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Chevy Express/GMC Savana

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Comments

  • amiles1amiles1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 chevy 1500 conversion van which I am having audio problems with when the vehicle is first started the factory systems sounds fine then few seconds later the sound goes down to a whisper and sound is only coming out of the passenger front and rear speakers at a whisper could someone give me an idea of what could be wrong is it a problem with my head unit or does the van have a factory amp that may be malfunction any help would be much appreciated
    thank you
  • eandlcubedeandlcubed Member Posts: 78
    Well, I went ahead and bought a used '07 Express over a Sprinter because it costs 12k less. Can't fight the math :).

    Anyway, does anyone here know if the emblems in the rear and on the front door have position holes behind them. I would like to remove them but don't want to expose any holes in the van.

    oh, to answer my own question regarding the swapping of bench seats...it seems the second and third row benches are similar in track length so maybe they are switchable.
  • adis8066adis8066 Member Posts: 3
    As far as i know, all emblems around the vehicle are using very strong double sided tape instead of pin mounted like the old days.
    It is not easy to remove them, you should heat it up using a heat gun (not hair blower) to solften the adhesive at the back of the emblem, then peel it off gradually. Most of the time, it will left behind the residue on the vehicle, you can use glue remover to remove it.
    Body shop has a set of tool just for removing emblems before sanding the body of vehicles. For removing the glue residue, they're using a rubber wheel (they claimed it is made of air craft tire's rubber) attach to power drill, & spin the wheel against the glue area until it is cleaned; it won't damage or scratch the surface.
    You can buy these tools at your local body shop supplier. ;)
  • taker442taker442 Member Posts: 2
    I am having trouble reading my 01 van computer.
    When I plug the code reader in it tells my it can not access the computer. Any ideas?
    There is something wrong the van because I do get a light but I can not read what it is.

    Thanks
  • 6xadad6xadad Member Posts: 2
    No, the second row seat doesn't fit into the third or fourth row slots. The 2008 Express has as standard equipment center shoulder belts for every bench.
  • eandlcubedeandlcubed Member Posts: 78
    Are you sure? I asked my Chevy dealer and they said the only new features that they know of are: standard curtain airbags for the passenger version and tweaked-up engines. He is not sure on the shoulder belts for all seats. Where did you find this info? I would be very bumped if it were true since I was, for the long time, torn between buying an Express or a Sprinter. I settled with a slightly used Express because of the huge price difference between the two.

    You also said the second row wouldn't fit into the third row. I haven't got the time to actually remove these two benches to try them out. From just looking at the legs and latches, they seem to match up pretty well. Have you actually try them out? Another bump for me since I thought I could try a junk yard or actually buying new to get the extra shoulder belt and two child LATCHes :( Thanks
  • eandlcubedeandlcubed Member Posts: 78
    I had the opportunity to really check out my '07 Sprinter and found that most of the interior trims don't seem to fit tightly and have big gaps. I took it back to the dealer and they said that is the way it was built. I know it is a workhorse but the quality seems so inferior. For instance, the area around the belt holders on the headliner doesn't seem to attach to anything. I keep pushing it up hoping it would click onto something but no. The plastic trim around the lower glass in the rearmost bench has huge gap between it and the glass. I could see some sort of attachment of the window glass but the trim, again, does not seem to click onto anchor. Lots of 'give.' The bench floor anchors don't seem secure (the pins that say L and R) but I am sure they are. Plus all mine anchors look rusty or very reddish in color. Let me know what yours are like since it is hard to get hold of another passenger express for comparison. Thanks
  • johnscjohnsc Member Posts: 14
    The only difference I can think of is the passenger side shoulder strap that allows you to get by the first row. I didn't really examine it that well. You could probably rig a middle shoulder harness by attaching it to the top seat frame. I think they didn't have one for the third seat because the seat in front would be soft? Or just carry 11 people instead of 12, or whatever it carries.

    I had a Dodge 97 and it was a nightmare. The Sprinter looks ok, but like you said, it is over 10k more. And has that small V6. Not sure how well that is going to hold up. But the 22 mpg is impressive.

    This is my second Chevy Van, the fisrt was a 2000, this on is a 2006 3500 passenger.

