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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    If you go to the IIHS site and look up the DC tests, you will see the picture of the leaking tank.If you look closely at the enlarged version, you will see that the tank is removed and tipped at what appears to be a 45 degree angle to show the leak area. They stated that the flange that leaked is on the TOP of the tank. Unless the laws of physics change liquid cannot flow uphill! So the tank could only leak under the following conditions: 1. Full tank (including filler neck) and a 40 mile per hour crash. Just pulling out of a gas station or within 20 miles of a fillup. 2. 40 mile per hour crash with van on its side or roof. And remember in the first test it did not leak. The government mandates that on a rollover crash no fuel should leak. Let them make the decision. You should not top off your tank if you are worried until this is resolved.
  • mcbrideg1mcbrideg1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Grand Caravan Sport. Occasionally, during driving the service engine soon light comes on for a few miles then goes right back out. It may not happen again for a week or two. I just had a MAP sensor, belt tensioner, and a fuel sending unit put in it. Van only has 54K on it and runs great. Anyone else out there had an problems with a periodic service engine soon light?

    Brooks
  • odd1odd1 Member Posts: 227
    I suggest you look up capillary(sp?) action in a physics text to understand how liquid can flow upward. Additionally, if the van turns on side in an accident you are at a 90 degree angle. Two ounces a minute add up pretty fast if you're injured and cannot free yourself or others in the vehicle.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    You must have flunked Physics, look up capillary in the dictionary. Can you explain what happened to the 2000 Honda Odyssey shown in copartfinder.com?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Ya got to do what you got to do.
    Carleton1 says: door armrests, Triple Zone Temperature Control, Trip Computer
    Door armrests-- I'm so sick of hearing about those stupid arm rests. If that's all it's got going for it than buy it. As far as they go I drove a 01 and at 6'3" and the back tilted as I like it all they are goof for is to look at, since I sit back to far to do any good. Triple Zone, Odyssey has dual zone, our Caddy STS had temp control for both front passengers and we kept it on the same temp. Advertising gimmick. Trip computer, what a joke, I have never seen one that tells accurately what's going on. Now to me a trip computer tells me where to turn, how far to my destination, directions, where to cash my check, get gas, eat, hospitals in case I'm in an accident with a DC van and it catches on fire and a host of other important things. Now thats a real trip computer.
  • odd1odd1 Member Posts: 227
    not a dictionary. It is capillary action; not capillary. It is the principle used when you get a blood test and they fill those little tubes/straws off the droplets of blood they force to the surface of the skin without any suction.

    Sorry, I don't have a physics transcript for you I CLEP-ed out

    Carlton1 - Aren't you getting an '02 Odyssey?
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    use their navigation systems to help them locate the Odyssey topics?
  • odd1odd1 Member Posts: 227
    You have a great post in #753. Without the fuel leak this van rated only marginal in safety. Everyone is concentrating on the fuel leak and ignoring overall score. It takes the addition of side airbags to bring it up to acceptable.

    Is there anyway to speed up safety findings? Seven years before they recalled a steering wheel that could separate in an accident? How many of these vans are still on the road seven years later? I don't think NHTSA will act quickly on the pre-July '01 D/C vans due to how critical IIHS is of the NHTSA testing. Personally I look at the two test as complementary.
  • cgaydoscgaydos Member Posts: 116
    dmathews3 -- yes, I get tired of seeing the same features repeated in posts almost every day. But I disagree that the temp control and trip computer are gimmicks. Depends on your situation. Like many couples, my wife and I prefer widely different temp settings. She'll even put turn the heated seats on the high setting on a warm day, while I will use the low setting only rarely. For us, the dual zone is a nice feature. The kids get a third setting, which prevents having kids on the left from freezing while the right side kids roast.

    Is this feature essential? Of course not. But it's the sort of feature that you get used to and want in your next car. Same with the trip computer. I admittedly don't use the computer functions that much except for compass, outside temp, and distance-to-empty, but I do use the others occasionally and would miss them if they weren't there. In fact, I miss the user-programmable computer functions I had on my BMW in Germany 10 years ago.

