Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

seguy · May 2001

come with the pp in the U.S., ABS is optional. Good luck with your new car if the civic doesn't turn up.

kstephan · May 2001

Thanks for your feedback, but the thing is: I DO NOT want a replay of the Civic Si experience. The SE-R looks great and sounds like an awesome performer, but it's too flashy, and will attract attention and get challenged to races...mostly by punks in slammed Si's, probably. That's what I want to avoid. When I test drove it, I thought the SE's performance was similar to a stock Si, and the Sentra is a much more refined overall. A relatively anonymous but fun and quick car is what I want. The SE seems like a good bet. Sure, I'll wonder "what if?" whenever I see an SE-R, but I can live with that.

wazappa · May 2001

All of a sudden one day when I went to play a Cd my Cd player, it did not play and I got a flashing "ER" on the screen. I was wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this with their Cd player? I have a 2000 Sentra SE with Performance Package. Thanks in advance for your comments.

richcoff1 · May 2001

I recently took my sentra on a 500 mile trip when I noticed the ac started acting funny. About 1hr into the trip the ac would get warm then back to cold. The ac continued to do this until I stopped to rest for about 15 min. After stopping the ac was fine for about a half hour, then it started doing this again. The outside hemp was around 80* F. Has anyone else had this type of problem? I have not taken the car back to the dealer for this problem. TY

ratonlaveur · May 2001

I got the same problem, years ago in my NX2000... It seems that it's caused by a under-capacity A/C... The system is not big enough, run out of breath and then overload... I never get a fix on that...
Too bad Nissan doesn't seem having corrected that flaw!!!

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello Readers,
I may have a solution to your CD Player problems. From my experience, when the CD player flashes an "error" message, it is saying that it cannot read the information on the disk that you inserted. Two things come to mind:
1. The CD is inserted upside down...This is not likely, but it HAS happened to me in the past with my CD changer, when I inserted one disk out of 6 upside down. I didn't think that anyone was that dumb, but I sure was that time.

2. CD is dirty: This is the MOST LIKELY reason for the error code. The CD has to be pretty scratched up not to play, or it has finger prints and other foreign material on the playing surface.

CLEANING
1.Be careful with the cleaning process. Wipe the CD from the center to the end in a straight line. Please do not go around in a circle, or you will damage it.

2. Be sure not to wipe the disk if it is dry. This will scratch the surface. Use just plain water...no soap or anything else that will leave a residue. Take your time, and do not handle the disk by placing your fingers on the playing surface, or lying them down on either side. Always use the protective jacket to store them. I fuss at my teenagers all the time for the rough handling of their CD's. A scratch is permanent. Good luck.

As for the A/C problem, #655, on long trips the system may freeze up if the fan is operating at slow speed and the system set to full cold. The evaporator is icing up because the cold has no where to go. The unit has 2 settings...recirculate, and fresh. Recirculate takes the same air and cools it over and over again. It is good for gas mileage becuase the compressor works less and only removes the body heat of the passengers in the car since the last time the freon came into and out of the car. Air can get stale because it blocks the outside vents, and if you smoke, the next time the fan pulls the air through, it will give you air conditioned cigarette smoke...YUCK, not nice.

The solution is to run it in FRESH mode, which means that it takes in fresh air from the outside, and gets rid of stale air from inside the car. It also means that you burn a bit more fuel becuase the compressor will be "on" more of the time, but it should eliminate the icing up of the compressor. If all else fails, take it in for a R-134 freon capacity check. If the car is new, it should still be under warranty. My experience with the AC on my Sentra is that it is very cold and does not freeze up.

good luck,
GSEREP1

cgr45 · May 2001

Hello everyone. I've been a Nissan fan for years. I traded in my 88 200SX V6 to buy a 01 Honda Prelude SH. Well to make the story short the Prelude was stolen 4 weeks after I bought it. It's still missing. I really like the Prelude but, is a HONDA and you know what that means especially here in NJ. I'm really nervous about getting another one. I'm seriously thinking of getting a Sentra SE w/PP. I have a few questions. Maybe you guys can help me.

