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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • rbeaudinrbeaudin Member Posts: 14
    I had a 3 year financing deal for my current car, so I'll be refinancing for 3 years again and going from a $345 payment to about $250 for 2 year financing (I'll have paid off a brand new car in 2 years!). My justification for trading in my current, although it is, as backy pointed out, broken in, is that in NYC, one cannot affort to drive anything that is not brand spankin' new - we get taken left and right here, even by dealers. I usually try and get the car serviced in Vermont, where my dad lives, because they're so honest and cheap, but here, what would cost $100 costs $300 or more. Thanks again, folks!
  • johhujohhu Member Posts: 17
    I am planning to sound proof my 2000 elantra with dynamat.it's not that my car is so noisy, I just want the driving to be more comfortable for long trips.The dynamat thing is kind of expensive,36 sqft will cost around $200 at some internet venders,$20 for 2 sqft at bestbuy store, and on ebay people are selling the 36 sqft bulk for $100.Since I may keep my elantra for 4~6 more years,it could be a worthy thing to do.One thing I am concerned about is that the asphalt-like sticky thing which will have to be put on the inside door panels will make future fixing on the doors difficult,and it had to be torn apart.
    What do you think?
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Guys I wanted to treat my dash, doors etc early on so that they dont get damaged over time from the sun, heat etc. I neglected to do this with my old car and it got really bad. I could have sworn that I heard somewhere that Armor all was not as good as once thought and it causes damage over time (fading etc). Any truth to this? what do you guys use? Some people have said use baby oil (dont know if that protects anything) Thx
  • jjbondjjbond Member Posts: 9
    I just purchased my first new car, an '03 Elantra GLS (w/ convenience package 5) for $13,000. I hope this was a good deal. I was wondering "what now?"

    1) I assume that there is a factory wax job on the car, so I don't need to wax it for a while?

    2) Should I spray something on the interior fabric to protect it?

    3) And the previous poster mentioned putting armor-all or something on the vinyl. Should this step be taken?

    I'm just trying to find out what all I need to do to keep this baby beautiful. And is 3000mi the first time I should take it in?

    Thanks for any advice!
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Hey congrats im a new 03 GLS myself. I plan to take mine in at the recommended 3000mi. As for waxing, I waxed mine right away to protect it. I bough a can of Scotch Guard from Wal-mart and will be scotch-guarding my cloth seats before I start spilling drinks on them LOL. I am currently looking for something else to use instead of Armor-all since I have heard that the petroleum distillats in it actually cause fading over time.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Had another head light bulb go out (I think that's seven) and went to the dealer since their bulbs DO seem to last longer and it's covered under warranty.

    Had my first tail light go out. Blundered around trying to get the metal cover open--loosened the three nuts, was confused by separate plastic covered doo dad and for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get the cover open-- looked considerably larger than the fabric top cover. Since I was going on a 700 mile trip and had already gotten a warning from a cop, I decided to have both tail lights replaced when I visited the dealer. They also discovered the center stop light was out and replaced.

    The headlight was covered by warranty. The tail lights cost me $106, only about $5 was for the bulbs. I've had a lot of cars in my life and have always been able to figure out how to get at the tail light bulbs. Hyundai's web manual and another one that I looked at are next to useless in giving details saying something like "remove cover and replace bulbs"... duh!

    Am I just dense or what? Any hints on doing this?

    My dealer experience is another reason why I'll leave most non-warranty work to an independent garage. It seems like Hyundai offsets low purchase with high repair costs. Thank God that except for the bulbs and a neutral safety switch that absolutely nothing has gone wrong in 52K miles.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    No, there is no "factory" wax unless the dealer applied a package that included paint sealant, so the right thing to do is what ellandry did--wax it right away! I also like Scotchguard to protect cloth seats, have used it for many years. As for what is better than Armor All, I used to use Armor All on my dashboards but with my last couple of cars have used nothing, just keep them clean with a damp wiping with every wash. And you know what? The dashboards look fine after five years on my van and three on my Elantra. I should add that the vehicles are garaged at night and the Elantra is usually under cover in the daytime too, in Minnesota, so the dash doesn't get all the hot sun of a Southern climate. I do use Armor All or (currently) the STP equivalent on the weatherstripping and black plastic trim on my cars.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Guys I just ordered a free sample of this stuff. Friend told me it is the bomb.