    Now padded armrests and suede-backed seats are meaningless to me. But steering wheel radio controls are another gimmick I love. My last car had them as part of a package. They turned out to be so useful I put them on the "must" list of options for the minivan. And the DC minivan implementation is just outstanding ... within a day or so you're perusing your cd changer without taking hands off the wheel or eyes off the road.

    Another gimmick that's nice to have is memory seating, a fact I realize whenever a mechanic or car wash attendant screws up my seat position in my non-memory seat car.

    The automatic rear hatch? The jury's still out on that ... we used it a lot, but not clear if I'd cry over it if my next minivan didn't have it. The removable console? Jury's also out on that .. it's very well designed, and nice to have the flexibility of removing it for cargo or rear access.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Pertaining to the attraction of liquids in narrow tubes to above normal levels..NARROW as in a blood pipette, NOT a 2 1/2 inch fuel filler tube. TRY it some time. You still flunk Physics! Stick to trying to find out why the 2000 Odyssey caught fire and burned up in the collision on the site I mentioned earlier!
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Hayneldan,


    Instead of being involved in a collision, perhaps the owner of that Odyssey did something even more dangerous like parking out in the sun too long.


    Honda Odyssey spontaneous combustion theory

  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Let's get back onto topic here....which is "Dodge/Plymouth/Chrylser minivan problems".

    Thanks,
    Drew
    Host
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  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    steve_ "MY2001+ Chrysler Voyager/Dodge Caravan" Aug 29, 2001 6:52pm

    Steve
    Host
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  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    The cruise control on our 97 Dodge with 84K went out the other day.

    At start up, the cruise light comes on in the dash, and goes out. The "on" botton does not turn the cruise on. I checked in the owner's manual. There is no separate or combined fuse or relay for cruise control. Or is there one and I missed it? I checked the electrical connection and the vaccum lines to the Cruise control unit, and did not find anything unusual.

    Does anyone have any idea what is wrong, or where I can start looking at.

    Although we still like the look, the room, I am thinking that it is a shame that Chrysler is incapable of making more a reliable van.

    With 83K miles, we have gone thru belt tensioner, trans. selonoid pack, water pump, and a starter. Knock on wood, transmission has been holding up OK.
  • joycemartin16joycemartin16 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 SE GC and have nothing but problems with the passenger sliding door. Anyone else had problems? Our dealer seems incapable of fixing it. Thanks!
  • odd1odd1 Member Posts: 227
    I was referring to the cracked parts not the filler tube. It is pretty obvious the internal combustion using gasoline as a fuel would have never even got started if that was the case.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Fluids cannot be attracted to a tube (pipette) or crack unless they are touching it. If the tank is not full, and the gasket is at the top of the tank, it CANNOT HAPPEN! Honda trolls should stick to things they understand like disapearing third seats,like my 1969 Chrysler Town and Country had.
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    hayneldan and odd1,

    You guys have been on this issue for way toooo long. But anyhow, I think the real issue is not that of liquid, but of vapor. A chemical reaction is partially driven by surface area, a substance in vapor form has much more surface area than a liquid or solid. With that said, capillary action or not, the real danger would be in released vapor, not as much as the liquid itself. (Why do you think it's dangerous to have a flame source near your gas filling hole?)
    As for the flamed kiss Odyssey, who knows? Could have ran into a gas tanker, faulty wiring, etc..? (I've seen weirder things happen before.) With this logic, I apply it to the DC vans too.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Check out the Sept 2001 issue of Popular Mechanics. It shows the differences between the IIHS and NHTSB tests, and why the ratings are different.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    The flange in question is maybe 3 1/2- 4 inches across. If it cracked all the way across, and the crack were 1/128th wide, it gives an area of .0135 square inches. Do the math!
  • kcercekcerce Member Posts: 6
    jodar96 - it sounds like you own my 97 grand voyager! Same exact problems, just in different order. I think the cruise control problem is related to a connection between your steering wheel and your steering hub. I believe there is a spring connector that connects the functions on the steering wheel to the hub. I had this problem because the cruise, horn and air bag did not work. The repair cost $190.00.