1. Comfort- How comfortable is this car? I'm a big guy. 6'2" 230lbs. I really don't want to feel trap in a car.

2. Performance - Does the engine have some snap to it or does it ever feel like is out of breath?

3. Price - How much did you guys pay for your cars? I looking for a SE w/PP fully loaded 5 spd.

4. Insurance - How much are you paying?

5. Reliability - Any problems with the car ever since you bought it?

Well, that's all I can think of right now. Again thanks for your answers. I really appreciate it.

Carlos

roninjouten · May 2001

before taxes should run you about 16.5 fully loaded. Basically invoice.

The performance is marginal and compared to a Prelude non-existant.

Interior room up front compared to a prelude is also gonna be tight.

They're pretty darn reliable as the engine is the same one for the past 10 years.

mdriver · May 2001

Why not get a Maxima, since thay are about the same price as a new Prelude and have more room than a Sentra? If you are over 6' and 200+ lbs., you won't be happy in the Sentra - very tight. Also consider an 02 Civic Si which comes out in a few months. That car will have a huge amount of room, almost minivan-like and 160HP. Oh yeah, I forgot, you don't want your car stolen again. Well forget the Si.

cgr45 · May 2001

That's very true. But, here's the deal. The Prelude was a lease. It was stolen 1 month and 4 days after I bought it. Now, I have spoken to my insurance about this and they said that I should get my down payment back. Is this true? I have spoken with some people that had their cars stolen and they said that that they did get their down payment back. I'm just thinking about the Sentra in a worse case scenario.

pat · May 2001

Someone here might know the answer to your question, but you also will probably find some good information on that subject over on our Finance, Warranty & Insurance Board. You can follow that link and look through the discussion list to see if there is an appropriate conversation already taking place - if not, feel free to start a new one.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

corkfish · May 2001

I agree that the new SE-R is to flashy/agressive. I have a 1993 SE-R that I bought ( in part ) because it offered adequate performance ( 0 to 60 in 7.4 seconds) in a plain jane package. Its 8 years old and despite my abuse has never given me a problem. It's been the best car I've ever owned. The new Spec V will probably do 0 to 60 in 6.7 to 6.9 and will have a 6 speed tranny that will also be used in the new 260 horsepower Maxima. If it can handle that kind of horsepower, it should be bulletproof in the sentra. I just wish they made it a little more subdued. If I wanted to look like a boy racer I'd get a Pontiac.
I need a new car and am torn between the new SE-R, WRX and the new 260 hp Maxima.

goonies · May 2001

hi everyone, just took the wife out to practice for her drivers license on my brand new sentra se w/ pp. everything was fine till she decides to hop a curb while turning. only one wheel went over, then we reversed it. my question is that now the steering wheel is off center by a lot, and was wondering if there could be some suspension damages. the car seems to drive straight except for the wheel not being straight, and there is no extra noticable steering wheel vibrations. do you think i could pass this off as a warranty fix. thanx for any info.

amancior · May 2001

Anyone have an idea what these two will run? I'm really looking at these as a possibility for my next car.

roninjouten · May 2001

Depends on who you talk to. Nissan fleet manager at a local dealership told me the Sentra Spec-V would be $1800 over the current SE and the SE-R would be about 1k over the SE.

Some people think the Spec V would be about 20k. I don't believe Nissan would be stupid enough to put an MSRP of 20k on a Sentra.

ineto6 · May 2001

a loaded Civic EX stickered over $18k so I would think Nissan can charge a premium for a high performance sedan.... yes, it might even overlap with the Altima's pricing. So my guess it around $18k, but we'll wait and see.

gewaltakt · May 2001

...i buy a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE w/ PP and manual tranny without test driving it? i'd be getting it from carsdirect.com. normally i would test drive it but in my situation i cant. the dealership in my town didnt have any sentras with the pp. they wont be getting any in with the pp for awhile too (i need a car pretty darn soon). they tried to do a dealer trade but nothing came up. i've done all the research and dont want anything else. i could get a mazda pro but i know as soon as i see a sentra with the pp i'm gonna get pissed. no dealers within a doable distance can get the car either. so now i'm stuck and i know i want this car, but i'd like to hear what ya'll have to say. please, anybody, tell me what you think of the car i described (if you have it of course). all help is appreciated. thanks!

gewaltakt · May 2001

also, engine revs a big thing with me, could someone who has a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE w/ the PP and a manual tranny please tell me how fast the engine revs at 70 mph in 5th gear? thanks again!

hkchan · May 2001

Have you driven one without the PP? No dealer within a doable distance can get a Protege ES either? Where do you live? I didn't think that was possible.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
I have been comparing prices on the Sentra SE 2.0 with the performance package. I want the car with an automatic transmission, in cabin micro filter, and floor mats. No sunroof, No ABS, and NO side air bags. I was told that in order to get the ABS/side air bags, I HAD to get the sunroof. That is ridiculous. I know most people WANT the sunroof, but SOME of us prefer NOT to have it.