    http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=freesample

    Will let you know how it works

    PS backy will you email me please at ellandry@bellsouth.net
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Just curious which is the best you have found and how long does it last?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I believe the Elantra is the same as their other cars. You don't try to access the tail lights from inside the car like you did in the past. You have to unscrew the tail light and pull the whole assembly free from the car. I did this on my 00 Accent. You simply unscrew the 2 screws on the inside side of the tail light up against the trunk opening. That will loosen one side of the light. The other side is held on by a clip. This is the hardest part of the job. It feels like something is going to break as you try to pull the light off the car. I found you have to pull the light towards the outside of the car slightly and than pull rearward to get the clip to unhook. Once the tail light is pulled free, you simply unhook the light socket and change bulbs. Getting the light assembly back on wasn't quite as difficult. It took me about 15 min total to replace 1 brake light. I'll admit it is more difficult then it should be, but I would never pay $106 instead of taking 15 min of my time.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I highly recommend Meguiar's products. I have always had good luck with them, inside and out on my cars.
  • ems1ems1 Member Posts: 48
    I bought a bottle of the 303 Aerospace Protectant a few months ago and been using it on my '02 Elantra and '03 Vue. I like it better than the Armor All because it doesn't leave a high gloss that reflects on the windshield which I find really annoying. Of course, can't tell if it is going to make the dash look better longer after a few months use but the dash does not seem to collect dust as much as before. Just had the brake recall done. Took about an hour. I haven't looked underneath yet to see what they did.
    I have over 13000 miles and have not had a bulb burn out yet.

    To csandste: Could your voltage regulator be overcharging a bit and blowing your bulbs out? I've seen that happen.
  • jjbondjjbond Member Posts: 9
    Ok, here's another set of questions for you. How important are the instructions in the Owner's Manual for breaking in the Elantra?

    For the first 1200 miles, are we really not supposed to go more than 55mph? (am I supposed to drive with hazards on along the side of the highway??)

    It says to keep RPM between 2,000 and 4,000, so does that mean we can't use the overdrive to get up to highway speed?

    I've still got 1,050 miles to go before its "broken-in", so I just wondered how strict these rules were....
  • jmessjmess Member Posts: 677
    Just use moderation. The engine was ran in at the factory when it was asembled. Nothing bad is going to happen if you drive 65 or rev the engine to 5000. The only rule I follow is trying not to drive at the same speed and rpm for extended periods and not flooring it. In an emergency situation you do what you have to do.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    According to the dealer, the original bulbs were replaced in 02 with other lamps which have a much longer life. Headlights are included in warranty work. I changed the first five, but the dealer installed bulbs do seem to have a longer life. There's been a lot of complaints about short bulb life, mostly from owners of '01's-- here and elsewhere. I think H7's are naturally a short lived bulb, hear complaints on other boards as well from the few makes that use them. Wish they'd go to cheaper, standard issue bulbs. Who cares if you have a BMW lamp? Big deal--just like the Michelin Energys they slapped on (IMHO a big cause of road noise reported in an earlier post, especially on concrete.) My cheapo replacement Tiger Paw HR's are a lot quieter and better handling as well. Look like they'll last longer too.

    I posted the tail light problem on a Hyundai specific board and was told to pull out through the trunk, but without the detail that you gave. I think the dealer's flat rate was .5 hours per bulb. For the life of me, I can't think of why they would make things so difficult unless it's to stir up some repair money for the dealer. Every other car has been a five minute job at most. When the weather's better I'll have another look at the assembly--this one did have three nuts and a rubber grommet but hatch area was larger than the surrounding fabric cover-- odd. No mention of tail light bulb replacement in the manual. They must want you to take it in.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    hey guys on mostly city driving using 87 octane how many miles do you get to a tank roughly? I have less than half a tank left and im not even at 200 miles yet.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    On mostly city driving, I'll sometimes get 200 miles on the first half of a tank, but usually it'll dip below 1/2 before 200 miles. I tend to run the tank down pretty low before I fill up (I know, pretty stupid) so I often get close to 400 miles per tank, but as I said, that's not a real good idea for any number of reasons. It's just a bad habit I have--"how many miles can I get out of this tank?"
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My '01 GLS--package 2, 5-speed, champagne--turned three yesterday. It has 23,750 miles. All stock--no mods. Still looks new, when washed (not today--rain). A few real small door dings and a couple of scratches on the front bumper. Tires still have good tread, and I think I can get another 10,000-15,000 miles out of them. Interior still looks (except the mats) and--unbelievably--smells new. My 12-year-old son doesn't like riding in my car, because it's "stinky". "What do you mean?", I ask. "It has that new-car smell!" Well, you can't please everyone.