    Just make sure your tires are properly inflated when hauling that many people and you are good to go. 85 in the back and 55 in the front. Van's and SUVs can roll over when the tires are low. (especially the extended van)
  • johnscjohnsc Member Posts: 14
    Did you mean your 07 Express? I have the 06 passenger, which is the exact same. I thing the he trim is fine, but I know what you are talking about. I just took mine apart to install speakers, run wires, etc. All the trim pieces snap in and out. It's like that on all the SUVs, even a hummer. Most of the peices have a small clamp so you have to be careful to line it up. But that back one is loose at one end. Doesn't bother me. The side panels and doors all have insulation. IMO you get the most bang for the buck with the passenger van. I wouldn't want to add all that in to a cargo van.

    I had the same issue with the seat belts when I disconnect them from the seats. I did manage to push some of them in to the slot. Or you can purchase a screwdriver to disconect them from the ceiling.

    As far as the pins. No mine aren't rusty at all. One of them had a slight vibration when going over a bump, but that could be fixed by using a small wedge or something. I'm pleased with the ease of removing the seats, instead of having to use a bolt mount. Maybe the dealer should offer you non rusted latches if you bought it new? If not they should be cheep, if they bother you. Or paint them. My seats had a slight amount of rust but I got mine used and it doesn't bother me. They must have been taken out and left in a storage unit.

    It's not perfect for me either. I wish the seats folded down flat. There was more room in the front leg wells, and the drivers seat wasn't so close to the side.

    I would like to keep comparing notes with the rest of you.

    So far I'm getting 15 mpg with the AC, city and highway. I hope it goes up a little, but that's a little better than my 2000. And the V6 Dodge only got about 16 or 17. The other much smaller SUVs only get about 15 - 17 also.
  • johnscjohnsc Member Posts: 14
    About your seat belt. You could order the second row harness from the dealership in the parts department. They can look it up for you with your VIN number. Should be reasonable. I don't think you will find it at a salvage yard, but good luck. It appears to be attached to the top seat frame (duh!). But you would have to also attach the other end at the bottom. The second row has a bolt, so you would need to order the strap as well. Then bolt it on. I don't have the third seat at my house (already put that in soreage) But I'll bet they are the exact same seats. There is already a slit down at the bottom. You can also pull the fabric out from the plastic, but I would try and cut a small vertical slit in the fabric then bolt on the strap and sow it back up. The top part has a star screw so you will need to buy that scewdriver from an auto parts place. (the GMC one) I'll bet it just bolts on to the top frame, but you should take apart the second row one to make sure, before cutting into the third row. (to take apart that top seat belt plastic housing, start with the small plastic around the stap, there is a star screw inside, then the the rest of the casing staps off and you should be able to see how it attaches to the top seat frame.

    Good luck!

    (edit: I just took another look at the bottom fabric and you don't have to cut it. That plastic cove pulls right off and back on)

    (Also, about the Sprinter. That van has a higher profile and will get blown around by the wind. The 3500 Chevy doesn't get blown around like all the other vans I have owned. Finally! That really bothered me most about driving a van and I even put bigger tires and heavy duty gas shocks on my 2500 Chevy, which helped, but nothing like the new 3500.)
  • johnscjohnsc Member Posts: 14
    I think the Chevy Van build quality is very good. I also had a Toyota way back, and I remember the steering rods needed to be replaced, where the joits (AV joints or something like that) had warn down. The Chevy has a grease housing around these joints where as the Toyota and Dodge didn't. I rememeber I could always hear them squeaking in the Toyota and nothing you could do other than spraying them with WD40. The Chevy Express 2000 and 2006 also had galvanized bolts holding a lot of parts together in the foot wells, at the bottom of the doors, and other inside outside places, where as the Dodge and Toyota had ones that rusted in no time flat. The Toyota's AC broke, curze control, and a lot of other little things. The Dodge was just a nightmare from day one. The Chevy 2000 2500 had only a few minor problems with the door locks, one of the doors wasn't hung right and another back latch broke, and the gas gage broke, and it may have developed a slight leak in the radiator, I had to add about a half gallon a year at the end, and should have had it checked (make sure to keep it filled! And change it at about 35,000 miles if you need to.) But that was it, and I didn't even have any of this repaired.

    I hope the 06 Express holds up as well or better.
  • eandlcubedeandlcubed Member Posts: 78
    oops. i meant my '07 Express. I still felt bad for not having enough dough for the Sprinter so it is always in back of my mind.

