Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Check out the new 2001's. They look like Saabs
or BMWs. No wagons yet of course.
I may still prefer the 2000 wagons. They have a classic look.
Scott
more roomy than before........
also... weight is heavier.......
Elantra has a three kinds of suspension.
One is for Korean market--> very soft
The other is European market--> very very hard.
The third one is for NA market--> I don't know..
Hyundai guys think that quality is as same as Honda....
Well.. it is sold in Europe now.
The car is great though.
Standard tranmission, A/C, power windows/locks, AM/FM cassette, all the normal stuff. I did not get cruise control or alloys....but it comes with 140hp engine and height adjustable drivers seat with lumbar adjustment too. The only thing I wish it had was a CD player - but I already put my own in....
They had lots of them in stock, they have like two or three lots.
Hope that helps.
For example, how comfortable are the seats, how well does it handle, is the engine powerful, is the interior quiet, how's the stereo, etc.
Thanks,
JEFF
I have test driven the 2001 Elantra twice. I am in the market to getting a spanken 2001. All I can say is that at idle you can barely hear the engine idling. It is very quite. As quiet as my friends 2000 Honda Civic. It handles very well. Much like the 2000 Elantra. I have taken it on the freeway at about 65 mph. It does have a lot of tire noise and some slight wind noise. However, the engine is very quiet. It is much quieter than the 2000 Civic at speeds up to 65 mph. I don't know about speeds beyond that. All I can say it that it is very impressive for its smoothness. I am not sure how it would compare to the 2001 Civic. I may test drive one this weekend. BTW, the Elantra uses Michellin tires and I have heard these are noisy. Though the brochure indicates that a Rear Spoiler and Allow Wheels are available I have yet to see any 2001 Elantras have them. In fact the dealers, here in Southern CA, have no information on when they would be available. They aren't even on their pricing sheet.
Shawn
Scott
I am considering buying Elantra 2001 with 4-speed automatic transmission and package 2 (cruse control, remote keyless entry & vehicle security system).
The invoice price posted on Edmunds.com is $13,015.
Standard (5-speed manual) $11,504
Destination charge $435
Options (4-speed automatic transmission $732
+ Package 2 $344)
I went to the one of Hyundai dealer and found that the sticker price is $14,200 + dealer added option $700
= $14,900.
If I add this sticker price and all additional costs – sales tax, registration & title fees, it will exceed over $16,000.
I was dumbfounded.
Is there anybody who bought Elantra 2001 recently? Please post your price. I’m looking forward to knowing the true fair price.
newelantra: it's very hard to let dealer to accept invoice price(13015) here in Kansa. 12800 is a very good deal(I am sure it's the before-tax price, unless the salesman just won a lottery). How did u negotiate w/ the dearler? Anything special with that car?
Sticker price - $14,907
Standard (auto) - $13,299
Package 2 - $400
Mat - $70
Inland Freight and handling - $435
Dealer added options -$695
- Underbody protection coating
- Paint protection
- Door edge guard
- Sound shield
- Pinstrips
Thank you.
If anyone is searching for a 2000 Wagon, they had a bunch of them. Every color and option available. It was like where all the Wagons that nobody wanted ended up. It is kind of sad, really. I bought my 2000 5-spd Wagon because Hyundai was only one of a handful of manufacturers that made this kind of vehicle. Most car companies have abandoned the compact wagon market, let alone offer a 5-speed, great warranty, great price with tons of options. I will keep my car and hope that Ford keeps their Focus 5-spd wagon around until I need another car.
I own a 2000 Elantra, 5 speed w/7500 miles so far. The car is just great, no problems at all.
Unfortunately we had floods in Florida and my car's carpet got soaked; it's almost dry now, but my question is do you guys think I should do something extra like having the carpet removed so they dry it underneath or should I just live it like that. I understand there is wiring underneath the carpet that can corrode. what would you do?? thank you in advance for any advice
I had a 93 jeep cherokee. the seals around the roof broke and let water in. one night i poured out and the following morning, i got in and saw the carpet was soaked. however, i let it dry and nothing happened electrically. but were talking about a foregin car, not a domestic like my old car. the wiring system is totally different in every car, so id bring it in
strange interior smell - must be the foam rubber
in the seats or something."
A-ha! The infamous strange smell still exists! Korean cars are notorious for that. I believe it has something to do with a chemical that is used to protect the vehicles during oceanic shipping.
Also, any suggestions on how to run this car in its first 2000 miles are welcome. Thanks.
I wanted to put some headlight bulbs with a higher wattage high beam on my 2k Elantra. I got some at JC Whitney that are 80w high/55w low. I live out in a rural area with a lot of animals crossing the road in the early morning hours.
Anyway, my high beam fuses lasted about a half hour. They are rated 10 amp (each side), and the amperage of the headlight is supposed to be less than 7 amps on high beam. Apparently Hyundai runs other electrical items off that 10 amp fuse, or possibly flashing the high beams with the low beams on engages both for a total of 11.2 amps.
Bottom line: You can't increase the wattage of your high beams without bumping the fuse rating up to 15 amps, which I don't recommend. I don't know if the wiring can handle the increase power.
