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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

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Comments

  • tjc78tjc78 Member Posts: 15,918
    The 2GR engine in '05+ Avalons doesn't have a belt, they went to a chain.

    2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve

  • pau03pau03 Member Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I'm thinking about buying an Avalon during the years the sludge issue occured (2000 - 2003). I was wondering how much of a chore it is to pull the valve covers? I won't buy one unless I can see what's under them. But this may be asking too much of the seller, especially if it's a private individual. Anyone ever done this before?

    PAU03
  • burlburl Member Posts: 40
    This Question got lost a while back

    I know that everyone seem's to change their timing belt at about 100;000 miles

    Has anyone pushed this a long way or ever PERSONALLY have a belt breack ????????

    Their used too be a cover on some where you could check wear without having to take it almost apart to check it even ??

    Also please: Is there any reason that the heavier LamuiATED WINDSHIELD IN THE LIMITEDS would not fit in a XLS ??????
    Thank's for your time
  • jimmy2xjimmy2x Member Posts: 124
    Depending on whether the belt is interference or non-interference (I am not sure which it is), you could virtually ruin your engine. Certainly not a chance worth taking IMO.
  • cking35cking35 Member Posts: 3
    i haven't removed my valve covers yet but plan on doing it before the 8 year warranty is up. I have a 2000 Avalon, 68000 miles.
  • cking35cking35 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Avalon, the manual states the timing belt should be changed at 90000 miles or 72 months. I decided to change the timing belt my-self, could not get the crankcase pulley bolt loose (159 ft lb torque), I purchased the special tools required. The old belt looked good, no visible cracks. I did change the water pump, pulleys and belt tensioiner also front crankcase oil seal. I don't believe the timing belt could be inspected unless it's removed.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    I had upgraded to the red Energy performance bushings. abfisch says he relubes his - I don't remember the color he used, but I ordered red for my AV. Now I'm doing my 79 Olds Cutlass, and I just found that the black is lubricated. Maybe I'll use them this time.

    "What is the difference between the
    Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components?
    Answer: Both are our Energy's HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane formulations. Energy has impregnated selected black polyurethane components with graphite–to add a lubrication property. Additionally, both Energy Suspension ® red and black polyurethane components are engineered differently than OEM rubber components–to be free a floating and non-binding design. This allows for the additional durometer (firmness) of the components, which adds to the performance improvement of the vehicle overall."

    http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/comquest.html">link title
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    Apparently it is a rare occurrence, but the rear wheel bearing on our 2003 started to drone and had to be replaced. These things are expensive, about $300 at the dealer and about $100 aftermarket.

    One benefit, however, is that the brake pulsation has gone. Obviously the bearing has been faulty for a year or so, because that's how long I have had the pulsation.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    My right rear started growling on the way back from AZ, but hasn't gotten much worse. I'll look at it when the weather cools. This shouldn't happen at 55k miles.
  • davidb4775davidb4775 Member Posts: 3
    The clock suddenly went blank. Not being able to locate my owners manual for fuse location, I checked other systems in the car--dome light, radio, cigarette lighter, etc and everything seems to work fine. I pulled the cover off the fuse compartment on the left side of the driver as well as the covers from the two fuse compartments under the hood and failed to see "clock" on any of the fuse location diagrams.

    Can someone advise which fuse covers the clock?
    Can someone offer suggestions to the clock issue if all fuses are good?
    Does someone have the manual that they can email to me?
    Thanks in advance
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    55396:

    I used the black ones. Every now and again, they seem to need a relub. Too bad the brackets don't have a grease fittings, sway bars I am talking about. Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out. It really does improve the vehicles handling although you have to be careful as how much vibration you want to let into the cabin.

    abfisch
  • chebuckchebuck Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2000 Avalon XLS. I have several interior issues that I'd like to correct.

    1. The plastic latch on the center console is worn/damaged and will not stay latched. The plastic latch appears to be easy to replace, but dealer does not stock the $2 part and wants to sell the $80 console. Any suggestions?