    I've had few problems with my Elantra (see below), and no serious problems. In three years, it's been out of service for unscheduled work for only one hour that was the car's fault (bad O2 sensor); it has made some return trips to the dealer because they didn't fix some things right during scheduled maintenance stops, but I don't blame those on the car.

    The car drives better than when it was new. The engine has loosened up, as has the shifter. It feels a little quicker than new, but I've not timed it. Fuel economy has improved a lot, from 24-25 mpg when new to 28-30 now, in mostly city driving. I still love the exceptional driving position (one of the best I've ever found) and comfortable ride. On days when I drive to the park-and-ride and take a bus downtown, I can't wait to climb into my 'lantra and zip the rest of the way home.

    Total maintenance costs have been $312.85, all by the dealer. That includes oil/filter changes on the "severe" schedule, every 3750 miles or so. These costs were inflated by the 15,000 service, on which I failed to tell the service advisor NOT to do the "dealer recommended services" and just do the factory recommended services, and I got socked for $190. That won't happen again.

    Here's the problems I've had with the car; all repairs were done at no cost under warranty:

    - Some screw caps fell off the arm rests in the first few days, and some fell out of the car. I expect they weren't installed properly. New caps ordered and installed.
    - Engine raced on cold starts. Dealer said a computer flash was coming and they'd contact me. But after a few days, the problem disappeared and has not returned.
    - Rattle in dash at around 2500 RPMs. Dealer tried to fix the problem three times and took out most of the rattle. Now there's a faint buzz when accelerating, and only on a cold day when the car is cold.
    - Squeak in clutch pedal. Took three tries to fix it--the first time, they removed, cleaned, and lubed the throwout bearing; the second time, they lubed the clutch linkage and rod; the third time, they removed and cleaned the pin between the slave cylinder and clutch lever and added anti-seize, and it's been fine since.
    - Driver's door squeaked when opening. Dealer replaced door checker.
    - Engine light came on due to bad rear O2 sensor. Diagnosed and replaced in one hour, in and out, including a free wash. (Different dealer! I'd go back to them, but the dealer where I bought the car is more convenient.)
    - Wind noise from A pillar. Dealer did the TSB service but only replaced the weatherstripping on the driver's A pillar; the noise remains. I'll take it back when convenient.

    As I noted, the car was only out of service for unscheduled work once due to the fault of the car--for the O2 sensor. Fortunately, my dealer is close to an office where I can work and has a shuttle service, so it's very convenient to drop the car off in the morning, avoid parking fees all day, and get a lift back to pick up the car in the afternoon. The dealer also has free rental cars, which I've used one time when they kept the car overnight.

    Overall I've been very satisfied with my Elantra. I don't know what other compact I'd buy today if I had to make that choice. I'd like the dealer service to be a little more on the ball, but they have been good about trying to fix rattles even after the first year, and eventually they get the job done (and the shuttle is great). I also wish Hyundai would have the IIHS retest the Elantra on the frontal offset crash test, to erase that one black mark on the car.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    backy I have exactly 1/4 of a tank left and still not 200 miles (175 i think) isnt that kinda low even for city driving? Maybe because car is still new and hasnt worked itself in? I guess what is also throwing me off is that my last car the Galant had a 16.4 gallon tank.
  • themanxthemanx Member Posts: 110
    Very informative and sounds like your dealer does a great job of taking care of the few problems you did have.

    I have 2500 miles on my 03 GLS and contacted my
    dealer to see what price he charges for an oil change.. I was suprised they only charge $21.95! No reason to go anywhere else at that price. Plus I have some discounts on the first few oil changes.

    My point to your post, is I hope my 03 is built as good if not better than the older models and I will be satisfied.

    ElantraStan
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Did your door vinyl trim start to peel? I have my GT in the shop now to replace it and my mom's is also starting to curl at the base on the rear-bottom of the frame. The dealer also called me to let me know that the set they had was damaged and had to get another. You'd think that Hyundai would just tell the dealers to paint the door frames instead of the cost of the trim and a loaner. My loaner, btw, is a Mitsu Lancer. Roomy inside but the ride is bouncy and the upholstery is rough. I really miss my Hyundai!
  • 5port5port Member Posts: 395
    Copied from <http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp>

    REAR COMBINATION LAMP
    Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.