Any help would be appreciated. My best price is 1155 below MSRP. MSRP as equipped is 17,056, and my best price is 15,901 + tax and license, making the final total $17,491. My worst price is 750 below MSRP. Holdback is 3% of the vehicle's MSRP, which in this case is about 510.00. Add that to any profit made on the difference between invoice and sale price, and it runs the gamut from as little as 800 dollars profit to as high as 1200 dollars profit when all is said and done.

Any ideas? I would appreciate some comments. I have to buy the car by Memorial Day at the very latest.

Thanks,
GSEREP1

hkchan · May 2001

Thanks for the information on the timing belt (another forum). Why are you considering the Sentra? Are you tired of inspecting/replacing the timing belt? Hehe.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
And thanks for asking. That is precisely why I want something a bit more trouble-free. I had my heart set on an Acura TL-Type S, and then reality set in with mandatory Premium fuel at $2.23 to $2.33 a gallon (right now)! I expect it to be much higher soon here in California.

My 18 year old wants my 2000 Beetle to go to college, so I am looking for something that gets good mileage, but not as slow as molasses like the new Honda Civic EX sedan. Must have been something wrong with the car I drove...what a TOAD. The horsepower is supposed to be 127 with the VTEC Engine, but the 125 hp Toyota Corolla had MUCH more spunk. PLUS,Honda is the only one of the cars that I looked at that still had a rubber timing belt. Even the Ford Focus with the 2.0L ZETEC engine has a timing chain. Honda should get with the program.

Anyway,I hope to find something by Memorial Day, or my teenager will evict me from my Beetle, and for the first time since I was 19, and just joining the Marine Corps, will I be without a set of wheels. The wife drives a 97 V8 Explorer, and I want something a bit more fuel conserving.

The SE.2.0 is just my speed. I still want to DRIVE the road...not go to sleep on it. The soft suspensions on the other cars would probably put me to sleep on my long haul from San Francisco to San Diego twice monthly.

Wish me luck, and answer soon!
GSEREP1

P.S. By the way...GSEREP stands for Ground Support Equipment Representative....I am a Technical Representative for Military Aviation equipment, and the 1 is fairly obvious, LOL!

Take Care!

hkchan · May 2001

I was wondering what gse meant. Now I know. With your previous experience, you should have no problem finding a deal. I've not tried it, but Priceline.com has a car-buying program (not nationwide but may be available in your area).

tjsen · May 2001

I have a 2000 SE 2.0 PP 5 speed. I'm pretty sure 70mph is 3100 rpm in 5th. I live in a very hilly area and it can hold cruise control at that speed on the interstate very easily. 3000rpm is where the torque starts to come on, above 4000rpm there is some snap (with max torque @ 4800rpm, max hp @ 6400rpm) Also, I have owned a car with 17 inch wheels (50 series tires) and it does not ride that stiff, but it is close. If you don't mind "feeling the road", you should be alright. Overall it is very quiet and drives like a much more expensive car.

gserep1 · May 2001

Thanks To hkchan and tjsen. I thought that I was making a good choice. I LOVE the 5 speed, but I haven't taught my daughters to drive a stick yet, and don't want them learning in MY new car. So I will settle for the automatic. I SHOULD get the stick and use that 800 bucks for the side air bags and ABS, but my family will accuse me of being "sexist". I have 5 daughters and a wife. I am the only guy in my house. RELAX...the oldest ones are all gone now, only the 18 years old left...for NOW. They always borrow my car, and I want to be nice. MAYBE I shouldn't be so nice, LOL.

Well, I have to make a decision by Memorial day, and I like either the Radium color, or the JADED green color. I hear that the AVALANCHE (Pearl White) is being discontinued, and only the cloud white (I call refrigerator white) will remain.