    2. The electronic mirror's dimming feature does not appear to be working. Any suggestions?
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    You might searching for used parts online. I found a color matched mirror for my daughters Camry that way.
  • garagedudegaragedude Member Posts: 5
    On my 2002 AVALON - I opted to have my timing belt changed by a shop rather than do it myself. Had new cam shaft seals installed, and new water pump. Cost about $580. This engine is non-inteference type. While book says change at 90k, the shop I used said he has rarely seen one break before 150k. For piece of mind - I had mine changed at 118k. I inspected old belt - no sign of wear, TOYOTA label on back of belt still readible even after running over idler all these miles. Belt may have been a little more brittle, but no cracks were evident. AMAZING!!!!
    Also I changed my spark plugs at 124 k miles - book says 120k. They were as clean as a whistle and probably would have worked for a lot longer. However I was glad I did it as two were a little testy getting loose. Wouldn't you know - they were in the back and leaverage was the problem.
  • mikecraigmikecraig Member Posts: 13
    Two of the cruise control buttons on my 2000 Avalon are going bad. They actually still work but the tactile detents are weak to nonexistent. I want to replace the whole assembly.
    Does anyone know how to do this? There is a cover plate on the reverse side of the buttons but prying with a screw driver did not release it. I’m afraid to pry too hard. It might break.
  • jimajima Member Posts: 2
    Getting ready to place order for KYB struts, but had a question regarding the mounts. Seems you can just buy the strut bearing or the complete strut mount? Which one should I buy?

    BTW, my 2000 avalon is on the org. struts w/ approx 136000 (purchase car w/85000 on it) - I'm ready to drive instead of navigating the car down the road :)

    any other tips before I purchase struts would be must appreciated.
    ps. also plan to replace the front/rear bushings (rubber vice poly - wifes car)

    thanks!
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    Has anyone replaced one of these? I have a growl, and I think it's the left rear bearing. Turn to the right to put more weight on it and it worsens. To the left, it lessens. MY QUESTION: Is it an easy do-it-yourself change, or is it a pressed assembly replacement that is more involved? Anyone have a service manual? I have an 03 Avalon.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    I have replaced my struts and bushings at about 50k miles on my wifes 03 Avalon. Not that I needed to, but I wanted a firmer more controlled ride, and I like to experiment to see what I can accomplish. My take offs are available for sale at a reasonable price if anyone needs them. Search on 55396 for earlier posts. I still haven't installed the rear bushings yet as I seem to have an odd sized rear sway bar - 17mm, and I had to buy 16mm bushings that need to be honed out. Measure yours before ordering.

    Today I took my wifes car. It has been awhile since installing struts and bushings. I went down a hill where the road narrowed to cross an old small bridge, then up the hill again. The car hardly flinched, much as a BMW would take it. Very controlled. And, as I was coming across a 4 lane street where the slabs of concrete had shifted due to truck traffic, it was also well controlled. But, I noticed the headlights on the car a ways behind me were really affected, bobbing loosely up and down. I would have guessed it was a large Buick, so I slowed up to see. Unfortunately, it turned off, but I could see that it was a mid sized car. Now, we drive in a more sporting manner at times, but most of the tome it's just normal driving and trips to Arizona fully loaded, where the control is really appreciated. After break in, I would say that this set up is just about ideal.. You can corner as hard as you like, and it stays flat and controlled. I love it, and my wife feels it is ideal too.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    "Would be interested to here how the 79 Olds comes out."

    Well, I replaced the shocks at about the same time as the bushongs. Way back when they first downsized the Monte Carlo, I test drove one and didn't like what they did with the suspension. Same for the Olds. It just doesn't seem right. Anyway, the shocks were shot, so I replaced them with cheap $9.99 HD gas shocks. Small shaft, but they seem to work OK. Maybe not so good on extended hard use, and maybe won't last too long, but I won't drive it much, so they serve the purpose. Front sway bushings and shocks firmed it right up, but I still notice the character of the design, which is to be expected. Now, she just had cheap tires on standard wheels, which may be part of the problem. Also, this car has no rear sway bar, so I will be looking for 442 bars for front and rear. I expect this to make the big difference. Time will tell.
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    Mine went at 53K, and I had it fixed at the dealer. I don't believe there is any special feature of these bearings, but dealer price is an amazing $300 + labor. The same bearing is available for about $100 in the aftermarket - still expensive, but much cheaper than at the dealer.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    "dealer price is an amazing $300 + labor"