    Thanks for all everyone's suggestions ...
  • bcmalibu99lsbcmalibu99ls Member Posts: 625
    Hi! Does anyone know if GM is going to install engines with valve deactivation on Express? It can really help highway mileage.
  • eandlcubedeandlcubed Member Posts: 78
    Does anyone have an '08 Express or Savana 12 passengers. I want to know whether the four-person bench can be split. The picture on Chevy website seems to show some sort of line down the middle of the four-person bench but there is no description anywhere on the 'splitability" or "foldable" of this bench. Thanks
  • indyrtindyrt Member Posts: 2
    It comes and goes. In summer, when cold, it would start and stall. Each time it would run longer. I could feather it to get it running better...When I tried to drive it, same... wanted to stall... I feathered it. Went away when warm. Then, it vanished for a while.
    IT's back and it's way colder and now it fires for a second and stalls. Can't get it going now....... ?????????

    R/T
  • newsie23newsie23 Member Posts: 17
    I don't think the seat can be split! I am looking for '01 -02 LT or SLT center row buckets, if they will fit the floor brackets - my dealer cannot determine if the attachment is workable! (Someone, please help) These seats recline (not fold flat) and would allow plywood to be carried vertically between the seats! I have already installed floor brackets and belts for a '4th row' in my 8 passenger to carry plywood on top of the seats, but it is 'mickey mouse'.
  • ryanmcirishryanmcirish Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I'm working on a 2004 Chevy Express 3500, and the instrument panel gauges have died. When the car starts up, the arrows wiggle a little, and the alternator gauge goes to normal, then they all quit. the panel still lights up, and shows the prnd, but no little underline bar to tell you what gear you're in, and the odometer is no longer adding miles. The check gauges light comes on, but I have yet to find the problem. All fuses, both under the seat and in the engine, look good. Is there a connection in the dashboard or something that might be loose? they are obviously getting power, just not functioning right, or poorly. An item that may or may not be related, is the reverse lights on the rear aren't turning on, and quit at the same time as the gauges. Thanks, Ryan
  • goodwrenchdoggoodwrenchdog Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 2500 cargo van with 400,472 miles on a 5.0L motor. At times it wont accelerate and has a bad hesitation. Then out of no where it runs great! Installed new plugs, wires, pcv, rotor, cap, tps, fuel filter, and checked timing chain. It is putting out over 50psi of fuel pressure. I pulled wires with it running and noticed that one time when it was doing this the whole left side of the motor wasn't firing, but then it was great. Might it be the injectors?
  • momto7momto7 Member Posts: 1
    Now I know I'm a woman but give me a break...the instructions on how to remove the right taillight cover to replace the bulb are ridiculous! I have the nuts removed and can barely pull the assembly to clear the studs but now I'm supposed to "turn the side assembly on the outboard side, releasing the upper clip". I have been pulling and wrenching that thing in all different directions and it isn't budging an inch!! Can someone give me a clue as to what I need to do before I just break it open.
    Thanks, BJ
  • krcossinkrcossin Member Posts: 3
    I just replaced my 2001 Express LT tail lights. You have to remove the molding piece above the tail light also in order to remove the tail light itself. I know I used a socket & wrench (forgot what size) and a phillips screw driver.
  • pqqkie1003pqqkie1003 Member Posts: 1
    OK, First let's say, I KNOW THE VAN IS OLD. I get that, but it is Beautiful. Runs, Drives, and still NO rust. And to add to it PAID FOR...
    Now here is the question. Does anyone know if there is a recall on the cargo doors, on the side. The hinges....
    They have rusted out. Believe that, the rest of the van is not one spot, yet the hinges are gone.
    And the price to replace them is absolute outragious.. 115.00 for 1 hinge. NOT one whole hinge, you know body side and door side. NO that is 115.00 for just the door side hinge. And the pins and bushings, 83.00 for 2 pins. What a joke. GM KNOWS THIS IS A PROBLEM!!!! And you can't buy these hinges at an auto parts store, why, because there is NO aftermarket for it. GM won't allow it. So think about that for just one minute.. there are 8 hinges (2 doors, upper, lower hinges, both have 2 door side, and body side) and 4 pins and bushings. so that is minimum
    115.00 x 8 = $920.00 (all 8 hinges)
    83.00 x 2 = $116,00 (for all 4 pins and bushings)
    __________________
    $ 1,036.00 To fix 2 doors on your van..... OUTRAGIOUS!!!!!! :mad:

    And only GM sell the hinges, so MONOPOLY time.
    Now I know I am not the only one that has had problems with these doors, so is there anyone else out there that knows if there is possibably a recall of these door hinges.