Yep, I have been around engines all of my 29 years in the Marine Corps, so I am shopping carefully for a car that I will be using for the next few years. I drive the "GRAPEVINE" while driving between San Diego and Vallejo California twice a month, so a "rocking chair" car would probably put me to sleep. Interstate 5 is my closest friend. I would be a rich man if I could have just a dollar for every trip I've made on it since 1972. Oh well, I guess that I am just showing my age.

These gasoline prices are ridiculous to say the least, and it certainly shaped my decision on which car to buy...although I am not looking for JUST mileage. I have had my share of Mustangs, Thunderbird Super Coupes, and SHO's in my hot rod days, and there was not a soft riding car amongst that fine bunch of cars. I may be getting old, but I refuse to drive soft cars.

Wish me luck, and thanks for the information, and good conversation.
GSEREP1

hkchan · May 2001

Not trying to get you to buy another car, but you do know the Protege ES has a $500 rebate and a free moon roof, right? And you can get it for around 1.5% under invoice with the S-Plan before the rebate. I doubt you qualify for the additional $400 "Recent College Grad" rebate yourself, but one of your kids may. Don't know if it makes sense to purchase the car in their name though.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
And THANKS again. I will give it a try, and NO, I don't qualify for the college grads program, and NO, my girls have the Beetle. This car is for me.

My sister has a 96 Protege with the old 1.5L engine and automatic transmission, and I am not sure if the engine is durable enough for me. They have had a few problems with that engine...most notably the heads and valves. The new engine should be much more powerful, with 500ccs' more.

Everything else is fine about it, but I have to have at least a 1.8L and it has to ride somewhat firm. I saw the new ES 2.0 with 4 wheel disc brakes, but I am still not sure that it has the power of the SENTRA. I am trying to get away from a sunroof. I have had quite a few, and they all gave me headaches after 2 years, with noise and leaking of rain. Plus the heat is much worse inside....extra air conditioner load due to lost insulation caused by the roof..NO thanks on the roof, but I WILL check out the Mazda Protege ES.2.0 I have heard a lot about a new unit called the MP3.

Strangely enough, I used to SELL Mazdas back in 1995 just after I got out of the Marine Corps fresh off Active Duty. My other sister also has an ES 1.8L with 5 speed stick( I sold her that car). It too has had it's share of problems, although now after 6 years only has about 80,000 miles. I just hope that the engines are more durable. She too had to have her valves and head replaced 2 years ago just before the 50,000 mile warranty expired. I am a bit leery of Mazda's engines. Maybe someone else can either attest to this, or can refute it. If anyone has a long life durability story on any 1996 to 2001 Mazda Protege 1.5 or 1.8L engine, I would be happy to hear from you.

Thanks,
GSEREP1

roninjouten · May 2001

Go to Pacific Nissan...talk to Bill Johns. If you're a member of Costco, mention it. He'll get you a Sentra exactly as you want it for only I believe either $100-200 over invoice. He's quite nice and will be a huge help...he'll find your car for you.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
And Thank you so much for the information. I DID go to Pacific Nissan, but unfortunately, I was met by the first guy on the lot...and it was NOT Bill Johns. It is probably a bit too late to talk to him now, but I will mention the COSTCO card to my sales associate. They have been trying to pin me down to a price, but I still walk out time and time again. I KNOW there is more money than what they are telling me. When I start mentioning the holdback..(which I KNOW that I will never get a part of), they start to balk about me even knowing about it.

The thing is, I am not desperate for a car right now, and they know it. They cannot get me all excited about a car at this point. I am taking my time, and I will do it when I am satisfied that I am getting a good deal. Besides, I would much rather deal with Pacific Nissan than any of the MOSSY stores. I have been "done in" by them once before, and I have NO desire to repeat the experience. NUFF SAID!

I must say that this forum is VERY enlightening, and I have learned so much from all of you. Thank you once again for being so nice!
GSEREP1

mayankhp · May 2001

To,
gserep1

I bought it on 4/22/01 for my daughter,at $16800. This is to just give you an idea about the final deal.

