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Oldsmobile Alero

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Comments

  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    The sound I typically associate with a worn wheel bearing is a shrill whine or humming sound which increases in pitch as you accelerate. We've had to replace two front wheel bearings, and I can't recall hearing a "pop" sound with either of them, just that whine/hum. Also, it starts out fairly quiet, but as time passes, it keeps getting louder and louder.
  • jimboujimbou Member Posts: 1
    Check the cv joints, I had same problem and replaced the half shafts. Problem solved

    jimbou :)
  • carfun888carfun888 Member Posts: 25
    My 2000 GLS is in the dealer for exactly this issue. It took 15 minutes of driving before I could demonstrate to the tech that it was happening. They have had the car for 2 days and are trying to get it to slip for an ext warranty rep. My ext warranty runs out in 2 weeks so I'm crossing fingers they can. The tech seems to feel it is an issue with the first gear. 56000 miles.
  • pipbpipb Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2002 alero. The hazard switch need to be replaced. Took it to a garage and was told that you must remove the dashboard. Anyone done that before. How to proceed..?
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    I think there is a recall on this. I know my daughters 2001 Alero got a recall for it, and I haven't yet responded because I don't want them tearing apart the dash.
    With Oldsmobile no longer around, I'm not sure who you bring it to. My recall notice sent me to a Chevy dealer 30 miles away. Kinda dumb when there are several GM dealers in the local area. I would check with a local dealer that was
    Oldsmobile and see what they say about the recall.

    DC
  • dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    Have any of you bought tires online? I'm considering do that for my daughters 2001. The origanal Goodyears are beat at 25,000 miles. I've read good reviews about Tirerack.com, but haven't decided on a tire yet. Any thoughts?

    DC
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    There was a recall on this. We took our Alero to our local GM service centre, and they replaced the hazard switch free of charge. GM still services our car, even though Oldsmobile is no longer around. As I recall, the notice directed us to another Oldsmobile dealer in the area, but we've always gone to this other service centre; they honoured the recall and did the replacement. Here's an article you can refer to: GM recalls 783,000 cars to replace hazard switch
  • pipbpipb Member Posts: 2
    HI DC,

    Thanks. I will check this out with the local dealer.

    pipb
  • htownpaulhtownpaul Member Posts: 3
    Same here. My wife's 2000 alero is having this problem. It's at a dealer right now for other problems but looks like it's not gonna be a cheap fix. Of course the extended warranty ran out 2 weeks ago, go figure.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Be sure and let us know what they find and the cost. Dealer usually replaces the ignition switch for a few hundred bucks to solve this problem.
  • rlmartingcrlmartingc Member Posts: 2
    as far as your HVAC it is a Blower motor resistor i have a 2003 alero and it went out in mine, GOOD LUCK, it is a pain to change it is under the glove box behind the blower motor
  • rlmartingcrlmartingc Member Posts: 2
    I need help finding good mods for my 2003 alero i find it hard to sup up cause it is 2.2 and not the 6 cylinder can someone help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might want to stop by the Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board.
  • carfun888carfun888 Member Posts: 25
    UPDATE.