I did the same mod to my Daewoo Nubira with no problems.
the new car "Break-In". Your car is made of thousands and thousands of pieces, all fitting together
tightly with very small clearances. The way you treat your new car for the first 1000 miles will determine
a lot about the rest of its life. To help make certain your new car last as long as possible, here are some
very important tips for breaking in your new car. Please also read your owner's manual and follow the
manufacture's recommendations as well. The break-in period lasts for the first 1000 miles, although the
first miles are the most important.
Change your oil at 1000 miles.
The new engine and its parts are getting to know each other very well, and small pieces of metal
are worn off during the first 1000 miles. These small pieces are normal - all engines do this.
Change engine speed often.
The engine should not be kept at a constant speed during the break-in period. Change speed
every 5-10 minutes, slow down a few mph or speed up a few mph. This is most important for the
first few hundred miles.
Do not use cruise control for first 1000 miles.
The engine's speed should not be kept constant for long periods of time during the break-in. Avoid
the use of cruise control.
Avoid Hard Sudden Stops.
This is difficult since you rely greatly on other drivers to not cause a situation where you need to
stop suddenly. Sudden stops can cause new brakes to not settle properly, shortening their life.
Try to always maintain a large distance between you other cars, to help prevent sudden stops.
Avoid Jack-Rabbit Starts.
Flooring the gas pedal and taking off may sound fun, but it's a quick way to shorten the life of your
engine. Jack-Rabbit starts should never be performed, but it is very important to not do them
during the break-in period.
Transmission
Manual Transmissions should be kept in the correct gear. Do not allow the engine to lug (having
the engine in too high a gear for the speed).
Automatic Transmissions should have the over-drive turned off when going below 35 mph (the
switch is located on the shifter knob). Keeping the over-drive off below 35 mph keeps the RPM's
higher, making certain the engine is hot enough to burn fuel and waste correctly. This is more
important on 4-cylinder engines and should be used throughout the cars life. This will help keep
the engine clean.
Do not race the engine.
Racing the engine is never good, and even worse during the break-in period. Racing the engine
can cause seals to settle incorrectly, causing problems down the road.
Keep the speed low under 60 mph.
This is more important for the first couple hundred miles. Try not to go over 60 mph.
Take a short trip.
Taking a short trip is a great way to break in your new car. Driving on the interstate in the slow
lane allows you to quickly get the most important first few hundred miles completed. Driving on
the interstate will also avoid traffic lights (stopping and starting) and allow you to vary your speed.
1- Like described on topic #75, at night, the dial itself light up when they are dimmed at mid-intensity and when engine revs up on kick-down. It happens only when A/C is on. Any idea about it? The prob still remains on my car
2- Manifold cracked, intoxicating my family with carbon monoxid. I suppose to be the only one in Canada who have change that piece on 1996-2000 Elantra generation. Wow! I'm glad to know that
3- A/C works so-so. After a half hour use, it push a cool puff of air, then push a warm humid puff... Then the cycle begins:cool-warm-cool-warm... Now, i don't use A/C cause it it too much frustating. And, despite 4-5 dealership visits, the prob still be with the car. Any idea about it?
4- Other minor probs, they have to change a shock absorber on right rear side, two tail gate schock on the hatch,, and, what else.. the alternator slacked on its bracket in the first week, leaving me stucked aside the road (my love story has beginned there) and automatic tranny slips one a month, even the recall serviced on my car. Bulbs blows like pop corn on this car.
Unfortunately, there is no lemon law in Quebec Province and i can't return back that devil's creature. So i have to keep that crap till the lease contract will be over. I,m sad about the poor quality of this car cause it's a good family car, providing a good comfort, good gas efficiency regardless the potential power of the engine and a delightful sure paw on the road. But it will be my first and last Hyunday
race the engine?
Short trip? (noone likes to take long one if there is a short trip)
Also, can you tell me what does rear spoiler do?
Scott
I want to know, anything I can do now to make my car's break-in better(though it is a little late now). Thanks.
This morning when I started my 2000 elantra, the car body has a little bit noticable shaking back and forward, and the red light "check engine" was on, and it continued on during my 20 minutes drive to work, I stopped on the road and restart the car and the "check engine" light was still on, I don't know what's wrong. Anyone can help? (just had a car wash yesterday, can that be the problem?)
Just had 15,000 miles maintainance service couple of weeks ago, they found out that the auto transmission fluid leaks and fixed that, so far that is the only problem. The other minor problem is that the left passenger door won't unlock with either remote keyless or master control on driver's door, haven't ask dearler yet, anyone has similar problem??
thanks in advance, any input will be appreciated.
I called the dealership service department but they said if the car still runs fine then their earliest appointment available is 8 days from today. I wonder if the "check engine" light continues on while driving could cause any damage to the engine and all.
I had the 2000 elantra since last Nov., the first $15000 miles the baby was doing exceptional (runs great, high gas mileage, quiet engine, etc...you name it, ,it was never late on oil change (first oil change at 750 miles) and maintainance service, and I was very very satisfied with its overall performance. However, now the problem seems coming one after another: auto transmission fluid leaking, passenger door won't "power" lock/unlock, and now "check engine" problem....