Thanks

roninjouten · May 2001

Forget about the sales guy you've got if he's not delivering. I met with Bill Johns once and he immediately told me the price I could get on a Sentra SE, loaded. I brought up Costco and he smiled widely and told me right off I'd get the near invoice price...I can't recall if it was 100 or 200 over invoice. I think 100 because with my college grad stuff the car would be about 300 under invoice.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
Thank you so much for your input. I am interested in that $16,800 you paid for your daughter's Sentra SE 2.0. Please tell me how it is equipped. I want the Performance Package and automatic transmission. I also want the In Cabin Micro Filter. What state are you in? I have my car MSRP'ed out at 17,056 as I have it described. My best price is 15,901 + tax and license. Here in California, 10% for tax and license works out to 1590.00, so that makes it 17,491.00 total out the door. That 16,800 you paid sounds great! I assume that is out the door right? I am jealous. Please fill me in.
Thanks,
GSEREP1

mayankhp · May 2001

I am here in Buena Park, So Ca, Zip 90620. As a matter of fact I was offered $16500 out the door, but it was little late by that time I already boughted it at 16800. I have no sunroof, no incabin micro filter, no side air bags, no abs, but I do have p/p and matts.

Microfilter is costing only $29, so no biggy. My suggestion is to buy on last day of the month, it is a day when dealers need to sale some pieces to get the monthly bonus based on their sales quota. Please put your inquiry on AutoNation, CarsDirect and other online car selling sites to get in touch with dealers and that way they will be in touch with you online, do not tell them that you are looking for month end deal. When time comes they will approach you to get this bonus.

Connell Nissan Costa Mesa, Long Beach Nissan are good places to get this kind of deal.
But again, to get a killer deal, you need to pick the right date otherwise no one was quoting me less than $17300. I bought it on 4/22 for 16800 (15300+10%) and then after four days, I got three offers on the same day (4/30) at 16500 out the door. You will be surprised to know that all those three dealers let me walked out very easily and stick to the price at 17300 to17500.

In short if you are at right dealership at right day who really want to earn bonus, he will make all kind of adjustments to get the deal through to enable earn bonus and offer a better deal than mine.

I hope this is a enough information on the subject.

If your doughter is graduating from college within 6 months or she is already graduated and still continue with the higher education like medical or legal then you need to knock down another $500 from NMAC being a student discount.

Thanks

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello again,
And THANKS!! AHHH the benefit of the computer age. Boy I have gotten all kinds of offers for cars these last few hours. Believe it or not, I got an offer for a DEMO Sentra in Avalanche (white diamond) color. This thing has 6000 + miles on it, and they said that they were WILLING to go down to 15,599 + tax and license...of course this is at a NO HAGGLE dealership. Then they call me back and said that they would reduce the price to 14999, (15000 in my book.) I did not bite. The clincher was the fact that the warranty started when the car was put into service, and I would lose the miles and the months off of my 36 month/36,000 mile warranty...NO THANKS.

The bottom-line is to NOT jump at the first offer you get. I am sure that I know where I need to be on the last day of the month. I already have my money, so I can make it a cash deal.

Thank you SO much for all of your help. I have yet another offer for a NEW vehicle for 15,600 + 10% for the same car WITH side air bags and ABS. That is another 600 dollars in value, and both items will help my insurance premium.

I will keep you posted.
Many Thanks again,
GSEREP1

roninjouten · May 2001

an SE with PP, AT, micro, ABS.

mayankhp · May 2001

I think 15600 plus tax and tag is the best deal. If I am at your place I would go for it. Such kind of deal never stays longer.

Please keep me posted about your buying process and deal.

Thanks

gserep1 · May 2001

Thank you so much,
I am inclined to agree with you on that part. I will be finalizing the deal as soon as I can get up to the dealership. My insurance company seems to like the Sentra, especially with the side air bags and ABS, which is a 600 dollar item. Well worth the extra cost for safety, not to mention the cost savings. That will be made up pretty quick.

I want to close this thing up pretty quick. To save money and get the car you want is worth the effort I took to shop. I am glad that I did. I would have given away better than 1000.00, because I would have settled for a car without the bags and ABS, and paid the same amount. I won't wait until the end of the month because the exact car I want may be gone....Times' a wastin',
Time to DRIVE!