    Oh, and most of you are thinking , hey go to a junk yard. I have tried-- These van are so good I guess ,that junk yards don't have any yet, or when they do get them, they cut the hinges in half, because on of GM's better ideas was in 96, to weld the dang things on, instead of bolts.. So too hard to just take them off, so they cut them right thru the hinge...
    I just think it is time GM steps up and corrects one of there better ideas.... :confuse:

    The rest of the van, I love.... 197,000 and still going strong... pretty bad when the hinges go before the engine.. LOLOLOL ;)
  • sparky640_1sparky640_1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Savanna 2500 cargo and a 2002 Express 2500 cargo for service trucks.Both are good drivers,13 mpg no matter how I drive.Fuel gauge very innacurate,and inconsistent.I think it is the venting.Have your mechanic check the cap and rotor.Mine have been replaced 3 times between the 2 trucks due to corrosion maybe condensation from engine heat and cold weather.The mechanic couldnt find the problem so I did.Similar symptoms with power in cold and wet weather.Also have LR tail/stop lamp problems.The dealer says it is the turn signal switch/lever.Almost $500 to fix.Anyone else have that?
  • eddiesvaneddiesvan Member Posts: 2
    same question as #548 what is the trick to getting to spark plugs in gmc savana v8 van what all has to be removed to get to plugs? van is 2000 yr model these plugs are hard to get to im changing originals to bosch hoping for little better mileage also changing everything message 548 is??? hope someone can help !Im disabled and retired changing plumbing work van to fishing van
  • 2vanman22vanman2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '08 Express 12 passenger. The two three passenger benches are the same and will swap between those two locations. There are shoulder belts for the middle occupant. The rear seat has belts for four people with only the two on the outside receiving a shoulder belt. I also read another person is wondering if the rear seats are split, yes they are.

    I just bought this three weeks ago used. Last week I took my first trip to the lumber yard. That is when I discovered that the seat backs are not hinged to lay flat. If you want a flat surface you need to remove the seats. This is my first full size van so I'm still learning a few things as my father-in-law who is an old dog in the full sized van scene says this is true with all makes. To me I would think that for a few pennys that GM could offer a lot mor flexibility to the van with some hinges.
  • ffrrggyyffrrggyy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Savana. What is the "hump" behind the passenger seat?

    I bought this vehicle new and believe I used to just slide bags in behind the drivers seat. I also used to have passengers on the bench behind the front passenger seat who could put their feet flat on the floor. Last summer when trying to slide something in I noticed an elevation on the floor behind the passenger seat. It seems to have gotten higher. I took it to the dealer I bought it at (no longer in business) and to a Goodyear place when getting tires. Both acknowledged the bump and claim they have never seen something like that before. From underneath they say it is above the catalytic converter but there is no bump up that they can see from there.

    Yesterday I took it to a different dealer for an oil change as an excuse to see what their service would be like. They tell me it belongs there. Then how come I didn't notice it when I got it? Do all of them really have this hump and I was completely oblivious to it until recently or am I just being blown off?
  • vramos11vramos11 Member Posts: 1
    drddinky,

    About those stop lights: I had to replace the left socket due to a bad ground. This is a manufacturing defect that the NJ state DMV asked GM to issue a recall on. GM refused. The inspection employes all know about rake light problems in these vans for certain years. Mine's an '01.

    Water gets into the socket and corrodes the connection for the ground or other contacts. There is electrical tape wrapped around the six sockets on the rear of the truck. It was a make-do fix for a known problem. Again, tape was only on wires where they enter the socket.

    Three long waits through the inspection lines to find and fix this problem. Kudos to GM for ignoring a real headache for GM express owners!
  • tech3363tech3363 Member Posts: 2
    You dont change any sensors until the go bad, when they do the check eng light will come on and will have a code set. As fare as the brakes are concerned, sounds to me like the rotors or drums are warped creating pulstation felt in the steering wheel. Have the rotors and or drums machined when you do the brake service.
  • gpturnergpturner Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 Chevy Express Basically the exact same van that exact same bump has bothered me from day one. It has always been there and is supposed to be ....sorry
  • gpturnergpturner Member Posts: 3
    I also like the way the seats detach but hate the rattle. I am thinking of coating the bottom the the seat brackets that fit in the hole with some of that tool coating.

