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Thanks.
Pat
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air filter slot for the XL seems to be there, and looks like glove box and surround will need to be dropped to get to it. parts dept suggests that it can be added.
any ideas on adding 10cd player for XL? remote FM radio type anyone? how to remote power?
wood dash parts for XL add up to $300 not including installation...has anyone done this?
My dad has a 97' Avalon and recently had the same problems with the suspension and struts. The dealer said he was responsible for the cost due to normal wear and tear. Has anyone had any luck with Toyota covering the cost of this inferior product. My dad purchased some sort of all terrain extended warranty at the dealer when he purchased the car new. Any pointers or advice. He's actually thinking about riding himself of this potential money pit now that he has approx 75000 mile on it.
I have since added a Dynomax Super Turbot muffler to the car, and the results have been awesome.
Not only does the car sound better, but I swear the performance is noticeably better, seems much faster. The best bang for your buck when it comes to getting a little more horse power.
15 second very noisy (sound like loose belt)
before the motor stopped. Go down is OK.
Please, let me know how to fix it.
PS. The dealer thinks it is "antenna mast" problem, cost $45 part, labor $110.
What is the TDA fee in Oregon? I know it is not the $1,000 one dealer insisted it was and am guessing it is closer to $400.
Each of these cars has about $1,000 in hold back buried in the invoice. What is a reasonable markup above invoice for each of these cars. I offered one dealer invoice plus $500 as an opener for the Avalon and walked away at their best offer of about invoice plus $2000.
Tankfrank
I notice that some of the 2001 Avalon XLS's have Chrome wheels on them. These were not available when I bought my 2000 XLS (Silver Spruce).
Is this an added cost option or a dealer/Gulf States Toyota thing?
They look nice (although my wife says "too much").
Thanks
Brian
Another option is to contact Dianne in Carson CA. She ships everywhere and I image the shipping wouldn't be all that bad to OR. Her TDA is capped at $300. Her e-mail is dianne@earthlink.net
If Cliffy is correct on LA's TDA being $300, I got this XL for less than $200 over Edmunds.com's invoice price for a cash'n'carry/no trade-in deal. I don't know how she is able to sell at that price; other dealers I contacted were substantially higher. Dianne can process the paperwork to bypass CA sales tax if you can document that the vehicle is headed out-of-state and will be plated out-of-state.
Carson Toyota is ten minutes south of LAX. They have about 20 new Avalons on the lot.
The homebrewed chrome wheels were far too pricey for me. They looked great, but deep-pocketed kids are wearing out this re-treaded fad 'way too quickly. I keep expecting to see moons and Cragars make a comeback any day now.
Oops, I'm showing my age...
Thanks!!
Yes - the Auto Door Lock can be 'turned off'. Next time you have your car to dealer for service, ask that they disconnect this feature. My dealer did it at no cost - no quibble.
Am I being silly, or is this forum turning into a "where's the best place to buy a car" story?
I already am a owner - my interest is about the Avalon itself: What people like about it; what are the dislikes and why; where can accessories (like mudguards) be obtained; any problem areas and how they were resolved. Hope others share my concern.
I had copied the following from a much earlier thread. Can't vouch for the procedure since the wife likes the lock feature(I hate it). But its her car.....
Good Luck
#315 of 327: tripper3 (joedbob) Sat 25 Mar '00 (06:41 PM)
To disable the 2000 Avalon auto lock feature:
With ignition switch on, open the closed driver's door.
Turn ignition switch off, insert/remove key 5 times within 10 seconds (Don't turn it on and off, just remove/insert the key).
Press the unlock side of the door lock switch 5 times within 10 seconds.
About 10 seconds after completing the above the auto lock is disabled.
To enable it you do the same thing, only hit the lock side of the switch.
Well it came back but would intermittently go away. Ironically it seemed that when the temp outside was warmer (with Sun directly on the windshield) the rattle would disappear. But on cold, overcast days it rattles.
What could this be? In my mind I think it is something with the windshield that when it gets hot, seals better or gets gummy or something that stops the rattle (center base of windshield).
Any thoughts here? Am I losing it?
Brian M
The dash, however, may be the culprit. Mostly plastic with lots of thermal expansion and pliability when heated. When cold, it can be hard and is more likely to rattle when rubbed against wiring harnesses, retaining clips, abutting peices, and the like.
Stuff like this is hard to isolate and can drive you nuts. Take it to the dealer on a cold day and insist they drive it with you so they cant say "Unable to replicate problem" as they are wont to do.