    Retail of course. I just found the bearing assembly online for $138. A friend takes his cars to a local salvage yard where the mechanic is a stock car racer. Shop rate labor is much less. We also use a local family shop that specializes in Audi's. They are also lower than dealers.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    I just did a Froogle search on this. You can get the bearing alone for about $38. The bearing pressed into and including the housing for $70, and the complete assembly was listed for $79 + $12 shipping. Others ran up into the hundreds. It pays to shop.
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    Follow up. I drove the car out to the junk yard mechanic. We took it for a drive and agreed that it was probably the left rear. It isn't very loud, but there nevertheless. He would replace it for $48 labor. Would sell me a used assembly for $45 installed and guarantee it, but said he wouldn't spend the money yet as he has heard them many many times worse. He knew we would out on 5-6000 miles going to Arizona. I asked if he had ever heard of one locking up and he said no. I guess we'll gamble as he said it's difficult to tell which it is at this point, and we could do the wrong one. He would also install any part that I brought to him with no additional mark up, which I offered to give him, forgoing the profit from selling the part.

    I also had my wheels and tires switched over for winter at Sams Club. No charge. I noticed some outside wear on one when I threw it in the car and asked their opinion. They called me into the shop and showed me tread wear. "No, overall tread wear is acceptable. I would get one more trip out of them. Should have another 10k in them". In both cases, they could have made a sale or money, yet did what was best for me, the customer. The first time I met either of them. Now, I will say that a good salesman or service guy can read a customer. Go there without a clue about things and your answers may be quite different.
  • smurphysgirlsmurphysgirl Member Posts: 1
    we just bnought our first toyota this week. we got a 2004 avlon xls. and we need key fobs I have the part number for them but I want to save some money and buy them on ebay. the part number is 89742-ac054. but I need the fcc number anyone have this? or know where I can get it.


    thanks
  • kimbakapkimbakap Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. To make this as short as possible (it could be reeeaally long!), I will cut to the chase. Took my 2001 Avalon in for a 125k service at a dealership (something I normally don't do). Every system was looked at, tuned up, etc etc. Timing belt changed. A few other things done, but I decided to wait on changing front struts and rotors. Service guy told me my car is in great shape.

    12 hours after I picked it up, I am going 60 on a highway...step on gas...no reaction...I have the pedal to the floor....no acceleration.(and no, I wasn't in neutral) Narrowly miss getting hit by a truck, pull to the side, and get the car towed back to dealership. (Nothing anything like this at alll has ever happened).

    Dealer looks over the car, road tests, leaves me a message saying there is NOTHING WRONG with my car. It's fine.

    How is that possible? Does anyone have any advice as to what it could be and/or what I should do?

    Thanks so much. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

    T
  • whilstwhilst Member Posts: 19
    Hi. Sounds like fuel starvation-did they replace fuel filter?,Mass air flow meter-usually will cause "check engine" light to come on, Throttle Position sensor- again Check engine light will usually come on.
    Any other warnings,any lights,how is fuel level?
    Take car to an Autozone or similar. They usually charge nothing for diagnostic check.
    There should be a "record" stored in computer.OR: "fault" has corrected itself and there will be no memory stored.
    How far have you driven since P/U from dealer?
    Let us know.
    "whilst"
  • kimbakapkimbakap Member Posts: 2
    Hi-

    Thanks so much for responding! OK, no warning lights came on...I literally went from going 60MPH seemingly fine to not being able to accelerate at all.

    I picked up the car at the dealer last night and drove the 2 miles home. This morning, I had driven about 10 miles or so when this happened. I had a half a tank of gas.

    The car is back at the dealership now (towed there). Its funny because they said nothing was wrong with the car but they did replace the fuel filter today, which they had not done yesterday. Could they have taken it out and not put a new one back in? (I'm not trying to blame these guys, but it seems more than a little strange that my car has never had any problem like this and then this happens 12 miles after I pick it up!!)

    Keep the info coming and thank you soo much! :)
  • whilstwhilst Member Posts: 19
    Hey. So,what happened?
    Is car back from dealer?
    Running OK?
    I doubt that they would put back old filter.
    Let us know.
    Jeff.
  • whilstwhilst Member Posts: 19
    Has dealer checked fuel pump?
    Jeff.
  • 2001xls2001xls Member Posts: 3
    As a follow on to my '03 post about my '01 XLS - it's now 4 years later and at this point we're at 180k miles and the only problem that we've experienced is the failure of the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Imagine that! After 3+ sets of MXV's and two windshields later this car has performed much better than expected. In fact, it's now ready for some shocks - would like to hear recommendations for aftermarket replacements to stiffen the suspension. The only other issue we ran into was the rear sway bar bushings, which needed replacement at about 90k if I remember correctly. That eliminated the banging that occurs once they wear out.

