Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

jimbeaumi · April 2002

Almost forgot backy -- the a/c runs in the winter to defrost and most manufacturers recommend running air even in the winter; short periods of running are supposed to keep it at peak operation (I'm no a/c expert, so I am not 100% certain why)

backy · April 2002

I agree that it's USUALLY a good idea to run the A/C with the defroster, and a good idea to run it periodically even in the winter. But I live in Minnesota, and I've always wondered if it is a good idea to run the A/C when it is twenty degrees below zero (that's Fahrenheit, not Celsius). Fortunately, it hasn't been that cold this winter, only a bit below zero on two days, but last winter it was really cold. It is a simple thing to press the A/C button myself when I turn on the defroster, if I need it. Maybe someone who is an expert in car A/C systems can tell us there is nothing to worry about when running the A/C in below-zero weather, and then I can take it off my list.

It seems there are several differences between U.S.-spec Elantras and those in other countries. I guess if I had to choose I'll take the cruise control with alarm on my Elantra over the back seat armrest in Australia--except you can add cruise more easily than a rear arm rest!

csandste · April 2002

I might consider these tires when my Michelins bite the big one. Is there anyone else out there who is happy or unhappy with these tires?

The only reason I'd like an alarm chirp is to keep me from getting befuddled while searching for my car on a parking lot.

jimbeaumi · April 2002

Backy, it's easy to add a rear-seat armrest w/storage to your car. First, you attach some Velcro to the bottom of a shoebox...

I remember previous cars that did not run the a/c compressor to defrost my car when temps dipped very low. So far, my Elantra has used the a/c to do so (winter wasn't our worst this year in Michigan).

backy · April 2002

I know from experience over the past two winters that the temperature can dip pretty low, way below zero, and the Elantra dilligently turns on the A/C in defrost mode. Of course, I know it will do that, so I flick it off right away. Just shows how good the car is when this is one of my biggest complaints about it.

Think about this one: a black grille with body-color surround (instead of chrome)... what do you think? (Maybe more for the GT...)

buoyant · April 2002

I know I've probably mentioned this on this topic before, but it would be nice to have reading lights for the rear seat. I've got the sunroof on mine and there is no light cast into the back seat at night. I have to go back there with a flashlight if I lose something on the floor.

All in all, I love my Hyundai though. Not only was it super cheap to buy, I don't tire of driving it like I did my last 5 spd. It may not be a sports car, but the actions of both the clutch and transmission are very smooth and that makes the whole driving experience much more enjoyable in my opinion. I don't fear stop-and-go traffic with my Elantra like I did with my last stick.

bri70 · April 2002

Does anyone know if Hyundai has responded to this IIHS news release? It would be more reassuring. A small excerpt:

"The delay allowed the driver dummy's head to strike the steering wheel, resulting in high head injury forces. In a third test, the airbag again deployed late (64 milliseconds into the crash), INDICATING THE RESULT OF THE SECOND TEST WASN'T AN ANOMALY." (my caps)

"Clearly the airbag sensors in the Elantra aren't recognizing in time the severity of all of the crashes they need to," O'Neill points out.

http://www.hwysafety.org/news%5Freleases/2001/pr071701.htm

browney · April 2002

If this forum had a better search feature you could search the archives for this. If you could do this type of search you would find many previous posts about this.
I posted about 4-5 months ago that I had spoken with the customer relations group at Hyundai.
They told me that based on all their testing there is no problem that requires any fix.
I asked for copies of all their in house crash test data to be faxed to me, (can't hurt to ask)but never received any.

smiller678 · April 2002

Hi all,

I guess this could be my first problem on my 01 Elantra GLS. My driver side front left yellow reflector light went out. What I don't know how to do is replace the bulb. Do you have to remove the yellow plastic lenses. If so how do you do that?

Any help would be appreciated.

Happy motoring

Shawn

ziglifler · April 2002

take it back to the dealer i am sure it is still covered .

pat · April 2002

The ability to search within a discussion is supposed to be coming shortly. Obviously, it is sorely needed around here.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Pat
Sedans Host

browney · April 2002

Pat,
That would be great!! :-)
I have read most of the posts in the archives and there is a ton of useful info, especially for new members
Don

caesarslegion · April 2002

i would say yes.but remember that the key to long life is on time oil changes.i have 141,000 miles on my tracer,and it gets an oil change every 3,000 miles.

ziglifler · April 2002

i agree change the oil and u stand a good chance . i have 160 on my 95 accent and it is still going strong.

