security light to stop blinking.
14.Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15.Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16.Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end.
17.Insert new key into ignition lock and start the car.

I did everthing there and was unable to programme the key.
Questions:# 2, should I lock all the doors? I locked all.
# 3, Should I UNLOCK all the doors? I unlocked the driver`s side.
# 4, Should I have locked the door?
I did everything else as stated in the above mentioned directions.Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong? I do have one master key.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Something weird happened at 8 PM.I started my car and looked at the guages and noticed that the fuel guage was showing full, when it should be showing a little more than a quarter tank.As the engine warmed up the fuel needle was dropping to where it should be.After driving for about two minutes,I noticed that the needle is where it should be.Has anyone ever experienced that?.I normally travel to upstate NY (Rhinebeck)and would hate to have car problems in either direction.

abfisch · March 2006

Fuel Gauge Guy:

Yes, this happened to me once. I think the float got stuck that lets the sending unit now how much is in the tank. It never did it again. I think I was filling the tank very fast. I would not worry too much about it unless it does this on a continual basis. See what happens if you fill it a little less fast on the next couple of tankfuls.

abfisch

abfisch · March 2006

Founda98:

It was bugging me to no end where the headlamp adjustment screws on, so this weekend in the garage I found them, at least on my 02 and thought I would give you the coustesy to tell you where they are. I am not a car expert but have a baseline knowledge more than most.

The 98 might be a little different so take this with some latitude. On VOL#2, or the service manual(repair)(NOT OWNERS!!) Section BE-23(Body Electrical) it clearly outlines in a posterior and lateral view the headlights. There is one screw for vertical adjustment between the low and high beam and one screw for horizontal adjustment lower between the low beam and the incoorpated turn signal. I cross referenced the page to read see Haynes Manual p12-14, so it must be in there too. There is also a thorough explanation on the following page on how to. They aim from 9.84 ft away. Note you always aim the low beams, not the high beams in this case.

If you are opening the hood of the car, it is almost impossible to see the two screws since the lip of the frame obscures the back of the light. I hand to bend all the way around and put a light there and feel it partly with my hand. If you go on the side of the fender, you line of sight is better so you can get a better ideal of where they are on the back plastic part of the headlight assembly.

If you do not have any service manuals for the vehicle, go to the service department near you and ask them to print out on the computer an exploded view of the part to appreciate it better. They are there. They have to be. They do make mention ( to my surprise) that it has to be on a level surface, tire need to be inflated correctly, and the driver in the driver's seat with the TANK FULL. Get a good friend or son or daughter to help you out. No one will do it as good as you.

Hope this helps.

abfisch

founda98 · March 2006

abfisch - thank you so much for providng this info. I was able to locate the one between the hi & low beams and since this is the one I need to adjust, I will now be able to do so. By the wayh, I used to have the 98 XLS, but traded recently for the 03 XL. Thank you, founda98 (03).

rob774 · March 2006

Okay, i just recently purchased a 01 Avalon XLS and it didn't have a keyless entry remote or owners manual. How much am i going to have to pay for another remote and how do i set the memory seats. Thanks.

abfisch · March 2006

Not a problem. I was curious myself. The other screw on my 02 has a plastic cap, clear, on it, that you have to remove. Probably so the head of the screw does not get too rusty, but that one is nearer the fender. Hope it works out for you. Remember to fill the tank with gas before you aim the lights. If that does not suffice, then we can go from there. The auxillary lighting the PIAA 1500's provide and a good supplement to nasty weather or very dark conditions but take a little fussing.

abfisch

day9 · March 2006

May I suggest ebay?

rob774 · March 2006

Actually, i was able to find a remote on Ebay. thanks, now i gotta find a manual.

kpraveen · March 2006

I love my 95 Avalon XL, it is a used car and has come with AM/FM Radio with Cassette Player.
Guys can you kindly let me know where can i find used CD player if i want to upgrade my radio cassette player with CD player. I checked with Dealers they said it cost me 300 just for cd player and labor charges are extra.
Please guide me where can i buy CD player and how can i install it on my own.

