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Drained and refilled with plain water 3 times, while running the engine (heater on) for a few minutes in between. Then refilled with 50% anti-freeze, 50% tap water. As someone mentioned, no need to bother with vent plugs, just drive a bit and top off. Good for another 30000 miles.
Unless you live in an area where the water is saturated with calcium, or you change it every month, I wouldn't bother with distilled or deionized water. Those water channels just aren't *that* small (the only place they are small is in the rediator, but can we say "huge surface area").
-Rob-
The car turns over but doesn't start. Even after I changed the fuel filter, disconnected/reconnected the battery, banged doors/hood, it still won't start.
Appreciate your suggestions.
In case some of aren't aware, some '99s and most '00s and subsequent use different atf than earlier models.
I drove it around town (20 mile radius)without incident for a week, then went on a 350 mile road trip. After about 200 miles of freeway driving, the problem occurred again - same scenario.
After 15 minutes, it started fine and we completed the trip. We returned from that trip, 350 miles without incident.
One week later, I repeated the 350 mile trip. The stall out occurred after about 200 miles of continuous driving, and again at then again about 75 miles later.
I had a local shop replace the fuel filter. Two days later, on the return trip, the incident happened again after about 275 and again at 325 miles. Only this time, it took about 30 minutes of cool down each time to be able to start the van. Initial attempts resulted in very rough idling, with pops and sputters.
I took the vehicle to a local mechanic, and he said the onboard computer registered a lean code, but no other codes were registered. They could not reproduce the stall, and said that the only way to figure this out was to capture the code with the diagnostic device while an incident is in progress (obviously impractical).
Since the last occurrence, I have put about 1500 miles on the van by in-town driving without incident. The longest trip was about 75 miles of freeway driving each way in one day.
I am very reluctant to put it on the road for very long, yet that's why we have the van, to take trips. I would appreciate some advice so we can begin to exorcise the demon, and get back on the road. Anything anyone can suggest will be appreciated. Thanks, FredK, Alpharetta,GA
ATF-4 is still not approved as a replacement for
ATF-3.
Fredk4,
I agree with Scanner. Another possibility is the fuel pump has a built-in pickup screen that is probably getting clogged on occasion. The purpose of this screen is prevent contaminants, such as water, from damaging the fuel system. The fuel pump probably should be replaced due to the labor involved. If the fuel pump is going to be removed or replaced, make sure the fuel tank is cleaned also. Hope this helps.
the lamps are clean.
the brights seem like regular lights
any suggestions from anybody.
can you buy stronger lamps that are legal
Is this critical to the operation of the Van?
In the mean time the technician just remove the power somewhere , and the indicator lights are no longer flashing, but does not function.
When I say butons, those are the ones, under the AM/FM/cassette deck.
Thanks
Eric
First Sign of problem :
1. A/C will work and then stop blowing cool air.
2. Starts heating up when driving below 65 MPH, and you end up turning the engine Off because it start beeping at you that's overheating.
Problem found:
1. radiator double fans are not working.
so a/c shuts off automatically because the heat it produces can't be cooled down. also engine overheats.
Solution:
1. Buy a FAN RELAY at the dealer (I paid $40..list price $85) and replace it. It's very easy and it takes less than 10 minutes to set it up. It's located below the air filter housing.
Remove Airfilter plastic cover, disconnect big Hose from carburator(I think that's what it is,located on top of engine, i'm not a mechanic, I do computers stuff)to loose the black plastic housing , then remove bottom housing of black plastic (1 bolt) and then you'll see the tiny square shape fan relay, remove it and replace it, it works like a champ.
Do not turn on the car while the fan relay is disconnected 'cause it will make a new error code show up on the Engine service soon light. ( I did this mistake and I'd end up disconnecting the battery to erase the light).
Hope this is useful. Bye
It is the 41TE not 42.
The 41TE transmissions in late 99 and current mopar vehicles currently use ATF+4 Type 9602. Most...(not all) people who experience tranny failures in their DC minivan or chrysler vehicle is from improper tranny fluid replacement with Dexron. Dexron is not compatible with the 41TE and will eventually cause it to fail. It happened to our 96 Grand Caravan LE. Only use the proper Chrysler tranny fluid ATF+3 type 7176 for pre 1999 vehicles and ATF+4 type 9602 for late 1999 and current vehicles. Never use Dexron/Mercon. Always refer to your owners manual first.
Check this website for this information.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~gluckman/Chrysler/CCD/Ultradrive.html
ultradrive. Yes the 41TE is a improved version
of the ultradrive. I believe that the 41TE gets tweaked here and there every year because I have not had any of those problems from those TSBs on that website or any of the current TSBs. I don't think that information is pertinent to the 96-and up vans because its dated info.
The only thing that happened to our 96 GC LE was getting new tranny put in at 78,000 miles from the use of DEXRON in the tranny. Ever since that incident, we kept using the RECOMMENDED fluid where shift quality felt like new and didn't have any problems all the way up to 141,000 when we got rid of it. Not everyone experiences the same things but I do believe alot of tranny failures are caused by improper maintainance and lack of reading the fine print. Our 00 is doing well and it does have the 41TE. Most of us already know you dislike Mopar. Just leave it at that. It's not necessary to keep dragging it along. You made your point already.
Fluid specs have changed, firmware may have changed, and warranties have changed - but the unit itself is the same one that's been used since 1992.
http://www.badbusinessbureau.com/view.asp?id=2078
Enjoy
The SM acted like this was a common repair for ten year old Chrysler minivans so I am wondering if anyone else on this board has had it.
If Honda is having troubles with automatics, the trouble is relatively recent and it's entirely possible.
However, I know enough people who have had trouble with DaimlerChrysler 4-speeds as late as 97-98 - despite proper maintenance - that the problems have not entirely disappeared. Ours was older than that, but failed - despite meticulous maintenance - not just once, but twice.
Our Toyota and Subarus have had no automatic transmission troubles at all - one Toyota, in fact, having gone almost 200,000 miles. Same maintenanace as the DaimlerChrysler unit, different outcome.
Maybe they have finally fixed the problem in the last couple of years - in a couple of years, we'll have the reliabiltiy statistics to tell the story. If Daimler truly has extended the warranty to 5/60 on the newer units, that should be a sign of hope (since it shortened the 7/70 warranty to 3/36 a while ago, when it was faced with something on the order of $3 billion in warranty costs with the longer warranty).
As for Toyota, we have 3 in our driveway. IMHO, the best built cars in the world. Never had problems with any of them. The only chrysler vehicles we have had were 3 minivans. I feel confident that chrysler and the 41TE has been improved. Thats why we bought a 2000 and have a 100K Mile extended warranty just to be safe.
were quite un-impressive also..."all the slippage of an automatic with all the inconvenience of a clutch."