jimbeaumi · April 2002

I am confident my Elantra will be a "high mileage" vehicle (if I don't decide to upgrade right away to a GT). Two good reasons for my '87 Mercury Lynx making it to 227,000 miles: 1) It was equipped with a 5-speed rather than the 3-speed auto from that era, and 2) I maintained it religiously w/3-4000 mile oil changes, etc. We can remember what a low-tech vehicle and powertrain the Escort/Lynx from that era was. And I did NOT drive it like a granny.

csandste · April 2002

it's the automatic transmission. Of course you might go through a couple of clutches with a 5-speed, but my experience has been that facing a $1000 plus auto. transmission repair in a typical beater has been what's put it down, not failed engines.

jimbeaumi · April 2002

My little Lynx was sold after 10 years with the original clutch, exhaust, alternator, starter, radiator, and all working fine, miraculously enough. The automatics back then had no overdrive, so the highway revs were just too high; today's overdrive automatics are the answer (unless, like you say, there is a repair $$$). Also, that car was a 5-door, the usefulness of which was a great bonus and might tempt me to trade up to the Elantra GT sooner than anticipated (they were JUST coming in when I bought the GLS, and couldn't wait to get out of my GM car).

o0allstar0o · April 2002

hey
i just wanted to ask all the people who come on this board who owns a new hyundai elantra about how much are the monthy payments on one with automatic trans and cd player and maybe a sunroof.. i want to know b/c i am still in high school and i am looking for a (good) cheap eco car to get me back and forth to college next year..

csandste · April 2002

Whenever I hear about anybody worrying about monthly payments rather than total cost I get concerned. You could be put into a lease, or a 72 month conventional loan and be paying big, big interest charges. Worry about the total cost instead. Cars depreciate and should be paid off as quickly as possible. Hyundais depreciate more than most.

browney · April 2002

You should pay attention to what csandste is saying or else you stand a chance of getting a nice low payment and paying a fortune overall for the car.
Check out this edmunds link for the steps to buying a car.
www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/43091/article.html

I am paying $268 a month (5 year loan) for an 01 Elantra with Opt 3 and auto.
I negotiated the price by having edmunds TMV and carsdirect.com pricing before going into the dealer. I also had online financing beforehand.
I bought my vehicle for about $50 less than the best price that carsdirect would sell for. But I also added a $280 gap insurance policy on to the payments and put nothing down. My final price was about $14,400 with all fees, gap ins, and taxes.
I felt this was a decent deal for being in the Atlanta area but I have read of much better deals on the coasts where the cars actually come into from Korea.
Just make sure you are prepared before going to the dealer. ;-)

buoyant · April 2002

I pay $264/mo for my 02 package 4 5spd. I put $1,000 down and financed the rest through Chase Manhattan at 6.9% for 60 mos. I think the total after tax (ty Minnesota), title and license was something like 14k.

I ended up paying $300 under invoice if you include the rebate, 200 over if you don't.

I thought it was a pretty good deal. Perhaps I could of got it for 1 or 2 hundred less, but I really didn't care to drive to Milwaukee to find another one in the color I wanted. Plus the dealer I purchased it from gives out free "VIP packages" which essentially amounts to complimentary oil changes and car washes for as long as I own the car.

csandste · April 2002

several months ago there were a number of "whatdidyoupay" posts that included taxes, etc. This varies so much by state that including is misleading. In Missouri, for example, taxes are not paid at sale, but at registration, and are credited to your home community, not the dealer location.

ziglifler · April 2002

like csandste said don't worry so much about the payment at first , get your best deal then talk payments. an elantra will run you from 11k-16k depending on what model and options you want and where you live in the country . if you can see if u can get the loan BEFORE you go buy a car . that way you will already know what the top u will pay .

my payments are 235 a month for 60 months at 5.79%, it was 13900 for a 2002 gt , with tax and title it came to 15100 and i put 3k down . i pay 300 a month and hope to knock it down to 3.5 years . if i remember right i think 36 month loan would have been 340 somthing a month.
taxes here suck i had to pay 7.50%. if i had gotten the car 4 days earlier i would have saved .25% but had to wait for the loan

but that would have only saved me like 35$.

newsview · April 2002

Hi,

I have two problems with my GLS, automatic Elantra with about 4k on it:

The first problem became evident almost immediately after I purchased the car. It sounds as if my '01 Elantra has a frog in its throat after it sits more than four or five hours (or overnight) and/or the weather is cold. At first it was obvious only upon acceleration from a stop and disappeared when the car warmed up but now I can also hear a faint remanent of it (sounds like a piece of gravel caught up in the engine) even after it warms up. The colder it is the louder it is and the longer it lasts before it fades away.

