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2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
I'm thinking about buying an Avalon during the years the sludge issue occured (2000 - 2003). I was wondering how much of a chore it is to pull the valve covers? I won't buy one unless I can see what's under them. But this may be asking too much of the seller, especially if it's a private individual. Anyone ever done this before?
PAU03
I know that everyone seem's to change their timing belt at about 100;000 miles
Has anyone pushed this a long way or ever PERSONALLY have a belt breack ????????
Their used too be a cover on some where you could check wear without having to take it almost apart to check it even ??
Also please: Is there any reason that the heavier LamuiATED WINDSHIELD IN THE LIMITEDS would not fit in a XLS ??????
Thank's for your time
"What is the difference between the
Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components?
Answer: Both are our Energy's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane formulations. Energy has impregnated selected black polyurethane components with graphite–to add a lubrication property. Additionally, both Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components are engineered differently than OEM rubber components–to be free a floating and non-binding design. This allows for the additional durometer (firmness) of the components, which adds to the performance improvement of the vehicle overall."
http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/comquest.html">link title
One benefit, however, is that the brake pulsation has gone. Obviously the bearing has been faulty for a year or so, because that's how long I have had the pulsation.
Can someone advise which fuse covers the clock?
Can someone offer suggestions to the clock issue if all fuses are good?
Does someone have the manual that they can email to me?
Thanks in advance
I used the black ones. Every now and again, they seem to need a relub. Too bad the brackets don't have a grease fittings, sway bars I am talking about. Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out. It really does improve the vehicles handling although you have to be careful as how much vibration you want to let into the cabin.
abfisch
1. The plastic latch on the center console is worn/damaged and will not stay latched. The plastic latch appears to be easy to replace, but dealer does not stock the $2 part and wants to sell the $80 console. Any suggestions?
2. The electronic mirror's dimming feature does not appear to be working. Any suggestions?
Also I changed my spark plugs at 124 k miles - book says 120k. They were as clean as a whistle and probably would have worked for a lot longer. However I was glad I did it as two were a little testy getting loose. Wouldn't you know - they were in the back and leaverage was the problem.
Does anyone know how to do this? There is a cover plate on the reverse side of the buttons but prying with a screw driver did not release it. I’m afraid to pry too hard. It might break.
BTW, my 2000 avalon is on the org. struts w/ approx 136000 (purchase car w/85000 on it) - I'm ready to drive instead of navigating the car down the road
any other tips before I purchase struts would be must appreciated.
ps. also plan to replace the front/rear bushings (rubber vice poly - wifes car)
thanks!
Today I took my wifes car. It has been awhile since installing struts and bushings. I went down a hill where the road narrowed to cross an old small bridge, then up the hill again. The car hardly flinched, much as a BMW would take it. Very controlled. And, as I was coming across a 4 lane street where the slabs of concrete had shifted due to truck traffic, it was also well controlled. But, I noticed the headlights on the car a ways behind me were really affected, bobbing loosely up and down. I would have guessed it was a large Buick, so I slowed up to see. Unfortunately, it turned off, but I could see that it was a mid sized car. Now, we drive in a more sporting manner at times, but most of the tome it's just normal driving and trips to Arizona fully loaded, where the control is really appreciated. After break in, I would say that this set up is just about ideal.. You can corner as hard as you like, and it stays flat and controlled. I love it, and my wife feels it is ideal too.
Well, I replaced the shocks at about the same time as the bushongs. Way back when they first downsized the Monte Carlo, I test drove one and didn't like what they did with the suspension. Same for the Olds. It just doesn't seem right. Anyway, the shocks were shot, so I replaced them with cheap $9.99 HD gas shocks. Small shaft, but they seem to work OK. Maybe not so good on extended hard use, and maybe won't last too long, but I won't drive it much, so they serve the purpose. Front sway bushings and shocks firmed it right up, but I still notice the character of the design, which is to be expected. Now, she just had cheap tires on standard wheels, which may be part of the problem. Also, this car has no rear sway bar, so I will be looking for 442 bars for front and rear. I expect this to make the big difference. Time will tell.
Retail of course. I just found the bearing assembly online for $138. A friend takes his cars to a local salvage yard where the mechanic is a stock car racer. Shop rate labor is much less. We also use a local family shop that specializes in Audi's. They are also lower than dealers.