    Hat's off to Toyota on an absolutely great car! :shades:
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    You should find all you need in this forum or in

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f0e8ddb/130

    You could also search on abfisch and 55396.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    2001xls:

    Nice posting. I have similar and have contributed to this site for awhile. Have an 02 Avalon XL with 96K on it. Have had CV/axle problems in the beginning with the car but now OK. Automatic car washes are hurtful to the brakes up here in North County.

    To answer your questions about suspension, I have posted these before but will again for you. I would not recommend putting in OEM Toyota struts/dampers. They are inferior in quality and performance to a twin tube low pressure gas shock. Two manufacturers, both TokicoHP and KYB GR2's are both very good. You will thoroughly enjoy the difference. For a high mileage car, the bushing/bump stops for the top of the shock housing and rubber where the spring sit s on the strut should be replaced at the same time too.

    Have them check on the CAB(control arm bushings) as well as the sway bar bushings. They are made of rubber and they dry rot through the years. They do make PU(polyurethane) bushings which are essentially thick plastic instead of rubber(Energy Suspension). I like them better, but they are NOT for everyone. There performance is superior, which makes the Avalon's turn in much sharper without an body lean b/w the shocks and the bushings. And they do not deteriorate at all like rubber so no need to replace again. However......there are disadvantages. They are higher maintainance, and tend to creak if not lubed once a year, and they do affect ride qualtiy negatively. To describe it to everyone, your XLS requires 32 PSI in the tires. Put 37 PSI in all your tires and ride around in it for awhile. That is how it will ride(quality) with PU bushings. So if the roads are bad, so will be the ride. If it is mainly highway, it will be much more controlling. Start with the struts and their associated hardware.

    Otherwise a very good car. The tranny fluid and the PS fluid(same fluid) should be addressed if not done so already.

    Hope this helps.

    abfisch
  • winnieiewinnieie Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 1999 Toyota Avalon. I have heard reports in here about the more recent ones of how they have trnasmission probs and other oddities. Can somebody tell me what to expect from a 1999 Avalon? What kind of mileage could they run as high as before the car was done for? It has 149,000 miles on it.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    I put 90k trouble free miles on mine, a '99 XL, before going to an '03 XL. The first one was near perfect. Trouble spots in general for the '99 model year were a soft suspension, excessive front brake wear, some engines that had an oil circulation problem and an A/C temp control problem on the XLS only. Despite all this, it was still a very reliable car compared to all others.

    With proper care the car could go 200k, maybe more. Do you know anything about the car's history? Got a Carfax report? Priced right, based on condition? Think about it... you might have a winner! Hope this helps. :)
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    Sounds unbelievable but last night I got 40.3 MPG on my XLS (as measured by the digital display which is quite accurate). On my stop-and-go normal commute I usually get 18 - 21 MPG. Last night I decided to take the expressway and I got this unbelievable 40 MPG even though I was driving between 60 and 70 mph. Somehow I could sense something unusual was happening because the engine purred so smoothly and quietly just like the first day I brought my baby home in July 2000.

    For the record the car is a 2000XLS with 60,900 miles on it and I've had only one problem so far, the replacement of a fuel sensor. I rarely drive on the freeway as most of my driving is confined to the traditional suburban to city driving. Great car although my brakes seem pulsate especially on wet surfaces.

    Question to Avalon owners, how is your Avy holding up in terms of handling and repair costs? And are you getting anywhere near the mileage I reported above.
  • rpfingstenrpfingsten Member Posts: 154
    Bwia... if that's accurate that's incredible.. Funny you brought that up tonight because just tonight I checked my mileage since my last fill up. In combination city / highway driving my o7xls averaged 28.2 miles to the gallon. However I don't think the computer displayed avg. is accurate. I did the math the old fashion way ( on a calculator ) when I got home and it came out to 26.74 mpg. Not sure what post it was I read, but somewhere on this board, somebody reported that the odometers were'nt calibrated perfectly, as a result your mileage and computer displayed fe would also be off.. If anyone remembers that post, please refer me to it so I can go back and look at it and re-calculate my FE. Thanks.

    Roland
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    No, I have never achieved more than 33 mpg on my 2003 XLS, and then only at 75 mph on long stretches of Florida's Turnpike. Of course the warm air doesn't contribute to ideal combustion conditions. Most of my long journeys average 29 mph, and the computer and my direct calculations are usually within 1.5 mpg of each other.