Yesterday I left the car at the dealer for the sixth or seveth time and came in again this morning to do a test drive with the same tech that looked at it 4 months ago for the same problem. Well, thanks to good 'ol Murphy's Law, there was hardly a trace of the noise today so here we go again (no solution). That's why I'm hoping someone here can help.

A friend put his ear to the engine one night and says it sounds like a taping with a hiss to it, like a leaky vacuum. The dealer insists that if it were anything serious though, it would have tripped a light on the dash, which hasn't happened.

So far they have given me three different opinions: noisy lifters, normal. Noisy EGR celenoids, normal. Noisy exhaust shield, tightening it did not help.

The second problem occurs after the car has been driven for a longer period of time (after warm up). Usually on my way home, and particularly when outside noise/traffic is low, I can hear a thumping or slight knocking from the rear of the car while sitting at a stop light or after pulling into my driveway before shutting off the car. It sounds as if somebody is in the trunk going "thump, thump, thump" and then it disappears. The first time I heard it I thought another driver was doing it or that it was the bass from a someones stereo (mine was off).

Initially, I thought it was associated with the breaks but a friend heard it and mentioned that it might have more to do with the tail pipe or catalytic converter. Once again, however, there are no dash lights illuminated.

Has anyone heard of or solved either of these problems? Should I ignore it until a dash light comes on?

I've had a lot of odd problems including a steering wheel tipped to the right, a clock that burnt out and had to be replaced. Both front struts had to be lubricated due to creaking and the right front strut assembly was entirely replaced within a month after purchase. I've also experienced the common issues such as a sticking gas door/latch, the creeks, etc. But obviously I'm having some oddball issues too.

I like my car but I feel like I live at the dealership! Suggestions? Solutions?

vocus · April 2002

From reading this forum for awhile, it sounds like you may have the most problematic Elantra in this forum. I am sorry dude. Only thing I can say is to go with the dealer and drive the car with them in the morning once.

buoyant · April 2002

news, it almost sounds like you're looking for problems. 90% of your car's maladies could be described as "mystery noises." You actually had your friend put his ear to the engine? That sound obviously can't be too noticeable or he could've heard it standing 4 feet from the car with the hood closed.

It's normal for engines to make more noise when cold than after they're warmed up - they're made out of metal. Mine is slightly louder (as has been every car I've ever owned) when it's cold as well. It doesn't necessarily signal a problem.

I suspect you've been a little on the paranoid side since your clock when out. But I highly doubt your car is coming apart at the seams. Relax.

bri70 · April 2002

I was very annoyed with the rattle that my car was producing. Every time I hit an expansion joint a metallic click would sound. The weird thing was that it would not be consistent. On one road bump the noise would sound the next it would not.

I was so aggrevated that I emptied my car looking for that incessant sound. I started with the glove box and even went so far as to empty the trunk.

DUH! I felt very dumb when I found out what it was. I was placing my "Club" steering wheel lock on the passenger side floor. It is the model that does not need a key to lock. Just pull on it and the metallic clicks tell you it is locking. That was my problem.

newsview · April 2002

Buoyant, it would be a relief if I were just paranoid. I would love that!

To clarify, the friend who put his ear to the engine did so to see if what I hear in the cabin while driving (above road, wind and engine noise) sounded any different up close. It did. He describes it as a tapping/hissing sound. From where I sit, it sounds like "rocks rolling around a empty coffee can" as a fellow over on the maintenance/repair board wrote about his Audi (with the response to his post being a possible problem with the oil valves/lifters).

As for hearing it from "4 feet away," I Have had a family member hear it from the outside with the hood closed too. It's tricky to trigger it when your just idling at a stop though. The problem is evident during cold weather but it has to be moving before it becomes loud enough for practically anyone to hear it. (I can hear it faintly at a stop too now though.)

One young tech at the dealership heard the sound but that was four months ago and he's forgotten (my fault for getting sick of bringing it back and letting time lapse.) As for the rest, most are practically deaf. It's an occupational hazard. I have a family member who owned an auto body shop who suffers from hearing loss too. So no, I am not paranoid. This is legit, and according to the brothers at CarTalk, a very common problem across all makes.

If it goes away in a minute or two, they say it's normal. But if you're hearing it for 10 -15 minutes  even several times a day after the engine has cooled  there's wear and tear going on that may eventually destroy the camshaft and the engine. The miles are low enough now that I want to rule out this type of issue before the damage adds up.