    I have a 2007 chevy express witht the 6.0 and carefully monitor the milage so far (28,000 Miles) I am getting 14-14.5 MPG on the open road and 12-13 in the city. I would be interested what others are getting and if the Milage goes up as the engine braks in.
  • jodyzjodyz Member Posts: 1
    I'm in the same boat...did you ever find a grille guard?
  • mathusalummathusalum Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Express with a 5.0 engine. It started missing and has a slight "clicking" noise. Took it to a shop, they said it needed two injectors. Purchased two, then they said it needed all eight. Purchased them. After $ 855.00 it does the same thing and the mechanics now say that a cyclinder is "washed out". I think I got ripped. Anyway, is it possible that the ecu can be causing the problem? Had a complete tune up to no avail. It doesn't knock, doesn't burn oil, does not smoke, but just appears to miss on one or two of the cyclinders. The miss is constant and consistant. Any suggestions?

    Thanks!
  • jgarnaasjgarnaas Member Posts: 13
    Have you had the vehicle hooked up to a diagnostic machine at a shop to see if any engine trouble codes appear? you can also buy the diagnostic units cheaply and check for yourself to see any engine trouble codes.
  • swinnyoswinnyo Member Posts: 1
    Dude-have someone competent check the wiring harness near the front upper A frame-they have had many issues w/symptoms that match yours
  • amsoil314802amsoil314802 Member Posts: 2
    my company van would not start. few minutes later van started. took to nearest garage and noticed SECURITY light was on dash. garage owner said key and/or key ignition cylinder is worn so computer thinks i'm trying to steal van so computer cuts off fuel injectors. went to dealership but their computers were down so i could not get new key. took a chance with backup key. later that evening van would not start AT ALL and i was stranded. got tow back to house. later installed NEW ignition key cylinder AND NEW key cut from van VIN code from dealership. turned key to run position and let sit for at least 20 minutes so computer could re-calibrate to new key/cylinder. van starts up and runs fine. hope that helps!
  • agoodfloorguyagoodfloorguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 chevy 3500 van. I've had it about 2 years, since shortly after I bought it it has slipped going into 3rd gear. Now it smells like the transmission fluid is burning and it sometimes will not shift out of 1st. Could someone plz give me an idea what this could be? Thank you.
  • llocasciollocascio Member Posts: 1
    swinnyo - do you have more information on this wiring issue and is it the same for a 2002 Savana van. I have similar issues and want to check this wiring while I am checking everything else.

    Thanks
  • gmjohngmjohn Member Posts: 1
    I'm interested in towing my 4000 pound boat with a 2008 or 2009 Chevy express. I just wondering if anyone tows with this van and how do you like the van for towing? Does the 5.3 liter engine develop enough torque to pull 4000 lbs?

    Thanks
    gmjohn
  • eddiesvaneddiesvan Member Posts: 2
    I have pulled my boat 18 ft bass boat with my 2000 gmc savanna work van loaded with plumbing tools v8 , no problems I usually travel from birmingham to guntersville approx 55 miles and across small mountains rest of ride is flat van has over 100 grand on it now.I now pull boat with 92 ford ranger pick up 6 cyl
  • cabledogrg11cabledogrg11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy Express 3500. 5 months ago I started having issues where I would have to turn the vehicle over 2-3 times before it would start. Coming back from vacation I let the Van sit for 5 weeks and could not get it started. The vehicle runs fine once started, Idles fine, no issues, but takes 3-6 times to start now, and have had to get a new battery or charge the old to keep cranking. I am wondering what would be the first thing to look at. The last time I had to wiggle the (inside the motor) fuse box and it cranked right up. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

    Rick
    Pensacola, Fla.
  • zoybergzoyberg Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a 1999 express van with the 5.7 V8. While driving at speeds over 40 mph the motor is starting to stumble - will hold/increase speed but does it under minor protest. Any help would be nice.

    I'm thinking fuel pump (only have 50psi - should be 65ish?)
    180,000 miles with new plugs, wire, cap, rotor, oil change, air filter, and fuel filter
  • atlantarebatlantareb Member Posts: 7
    You posted your message over two years ago and it helped me. Thank you. I too replaced the fuel pump . . . and the fuel regulator and was thinking about the fuel injectors. You are right--that mass air flow sensor does make a difference--it needs to be clean and just spraying alone won't do it. On the can of CRC MAS cleaner they say don't touch it, but you have to--just very, very gently with a sharpened erasure sprayed with cleaner and periodically wiped on a clean cloth. The center of each hair-thin wire looks like a very small resistor. The side that was dirty on each was the side facing the air flow. The engine side of the wire/resisters looked clean. I got out my magnifying glass to check it out. Thanks again. I haven't read about this anywhere else.
  • zoybergzoyberg Member Posts: 2
    I have a express van with the 5.7 V8 that is giving me 3 check engine codes

    P0161 - o2 heater bank 2 sensor 2 (which side - o2 after cat?)