    I have just had my water pump, belt tensioner and belt replaced for just under $400. WOWWW! That hurt! How much was your repair?

    Never again will I buy a Chrysler.
  • DTKWOKDTKWOK Member Posts: 131
    Wow, do I sense some hostile feelings? I just meant to clear up some of your (and odd1's) arguments, not to pass judgement on this whole DC crash test thing. As for the area, yes it seems small, but do you know what conditions (i.e. quanitity, density, temp) free vapors will or will not ignite (I sure don't)? The study of open area fluid flow (as opposed to constrained flow - flow in pipes, Reynolds number) is not perfected by the way, so I don't think there is any "math to do", per se. (The biggest area of open flow is done in wind tunnels to find drag coefficients, and for nozzle/diverger design for jet propulsion, btw.) So given the miniscule crack as stated in your message, would you dare light a match (or even have anything remotely "hot") in the vicinity? Some say yes, some say no, who's right? It's your guess I suppose.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    .0135 sounds like about the orifice size of my propane torch and produces a good hot flame due to some pressure on the fuel side.
  • PoppaPoppa Member Posts: 7
    We own a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport and a 2001 Mazda MPV. I was fairly happy with the GC but after a year of MPV ownership and not once having brought it in for anything other than an oil change, I think back to the many times and multiple visits to my dealership's inept service department to repair loose interior panels, defective speakers, broken locks, and other assorted rattles, and I realize that my expectations were so low, that anything short of a transmission blowing up was acceptable.
    The reason I'm writing though is to warn those contemplating protecting their purchase with a DC extended warranty service contract. We bought one but when I learned nine days after the 60 day cancellation period was up, that the one service manager who actually cared, quit, I decided to cancel the contract. DC, took close to 25% of the $1272 I paid as a penalty (even though it was a 7 year contract and we were still covered under the new car warranty), but when I called to complain, I encountered 20 minute hold times and the most arrogant people I have ever dealt with anywhere.
    I have run customer service departments and my goal was to always try to please the customer. These guys have either sold DC shares short, or they have no respect for us because we actually purchased their products.
    After many years of buying Chrysler products in my family from my Dad's 1964 Dodge Polara 500 to this van, we're done with these clowns. I'd rather walk than buy another DC product.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Where is the fuel filter on the 1990 long wheelbase vans with 3.3 liter engine? Is changing it a do-it-yourself job or does it require special tools or a hoist?
  • cgaydoscgaydos Member Posts: 116
    Problems & issues to date:

    - Had the air bag warning light problem. They've ordered a part to fix it.
    - Still having crackling noises with the left front strut area. We unfortunately got one of the minivans that had the steering arm recall from April, and it looks like the recall wasn't applied correctly. They will look at it again when the air bag light part comes in.
    - Left sliding door making noises ... looks to me like chain needs lubrication.
    - Fuel usage is a disappointment. It's about 1-2 MPG less than our old '94 T & C w/ AWD. My guess is that the "efficiencies" with the new 3.8L engine and the improved aerodynamics are outweighed, literally, by the additional vehicle weight. However, I've never seen the real mileage differ this much from EPA estimates, so wonder if something else is wrong???
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Lee: The fuel filter should be underneath the body at the right rear near the fuel tank. You will need a way to get the rear up, such as maintenance ramps and be able to loosen the filter bracket bolt and a screwdriver for the fuel line clamps. Haynes manual recommends opening the gas cap to relieve tank pressure and grounding a fuel injector to relieve fuel line pressure (no more than 5 seconds however). In any case be careful of fire hazzard when the fuel line is loosened from the filter and have a rag to catch the fuel that leaks. When I did this I opened the fuel filler cap but did not ground the injector, instead waited 2 or 3 hours after driving to allow pressure to decline. Roy
  • dave210dave210 Member Posts: 242
    I too was shocked with the disappointing mileage, but that was in my 1996 LXi. My 2001 Limited around town gets about 15 miles to the gallon, which is exactly what I got for 5 years in the '96 LXi.

    But I even asked the guys at Chrysler when I had the '96 if I had a fuel problem, because it was such worse mileage compared to the previous 1988 Grand Voyager. All they said was that it was normal and they couldn't really do anything about it.