I also had my wheels and tires switched over for winter at Sams Club. No charge. I noticed some outside wear on one when I threw it in the car and asked their opinion. They called me into the shop and showed me tread wear. "No, overall tread wear is acceptable. I would get one more trip out of them. Should have another 10k in them". In both cases, they could have made a sale or money, yet did what was best for me, the customer. The first time I met either of them. Now, I will say that a good salesman or service guy can read a customer. Go there without a clue about things and your answers may be quite different.
thanks
12 hours after I picked it up, I am going 60 on a highway...step on gas...no reaction...I have the pedal to the floor....no acceleration.(and no, I wasn't in neutral) Narrowly miss getting hit by a truck, pull to the side, and get the car towed back to dealership. (Nothing anything like this at alll has ever happened).
Dealer looks over the car, road tests, leaves me a message saying there is NOTHING WRONG with my car. It's fine.
How is that possible? Does anyone have any advice as to what it could be and/or what I should do?
Thanks so much. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
T
Any other warnings,any lights,how is fuel level?
Take car to an Autozone or similar. They usually charge nothing for diagnostic check.
There should be a "record" stored in computer.OR: "fault" has corrected itself and there will be no memory stored.
How far have you driven since P/U from dealer?
Let us know.
"whilst"
Thanks so much for responding! OK, no warning lights came on...I literally went from going 60MPH seemingly fine to not being able to accelerate at all.
I picked up the car at the dealer last night and drove the 2 miles home. This morning, I had driven about 10 miles or so when this happened. I had a half a tank of gas.
The car is back at the dealership now (towed there). Its funny because they said nothing was wrong with the car but they did replace the fuel filter today, which they had not done yesterday. Could they have taken it out and not put a new one back in? (I'm not trying to blame these guys, but it seems more than a little strange that my car has never had any problem like this and then this happens 12 miles after I pick it up!!)
Keep the info coming and thank you soo much!
Is car back from dealer?
Running OK?
I doubt that they would put back old filter.
Let us know.
Jeff.
Jeff.
Hat's off to Toyota on an absolutely great car! :shades:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0e8ddb/130
You could also search on abfisch and 55396.
Nice posting. I have similar and have contributed to this site for awhile. Have an 02 Avalon XL with 96K on it. Have had CV/axle problems in the beginning with the car but now OK. Automatic car washes are hurtful to the brakes up here in North County.
To answer your questions about suspension, I have posted these before but will again for you. I would not recommend putting in OEM Toyota struts/dampers. They are inferior in quality and performance to a twin tube low pressure gas shock. Two manufacturers, both TokicoHP and KYB GR2's are both very good. You will thoroughly enjoy the difference. For a high mileage car, the bushing/bump stops for the top of the shock housing and rubber where the spring sit s on the strut should be replaced at the same time too.
Have them check on the CAB(control arm bushings) as well as the sway bar bushings. They are made of rubber and they dry rot through the years. They do make PU(polyurethane) bushings which are essentially thick plastic instead of rubber(Energy Suspension). I like them better, but they are NOT for everyone. There performance is superior, which makes the Avalon's turn in much sharper without an body lean b/w the shocks and the bushings. And they do not deteriorate at all like rubber so no need to replace again. However......there are disadvantages. They are higher maintainance, and tend to creak if not lubed once a year, and they do affect ride qualtiy negatively. To describe it to everyone, your XLS requires 32 PSI in the tires. Put 37 PSI in all your tires and ride around in it for awhile. That is how it will ride(quality) with PU bushings. So if the roads are bad, so will be the ride. If it is mainly highway, it will be much more controlling. Start with the struts and their associated hardware.
Otherwise a very good car. The tranny fluid and the PS fluid(same fluid) should be addressed if not done so already.
Hope this helps.
abfisch
With proper care the car could go 200k, maybe more. Do you know anything about the car's history? Got a Carfax report? Priced right, based on condition? Think about it... you might have a winner! Hope this helps.
For the record the car is a 2000XLS with 60,900 miles on it and I've had only one problem so far, the replacement of a fuel sensor. I rarely drive on the freeway as most of my driving is confined to the traditional suburban to city driving. Great car although my brakes seem pulsate especially on wet surfaces.
Question to Avalon owners, how is your Avy holding up in terms of handling and repair costs? And are you getting anywhere near the mileage I reported above.
Roland
The pulsation on braking is a very well-known feature of our previous-model Avalons. The disks warp easily, aided by regular overtorquing of the lug bolts by gorillas at the tire shop or dealership. Hand tightening the bolts will somewhat reduce the problem, but ultimately the only solution is to replace the (front) disks and pads. I did this with Brembo disks and Toyota Racing Development pads at 60K, and the braking is now completely normal (and quite sporty).
I don't remember the source but I recall reading that resurfacing the Avalon disks was a waste of time, since the reduced thickness simply contributed to further warping. There is a significant labor charge anyway. The concept of using new better-quality disks seemed appropriate to me.
I have to agree with you on that. On Tuesday the dealer replaced the rotors and brake pads on all 4 wheels of my 2000XLS at a draw dropping price of $1,018 (after a 10% discount). This is by far the most expensive (or should I say taken to the cleaners) brake job I've experienced in my life.
The mechanic said there was significant pulsating on both front and rear wheels but the rotors were too warped to machine down. Seeing how slow it was at the dealership in these hard economic times the service manager was obviously trying to sell up to pay for those idle mechanics. Nonetheless, the car is driving fine again and it almost feels as new. Now only if I could stop them from pressuring me into doing a 60K mile service.
I paid $85 for two Brembo front disks; I can't remember the cost of the pads because I have had them for over two years, but let's say $50. Thus the aftermarket cost of parts for front and back approximates to $270. The difference between that figure and your $1018 is solely due to labor and the high cost of Toyota parts.
My 2003 Avalon is long out of warranty, so the need to patronize these high-price dealers has long since gone. Where possible I buy aftermarket parts and negotiate the labor charge with the dealer's service department. They used to be reluctant to do work in this manner but, as you say, a dollar is a dollar these days, and they are much more willing to go after your business. I could easily have avoided the heft wheel bearing charge, but I had not been aware of the problem prior to taking my noisy car to the dealer.
I can remember wheel bearings packed for comparatively nothing! In fact, it was a comparatively simple do it yourself effort.
It is very easy to fix and just matter of $99+ tax (on $99).
Let me tell you exactly what needs to be done, based on the code P0420 you need O2 sensor before catalyst. I bought BOSCH made O2 sensor in autozone for $99.99 (part# 13355) link: http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,07029/initialAction,partProductDetail/initia- - lpartType,00117/initialR,APP230038/shopping/selectZip.htm
It is very easy to replace before cat than after cat, you can take help of autozone guys to show where it exactly located or you can search online, there are several websites guides how to replace it. Sorry, i am in a rush but thought to let you know so that you can easily fix over this weekend.
Again, this part is like plug n play installation. There are other universal models available where they price 30 to 40 dollars cheaper than bosch made but installation takes more time than Bosch. If price is not a constraint you can buy Bosch and install it yourself. You have to run your car for 2 miles before you change it but dont over run because it will over heat the part and difficult to replace it as it becomes too hot.
It will fail DMV inspection if you dont fix it. Also, DONOT take it to DMV inspection until you drive the car for 1000 miles and put fuel injector in fuel tank.
Hope this helps you and good luck.
Before doing anything: fill up and drive at the legal limit+ for at least an hour. Load the car with people and turn on the AC. Fill the trunk. Find some hills. Make the engine work. You may be able to burn off buildup on the Cat filter surfaces and fix the problem. Try this several times. You don't drive a lot (8 years, 85k) so the converter may be able to fix itself if you get it hot enough for a while.
If this fails and the light is still on, there are various electronic tests that compare voltage between the sensors. These tests are helpful but you must start with a cold engine and take some time...money wasted if the converter is in fact bad. Both sensors probably cost less than the test if the test is done properly.
Do not use a salvage converter. You have no idea as to the condition and cannot measure it prior to installation. You can't pass inspection with this code showing but the car will drive ok. There may be no good solution except to replace the Cat converter. Hope this helps....
Infact I have a few more inputs to add since I have been facing this problem for almost a month now. The light had turned itself off after I changed the gas station and started filling Exxon instead of Shell..just to return back "on" during a long trip > 120 miles last week....so I am really confused .what exactly is the problem...
fin - is there a simpler test like an emissions test or something done which I can get done for much lesser cost which can definitely tell me whether the CAT is indeed performing sub optimally or no.
praveen - do you also have a 2000 avalon and did the problem get solved just by changing the O2 sensor ? coz my mechanic tells me that if the O2 sensors are faulty then I should be getting some other code besdies P0420
Eargerly awaiting your replies
Aditya
I also experienced the same way that the check engine was going on & off for few weeks but after a month time it was on for long time. I did not fix it the check engine for almost 6 months but when inspection time was near i had to fix it.
If this were my car and it was doing OK otherwise, a good car, and I intended to keep it for some time, (and driving for an hour at freeway speeds with injector cleaner has not solved the problem) here is list of things you might consider:
1. Get the 90k service. Clean the injectors off the car. Replace the plugs. Then drive the car. If the CEL is still on and will not go off on the highway, replace the O2 sensors.
2. If none of this gets the light to stay off and no other codes appear, replace the Cat converter.
Some people replace the sensors at 100k anyway. They heat to the same temp as the converter and won't last forever. But they are much cheaper to replace if they go bad and you don't really need a converter. Good luck!