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They have held up surprisingly well considering what I have put it through. May times racing down dirt/gravel roads and carrying home a full load from the home improvement store (yes its a wagon).
Yes I have notice slight increase in noises, including some increase in road noises (but it was never know for muffling road noise), but considering the mileage and age I am not to overly concerned about it.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I am of the same opinion. I figure as long as there are no tire wear issues, and as long as it handles well without bouncing down the road, I will leave well enough alone. Besides, the radio is loud enough to drown out the road noise.
Help!
We then started going to a different Hyundai dealer for our service. They were pretty good. However, the owner sold his land and building to a developer that is going to build a shopping center in its place.
Now, one of my other cars is a Mitsubishi Outlander and I have received excellent service over the past couple of years from my Mitsubishi delaer. I was thinking I would have them do the next tranny flush.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Then again, the inspection may just find a bad spring. Fix it and drive happy!
Jim
From their website:
"Our unique database contains more than four billion records. We receive information from thousands of public and private sources including all Departments of Motor Vehicles (DMVs) in the United States and Canada, as well as many vehicle inspection stations, auto auctions, fleet management and rental agencies, automobile manufacturers, and fire and police departments."
They also state:
"While we'll never know everything about a particular car..."
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Then I'd park it on a level surface and get a tape measure and check the distance from the ground to the top fender lip.
If the passenger side is an inch lower I'd say the previous owner had a 400 lb wife and the spring is sagging/warn out.
Or it was in an accident.
Right now I'm up to 1000 miles, and I'm curious as to how much longer I'll have before I have to worry about this.
(For the record - I'm in California, mostly over flat roads, and not huge amounts of stop and go traffic. Moderate city and freeway driving.)
In my case, I drive 50+ miles a day in stop and go traffic. I change the oil every 3K miles. I wouldn't consider a 7.5K oil change for anything other than pure highway driving, and even then I don't think the cost of an extra oil change a year is worth the risk.
Jim
My son just hit a rock in the road last week, blew out one of those tires and slid into a guardrail. The damages this time were about $400.... $200 for a new half-shaft (boot got torn up and they don't replace just the boot), $110 for bent tie rod, plus an alignment. I had to buy a new rim at a junk yard, cuz the old one was pretty bent up between the rock and the guard rail. The tire was remounted and balanced under my road hazard warranty for free (it was still good).
I thought that sounded high at the time, so that's why I was curious what the replacement of the Elantra strut ran.
My buddy did have his Buick struts replaced at the Buick dealer...that may be part of the reason for the price. Glad to hear that you got BOTH for $390. I am thinking of replacing the ones on my '02 in a year or so. By then it should have @ 90K miles on it. As long as the car still runs perfect, and everything still works on it then, I will probably go ahead and replace the struts.
I have taken the wheel off and put it back on to make sure the wheel isn't loose. I have also checked the housing for that drum brake assembly, inspected everything I can see under the car, and nothing is visibly loose. I am wondering if maybe that strut is a little weak, and is amplifying the road noise, or if that wheel bearing is possibly making the noise.
I was thinking of even swapping out the sway bar/bushings/links for the 18mm in the near future (I will probably go with the 18mm since the sedan is a little lighter than the hatchback). However, I want to make sure everything else is ok back there before I do so.
Shaz
The problem is that I was offering such a large down payment that I didn't meet the minimal loan amount. So they sold me an extended warranty.
Now, this really appears to be an extension to the warranty - it's through Hyundai (who I bought the car from), there's no deductible, and none of the exclusions seem to be odd or restrictive. Basically it extends the bumper-to-bumper warranty from 5yr/60k to the full 10yr/100k.
But is it worth it? I mean, I still have some time to cancel it, and get some of my money back - money I could use for other things, and even though I'll lose a bunch on the interest inflation, over time, I'm not really hurting in terms of monthly payments.
So...keep the extended warranty, or dump it? Anyone have experiences with this sort of thing?
If you plan on doing regular maintenance, get your money back.
I would guess that it's transferrable the same way that the standard Hyundai warranty is - that is to say 1/2 credit at best. But I still plan on keeping it the full 100k...
And isn't the transmission part of the powertrain, that is covered under the longer, standard warranty?
You are right the auto tranny is covered under the standard warranty--but that is not transferrable. I think the extended warranty is transferrable in its entirety--check the documentation you should have received on it.
"backy" said - "About $500 too much based on quotes I've received on that warranty on Elantras. If I were you I'd try to get the money back, then shop around for a better price (closer to $1000) if you really want the warranty"
Question is - will it cost "tsgeisel" $500 or more in increased interest over the course of the loan if he/she were to cancel the extended warranty and then go purchase another for $1000. If the answer is yes, he/she should just sit tight.