    So if you're getting around 14-15 mpg, don't be too shocked. I guess after Chrysler switched from the 1984-1995 vans to the now 1996- ? vans, mileage was not one of the areas they decided to improve on.
  • cgaydoscgaydos Member Posts: 116
    Makes sense to me ... good to see it confirmed by others.

    And yes, referring to an earlier post you made, I've decided that there is a lot less usable room in the cargo area. Slightly more room from the top of the seat on down, but much, much less cargo room above the top of the seat.
  • dave210dave210 Member Posts: 242
    As I said before, my '88 Grand Voyager had much more usable space behind the third seat because of the boxy setup trunk opening.

    The '96 van was great in that it had more shoulder room up front, and much bigger windows all around, yet the very curvy setup of the rear cargo area left something to be desired.

    Plus, the rear air compressor was moved to the passenger side of the already crowded cargo area of the 1996 vans. That was because the rear air compressor in the 1988-1995 vans was behind the driver in the middle row. But in the '96 vans, they had to find a new place to put the rear air compressor, since the new driver side sliding door took up its old place.

    And now I have my 2001 van that is VERY similar in many ways to my 1996 van since Chrysler didn't change too much. My new van isn't all the different to my 1996 van in terms of cargo space or looks, but I will say the power lift gate motor in the cargo area does take out more usable space that I even had in my 1996 van.

    Not to go too far into my rant :-) , but I find it amazing that Chrysler can keep on increasing the lengths of the vans, the widths of the vans, the luxury of the vans, etc., but can't seem to increase the real cargo area behind the third seat in terms of cubic feet. It just keeps on shrinking and shrinking. Oh well, I've come to terms with the fact that it can't carry a bike behind the third seat without folding the seat down and scratching the top half of the cargo area. At least my '96 and '01 van had and have more passenger room and luxury features than my '88 van. Although, my '88 beat both in terms of 3rd row cargo...BUT I think I've already gone over that one enough today :-)
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    My consumption range is as follows, for a 3.8l GC Sport:

    Worst (in winter, city stop and go): 16 mpg.
    Usual City: 20 mpg.
    Usual highway: 24 mpg.
    High speed driving (>85 mph, with AC and loaded): 19 mpg
    Best (at 55 mph, with AC and light load: 27 mpg.

    (all figures approximate)
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    FWIW, my fuel economy figures also seem to be the same as yours, about 23 mpg at best on a long trip with a fair amount of highway driving. Since I do a lot of uphill driving, my average fuel economy is mostly about 15 mpg. The interesting thing is that on the same routes with courtesy vans, model years '97-'01, that I have driven (for the ones equipped with either the 3.0L or 3.3L V6) the fuel economy is only slightly better.


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • dmcdonoughdmcdonough Member Posts: 1
    We bought our 2000 Grand Caravan used with only 3,500 miles. We love this van, but the brakes started a "grinding" noise at about 6,000 miles. We first mentioned it to the dealer at 7,500, and officially began a trail of repairs at 10,000 miles. We are now at 16,000 miles, and it has not been fixed (we keep being told they "can't find anything wrong." Finally on the 5th service visit my husband insisted on being along for the test drive, and the mechanic heard the noise. Still, they "can't find anything wrong."

    We have requested an arbitration hearing under the California lemon law, and it's scheduled for Tuesday morning (Sept 11th). I'm looking for info from others who have suffered through similar problems, to give me some background before the hearing.

    ANY assistance would be appreciated. Please, point me to this or any other website that might have consumer comments on this subject.

    As time is running out, please feel free to write directly to: z1x1us@yahoo.com.

    Thanks so much for your help!
  • cgaydoscgaydos Member Posts: 116
    Sometimes a problem like this is made overly complex due to ignorant service people at the dealership. Which dealer are you using? Have you tried others?