Either that or just trun up the radio and learn to live with it.
HiC
I go to LA several times a year on business. I will keep Dianne at Carson Toyota in mind and maybe arrange to drive one back from one of my trips just before I retire.
Tankfrank
I went to her car and pushed the selector it fresh and within 10 seconds, the windows were clear. She was so excited, she fell in love with her old car again. She drove off thanking me and I just stood there with mixed feelings. I really needed to sell a car that day but I'm glad she was happy.
Is this true?
I have a 97 Avalon with 73k and with all the pot holes it is hard to say whether the struts are bad or not. Nothing could take these bumps very well. OEM Struts were replaced under warranty at 19k due to bumping sounds. If I do need to replace are there any sporty struts out there that I could use that would tighten my handling and ride? I've heard of Bilstein making sport struts. What would you recommend? Thanks.
HiC
Chewyman - I have no idea. I would look in your maintenance book.
s852 - The Avalon will get a "face lift" in 2003. This will be minor restyling of the front facia and the tail light area. No sheet metal will change until 2005.
Charlestonguy - The '95 Avalon was notorious for that wind noise. It comes from the outside mirror. There is a fix for it but it is not perfect. Your dealer should be able to help you with this and it should be covered under a TSB so it will not cost you anything.
It had many of the issues mentioned here, including clicks, rattles, squeaks, door wind noises and trunk lid problems. The front struts were replaced under warranty at 2000 miles due to odd squeaking sounds. Two trips to fix that one.
The power seat memory buttons failed this winter, the 8th defect requiring dealer attention. We are waiting on parts now.
Originally intended to be my primary work vehicle, it became my wife's vehicle. The Avalon was driving me and my local dealership in Boston nuts. The Toyota Zone folks were responsive but ineffective. Something they fixed, some they didn't, some new they brought along. Letters to U.S. Toyota management never got answered.
The number of defects this vehicle has had makes the reported number of average defects in jdpower awards statistically unlikely. So there must be some real "tweaking" of those numbers for the Avalon to show it on par with the Carry.
This was our third Toyota, and the first made in America.' After living with it for a year, it will be our last one. A good used Lexus, made in Japan, is a much, much better purchase or even a used Class Mercedes. The Avalon isn't a quality product. To me the fit and finish is mediocre, the materials used to make it faux, light weight and cheap-feeling.
This is one ugly dog that we can't grow to love.
Again, my understanding is that this repair is not perfect, but it will reduce the wind noise on the 95 Avalons.
The Silent Majority
here on the road too, my feeling is that, the
car looks so ugly and funky from behind, i guess
mainly because the tires are too small for the
huge trunk. for a $30k car, they don't even put
big enough tires for it, toyota is so cheap!!!
Times have changed. You are fortunate. Enjoy your Avalons.
Thanks in Advance
Michael
For those of you who frequently ask, what is a reasonable price to pay? he suggests dealers are happy to make $300 to $400 over invoice for a $20,000 vehicle, which can be used as baseline for negotiating.
His conclusion? Use resources obtained from Edmund's, etc. but buy from a dealer because of the personal service and the ability to correct minor problems . Sorry Cliffy
Common sense would say dealers "SHOULD" be able to sell for the same or less than any internet website. The question is whether it is worth your time, effort and aggravation to get them to do it.
Other surverys show "Car Bargains" as getting the lowest prices.
I have always stressed that the best price is not always the best deal. There are plenty of people in this world who would gladly pay $300 more for a car if they can avoid showroom hassles. I found that if I provided immediate price quotes with no hidden fees, customers were more prone to agreeing to a higher price.
This didn't always work. The "volume" cars like the Camry and Corolla were ones that required "give away" deals to drag the customer in. Things like the Avalon and Sienna were the ones that commanded higher prices over the Internet (remember, the last time I was exclusively an Internet salesman was when the 2000 Avalons first came out). Right now, it is the Highlander and Sequoia that bring the premium price, even for an "Internet" customer.
Service still counts and superior service can be found through many dealer's Internet departments. You have many choices on how to purchase. You can go the traditional route where you get the run around by uniformed salesmen, get the hard close by 4 managers and get the "bait and switch" thrown at you and if you are a real "grinder", you may get the lowest price. Or, you can e-mail several stores and choose the one who is the most responsive. You can be immune from annoying phone calls and reply to e-mails at your convenience. You can have the car and the paperwork waiting for you and spend no more than 45 minutes finalizing the deal at the dealership. You may pay a bit more, but it could be worth it.