Thanks again.
GSEREP1

djmax813 · May 2001

I've been offered both cars at $16,000 similarly equipped. Financing same also. Only real difference is 130 hp vs 145 hp, and better stereo on the Sentra. The thing is i am a current Honda owner and i trust their quality. Lookswise i do like the Pro better. I am sooooo confused! lol

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello,
I went to 2 Honda dealerships in the same day, and I had the worst experience of my life. In the first one, I had to give up my driver's license so that they could photocopy it before a test drive...a process that is more or less standard in car-jack happy California, but still one that I don't particularly like. THEN the guy comes back and hands me my license and then asks for my telephone number at home. I became upset and asked why he needed that. His response was, in case something happens to him on the road. OH I am sure if I hijacked the car, I would go straight home, and wait for the police. At this point I walked out. He could have done nothing worse to let me know how much he did not trust me. I drove in with a 1 year old VW Beetle. I HAD to come back and get my car, didn't I? This dealership advertises itself as the "high volume" dealership, and they were right. People were coming in left and right, and the sales associates were having a field day. Seems to me that their rationale was...if I didn't buy, there were plenty more who would. On my way out, I told this guy that he missed out on a good opportunity, and that I had cash...(which I did). He said "too bad, rules are rules" and he said "good luck, you won't find anyone cheaper than us". That is like saying that it was MY loss. I did a slow burn as I drove away. That was probably for the best considering how mad I was. I went home and called the store and spoke to a manager, who kept apologizing and offering to give me a "special deal", and a different salespersson if I came back in, BUT it had to be RIGHT then. Thanks, but NO thanks.

I must have really been a glutton for punishment that day..(I really wanted to drive the Honda to either include it in my survey, or reject it.) I went to ANOTHER Honda dealership, and was greeted by a very young "go getter" type, who wanted to know right away if I was gonna buy that night. He claimed that he wanted to "save time", because the store would be closing in about an hour, and he wanted to get a sale done before then. Imagine the NERVE of that guy. So I shut him down quickly and left the Honda store, NEVER to return again. Because of this gas crunch, and the fact that Hondas, DO get some of the best mileage around, the salespeople have gotten pretty callous, and cocky about their product. I told this jerk that I would be back WHEN he had more time for me, and would not buy according to his TIME SCHEDULE. He apologized profusely, but I suggested that he go back over the entire greeting scenario and see what he did wrong. Perhaps he would learn something from this. So HONDAS are OUT in my book. I am sure that they are not all this stupid, but I think about how some of these idiots ruin it for a lot of other people. NUFF SAID! It is the SENTRA SE for me.
GSEREP1

roninjouten · May 2001

Did you go to a honda dealer named after the Ocean near San Diego? Those guys are worst. Talk about pushy.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello roninjouten,
YES, that is EXACTLY the dealer in question. I fell hook, line, and sinker for the big ads screaming value, and quality, and selection. It did not take me long to find out the real truth. Let the buyer beware. The one in El Cajon was not very much better. The Honda sales tactics are enough to keep me from ever buying a Honda product. I WILL however admit to liking the ACURA line of Honda products, but I was not hassled at those places. Premium fuel in any car is not something I want to buy now, considering how much I drive.

Good luck to you.
GSEREP1

roninjouten · May 2001

I thought the Sentra SE demands it too? Regardless, with gas costing $2 a gallon here and premium running 2.20, there's not a huge difference anymore. Imagine if they kept the premium percentage wise as high as it was years ago? Unleaded used to be a $1 and premium 1.30. If the gas guys charged that same rate, you'd be looking at $2.60 for premium.

hkchan · May 2001

It depends on how you look at it. The % difference is less but the absolute difference is the "same". If it used to cost you $500 a year using regular or $600 using premium, now it costs you $1,000 using regular or $1,100 using premium.

roninjouten · May 2001

difference to me between 500 and 600 v. 1000-1100. Guess it's all a matter of perspective.

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello Again,
Last I heard, all of these cars use grade 87 regular. Yes, and though it is true that there is only a few pennies difference between 87 and 92, it has not always been just a few pennies. Premium has usually averaged 20 cents a gallon more than regular. Don't blink your eyes, but that trend will soon be back... with a VENGEANCE. Here in San Diego, parts of the city has regular priced at 2.05, mid grade at 2.17, and premium at 2.33. Those were the highest amounts that I have seen so far. In that scenario, there is a 28 cent spread between one extreme and the other. Maybe the gas companies will reduce the differential between regular and premium for a while, (and that is only to make you not feel so bad about buying the stuff because the numbers are temporarily so close together),but I guarantee that it will be short-lived. Premium fuel will always cost quite a bit more than regular.