    The pulsation on braking is a very well-known feature of our previous-model Avalons. The disks warp easily, aided by regular overtorquing of the lug bolts by gorillas at the tire shop or dealership. Hand tightening the bolts will somewhat reduce the problem, but ultimately the only solution is to replace the (front) disks and pads. I did this with Brembo disks and Toyota Racing Development pads at 60K, and the braking is now completely normal (and quite sporty).
  • 5539655396 Member Posts: 529
    Anyone know if rotor warpage occurs primarily on the front which does most of the work? I would assume that to be the case. If so, maybe it's only necessary to replace the front. Or, are your mechanics only replacing ones that are actually warped? I suppose it depends on how many times they have been resurfaced also.
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    I have only replaced the front rotors, and pulsation has gone, so I assume the rears are OK. Normally it is the fronts that warp in most models and brands.

    I don't remember the source but I recall reading that resurfacing the Avalon disks was a waste of time, since the reduced thickness simply contributed to further warping. There is a significant labor charge anyway. The concept of using new better-quality disks seemed appropriate to me.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Be assured you made the right decision. The OE rotors were one of the weak spots in this five year run of Avalons. Enjoy your car... Have had one of each generation of Avalons... great cars... :)
  • 49364936 Member Posts: 15
    You asked about others experience. Just traded my 2000 XLS for a 2008 LTD. We already have had a 36mpg on interstate 62-65 mph trip. The 2000 never got that high on the same run usually 33-34mp this is from eastern Pa to western Indiana. Always better coming back than going west. The 2000 had 106000 miles miles with no problems other than the battery gave up in the last month. I had new plugs, timing belt water pump, replaced all struts around 75000 miles. The car was perfect in all respects, got about $12000.00 against the new one MRSP $36000.00 paid out $2000.00
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    Be assured you made the right decision. The OE rotors were one of the weak spots in this five year run of Avalons.

    I have to agree with you on that. On Tuesday the dealer replaced the rotors and brake pads on all 4 wheels of my 2000XLS at a draw dropping price of $1,018 (after a 10% discount). This is by far the most expensive (or should I say taken to the cleaners) brake job I've experienced in my life.

    The mechanic said there was significant pulsating on both front and rear wheels but the rotors were too warped to machine down. Seeing how slow it was at the dealership in these hard economic times the service manager was obviously trying to sell up to pay for those idle mechanics. Nonetheless, the car is driving fine again and it almost feels as new. Now only if I could stop them from pressuring me into doing a 60K mile service.
  • mcclearyflmcclearyfl Member Posts: 149
    Your experience is like my $380 charge for the part and labor on a rear wheel bearing. Toyota parts prices can be frightening, and I don't know why - there are many aftermarket OEM parts suppliers.

    I paid $85 for two Brembo front disks; I can't remember the cost of the pads because I have had them for over two years, but let's say $50. Thus the aftermarket cost of parts for front and back approximates to $270. The difference between that figure and your $1018 is solely due to labor and the high cost of Toyota parts.

    My 2003 Avalon is long out of warranty, so the need to patronize these high-price dealers has long since gone. Where possible I buy aftermarket parts and negotiate the labor charge with the dealer's service department. They used to be reluctant to do work in this manner but, as you say, a dollar is a dollar these days, and they are much more willing to go after your business. I could easily have avoided the heft wheel bearing charge, but I had not been aware of the problem prior to taking my noisy car to the dealer.
  • jesch1jesch1 Member Posts: 9
    Consider your luck. My rear wheel bearing was $468.00. That will cost them a new car sale and all my past business and recommendations worth another ten cars! All for 15 minutes labor! On 66,000 miles.
    I can remember wheel bearings packed for comparatively nothing! In fact, it was a comparatively simple do it yourself effort.
  • njavalonguynjavalonguy Member Posts: 35
    I had the check engine light come on in my 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS (85000 miles) and I took the car to autozone and my local mechanice both of whom diagnosed the error code as P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold ( Bank # 1). My mechanic said this problem was common on avalons and attributed the reason to the catalytic converter failure. He said it would cost me $ 630 /- for parts + $ 100 /- for labour to replace. Which In my opinion is too high. Has anyone faced a similar issue before ? There is no effect on the performance or MPG of the car. What could've gone wrong and how much will it cost me to fix ? Is it really the Cat conv or the O2 sensor ? Incase its the cat, can I buy one from junkyard ? Also will it have any effect on the car in the long run ( besides failing the DMV Inspection) if I continue to drive without addressing this issue.
  • kpraveenkpraveen Member Posts: 22
    I got the same problem and was able to fix it.
    It is very easy to fix and just matter of $99+ tax (on $99).
    Let me tell you exactly what needs to be done, based on the code P0420 you need O2 sensor before catalyst. I bought BOSCH made O2 sensor in autozone for $99.99 (part# 13355) link: http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,07029/initialAction,partProductDetail/initia- - lpartType,00117/initialR,APP230038/shopping/selectZip.htm