    Remove the nuts holding the rear combination lamp.

    Disconnect the connector and remove the lamp assembly.

     
    Installation is the reverse of removal.

    CENTER HIGH MOUNTED STOP LAMP
    Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.

    Pull up slightly and pull back the center high mounted stop lamp.

     
    Disconnect the connector from the harness and remove the lamp assembly.

     
    Installation is the reverse of removal.

    LICENSE PLATE LAMP
    Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.

    Remove the mounting bolt, and disconnect the lamp connector from the license plate lamp.

     
    Installation is the reverse of removal.
  • calamuscalamus Member Posts: 18
    Backy,
    Very happy that you are still satisfied with your EGT.
    I have had mine for 16 months and just shy of 33 000 miles. So far, nothing special to report except the scheduled maintenance ...and a cracked windshield in month 2 of ownership. As was mentioned elsewhere, it seems that the EGT 02MY have a fragile windshields. I would buy the same car anytime.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    No, no problems with the vinyl trim--I guess they used the Grade-A glue on my car. My Elantra's windshield has survived a bad hailstorm that caused $750 (paintless dent removal) damage to the top of the car and also two good smacks with rocks, and only a small star crack below the sightlline to show for it. Also no shimmy in the tires, paint problems, or premature bulb burnouts (knock on wood).
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Guys I looked under the hood of my new 03 Elantra GLS and noticed that the emissions sticker says my engine conforms to NLEV. Just wanted to make sure they did not slip me a vehicle meant for CA since I live in Louisiana. LOL
  • themanxthemanx Member Posts: 110
    Where do you live in LA? I live in Harahan and curious what dealer you bought your GLS from.. I got mine from Ray Brandt in Harvey.

    now.. what does NLEV mean?

    ElantraStan
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    I live in Lafayette. I bought mine from Courtesy Imports
  • jjbondjjbond Member Posts: 9
    I believe my new 03 GLS has it as well, the dealer said he wouldn't charge me for it. But from my understanding, states like CA and NY have special low emissions requirements (to cut back on smog and such). My dealer says that they often swap cars from here (NJ) to sell in NY, and had to make sure they didn't make another mistake in sending a non-NLEV car to NY. I believe it stands for "New Low Emissions Vehicle" or something like that. Obviously you can see the plus side of having a NLEV engine. I would like to know:
    a) what's the downside? (does it change gas milage or anything?)

    b) if there is no downside, why isn't this standard?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    "Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal.

    Remove the nuts holding the rear combination lamp.

    Disconnect the connector and remove the lamp assembly."

    Saw that on the Hyundai page and another web based repair database that the library has. It's pretty easy to say--take it apart, put it together". Guess I was just too dumb. Was able to undo the three nuts and disconnect wiring, but the bulb certainly didn't want to pull out of there and the cover certainly didn't want to come off. Hopefully this will do it for another 50,000+ miles.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Congratulations on your Elantra's third birthday. My Champagne '01 GLS has more mileage in just over two years and is doing just as well. Sounds like your service from this car has been as satisfying as mine. Wednesday will be the day for this car's first recall.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    ok I just filled up and I have 1300 miles on my car and on all city driving im getting 19mpg using 87 octane. Is that low?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Describe your driving habits.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    in what way?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Such as, when you start up, do you accelerate nice and easy, keeping RPMs down (under 3000 say) or do you like to rev it up in each gear? Do you upshift as soon as possible to keep revs down as low as possible (without lugging the engine)? Do you anticipate stops and ease off the gas early, or drive right up to a stop light and then brake hard? When on the highway, what is your speed? Also, what is the pressure in the tires? Do you run the a/c much?