    If you're in the South SF Bay area, you might consider calling on Dannick's in Sunnyvale. They've built a solid business for years working primarily on DC minivans, *and* they'll give you the straight scoop when the dealer will not.
  • shirttales1shirttales1 Member Posts: 1
    HI,

    Bought a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan EX in July. Didn't notice anything on the test drive, nice features, nice van. Out on the road later I noticed a jerking motion whenever the van would shift into overdrive around 45 mph and would continue (not as noticeable) at higher speeds as well, almost like the engine was skipping or like driving a stick shift too slow for the gear you're in. I was told by the dealer I had a torque converter/computer problem that might fix itself after a 5,000 mile break-in. 5,000 miles came with the problem still there. The dealer consulted Chrysler and replaced the torque converter and pump. When I picked the van up the mechanic said the same symptoms were still there but to drive it and see if I noticed any improvement. None noticed, now the dealer is supposedly consulting the regional service manager for advice. Anybody out there with a similar problem? Advice?
  • tc99ownertc99owner Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone else had this problem yet? I need to replace our front calipers due to a caliper piston starting to crumble. I discovered its not metal, but a form of phenolic plastic.

    Our 99 T&C with about 43,000 miles on it started to make a few warning sounds from the front brakes... peeking into the wheel showed the pads were fairly warn. Well, I guess 43k on a set of front pads is acceptable.

    I bought a new set of pads, disassembled and removed the rotors. They were fairly rusty,had some groves etc, and new ones were $17, so I just splurged for new.

    During cleanup I removed the old pads after squeezing the piston back into the caliper. I had kept the old pad there to prevent the c-clamp from leaving marks on the piston. I was surprised when I removed the old pad on the passenger side, and saw that some of the edge of the piston was cracked and rusted away....??? I pressed on the damaged section with my finger, and more pieces came away in my fingers. Never having a plastic piston, I did not know what to make of it.

    After some research, I found that these are "new technology" phenolic pistons. I called the local Chrysler dealer and discovered that replacements would be identical.

    Oh, yes, by the way, since we have more than 36,000 miles on the van, I get to pay for new calipers that are identical to the ones that crumbled after 43,000 miles. To be fair, only one side is crumbling, the other one is fine, but I intend to replace both as a pair.
  • carleton1carleton1 Member Posts: 560
    If you went 43,000 miles on a set of front pads, that is MUCH BETTER than the service our NEW Volvo gave us when we had to replace the Right Rear Disc Rotor at 29,600 miles.
    That was just one of many problems. When the rear seals of both axles started leaking oil at 45,000 miles we felt we had endured enough of the "Reliability" of our foreign made car and traded it off.
    We have had far better reliability with GM, Ford and DC than we had with either Volvo or Volkswagen or my sister had with Nissan. Parts and Labor also much less expensive with vehicles from the "Big 3".
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    For what it's worth, my '94 Grand Voyager LE AWD's front calipers have been replaced twice; like yours one side went, both both sides were replaced together for symmetry. First time was three years ago, and the second time was two months ago, when the rotors/pads were also replaced. According to the technican, the caliper was starting to stick causing it to wear the pad prematurely, and causing the rotor to heat up/wear unnecessarily. This happened the last time as well, which is why I thought it was odd. In any case, the pads were covered under the warranty for this case, but the calipers were not. Since they have been replaced once already, they took off the labour charge for that item after I squawked.


    Drew
    Host
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  • coolwhite_wecoolwhite_we Member Posts: 7
    I have a '97 Grand Caravan 3.8 and have noticed that when I fill up and remove the gas cap there is no vacuum. This has been the case for some time and I actually don't remember if it ever had it. On my other car it's there. Is the vacuum there for the rest of you? Do I potentially have a fuel system leak? By the way I have checked for possible DTCs but all is clear.

    Tom
  • iceclifficecliff Member Posts: 3
    I have a '97 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.8 with 75,600 mi. on it . The other day two intake manifold bolts snapped on start up causing coolant to leak into the combustion chamber. There was of indication of corrosion on the bolts and one of the holes had to be helicoiled. Repair bill: $500.00. Other repairs necessary after the 3/36 warranty expired: Driver side power window track and motor replaced; water pump replaced; oxygen sensor replaced. Items now needing repair: Airbag light on; horn not operating; intermittent check engine light, possibly another oxygen sensor.

