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Comments
Starts everytime, runs a couple of minutes then dies. Everything else seems fine.
Is the fuel pump in the tank?
The Sandman
Thanks for the information.
The person at the dealership told me they would let have with the walkout price of $14000. Is this a good deal or should I haggle some more? I want the cheapest price I can get for this vehicle.
BTW: there is also a $2500 cash back if you pay cash up front or a $1500 cash back if you finance. The thing is I don't know if the prices are incorporated into the price they told me of $14K; need your input please.
Replace mass air flow module, strainer fuel, fuel pump assy and in my opinion a customer pump as well. This included a smog certificate. After 50 miles the check engine light came back on. I brought it back and they said it would need a catalytic converter (750.00) I did not have it done the engine light has been on for about 30,000 miles and still runs except for a sticky accelerator pedal. I'm not sure what will happen if I keep running it that way. Anyone have any ideas?
#1 - In Dec '04 I took my 2000 GXE into a dealership (I know... $$$) for repairs... I wanted it done WELL. Problems: acceleration in 1st gear was SLOW, real slow until I reached ~3000 RPM. The check engine light was on and the diagnostic was Low Fuel Grade. Fix: cleaned the fuel injection system of carbon build-up. That's what they did at least. I didn't notice vast improvements.
Now... acceleration is EVEN SLOWER in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd!!! Usually just after it has been sitting for a few hours. So, I took it in to a mechanic (not a dealership) and the diagnostic reads the same (c.e. light still on, never went off). Now, this mechanic is saying the fuel filter has never been changed (although I'd requested it done during oil changes... how am I to know if they did or didn't) because of the fact that the filter is IN the FUEL PUMP. Now... is this true? Because I'm about to be charged for a whole new fuel pump in order to fix this... AGAIN!!!
Since this is the worst, most pricey problem... I'll leave it at this for now. But there are 2 more problems I'll list later. Argh!!! What is wrong with my poor Nina?!?!?!? That's her name...
:sick:
The last time my Sentra would not start I had it towed. My car sat on the Nissan shop lot for almost 24 hours before they looked at it. I was told they could not find anything wrong with my car.
One month later I am having the same problem. After letting my car sit for seven hours it started right up and the engine remained on.
Does anyone know what could be the problem? :confuse:
Also, my Sentra has 189,000 miles.
I have a 1996 Sentra GXE with 114K miles. During moderate acceleration, the battery light goes on. During steady speeds below 55mph, the battery light stays off - but at speeds above 55mph, the battery light comes on.
With the car in park and engine running, I attached a voltmeter and got the following readings:
1. At idle, the voltage was 13.5 V
2. At moderate rpm's, voltage was about 13.5 V
3. When rpms are increased and just before the battery light comes on, the voltage drops to 12.2 V. It is also 12.2 V while the battery light is on.
I checked the fuses, electrical connections, and belt tension and they all seem good.
Can an alternator fail with the above symptoms - good at low rpm's and bad at higher rpm's?
Thanks for any input.
I read about the recall for the engine sensor, but my VIN # is not on the list.
The only repairs I have had lately are all 4 brake pads replaced, I tried to save some money so my boyfriend did the repairs.
Any correlation between the brakes and the engine stalling?
My car only has 26,000 miles on it, even thought it is a 2001.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Anyway, I replaced the alternator and everything runs good. With A/C and lights on, I still got 14V across the battery terminals.
The other day when I was trying to turn the a/c down while driving, I accidentally turned it too far, all the way up to heat. When I turned it back to cool, it remained stuck with the heat coming out of the vents at full force. I pulled the knob off, thinking it was broken, but it works fine, so its not a simple broken knob issue. Even with the the fan and a/c off and the dial on the coolest, heat pours out as if the heat was still on and the fan at full blast.
I have an appointment on Saturday to have it checked out but the mechanic had never heard of this happening before either. I'm just curious if anyone else has had this and what the result was? .... it's a little annoying that they will charge $89 just to look at it, and living in Florida I just can't ignore it. It would be one thing if the air was not blowing cold or the a/c failed to work, but blowing in hot air in 90 plus temps just doesn't cut it.
At the beginning of May we bought a Sentra 1.8S, auto, w/o ABS.
Last week, after about 1400 miles, my wife and I were driving on the highway
at about 75mph; she tried to break gently reduce her speed because there was
a slower car in front of us, when the brakes locked and the car stopped very abruptly.
We were lucky that nobody rear-ended us. We went to the dealer, and he said there
is nothing wrong with the brakes. Last week, my wife was driving the car on a street
at about 30mph, when she had to break and the same thing happened. In both cases, we didn't slam the brakes, yet they locked Did anybody
hear about such problems w/ the Sentra ?
By the way, on my truck it was a Horizontal control panel, not a clockwise panel.
Hope that helped
AHHHHHMy key is stuck in the ignition. What can I do to take the key out? please help out this newbie!
It's been a nice 4 1/2 year run, but it's time to move on. Hope everyone has better luck than we did. Good luck guys...we're zoom zooming outta here!
The Sandman :sick:
it could possibly be any of your belts depending on the sound. when does it happen, like does it happen when you do a sertain thing?
B: Go to the nearest car wash pay 75 cent to use th vaccum and suck it right out.">
Anyway, only bug is that the fog lights don't turn on, but I just don't have time to take it in. Dealer service is day only, and I work days like most of the world.
Other than that it's fine, gets the EPA mileage range of 28-32 and has enough power to get past semi-trucks and slowpokes in traffic. I don't care that it's not an "all new" design nor a rocket ship. It's 127 hp is what was called a "powerful" four banger in 1991. A 2.5L is more $ for gas, insurance, and payment.
my case it's as follows:
last saturday my mom trried to go to another city. from san diego to within the border of calexico. she used my car( the one with the title). half way the car automatically stop( it turned off by itself), and the temperature of the car went up( not until the top point, but more of the normal temperature). my mom could not start the car until a few minutes later( the famous check engine light turned on). she had to came back home. now when i took it to the mechanic on monday( did not move it for the weekend), he said that it was probably because i did not make the service for the car on time( tune up). he did all the service and all check the termostat( it was all creacky, burned). the light was off again and everything looked perfect.Now, yesterday my mom used the car again and before she entered the freeway, the check engine light turned on again and the car again turned off by it self , "again". i try to take the car with the mechanic this morning but he wasnot there, i am going to take tomorrow morning. now , this morning when i took the car to the mechanic, i wait a few minutes to let the car warm before going with the specialist. while parked , i felt like little jumping from the car( only when it's in parking shift, forgot my car is automatic).
another thing is that the stereo light( the one where you can see the station or the time)sometime it's on and sometimes it's off.
1)my question is , can this be one reason why the car it's stoping sometimes in the middle of nowhere(n the stereo light)
2)i also thought about the jumping thing from the car(only when it's in parking); does this mean i need to send it to a fuel injection cleaner( another mechanic i guess)
please some help? it will be very helfull to hear a second opinion from you guys before speding major quantities of money in thing that will probably won't need of would just leave the car in the same way it's right now.
see ya.