The problem: The dealer won't perform even a basic oil pressure or compression test without hearing it first. And since not a lot of people on these Elantra boards are having the same problem (I only found two other posts like mine), it would appear that something unique and not "normal" is going on here.

I grew up, as I said, around the automotive repair business and I've had just about everything in the book happen to me with various cars. Life would be a lot easier if it were "in my head!"

printz · April 2002

Sorry to hear you're having all the problems....I have an 02 Elantra it's the 1st 4 door car i've ever owned...I took something off the rear seat the other day got in my car & proceeded to leave my parking space in my garage... The next thing I know my rear door hit the cement barrier(I forgot to close the rear door "stupidity"), I have a small dent($225 to fix), will get it fixed next week....Were your struts making noise when driving or just pushing up & down on the hood & what kind of noise were they making??...I think my struts might also be bad..When going over bumpy roads about 15-20mph I hear noises I didn't hear on the test drive car.....Will have them look at it when I bring it in for the 3 month service....

csandste · April 2002

by one of those paintless dent removal people for $30, I've got another small parking lot dingy that I'll bring in to him in a week or so. Depending on the damage that can be a lot more attractive than paying big $$$. My car originally had some hail damage, two panels were repainted but the trunk had paintless dent removal and still looks great.

printz · April 2002

I live in NY, where can I get info on anyone that does paintless dent removal.....The rear door has a dent, but no paint is cracked, it would be something to consider.....

jimbeaumi · April 2002

Printz, I immediately found an ad for paintless dent removal in my yellow pages, after reading csandste's post. I have the shallowest door ding. Hardly noticeable but I know it is there!

newsview · April 2002

RE: Printz
Sorry to hear about the door mishap. I too had a misadventure the second week after I got the car. I got it back from the dealer after the struts were lubed and there was paint missing on the front passenger door molding not far from the area where they were working. I could swear it wasn't there before I took it in for service but they said it was my responsibility to have it repainted, which of course they couldn't do because they dont have an auto body dept. The service manager gave me the name of a place in another city and even though it was a bit of a drive, I decided to check it out. The manager at the auto body shop did the job for free! Wow. Sometimes there are actually decent folks working in the automotive business. ;-)

As for the struts, yes they were noisy while driving. They creaked like an old house, particularly during cold weather. When the car leaned into a turn, it became worse  particularly on the right. Eventually they replaced the whole assembly on the front passenger side and I haven't had a problem since.

I've also had a problem with my steering wheel pointed just a few degrees downward on the right but the dealer says they can't adjust it because there's basically only one way to install it (the way it came from the factory). At first it didn't bother me but now that I notice it, I can't seem to "unnotice" it. Another person on the Edmunds board reported the same and said a Sears Auto Center was able to fix it whereas their dealer tried and couldn't. Hmm. Maybe I should get another opinion, but then it's at my expense. So much for the 12,000 mile "adjustments" warranty.

newsview · April 2002

In trying to get a difficult problem diagnosed and fixed on my car, I came across some valuable info. about why dealerships are sometimes such a pain in the This may interest anyone who has ever asked, "Why do dealerships treat customers like pond scum?"

According to a manager, Corporate treats warranty claims on a car like an HMO treats a doctor/patient. Car manufacturers want to keep costs down by discouraging extensive testing/diagnostics. This forces dealerships to take an ultra-conservative approach when it comes time to investigate a customer complaint.

If they send back a part that's suspected of causing a problem, the part has to be defective or they don't get reimbursed for the warranty work that's been performed. Same thing with tests. Dealerships don't have the freedom to poke around under the hood looking for borderline or intermittent problems. So unless it's obvious to a three-year-old, they're going to be reluctant to do anything for fear that they won't get paid if they fail to correctly diagnose/fix it on the first attempt.

End result? As long as the manufacturer warranty applies, dealerships seem to prefer a wait-and-see approach. This, in turn, prevents "early detection." And forget about an intermittent problem  they don't want to touch it if the solution isn't clear cut. Of course, they have to tell the customer something in the meantime, so you can imagine why some of these guys eventually start to sound like con artists.