    I swore off buying Ford products after our '87 Aerostar. I have now sworn off buying Chrysler products.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Our Caravan had a leaky selonoid pack that was replaced at 53K at $380. Now, I see transmission fluid on garage floor again, and it appears it is dripping from back of the pan. On the last leak, the dealer said that it leaked at selonoid pack and dripped rearward.

    At 84K, if it is selonoid pack AGAIN, does anyone know if I can force Chrysler or the dealer to pay for it this time. It is annoying when the same component goes bad twice. At $25K, I expected much better realibility. Our old 89 Mazda MPV with 155K never gave us any trouble.
  • petersburg100petersburg100 Member Posts: 29
    I just purchased a 2002 Voyager, which has a slight 2100 rpm vibration problem. What is the current status of the 2100 rpm problem? Can it be fixed? Has DC issued any instructions to dealers how to fix it? I would very much appreciate any response.
  • engr2go1engr2go1 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1998 Grand Caravan. On occasion while driving with the air on cold vent, and/or A/C, the heat will come on. The selector will still remain on cold but it will put out heat.

    Is it possible that a drink will have spilled into the temp selector slide?

    Has anybody else seen this?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Is it possible that a drink will have spilled into the temp selector slide?
    Yes it's possible, and most likely one of us Odyssey owners did it while it was parked with the door unlocked.
  • hannah10hannah10 Member Posts: 11
    Anybody else think this is perhaps the least reliable car ever built in history? Anyone ever had to replace thier gas tank due to leaks? Every year but one the aircon has failed due to a number of problems. Starter moter replaced twice, alternator problems, horrible brake problems it is endless. I've put an average of $1750 per year into repairs into this dog since I bought it.
  • veritasveritas Member Posts: 17
    I'm not 100% certain about the 96 and later models, but my 92 Dodge GC had this problem and it turned out to be a plastic vacuum valve body in the heat-a/c system that had sprung a leak, so that even on moderate acceleration my vent or a/c would switch to heat until I let up on the gas a bit.

    The dealer was doing some other work for me when I told him about it, so they replaced the valve body in just a few minutes and only charged me five bucks for the part. But it was beginning to do it again (two years after the first fix) at the time I traded it off on a 99 Limited last May.

    The later models have replaced most of the slider controls with rotary dials, but I'll bet they are still using that vacuum system to open and close the little doors within the system.

    This method of control has always been a weak spot with Chrysler Corp. products. I had a 1973 Dodge Royal Sportsman full-sized van back in 1973 and was climbing the grade from Cheyenne to Laramie, WY on I-80 one cold morning. At that altitude, the vacuum system wasn't up to the task and each time I pushed hard enough on the gas to maintain my speed, the system switched from heat to a/c! I had to stop periodically and let the heater warm up the inside before resuming my trek.

    So you may have a bad valve body or a vacuum hose off or cracked or such.
  • jelbertsjelberts Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager. I just had to replace the fuel rail. The part from the dealer cost $125.00. The dealer told me normally the part was almost $400.00, but this part may become part of a recall due to fuel leaking. I was wondering if anyone has heard of this part being recalled?
  • ynkeefn1ynkeefn1 Member Posts: 1
    I can't wait until I get rid of this piece of junk! The tranny was out at 20,000 miles. A new head gasket at 50,000 miles. Constant brake problems. Incessant A/C problems. The list goes on. Not to mention, weird noises when the brakes are applied.
    Come on! I pay $25k for a van and I get nothing but a headache? I WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER DODGE PRODUCT!!!!
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    1990 3.3l Grand Voyager. Just had major tuneup: plugs, wires, throttle body service, and oxygen sensor. It has made four 200 mile (non-stop) trips since the tuneup plus around town driving and seemed fine. Last Sunday, it stalled after the 200 mile trip and would not start (cranked fine.) It started up about 30 minutes later and has run fine around town since. I'm a little concerned about the next 200 mile trip (when the kid comes home from college.) Fuel filter has never been replaced. Could that have caused the stalling?
  • carleton1carleton1 Member Posts: 560
    Sorry you got a lemon. Our 99 GC has 34,500 miles with ZERO problems. My experience is the same as the many satisfied DC owners I know.
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