    P0300 - misfire (Will low fuel pressure cause this one?)

    P0420 Cat. efficient low on Bank 1 (what should I check?)

    Which side would bank 1 and bank 2 be? I have replaced both of the O2 sensors on the passenger side last year.
  • ronwindronwind Member Posts: 1
    Are these two vans the same product off the line excpet for the name plate?

    Great forum here!

    Thanks!

    RonWind
  • 1320jon1320jon Member Posts: 18
    Zoyberg, I dont think your fp is your problem. 50 is actually normal. 58-63 is the book amount I think, but virtually all the ones I ve checked are 50-54 running.

    I believ its the difference between key on and running with vacuum pulling the fp down alittle.

    Since you did plugs and wires, thats probably the problem. Put cheap copper plugs in again, and check the wires carefully. The hesitation is undoubtably a mis causing your nisfire code. The bank 2 sensor 2 should be the passenger side rear (after cat) o2 sensor. My scanners can watch each o2 sensor seperatly to verify the operating condition.

    The 420 code, has me stumped, other then a lazy o2 (rear drivers) or a bad cat itself. If you have plugged cats, that could cause your mis, the exhuast not being able to get out, thus causing a huge back up in the cylinder. Ussually they get progressively worse till the cat is completely closed and the veh will not run, or just barely. I would suspect the cats, maybe more if you towed with it, and or it has a lot of miles.

    Ronwind: Yes the gmc and chevy express are the same vehicle with different name plates. Some say the gmc's are built better, and I always laughed at that, but just recently I compared an 04 express to my 03 savana. The savana does have some bolts holdng small trim peices on were the express does not, and it uses a spring clip. So it does infact look like the gmc maybe built a tinny bit better.

    The grills and trims are different but all the major parts interchange, and many of teh van parts interchange with the chevy/gnc trucks also, like the 1500's and 2500's.

    Most of the van parts are left overs from previous year truck builds. The vans get the left over stuff.

    The 04 express awd, I just referenced is almost done......I put on larger combustion chamber heads, a mls head gasket, head studs, a z06 vette cam, a cummins intercooler, and ballbearing pt 72 turbo. It should make in the middle 500awh area soon.
  • daddio_bartmandaddio_bartman Member Posts: 1
    2005 AWD Express Explorer Conversion with Tow package, 5.3L AWD.

    I tow a 30ft I/O Pontoon most weekends May thru September, 25 to 30 miles each way. You really know it is there mostly at 50MPH+. From a stop you hardly notice. When I first tested a similar tow vehicle it had a 5.7L and was much better at the 50MPH+ speeds. Start/Stops were equal.

    Hope that helps.
  • cjoliboiscjolibois Member Posts: 1
    right turn signal works good thenwhen i put brake on turn signal speeds up, ??? how do I fix
  • 1320jon1320jon Member Posts: 18
    you got me on the turn signal....it would look at the bulb, the wiring and teh grounds near the tail lights first.

    The reason they fall on there face at 50 + mph is power and gear ratio. The 4l60e takes a huge jump from 2nd to 3rd. 3rd is 1 to 1, and if you dont have the tow package you have 3.42 gears. Tow package vans got the 3.73's. A huge improvement is to reprogram the pcm for different/later shifting. Hold second longer and have it shift to 3rd at a higher rpm/speed. This could be done only when towing via programming but would be harder then just having it do it all the time.

    When I bought mine, I reprogrammed it the next day.......and I still tweak it alittle when time permits. Alot of my job is programming trucks for tire/gear changes, and doing dyno/road tuning on gm cars (vettes, ta's and camaros) which are all virtually the same as the van.
  • phalphal Member Posts: 1
    Did they make a 3500 Express 4x4 Diesel?
    If so, what years were then available?
    thanks...gary
  • wikingerwikinger Member Posts: 6
    Good day, I live in Germany and drive a Chevrolet Express Year: 97.Ich have the following problem:
    If I'm driven for some time, then my speedometer needle is hanging and is very snatch. Where should I search for the error?
  • sashdavesashdave Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone help me out with the recharging of my airconditioning? I've jumped on compressor clutch while adding freon.It just does'nt seem to be getting anycolder. The big line coming out of condenser is forming ice on it. Any ideas?
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