Corporate lays out the rules in this way for fear that they would go bankrupt trying to reimburse dealerships that run every test in the book just to make a few extra warranty bucks. This is the first time I've ever heard of corporate being afraid of being taken advantage of just like the little guy who goes for an oil change and is told his whole engine needs to be rebuilt, the transmission needs replacement, the breaks are bad, etc., etc. But yes, it's true. Corporate is afraid of being sucked dry just like the rest of us. Unfortunately, for people like me, this means that to catch a developing problem before the damage is irreversible, I have to pay-out-of-pocket  which is exactly what one service manager suggested I do! My only other alternative, according to the dealer, is to ignore it because it's probably nothing on a car with only 4k. So now, thanks to this wonderful way the automotive industry does business, the burden of proving I deserve warranty service shifts to me. (Anyone else ever feel that way, like You have to be the expert or they won't listen? Now you know why.)

But not all is lost. I guess in 30,000 miles when the noisy valve lifters have shot the camshaft and destroyed the engine, then I'll have a legit warranty claim  minor detail that the car won't be worth repairing by then! What an eye opener.

backy · April 2002

I won't dispute that some dealerships are a pain. I try not to give those my business. Maybe I'm lucky, but I think I've found one really great dealership, Walser Dodge in Bloomington, MN, and one pretty-good dealership, Denny Hecker's Rosedale Hyundai in Roseville, MN. I've been a customer of Walser Dodge (formerly Freeway Dodge) for 11 years, with two Caravans. Their sales and service staff have always been exemplary. Example: when I bought my first Caravan in '91, I had to pick it up a few minutes before closing. The salesman still took a long time to be sure he went over everything on the vehicle, explaining every feature, answering every question. Then I noticed a sticker on the window indicating that the car had been given a poly-sealant treatment. I told him I hadn't asked for that (or paid for it--it wasn't there when I bought the van). He replied that he wanted the van to look great when I picked it up, so he had them do it. Another example: I brought my '99 Caravan in two winters ago for a rattle in the passenger side sliding door. Instead of just trying to tighten it up, they replaced the tracks--on both doors. This winter I brought the van in for an oil change. When I went to pay for it, the advisor told me they also did the fuel rail recall, for which my van was not yet officially eligible, because they didn't want me to make a another trip later. Rosedale Hyundai has been not quite as exemplary, but not bad at all. For instance, I took my Elantra in for an oil change the other day and asked them to check out a rattle. At first they gave me the usual line, "all economy cars rattle a little...", but I told the senior Hyundai tech that the car was really great, it just has this annoying rattle that is all the more noticeable because the car is so quiet, blah blah, and asked him to take a ride with me, which he did, and we drove around until he was sure of when the rattle occurred. I left the car with him the following day, and he took all day to find and defeat the rattle. There was no charge, even though rattles are not covered by the Hyundai warranty after the first year. So yes, some dealerships are a pain; some customers are a pain too I suppose. When you find a really good dealership, stick with them.

csandste · April 2002

I cross posted this on the oil filter forum...

Wal-Mart changed the oil on my '01 Elantra three straight times using a SuperTech 2808 and this time noted on their repair order (thanks) that the wrong filter had been used, substituting a 6607. I was leaving before I noticed it. A tech (not the one who changed my oil, he left) said that both filters had the same diameter but that the 2808 was larger. Their book called for a 6607, their on-line database called for a 2808.

My assumption is that the 6607, as the smaller filter, fits each and every Hyundai out there and the 2808 if clearances will take the larger filter, is the way to go.

I'll e-mail Champion Labs and see if they respond. I know this has come up on other cars. I am a bit, worried, however, by the Mark Salem comments about different filter media being designed for a particular weight oil. Since Hyundai allows everything from 5W30 to 10W40, I don't think this is a big deal.

Anyone else have thoughts or comments on this?

csandste · April 2002

Mr. Ssandstedt,

The Super Tech catalog calls for the ST2808 on the 2001 Hyundai Elantra.
The ST6607 could be used as a smaller alternate, however the correct filter
which we recommend is the ST2808.

The only air filter we have available for this application is the Champ
AF7999. For the nearest Champ distributor in your area, please contact our
Customer Service at (800) 851-3641.

If you have any other questions, feel free to contact us at any time.
Thank you.

Chad Garrett
Technical Service
Representative
Champion Laboratories, Inc.

buoyant · April 2002

The dealer that told you they couldn't fix a steering wheel that's slightly off center was lying. They could, they just don't want to.