    What I am getting at is, depending on your driving habits and driving conditions, 19 mpg in the city for the first 1000 miles is not that strange. I drive pretty moderately and I was getting around 24 mpg early on.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    I too averaged 19mpg in heavy city traffic until my odometer passed 6k. It has slowly gone up to 21-22mpg after 10k miles. The difference in engine response and smoothness has also improved.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Thx Kaz and Backy, guess I just wait for it to improve over time. Hey Backy I remember u mentioned that you used Scotch Guard, do I need to really let it dry a FULL 24 hours?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    When I use it I let it dry overnight, but that's in dry conditions, windows open. Wouldn't hurt to let it dry for 24 hours. Keep windows open at least a crack until fully dry (fumes).
  • obsidianblackobsidianblack Member Posts: 35
    We're getting 30mpg, combined city and highway driving. Believe it will continue to go up after it breaks in more and gets it's first oil change. Our's has 3000 miles on it.
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    ouch im getting 22 combined hwy and city driving :( 1340 miles here
  • themanxthemanx Member Posts: 110
    We are averaging about 24 mpg most of the time in the city.. not much highway driving. 2600 miles on the 03 GLS so far.

    obsidianblack have you changed your oil yet?
    curious..

    ElantraStan
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    are you all using the 87 octane like me or higher?
  • elantramanelantraman Member Posts: 24
    Gas mileage anywhere between 18 and 35 depending on the usual factors such as length of trip, highway, stop and go, traffic, weather etc, etc. Have 02 GT with auto.

    One tire is shot at this point (15K) Will probably replace all 4 at about 20K in spring. Any recommendations? Anybody do worse than me on tire mileage? As I've posted before, I never nor do any of my acquaintances get more than 30K out of tires.

    Local dealer advertising a $9,999 price for a GLS with auto, sunroof, remote entry, CD, antilock brakes! Includes $1,000 loyalty bonus and $400 college grad. Not bad?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I bought Royal TigerPaw GTH's at Wal-Mart. About $240 for four including lifetime rotation and repair. Much more satisfactory than the over-rated OEM Energies.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Looks like the Elantra has moved up to "above average" predicted reliability from the most recent CR data, up from "average". This is good news. Now if something could be done about that "poor" rating in offset crash tests ...

    Had recall performed today. My service department took care of this quickly and courteously. I am coming close to 36K miles in a little over two years.
  • obsidianblackobsidianblack Member Posts: 35
    Themanx: No, haven't changed the oil yet, but will very shortly. Have got close to 3000 miles on the '03. Dealer wants us to bring it in after 5000 miles. I think that's just too much!
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    How do you all seem to put such low mileage on your cars?!? I wish I could do that...

    I had an 02 Jetta that was 18 months old when totalled, it had 40K. Of course back then, I was commuting about 100 miles daily. My new car, bought 7/9/03, now has 9300 miles on it with less of a commute. I think I just drive too much, but they're made to be driven, right? :)
  • iusecadiusecad Member Posts: 287
    bought a new F-250 in Nov of '02; I drove it Monday and it rolled over to 52k...
  • themanxthemanx Member Posts: 110
    I know it is overkill to change at 3000 miles, but I like to get my first oil change done sooner than needed to make sure the engine gets fresh lube.

    Of course that would mean that my wife would have to give it to me for a day to get it done. She has a 02 Jeep Grand Cherokee that she likes, sunroof and the works.. but I think she likes to drive the Elantra more.

    The reason I got the Elantra is because she did not like driving her 97 Sebring convertible I restored for her... women! go figure! I traded it in and she loves the Elantra.

    ElantraStan
    http://www.stanarseneaux.com/elantra/
    My 03 Elantra GLS
  • obsidianblackobsidianblack Member Posts: 35
    Just fueled up yesterday. Got 25 mpg strictly in town driving. Can't wait to get the oil changed! I know,too,that it sounds like overkill to change it @ 3000 miles. But I feel the same way, I wanna get fresh oil in it. Somehow I feel compelled to go to the dealer at least the first few times for the oil changes, then maybe to a Jiffylube after that and keep receipts for proof. Gotta believe the mpg's will go up after the first oil change, not that I'm complaining. I think mine's right on where it should be.
      What do all of you think about the literature you've gotten after buying your Elantras? Never had any other manufacturer (Ford and Chrysler) send stuff out like that.
      So far, VERY satisfied!
  • ellandryellandry Member Posts: 66
    Hey obsidian I agree totally on the amount of surveys etc that they send out I think its awesome. I feel like I bought a $50,000 car instead of 12,000 :) As for gas mileage I am not complaining but I sure hope mine goes up after first oil change @ 3000 (im at 1700 now) cuz im getting like 19-20 in strictly city driving and im making sure that I drive conservatively.
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