    It is very easy to replace before cat than after cat, you can take help of autozone guys to show where it exactly located or you can search online, there are several websites guides how to replace it. Sorry, i am in a rush but thought to let you know so that you can easily fix over this weekend.
    Again, this part is like plug n play installation. There are other universal models available where they price 30 to 40 dollars cheaper than bosch made but installation takes more time than Bosch. If price is not a constraint you can buy Bosch and install it yourself. You have to run your car for 2 miles before you change it but dont over run because it will over heat the part and difficult to replace it as it becomes too hot.
    It will fail DMV inspection if you dont fix it. Also, DONOT take it to DMV inspection until you drive the car for 1000 miles and put fuel injector in fuel tank.
    Hope this helps you and good luck.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    There are 3 posible answers here: The UPstream O2 sensor is bad, the DOWNstream O2 sensor is bad or the Cat Converter is bad. You cannot really tell without diagnostic machines or scanners and an understanding of how the system works. (But a bad sensor may produce a different code in addition to this one.)

    Before doing anything: fill up and drive at the legal limit+ for at least an hour. Load the car with people and turn on the AC. Fill the trunk. Find some hills. Make the engine work. You may be able to burn off buildup on the Cat filter surfaces and fix the problem. Try this several times. You don't drive a lot (8 years, 85k) so the converter may be able to fix itself if you get it hot enough for a while.

    If this fails and the light is still on, there are various electronic tests that compare voltage between the sensors. These tests are helpful but you must start with a cold engine and take some time...money wasted if the converter is in fact bad. Both sensors probably cost less than the test if the test is done properly.

    Do not use a salvage converter. You have no idea as to the condition and cannot measure it prior to installation. You can't pass inspection with this code showing but the car will drive ok. There may be no good solution except to replace the Cat converter. Hope this helps.... :)
  • njavalonguynjavalonguy Member Posts: 35
    Thanks fin and Praveen for your quick responses, what you are saying perfectly makes sense to me...

    Infact I have a few more inputs to add since I have been facing this problem for almost a month now. The light had turned itself off after I changed the gas station and started filling Exxon instead of Shell..just to return back "on" during a long trip > 120 miles last week....so I am really confused .what exactly is the problem...

    fin - is there a simpler test like an emissions test or something done which I can get done for much lesser cost which can definitely tell me whether the CAT is indeed performing sub optimally or no.

    praveen - do you also have a 2000 avalon and did the problem get solved just by changing the O2 sensor ? coz my mechanic tells me that if the O2 sensors are faulty then I should be getting some other code besdies P0420

    Eargerly awaiting your replies

    Aditya
  • kpraveenkpraveen Member Posts: 22
    I have 1995 avalon with 169k miles on it. There are no other codes displayed besides P0420 for before cat O2 sensor.
    I also experienced the same way that the check engine was going on & off for few weeks but after a month time it was on for long time. I did not fix it the check engine for almost 6 months but when inspection time was near i had to fix it.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    The OBD system is a constant test of all parts of the car. And it's free. Other tests, to check on the OBD error code in this case, are not worthwhile if you pay full price for them.

    If this were my car and it was doing OK otherwise, a good car, and I intended to keep it for some time, (and driving for an hour at freeway speeds with injector cleaner has not solved the problem) here is list of things you might consider:

    1. Get the 90k service. Clean the injectors off the car. Replace the plugs. Then drive the car. If the CEL is still on and will not go off on the highway, replace the O2 sensors.
    2. If none of this gets the light to stay off and no other codes appear, replace the Cat converter.

    Some people replace the sensors at 100k anyway. They heat to the same temp as the converter and won't last forever. But they are much cheaper to replace if they go bad and you don't really need a converter. Good luck! :)
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