Thank you very much in Advance.

day9 · March 2006

I recently bought a used 2000 xls. I like it alot but have some steering problem.
1. At highway speed, it pulls slightly to the left.
2. At lower speed, the steering wobbles at a direction close to straight ahead (or maybe the neutral position). It is not really violent, more like a low frequency wobble. It will disappear if i steer slightly to the left or right. Could this be the so-called torque steer or something else?
Thanks.

fin · March 2006

It is "something else" as torque steer occurs on hard acceleration, not normal highway crusing.

Basic Ideas: Start by making sure the tires match and are properly balanced. Check to see if they are round. Check the air pressure. Spin the tires by hand and see if the front brake pads still pinch the rotor when fully released (they should not). Get an alignment.

When you get to this point, having done all the above, you will have either fixed the problem or know what else needs to be done. Might be the steering needs some new parts. The alignment shop can tell you. Several possibilities here. Hope this helps, others will have additional ideas....

deepan · March 2006

why dont you just buy a unit (maybe about 100-150$ ) and install it. for that price you can also get MP3 capabilities. Most of the decks are plug and play.

since you have the XL you probably dont have a amp in there. i have a 96 xls and the installation took a while as they had to bypass the amp or something.

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Thanks,the guage did not act up again.

omaibraz5 · March 2006

Driver`s side low beam socket burnt out a few months ago and I changed it and the same thing has happened again.I cannot remember if it is the negative or positive is burning out.It was not lighting last night so I checked it and found that it it was black and charred.I cleaned the socket and it lighted,I think that it is only time before there is a fire.This started to happen eights months after I got the car.

QUESTION:Can I use H I D bulb without have to change wires?

dave_b · March 2006

Anyone (abfisch maybe??) have any experience replacing the fuel filter?
Interested in:
1) Where is it located
2) Approximate cost I should expect to pay
3) At what mileage should I have this done
Thanks!

deepan · March 2006

I have a 96 XLS and the headlight washer on the drivers side doesnt work. The other side works. I can see windshield washer dripping from the drivers side which means it might be getting to the nozzle bit not out.

Anyidea how i can remove this part and take a look. doesnt appear to have any screws looking from top.

abfisch · March 2006

Yes......Very painful. It is located I believe on the passenger side of the engine bay. It is under pressure. You have to access it from below I believe and you will get gas in alot of places you don't want. Nevertheless, if you have the time, it is in the service manual, although I don't remember it being in the scheduled maintenace algorithm. Ofcourse, Toyota saws you don't have to ever do it. Then, why is there a filter in the first place???

I did not want to do this. I bought 6 filters, at a discount and have them replace at 60K or so, whenever I have to have something else done. I believe you are suppose to disconnect the negative terminal to the battery, but did you think they did that at the local Toyota dealership here. No.....

abfisch

kpraveen · March 2006

Thanks for your reply. What is this amp. Is it easy to install CD player if there is no amp in my car. how about if i buy some thing cd to cassette converter, will it be less expenssive than single cd player unit.

fin · March 2006

Here is some edited copy from a parts house website. I was looking for something else and found it. *abfisch* has it right:

On cars with fuel injection, most manufacturers only recommend replacing the filter after the first 100,000 mile. However, most Toyota service professionals believe its best to replace the fuel filter every two years or 24,000 miles. A contaminated Toyota filter will put undue pressure on the electric fuel pump, eventually wearing out the pump prematurely, or worse let contaminates get to the Toyota fuel injectors. Spending a few extra dollars every few years will save you hundreds in future repair costs. Toyota fuel filter replacement is fairly easy and is something you can do yourself! But be careful as on fuel-injected cars, the fuel system remains under pressure even with the car off!

To me it sounds a little more difficult then this paragraph implies. Good luck......

deepan · March 2006

the amp is something that amplifies your signal. Apparently some Avalons have a Woofer as well and have an amp behind the audio unit.

Best thing in your case would be to pull out the radio and insert a newer CD unit (unless youi listen to tapes )

omaibraz5 · March 2006

To all the people who are not happy with their Toyota,please do not beat up on your selves for buying the brand.Honda is having problems too,as a matter of fact,they are horror stories.One guy has a 2003 Accord EX V6 which is on tranny #3,Odessy is having horror stories too.The reason we are seeing so many complaints here is because this is supposed to be a TOYOTA FORUM.A few wayward post do get past the keeper.You have all right to be upset if a screw is out of joint on your brand new or new used car, because once you put your "John Hancock" on the dotted lines, you are stuck.It is not like a stero set that you can take back to the shop if you do not like the sound it produces.I am just a happy camper who is putting in his two cents.You can check out some of the horror stories on @utoFan.com

Thanks for reading.

abfisch · March 2006

Which brings up a very good point. It is not the fact that these companies a putting in defective parts. That's is not really the main issue. The main issue, IMO, is the way they handle the complaint afterwards and there is lies a big difference. This is both at the local level and the corporate level.

Compare Toyota and Honda, both reputable brands that have enlarged to the Subaru site. Or perhaps a Korean brand. Every model has there share of defective parts or engineering, but the way it is handled makes all the difference in customer loyalty and happiness.

Although I enjoy my Avalon 02 with 80K, and plan to keep it to 250K, I would have a very hard time buying another Toyota if there was a comparbly equipped and serviceable vehicle for the same price.

abfisch

alan_s · March 2006

I agree wholeheartedly. Toyota fight all the way when it comes to fixing a problem, even if it is a known issue. If Toyota just fixed the problem instead of treating their customers like the enemy, we would all be much more loyal customers.
This is a major reason why I have started our move away from Toyota, by replacing our Sienna with a Honda Pilot. So far the Honda service and attitude we have experienced is way, way better than Toyota's.
When I replace my Avalon I won't be buying another Toyota.
They have lost me after 25 years as a loyal customer, and frankly they don't give a !@#$%^.

abfisch · March 2006

Wow, I feel the same way. Very interesting. Bought a slightly used BMW, and besides my tickering for maintenance, I have the priviledge (shouldn't be) of a very very well trained light wheel vehicle mechanic who is with me in the Army. So. no bull.

Probably only one more vehicle for the family in my lifetime. Perhaps by that time, fuel will be differently priced or available. But Not only is Toyota losing a one time customer, but to lose you after 25 years, says alot about how corporations change.

Appreciate your response.

abfisch

jimhinkson · April 2006

I love the car, but I think it's time to take up some slack in the parking brake cables. I cannot find information about this! Is it a secret? I may have to pay 85 bucks for the official Toyota service manual. This not rocket science. Must I go to the dealership? Heaven forbid! That's 100 bucks an hour! Thanks. Jim Hinkson.

PS I know what to do under a car. I have the floor jack, jack stands, and the tools. I just don't enjoy doing that stuff any more unless I have to. I'm also a cheap skate

omaibraz5 · April 2006

I recently changed my brakes and notice someting odd.On the inner back brackes,I notice that the pads were half worn and yet they destroyed the rotors.The piston on the driver`s side caliper gave me hell to push back.I had to do it about three times before it was ok,the passenger side was a breeze.I suspected the calipers are sticking.I am having nightmares(about the price) about having to change all four calipers.Am I right about the diagnosis?.

abfisch · April 2006

Yes. You are right. If the calipers and slide bolts are cleaned and greased, you probably will not need new calipers although it sounds like you need new pads and rotors. You gotta get all the rust off the moving parts for brakes. That is the only way they will work correctly.

abfisch

kpraveen · April 2006

Hi Guys,

Is Fuel injector is really helpful as it is advertised by the sellers. My car has 148k, can you please suggest me
do i have to really mix fuel injector when I fill up the gas if have not done it before.

Thank you.

fin · April 2006

kpraveen: Most fuel injector cleaner is essentially a highly volatile (explosive vapors) petroleum product. It burns extremely hot, so YES, mix it with gasoline in the tank per the directions. It will remove some, possibly not all, of the junk that clogs fuel injectors.

There is no real substitute for removing the injectors and fuel lines and doing a professional cleaning at 148k miles. But if you have minor problems it can certainly help. Some people add the stuff regularly to the fuel anyway. But don't do it too often. Hope this helps...

abfisch · April 2006

No. Don't do that. PURE HID bulbs needs ballasts as they are 35W. They are not applicable for halogen lights. You need to have the care serviced by a competent electrical technician.

abfisch

omaibraz5 · April 2006

Thanks abfisch.I did get new rotors and new pads and now the brakes are squealing like a stuck pig.Whenever I visit my brother,he can tell it is me without seeing me.

omaibraz5 · April 2006

Thanks for your suggestions.I went to a car chatroom and explain the problem.Someone told me the light has a grounding problem,I located the ground but I have to disconnect the battery in order to do a ground test.I am waiting for the temperature to be in the 70s.I have to remove the battery and part of the air filter housing.Oh,the main reason I cannot do it now is because I do not have the code to reset the radio.I have to call a company on the web in order to get it.Yes,it will cost me,$35 bucks.

QUESTION:Can I make a ground from the negative wire that is feeding the bulb? An auto electrician is going to charge me an arm,a leg and he will try to take my head too.

kpraveen · April 2006

Fin,

Thank you very much for your reply. It is really helpful to me.

rob774 · April 2006

Okay, i want an extra key for my Avalon. Only thing is i assume Toyota would make me take out a small house loan for it. So i saw a un-cut key with a chip inside already. This seems to be a reputable seller, he had great reviews, so my question is, what's the chance of this not working. All i would have to do is get it cut to my original key. Opinions?

omaibraz5 · April 2006

Once the key is cut to the original it should work,remember you also have to programme the new key.I bought two uncut keys for a total of $77 and had them cut at Home Depot.I programme the last one this morning and they are both starting the car.Programming instructions
came with the keys.You will have to have a master key to do
the programming yourself.Here is what you do to find out if you have a master key:Insert your existing key into the ignition,if the little red light on your dashboard goes off immideatly you have a master key.If it goes off after a few seconds,your key is not a master key and you will not be able to programme it yourself.The same guy that you mentioned will have to programme it for you or you will have to go the the dealer.What year is your Avalon? Mine is 98 XLS

rob774 · April 2006

Mine is a 2001. Thanks for your advise thus far.

abfisch · April 2006

They should not squeal if done correctly. Did you camfer the front edge of the pad??? Anti squeal lub. on the back of the pads??? Shouldn't do that. Did you bed in the pads???

abfisch

kpraveen · April 2006

Hi Guys,

Please advice/suggest me, I bought a used AVALON 95 with 150K miles. I have a question that Can I drive this car on a long drive like 700miles in a day non-stop, in this summer. Kindly advice me. Please suggest what do i need to inspect before i go for a long drive and what should i need to take care of.

Thanks to all of you.

omaibraz5 · April 2006

I do not think that the reset code for the radio is unique to individual radio but a group of radios.Here is why:I was going through the motion of buying the code, they did not ask for Vehicle Identification Number.All they ask for is,vehicle make,model,year and radio model number.The radio model number is very important.My radio model number is AD6801 it means that all the radios with that number can be reset using the same code.That is my reasoning,does anyone agree with me?

fin · April 2006

First... If you go 700 miles non-stop... you will average about 40 mpg. Tell the forum immediately how you did it. This will be a first for any Avalon.

Second... If it doesn't leak anything, overheat or otherwise fail in a 1 hour test drive on the local interstate in your area, go for it. Not anybody's first choice maybe, with all those miles, but these cars can go 200k or more if you take care of them. My '99 XL was perfect at 92k, ran like new. Check all fluids and hoses after a test drive. Then go if it looks ok. Don't forget the tires, check air pressure and tread depth for safety. Note: Your question is in the wrong forum. The HOST will move it.

Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

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