    The dealer tore apart the trannie and found damage. Something about a clutch plate starting to fail. Anyway to the guy who posted the original message your transmission is on its way out. The dealer is replacing mine under my extended warranty. The service tech gave my old transmission maybe 6 to 12 months before it failed totally.
  • joknichjoknich Member Posts: 2
    Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what was done to correct it, the warning lights for ABS, Traction Control, Brakes, and Service Vehicle soon all come on. We have had it in twice now to fix this issue and its happened again. This is what they told me they fixed , WIRING AND/OR CONNECTOR - BRAKE SYSTEM/TRACTION CONTROL , the last time and before that HARNESS, WHEEL SPEED SENSOR JUMPER WIRING (ABS) - REAR - B,
  • sailinstud420sailinstud420 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a used alero (2000) 2.4 liter, this car has the same problem you are describing, so the guy is willing to sell it really cheap (that is why I am intersted) I was wondering if you could tell me a little more about this problem and possibly the costs involved in fixing it. I was looking at buying this car, trying to resolve the issue and selling it again for alot more $$$. Is this a computer problem in the car or just a matter of nuts and bolts and a new sensor? Also, does the abs then not actually function, or does the light just go on? Please tell me as much as you know about it, anyone else please feel free to contribute as well!! Thanks.
  • i2munknwni2munknwn Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Alero (81,000) has been making this sound off and on for the past year. The sound is like a clunking sound. It happens after turning and accelerating and also when accelerating from standstill without turning. The 2 dealerships I have taken it to cannot replicate the problem. First time, a Pontiac dealership said pads were worn and replaced them... problem seemed to disappear for awhile. Came back. Back to the same Pontiac delarership... somehow me explaining to the "service advisor," that it clunks when i turn, turned into the mechanic hearing it clunks when i drive over a bumps. So front struts and mounts were replaced. After I drove away from the dealership, within 5 minutes the noise occured again. It happended 2 times on the way back. The mechanic rode with me, but it didn't happen again. A few months go by... seemed to have disappeared. Then 2 weeks ago, when raining and 2 other people in the car, it happened constantly after turning and accelerating and accelerating in a straight line. A friend who has never experienced it was scared. After a week of not driving it, took it to a Chevrolet dealership 3 blocks me. They could not replicate the problem. I also had mentioned to them that with just sitting in the car while running, turning the wheel left or right, there was a faint sound and feel when the wheel is turned back to the center. I didn't know if i was opening a new can of worns or trying to be helpful. They diagnosed that as being worn steering gear and worn intermedant shaft... quote $1600. They said since they could not replicate the noise/ clunk I was talking about, they couldn't say if spending the $1600 would fix it. After leavingt he Chevy dealership it did it down the road... has been doing it daily, but not every turn or accleration. It's not just the clunking sound, you can feel it in the body. My front passenger can feel and hear it. You don't feel it in the steering wheel. I've read previous posts that had mentioned the struts, which were replaced for about $1200 (the car now feels more substantial over uneven roads). Could it be the CV joints? Anyone have any ideas. Oh, there's an Olds dealership which is much further away then the rest, that'll probably end up taking it to.
  • deputylynchdeputylynch Member Posts: 1
    I had to replace the ignition switch and tumbler on a 2001 Olds Alero and now the car will not start and the security light is on!

    How do I reset the system to recongize the new switch???

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    There are several posts a few pages back addressing security issues; if you do a search for "security" in this forum, you'll find lots of posts addressing this problem. Reading some of those posts, I have a feeling you may have to take it in and have a service centre reset the system. Here's what our owner's manual says about the Passlock system:

    If the engine stalls and the SECURITY light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart the engine. Remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts.

    If the engine is running and the SECURITY light comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you turn the engine off. However, your Passlock system is not working properly and must be serviced by your dealer. Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this time. You may also want to check the fuse. See your dealer for service.
  • wantabeetlewantabeetle Member Posts: 8
    My 2000 Alero (3.4L V6, 98,500mi) is acting strange. While I was driving with the cruise set on 72, the RPM gauge went from around 2500 to less than 1000, and the cruise shut off (obviously). When I pressed the accelerator, absolutely nothing happened. At first I thought the transmission had slipped or something, but the engine didn't rev up (and the RPM gauge needle didn't move) when I pressed the gas pedal. The car was completely unresponsive, but the engine did not shut off. No warning lights came on at all. So, as I am gradually slowing down, I pulled to the side of the road. I decided to try the gas pedal one more time (after pressing it several times to no avail), and the car decided that it wanted to go. I was able to accelerate like nothing had happened. Then after about 30 miles, it did it again, several more times. On the third time, I slowed to a complete stop, and the engine died this time. It took 3 tries to get it to crank. I went a few more miles, and the engine felt like it was misfiring or something (it was really rough). The car died again, and I had to sit there for a few minutes before it would crank again.

    Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how'd you fix it? I've had several mechanics tell me that it was really weird that the engine did not shut off (or at least shut off right away...it only shut off on me twice, but I had to pull to the side of the road about 6 times total). Could it be electrical or fuel related? Thanks!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    My first place to look would be at the fuel pump/filter. The symptoms you describe are classic signs of an electric pump that is starting to fail.
  • wantabeetlewantabeetle Member Posts: 8
    thanks bunches! I'll check into that.
  • waarmstrwaarmstr Member Posts: 1
    I'm having some of the same problems with my Olds Alero 2001 3.4L 100K (just turned). It lost power twice during one trip, but never died. Then on a second trip a week later it stalled. Both times I was going about 70 down the highway. Wasn't trying to pass or do anything else out of the ordinary. I changed the plugs/wires, and used a couple bottles of STP fuel injector cleaner, plus some gas cleaner. Now (3 weeks later) it won't start. I can hear the fuel pump engage (small hum under the back seat) and I have over half a tank of gas.

    My current thoughts are (in order):
    - Clogged filter
    - Clogged fuel injectors

    Just curious if you've already resolved this issue and what the problem ended up being.

    Since I made it through the spark plug change without any problems I was going to try and fix this on my own... Changing the filter first (attempting to start), then changing the fuel injectors if that didn't work.

    Thanks,
    ~andrew
  • joknichjoknich Member Posts: 2
    They replaced the main computer now and a month later, the lights all just came on again. So back into the garage it goes this will be the 4th time.
  • tgeorge2tgeorge2 Member Posts: 10
    My daughter has a 03 Alero with the same problem.. a "clunking" sound from the passenger front corner of the car. She lives a considerable distance away and will be coming home soon for a short visit and has asked me to figure out the problem. I need your input...you have tried a number of "fixes" but, have you been able to determine the root of the problem? HELP!!!
  • billywjr73billywjr73 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2002 Alero GLS 4 cyl with about 77K miles. A couple of weeks ago I stopped at the store and when I returned it wouldn't start. It just kept spinning over. I had it towed to a mechanics shop that day, Saturday, and he wasn't going to be able to get to it until Monday. When he went out to look at it Monday morning, it started up just fine. Well, now it is doing it again. It runs great and there are no problems at all with it (except this, obviously). When it does this, there are no hints beforehand as all the gauges work fine and it runs like a top. Any ideas... please help!
  • tgeorge2tgeorge2 Member Posts: 10
    When applying the brakes on our 2003-low mileage Alero, there seems to be a "groan" coming from the passenger front wheel area. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be and how to fix the problem?
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    This sounds like a possible brake problem, but if it's only intermittent--say, it happens only first thing in the morning--then it's probably a "normal" sound. But if it happens all the time, then you might want to get your brakes checked out. Here's a page that outlines some of these sounds: Disc Brake Noises

    Here's another service bulletin which goes into various brake noises (squeaks, squeals, clunks or groans). It's for Nissan, but should apply to most other makes and models, too: Nissan Brake Noises
  • i2munknwni2munknwn Member Posts: 3
    I am far from being a mechanic. Still having the problem and have not determined the cause. I did take it to another place, a Firestone- Mastercare place for a "complete vehicle inspection" for $20. They said they were able to re- create the sound/ "pulsation/vibration". They said nothing about the steering gear that the Chevy dealership thought it might be but couldn't guarantee. Firestone thought it could be the wheel bearings or some part of the transaxle, but said that they thought the wheel bearings seemed FINE. They quoted $500 for both but couldn't guarantee that it would fix it. I did not have them replaced. Oddly, since having the car back for the past few days it hasn't occured when turning, but now only when accelerating in a straight line. I've also noticed it happens after I have driven it for atleast 15 minutes or more. For some reason I'm thinking it might be my rotors. My car brakes fine but earlier this year i had new brake pads and the rotors machined and it seemed to disappear for a few months. My rotors probably have 50k on them so maybe it's time to replace. I'll probably do it myself within the next few weeks. If that "cures" it I'll post a message. If you figure it out, tell me.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    From your description of when the sound occurs this does NOT sound like a typical wheel bearing noise. "Classically" the sound of a worn wheel bearing is louder when you turn the wheel off center, and that was exactly what our mechanic tested for on the road test when our wheel bearings went.
  • wantabeetlewantabeetle Member Posts: 8
    I found the solution to the problem. In fact it is a very common problem with the Alero and Grand Am. The mechanic told me that they really should have recalled the part.
    The problem is a little 'sock' filter that is on the fuel pump. It's poorly designed/constructed; when it gets really dirty, it tends to stick together under high pressures. From my understanding the sock is designed to block miniscule particles. Well, when the pressure causes the sock to collapse, the engine may or may not get enough fuel to remain running. All of this is why the problem is intermittent. Once the pressure drops enough, the sock will open back up, and the car will run as though there was no problem.
    I may be wrong, but I think you can just have the sock filter replaced. It's funny...GM knew there was a problem; the replacement part is textured (the old part is not) to create a little friction so that it is less likely to stick together. I went ahead and replaced the whole fuel pump because my fuel gauge sensor was bad (for the second time). I had to keep up with my mileage to know how much gas I had.
    Anyway, hope this helps!
  • tstillerytstillery Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 alero with a 4 cyl the check eng lite came on so i took it up to auto zone and pulled the code said it was a miss fire on the # 4cyl so he said to replace the plugs and the boots so i did and i un hooked the battery to clear the codes (they told me to do that ) the light went off but coming home form work the next day it came back on went back to auto zone same code was pulled .. does anyone know what else i might look at ?

    Thank You :sick:
  • tgeorge2tgeorge2 Member Posts: 10
    The "Clunking Noise" seems to be an epic story! Let us know what they find at the Olds dealership down the road. What do you think it is?
  • i2munknwni2munknwn Member Posts: 3
    The epic ended for me. I no longer have the car. I never took it to Olds. I have no idea what could have been causing it.
  • tgeorge2tgeorge2 Member Posts: 10
    The news is GOOD on the 2003 w/30K miles. My daughter took the car to a GM dealership in Charleston, SC and they replaced a broken strut, checked out the brake area and aligned the front wheels at NO COST!! They said it was still under warranty until April 06. WOW!
  • mcc-mobilemcc-mobile Member Posts: 4
    Mikey00,At the time of the comparison was the 2000/2001 Consumer reports online. I'm sure in 5 years all the " litle things" have finally surfaced that would on any American car and slowly degrade the comparison to the Japanese. So the comparison was with that data when I bought it. One thing I have noticed from Consumer reports is that data changes over the years on car ratings as the models show their true worth. That said, I think there is a natural negative bias towards discontinued models and model changeovers.

    I still like my Alero and now let the 16 year old take it around locally. I'm going to get a motorcycle next as $3.00 a gallon in CA was too much. The Hybrids cars have higher insurance at this point so I'm going for something that gets 40-50 mpg. www.zapworld.com has some interesting models electric hybrids that get 50-60 mpg.

    I'm still considering a last year 2004 Alero if they are still around with low mileage!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Take a hard look at the hybrids before jumping on that wagon. I've read where some folks aren't getting the mileage they expected or was advertised.
    I didn't like the $3.00/gallon in CA either, but one thing I noticed was a lot less traffic when the prices were high.
  • mommymommy Member Posts: 1
    We have a 99 Alero low miles and we had the same noise. After replacing the wheel bearings twice and buying new tires twice in under a year, we installed ceramic brake pads and the noise has gone away. The car stops better than before. It was well worth the $60. Hope this helps!
  • allmightyoneallmightyone Member Posts: 1
    :cry: This has not been a good Thanksgiving weekend for me. I woke up Thursday morning to drive home from a friend's place, and found that my car was not running properly. It would start, but would not accelerate at any reasonable speed. Imangine taking five minutes to get up to 30mph on the road...just not great. I thought that maybe at the time I just had not warmed up the car (which I should never have to do living in Florida) beacuse it was a little "chilly" that day, maybe it just needed gas which I stopped for first thing. After going through my day (work, then to mom's, then out for drinks) the car ran fine and the "Servive Engine Soon" and "Low Trac" lights all turned off. Parked my car Thursday night and did not drive again till Friday night...when the problem came back. The lights back on and car refusing to accelerate and run properly. I thought then to check the oil and such and maybe that it was a "warm-up" problem that had suddenly came on. So Saturday daytime I warmed it up and looked under the hood for a bit to find it AGAIN behaving normal afer maybe 20-30 minutes. Then the fun happened late Saturday night when pulling into my place to sleep...lights back on and car back to not running! AAAAGGGGHHHHHH!!!!! :mad: Good thing I have a friend who knows a little about cars like how to check all fluids and such, so she got under my hood today and checked it out. Thought maybe the transmission fluid was low, which would maybe explain why it didn't accelerate. After leaving her place though the car did not get better...and found me driving back to mom's then to work today feeling like a little old grandmother with angry drivers behind me screaming. I have looked everywhere I can think of in the car, and also online for help. Unfortunately there are not even sites that will map out the engine for you of the Alero or that answer any questions. What do I do though??? :confuse: My car is not able to go any sort of speed, and I have bacically been throwing away money just to go from one place to another due to how fast the gas is going from trying to rev the engine. RPM's will increase...but car moves slowly!
    :sick:By the way this is the 99 Alero V6 Twin Cam Engine with just over 100K. Owned for maybe three months. I had just had an oil change maybe two weeks ago.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Sounds as a transmission problem to me. Had 98 Malibu, with similar transmission. It slipped when it was cold, but run OK when warm. Or I thought so.

    Dealer replaced the transmission - fortunately, then I had an extended warranty. Turned to be, that with healthy transmission the car accelerated much better when warm too.

    Low transmission fluid demonstrates the same symptoms. I know it because had a 88 Taurus with a leaky transmission hose. However, with Malibu transmission, it is impossible to check fluid level. Only mechanic can do it. and with The same with Alero if I understand it right...
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    My 2001, with 22K miles on it, has apparently developed some sort of "brain fart" problem. I have noticed on several occasions lately that all the warning lights in the instrument panel come on at once and the tach drops to 500rpm. This last for only a few seconds, then everything returns to normal. It's happened both while downshifting (I have the 5 sp. manual tranny) and simply while idleing at a light. There is no stumbling of the idle however -- it runs like a peach, so I don't think it's on the verge of stalling or anything that would "normally" cause all the lights to go on and tach to drop. Any thoughts, or will this be another mystery "cannot replicate" item for the dealer to log?
  • hannibal1hannibal1 Member Posts: 2
    All of my dash board lights come on while I am driving at times, it did it a few times in the past and stopped but it has started back , has anyone had this problem, and if so could u plz tell me what it might be. Also does anyone know if the factory radio has jacks in the back of it
  • hannibal1hannibal1 Member Posts: 2
    When mine did it, zi had to get a new fuel pump
  • mapleleafs1333mapleleafs1333 Member Posts: 1
    i own a 99 alero 2 weeks ago the all the warning lights came on and the battery just died i got a new battery and just yesterday it died again anyone have any clues ?
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    My wife's 2002 Alero 3.4 V6 has the age old problem with this engine of leaking anti-freeze through the head gasket. It is going to cost about $560 plus tax to repair!
    I can't understand why GM don't fix this, as I've read about this on so many occasions, and they've been making this engine since the year dot!
    The car has done 50,000 miles.
    Lessons: Take an extended warranty I guess!
    Does anyone know if $560 is a fair price? It is not a GM dealer, but a repair shop I have used for a couple of years now who have been very good to us.

    My wife loves this car and it was incredible value when we purchased it, but we feel a bit pissed about having to spend so much money on a car that has done only 50,000 miles.

    I was looking to buy the new Impala with the 3.9 engine in about a year (used of course), but am now concerned as to whether I might get the same problem.

    Coming from England, I was unaware of this gasket problem until we bought the car I hasten to add!
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    $560 is a very reasonable price. The repair, most probably, would cost about $800 at dealership.

    Had the same problem with my 98 Malibu. Fixed at Firestone, paid about $550, 5 years ago. The last fall the gasket started to leak again. Dealer said: bad luck. My Chevy dealer guarantees most of repairs for life, while Firestone guarantees them for 6 months only, 12 months for AAA members.

    By the way, GM improved design / materials for the gaskets and changed their part number. I read that the new gaskets do not leak anymore, or at least leaks very seldom.

    Extended warranty costs much more that $560, by the way.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Do you mean head gasket or intake manifold gasket? I'm not aware of head gasket problems on the 3.4, but the intake manifold gasket coolant leak is a known problem.
  • mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    If you call the Olds customer satisfaction number in your owners manual (yes they are still there), you can get them to pick up 50% of the repair when done at a GM dealer. But a GM dealer will end up getting you for $1000 or more in the end. Then you send the bill to Olds and they send you a check for half. They will only pay for half of the intake manifold gasket repair, not the entire bill. The dealer will always find other things that must be done, such as plug wires are old and fall apart when engine is disasembled etc. I would have your mechanic do it for $560. It's a good price.
  • ijennings1ijennings1 Member Posts: 67
    Thanks to you all for your replies, I appreciate it. I think i probably meant the intake manifold gasket, thanks for the correction.
    We collected the car this morning, so at least it is done.

    Do you guys have any thoughts about extended private warranties? We looked at this when we bought our Alero. It does of course, allow you loads of options which then affects the premium paid. Even though we have paid $560, we are still saving money compared to the warranty. I suppose it is like all warranties and insurances, you take a chance or pay the premiums! We only do about 8,000 miles a year, so we did not bother.
    One thing that has helped enormously, we changed the front tires to Bridgstones(I think they are G2009), from the B.F. Goodrich's, and what a difference! It has transformed the handling of the car without penalising ride comfort. Even in wet weather they grip really well. They cost about $100 each, but it could save your life if you have to steer out of an emergency situation.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    Bridgestone Potenza G-009. Drive carefully in the winter time.

    I had similar tires of the predecessor model Firestone Firehawk SH-30 on my Malibu. The same tread pattern for the side strips of tires, different pattern for the central strip.

    The tires almost completely changed the character of the somewhat boring car, it became a pleasure to drive. Great in rain. However, the tires, with big blocks and few sips, do not grip snow well. Decent while the tread is fresh and deep, but treacherous when about 1/2 of the original tread is still left.

    Concerning warranty:

    I had an extended warranty for my Malibu. It cost $1200, and paid $3000: $2500 to replace a broken transmission, and balance for two gasket repairs: about $550 for the intake manifold gasket, and another $250 or so for another gasket, do not remember was it water pump or oil pump. Not a big surprise that the warranty company went bankrupt and I had to pay myself for the subsequent repairs (air condition two times, alternator, cooling fluid tank). I traded in the car when dealer found that it needs a new steering rack and the intake manifold gasket leaks again.

    I doubt, however, that it makes sense to buy a warranty when your car is already have 50k miles on it. GM does not sell warranties for such cars. And the companies which issue third party warranties can became bankrupt. I would rather suggest to budget about $1000 - $1500 per year for repairs, and to dispose of the car if it will eat more than about $2000 in a single year.

    The "W" body GM cars, like Buick Regal or Chevy Impala, are more reliable.
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