Have you seen the incentives designed to get rid of these "premium swilling" vehicles lately? A good example would be 0.0% interest on ALL Lincolns for a limited time. If they can unload the Navigators and L/S before the gas REALLY goes up, the consumer will be stuck with them. All of the finance charges that you save will be used to pay the increase in gasoline costs. Imagine.... by summer gasoline is SUPPOSED to reach $3.00 per gallon here, and premium for $3.17. 30 gallons times 3.17 is HOW MUCH??? 90 to 95.00??? Gee whiz, how many hours does someone have to work to earn enough to buy a tank of gas in one of these big behemoths?

Good luck to all of us...we will NEED it this summer.
GSEREP1

roninjouten · May 2001

But 30 gallons at 3 dollars is still $90. So What's 5 bucks more if you're blowing 90 already? That's not even a premium really. If the price difference remains 20 cents, premium becomes more attractive the pricey gas becomes. It's just like intro-lux cars. Remember when 35k bought you a Lexus LS400! Now spending 30k on a car isn't crazy as the average price for normal midsize is 22-25k, so the 30-35k on an intro-lux model BMW or 27k on an A4 is downright reasonable.

kstephan · May 2001

Please tell me it takes regular unleaded. I'm pretty sure I heard it doesn't require premium; it was a factor in my decision to buy the car. I pick up my radium SE w/PP and all the other goodies tomorrow. I'm very excited...I really think I'm going to like the Sentra better than the stolen Civic Si it replaces. It's a lot more car for the money, I think, and the real-world performance difference just isn't that great.

I'll never find out driving it, so does anyone know the top speed on the SE? Does it have a speed limiter?

mayankhp · May 2001

In fact I got my first speeding ticket on Brand new sentra. It dose not have any speed limiter. This car runs like an air, driver will not notice the speed unless he look at the dash. I was thinking that I am on mid 40 mph but cop said I was on 54, and issued me a prize for thinking that I owner and others are tracepacers to the road.

What do you have on your new car? and how much did you pay (out the door price) on your new rocket?

thanks

gserep1 · May 2001

Hello People,
The owners manual says 87 octane regular fuel on the Sentra. Premium would be a waste of time, as the computer has the engine "optimized" for the regular stuff. If it pings on 87, you have poor quality gas, and the knock sensors will retard the timing 10 degrees.

I don't know if the car has a speed sensor, but I would suspect that it does. Most new cars do. I don't want to be brave enough to see what the top end is. My driving record has been clear for a long time---let's not mess that up. I am waiting for a road test to give me that kind of information.

I think that the manual transmission car should have a higher top end. Most computer controlled cars have an upper limit as far as road speed goes. One is to protect the engine and transmission, and the other is to protect the driver. Sometimes it depends on the type of tire that you have. I would not want to go 140 miles per hour on tires designed for 112. GM and Ford are famous for putting a speed sensor to match the rating of the tires on the vehicle...example: S rated tires, maximum 112 mph, like the Ford Explorer. H rated tires, 130, V rated tires 149 mph, Z rated above 149, and W rated ..up to 168 mph. These are all pretty fast speeds in my book, and is definitely enough to get you a night in jail here in sunny California.
When that top speed is reached, the computer electronically turns off the fuel until speed drops, and then fuel automatically comes back on again at a predetermined speed.

I like the automatic. I just want pulling power when going over mountains like the Grapevine, just out of Los Angeles, or the Truckee Pass on my way to Reno. Nevada. I am sure that the Sentra is more than enough car to handle these mere hills. That is more than I can say about a Honda Civic....(Boy that would take quite a while longer with that car).

By the way, I received a FORMAL Apology from that unnamed Honda dealer here in San Diego. They were really concerned that I got treated so bad.... but of course it didn't matter, because I already got the Sentra now. Their loss, my gain.

Thanks again,

GSEREP1

bschemm · May 2001

i was just wondering what were some ideas you have about when would be the best time to shift for best acceleration/not beating up the engine. the owners manual said something like 15, 25, 40, 45 for the se, i think. but i dont think that would have very good pickup. so if you could tell me what you have played with and find to be the best it would be greatly appreciated.

Nissan Sentra 2006 and earlier

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