They can re-center the wheel by realigning the vehicle.

chaimest · April 2002

Due to the extreme heat up hear in the North East the past week, I have been running the AC in my 2002 Elantra (got it in the beginning of Jan.) a little earlier then I had anticipated. I have noticed a high pitched squeaking noise when the AC is on and I am excelerating or braking. Has anyone else experienced this noise, or know what it is?

ziglifler · April 2002

i to have heard this noise , sounds like a intermediate ringing it lasts for a few seconds and stops , like when the compressor kicks in it starts and when it stops the sound stops . i have a bout a k in miles to go before the next trip to dealer for service i will have them check it .

also , it has been very windy here the last few days . i mean really windy . and i have notices on high gusts or cross wind as i am driveing i get a whistle sound. this is the only time it happens . i have had the gt up to 100mph and haven't heard any noise like this . but on the couple of very windy days when the wind comes from the side of the car i get a whistle .

buoyant · April 2002

Thankfully, my Elantra has made no such noise (ty, God). But I used to have an Isuzu that had the same problem (and annoyed the hell out of me). I traced it to the belt that turns the compressor.

Perhaps the serpentine belt on your Elantra needs to have the tension adjusted.

csandste · April 2002

this is the one that Champion Labs says is too small but is recommended by Fram. My god is that thing small. I guess I'll keep it on til the next oil change and then demand a 2808. Is there anyone out there who uses a Fram filter? I can't for the life of me figure out why they recommend that one since they also make another larger filter which is listed as interchangable with the 2808.

The only reason I can see for a small filter like that is that it would keep the same filter across an entire line of cars-- i.e. Accent (or something else) wouldn't have the clearance.

Does anyone know what the Hyundai OEM filter is like? Is that tiny?

tonykrapil · April 2002

I havent posted here in a while as both my 01 Elantra and 00 Sonata are running great.

I will however let you all know about my mpg findings with the K&N air filters I placed in both.

In the Sonata with a 4cyl engine mileage is up +4 mpg highways and city and average. I have always checked mileage on every fill up and it is positively up which is a good thing.

NOW, its a completely different story on my 01 Elantra. The mileage is DOWN 3-4 mpg on EVERY tank in the last 1000 or so miles. I also placed the original filter back in and it immediately goes back to 30mpg with the K&N I can get no more than 27 no matter how conservatively I drive.

I have reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a period of time as well and no improvement.

I decided to do one last test and that is to wash and re-oil the K&N filter. I will be taking a couple hundred-mile road trip tomorrow and will know right away.

IF the mileage is NOT as good as the original paper filter I will be selling this one, which is, every bit like new, just not providing me the end result I hoped for. Soooo if anyone is looking for a K&N air filter be ready, I may be selling it for a good price

mpgman · April 2002

Well...the original engine on my Festiva lasted 320,800 miles and I changed the oil every 7,500 like the book called for. I added oil if it got low, and that might be just as important as changing it frequently. I've always felt that frequent oil changes are oil industry propaganda to get you to spend more.

vocus · April 2002

Consumer Reports did a report on this a couple years back. They said it was a scam, the 3000 mile thing.

I follow the manufacturer's book, and keep all my receipts when I get the work done. If something creeps up, then I will have the docs to deal with it.

ebekins · April 2002

There's an article in the Los Angeles Times today talking about how well Hyundai is doing. It mentioned the Santa Fe and the new Sonata. Makes me feel good about my decision to buy our Elantra last year.

How do I post the URL for the article? It's telling me I can't post a word more than 115 characters long. Well, you can go to the latimes.com website for today, click on the Highway 1 section, and it's on that section's front page.

canpam · April 2002

It is good to see Hyundai getting credit for building good automobiles. I thought the LA Times piece on Autopacific Ratings was a good article.

bri70 · April 2002

http://www.latimes.com/news/printedition/highway1/la-000028974apr24.story

Thanx to EBEKINS for the heads up.

kevinw · April 2002

The engine check light just came on in my 2001 elantra with about 10k miles on it. I tried to tighten the gas cap as I heard that a loose cap can cause this. But it's still on. The dealership is not open in weekends. I just want to see if anyone out there had the same problem and how to fix it.

Thanks a lot.

colcay · April 2002

I have a 2002 Elantra GLS automatic. I love my car, but when I first drive it after it's been sitting and the engine is cold, it shifts like crap. The shifts range from jerky to shift flares. This is only when the car is cold, after 10 minutes or so and the engine has warmed up, it shifts fine.

Also, when I first turn over the engine, it revs to about 1500 rpm and stays there a few seconds, slowly working it's way down to normal idle speed. But sometimes it'll rev to 1500 rpm, and immediately drop down to normal idle speed. Is this normal as well? And why isn't it consistent?

This is my first automatic car and I wasn't sure if these are common traits. Thanks for any comments.

Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles