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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • perenetperenet Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 elantra. Lately when I accelerate, the car pulls left. Once I ease off the gas, the car wanders to the right. It's significant enough that in cruise control, it's almost impossible to maintain a straight line as the engine engages and eases off. I expect some pull when the front wheels accelerate but this is excessive. Any ideas on possible cause?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Front end alignment, or a bad front tire. Either one will cause the problem you describe. Quick test would be to swap the tires front to back and see if the problem changes. You didn't mention the mileage on the car, but if it is above 60K it would be worth checking the steering and suspension components for wear.
  • omthkomthk Member Posts: 5
    I have 2001 Elantra. Lately alarm goes off on ot's own. Is there any way can I dis alarm it.
  • erg135erg135 Member Posts: 3
    i'm not sure but if you take out the alarm fuse it might stop, not sure though.or just take it in the dealer and they'll reconfigure your system
  • perenetperenet Member Posts: 2
    the front tires have a year on them (not many miles). I had it aligned when the tires were installed a year ago. The rear tires are older and are more worn (but still well within acceptable tread). Car has 90K+ miles.

    I'll take your advice to have steering and suspension checked.

    Thanks.
  • disney_momdisney_mom Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    I am particularly interested in your comment about the Wire Harness. Can you tell me if you have any pictures of the corrosion, and or copies or the repair work? I am a 2007 owner of the Elantra and while my year was not represented in the recall, it appears that I experienced some of the same issues that the prior models experienced. I am looking to speak with any owner who had wire harness issues on the Elantra models from "01-06" Please contact me at mom2onegurl@gmail.com, if you are willing to talk to me about this.

    Thanks in Advance for your time,

    Chrystle
  • disney_momdisney_mom Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    I am looking to speak to any Hyundai Elantra owners who had a "01-06" model that had to have their wire harness replaced. Please contact me at mom2onegurl@gmail.com. Thank you in advance

    Chrystle

    :mad: :cry: :mad: :confuse:
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I finally took my car in to have the window guide replaced on both rear doors. Now I know this is more than just a trim piece. Covered under warranty (time is running out!) and the car looks great.

    The next focus will be on paintless dent removal, thanks to some careless jackass neighbors who have no idea how to open their doors, or better still, to park far enough from my car to prevent these dings. This and having my wheels painted, as the black finish is faded and noticeable through the wheel cover openings. Little things, but it's really all the car needs right now. I think I may have bought the last set of beige genuine Hyundai Elantra floormats available. Hard to find.

    Next milestone coming up: 97,000 miles! :D
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Went to replace the rear brakes for the 1st time on my 01 automatic w/ 150K on it. Surprisingly, they hardly looked worn at all...too unworn. When compared to the new shoes, I couldn't even tell the difference. The drums were slightly scoured with minor wear. This is at least the 2nd set of front brakes though. Was wondering if this is normal for the Elantra or whether there is an underlying problem. The brakes seem to function just "ok".
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Went to the local tire shop for a set of new front tires the other day. The tech called me over to show me something (ugh..), and as it turned out, I'm glad he did. The entire left control arm had rotted completely through, and I mean completely.
    I couldn't believe it. The right one had been replaced before due to an earlier accident.
    Found out after the repair the Hyundai just released a recall for this in April 09. But beware, this is a very, very dangerous situation and should be checked asap, especially here in the N.E. where there is plenty of salt on the roads in the winter.
  • jesusfreak777jesusfreak777 Member Posts: 1
    I have purchased a 2005 Elantra for my son. The dealership gave us 2 programmed remotes. I secured a third remote that will work with the vehicle but needs programmed. Hyundai service said their software will only allow 2 active programmed remotes at a time. I need to figure out how to get this third remote programmed so my wife, son, and I can all have access to his car. Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and may God bless.
    Jack
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Might try this.
    http://www.autokeyprogramming.com
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There is another discussion here for Hyundai Elantra, on Security Systems, that has some good info in it, for example:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f9c9e/6#MSG6

    Unfortunately, that post confirms what you already heard about the fact that only 2 remotes can be set up to work with an 2005 Elantra at one time. The way I take care of this issue in my family of 3 drivers (4 when my oldest son is home from college) is hang all the key fobs on hooks by the door leading to the garage, so there's almost always one handy when someone needs to take a particular car. It doesn't always work, as fobs end up in purses or pockets, but it helps.
  • flasher1flasher1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 hyundai elantra which is now idling at a faster
    than normal rpm. This produces the OBD2 code PO507 which
    means "idle control system RPM higher than expected". Does
    anyone know what could be causing this?
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Does it idle consistently, or is it uneven?
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    The website replied to my inquiry regarding this that the key can possibly be "cloned" from an existing key by a locksmith that does key transponders.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    As I said in an earlier post, my wheels are either faded or starting to slightly rust on the surface, noticeable through the wheel cover openings. When I have my state inspection and tire rotation on the 22nd, I will ask my mechanic to spray a coat of black on the wheels. Does anyone have suggestions on what is the best type or brand of wheel paint for this job? Since the rims are mostly covered, I don't need to be terribly picky, but I will always notice the fading. As we all know, it isn't a matter of just popping off wheel covers, since they are bolted on.

    Also, has anyone noticed the speed of their wipers slowing down significantly in colder temps? I suggested it as a warranty replacement, but it isn't happening constantly so they won't cover it. Paying for it out of pocket would not be a big deal, as I put very little money into my car as it is. I might just as well replace the wiper arms at the same time, as they are starting to rust. Idea? Suggestions? Ballpark price for parts and labor?

    Thanks all!
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Any chance the wiper problem is really a battery or alternator problem? I remember that was the first sign I noticed of impending alternator failure in an old Honda I used to own. If the blower motor slows down or the headlights don't seem as bright as usual, those are also symptoms.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Battery is still strong, and the alternator is original, but the only time the wiper problem shows up is in the cold of winter or some of our recent cold and rainy spring mornings. Other times the wipers run as normal, and all other electrical seems normal.

    I'm inclined to nip this in the bud before winter or before the wiper motor fails altogether.
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    In May of this year, my control arm just snapped , from rot, while taking a turn off a main drag. Luckily I was only going 5-10 mph. When it snapped, there was an awful grinding noise, like I was dragging something underneath my car. Wasn't until the tow truck came, did I know what it was. Had my own mechanic replace it, since I have never had good luck with the Hyundai mechanics. Then found out it that this was a recall. They are supposed to be reimbursing me, and told me it would take 4-6 weeks to get the check. Haven't seen it yet. How long does it take to get a check mailed out.
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Probably about as long as it takes them to get the recall notification out. I haven't seen that yet either and it was released in May. Bet you're glad it didn't happen on a turnpike doing about 65-70! I considered myself lucky cause I'm on the highway all the time...and I don't drive 65 either.
  • elantraownerelantraowner Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Just had a brake service and the service tech said he recommended next time that I have an injector cleaning service, throttle body, etc. I am aware of "recommended" add on's the dealer's try to put in that are necessary, but it seems that some time back I read a post on this blog site that the Hyundai Tech manual specifically said NOT to clean the throttle body. Anyone recall this?
  • elantraownerelantraowner Member Posts: 16
    I meant to say in my previous post that I was aware of dealer add ons that are "not" necessary.. I also found a response in 2004 that "Carbon in throttle body" does not effect the system and that it should not be cleaned.
  • elantraownerelantraowner Member Posts: 16
    2002 Hyundai Elantra GT again. Dealer Tech says the driver side window motor is not working properly. It seems to me the motor sticks briefly when first try to open on occasion or maybe it is a short in the switch on the door. Has not been a serious problem to me, in fact I seldom notice as it seems to be only a brief hesitation the first time I try to open the window. The Dealer advises that it will be $317 to replace motor. Is this something that any reasonably competent mechanic can replace and is the part available much cheaper over the internet?
  • jshepp13jshepp13 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have bought a 2004 elantra gt
    with the dual overhead cam set up
    will any damage happen if a timming belt
    problem (break) happens?
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    If you are due to have a timing belt change, I suggest you change it. Because if the timing belt snaps in the midst of traffic... your car will just stop. This happened to a friend of mine.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Not only will the car stop, but the engine will likely be trashed. Don't put off a timing belt change on an Elantra.
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Any timing belt that breaks can spell disaster.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    More of a disaster on interference engines, like the Elantra has.
  • doohickiedoohickie Member Posts: 949
    Sometimes a broken timing belt simply results in the car stalling out unexpectedly and can be restarted. This happens on "non-interference" engines. I have a 1995 Escort that this happened with. It was a $250 repair; about the same as if I took it in for a timing belt change.

    The Elantra, on the other hand, as an "interference" engine, so if the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves will collide and the engine will be trashed. Don't put off a timing belt change on an Elantra.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Hey, where ya been?!?!?!
  • newhartfordnewhartford Member Posts: 49
    2003 Elantra 5M with 73K miles. This year was uneventful other than the emergency brake froze up and had to be replaced. I've had this on other cars - just don't remember at what age. Other than front brakes everything is original. I keep waiting for the battery to die but so far so good. I'm seeing a little rust at the rear wheel wells at the parting line of the metal panel and plastic bumper wrap around.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Wow, if you are on the original battery you got a winner!
  • hmownerhmowner Member Posts: 23
    Car runs great, but inconvenient issues are popping up

    - Check Engine Light recently came up - P0456 (EVAP Emission System - Leak Detected - Very Small Leak). Decided not to "fix" the problem at the dealer since the car runs fine and where I live (Indiana) does not require inspection. Dealer could not guarantee that after testing the EVAP system, they will find the exact root cause. They asked for 1 hour labor at least. I had the code read at AutoZone and I reset the DTC myself by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for few minutes. However, the light comes back up in few weeks later with the same DTC. Leak must be due to something other than the gas cap.

    - driver side windows switch "broke". The spring that pushes up the switch somehow got loose and the switch will get set to "down" mode if I touch it forcing the window to go down automatically. It's a nuisance but I have to gently release the switch after I raise the window to prevent it from changing to "down" mode again. Decided not to replace the whole switch module at the dealer due to $$$.

    - CD player no longer works. It cannot read any CD's. I cleaned out the head using aftermarket cleaner. It will read a CD for a while, but will skip like crazy. Radio at least works. If I miss the CD player, I may decide to put in a after market CD player.

    - I had to replace fuel filter last week ( http://www.elantraxd.com/DIY/fuel.php ) myself because the dealer wanted to charge 1.5 hour labor + parts. I am NOT a DIY person at all (not even oil change), so this was a challenge. I had to remove the back seat and dig up the fuel pump AND disassemble the pump... I am just glad that the car started again after it was done.

    - With A/C on during hot weather, sometime I hear a loud noise that sounds as if a rubber is sliding on metal. Possible belt slip some where?

    - I warp the rotor during emergency stop at a highway... Car vibrates around 40 - 30 mph when I brake now... Another trip to garage is needed and few hundred dollars will be spent to either machine the rotor or replace them.

    - front and rear shocks have lost some of it's capacity so that when I go over some bump at highway speed, the car sways more than it used to.

    - Engine sounds a lot rougher and sometime I can hear metallic noise on cold starts these days but gets better (purrs ) when it warms up.

    FYI - I read somewhere that 2001 Elantra engine was built to last 180K miles, so I guess i have about 50K more miles to go...

    With my reluctance to spend extra money on minor repairs, I am being forced ( happily I think) to take on more maintenance work myself.
    ---
    Minor workaround I use

    - If the car wont' start (but crank only) on the first try, turn off the key, set it to on again and (wait till the fuel pump stops ) then start again.

    - If the engine seems to sputter on the first start in the morning, give it a little gas to rev up the rpm to about 2500 to 3000 and it will clear up whatever issue it was experiencing. The same goes for the situation when the car seems to hesitate before it will accelerates.

    - headlight cover is "fogged up". I found "workaround" from internet where I wet sandpapered the cover using 2000 grit sandpaper and then used regular polishing compound to make it smooth, and finally applied wax to make it almost new again.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    Re: CEL. Watch your fuel economy. If it starts getting much worse, you should probably get it fixed.

    Re: Window switch. Look for a replacement at a junk yard or online. They're relatively easy to replace (pop off door panel and it shouldn't be hard from there). Should be way easier than that fuel filter you did.

    Re: CD player. Agreed. After-market units will be less expensive and have better capabilities (MP3, etc.).

    Re: AC noise. Agreed; probably a belt slipping.

    Re: Brake rotors. A year or two ago my wife's '01 Elantra (GLS, 71K miles) needed to have them turned. The shop with the machine was closed (Saturday afternoon) but I found out new rotors were only about $25 each v. the $12 it would cost to turn them. So she got new rotors and the good brake pads for under $90. Her brother in law did the installation (he's an ASE mechanic).

    Re: Fogged headlights. I'll have to keep that in mind. Her car is showing signs of it but it isn't bad just yet.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    My check engine light used to go on all the time, right after I purchased the car in 2002, after I got gas, and the dealer assumed that it was from the vapor getting in from the gas cap. His recommendation was to turn the cap 4 to 5 times. If I recall, it did happen once after that, and I finally had the check engine light disconnected.

    My driver side window switch also broke...but have not had it repaired. I just pull it back up when it goes all the way down. Not worth the money to have it repaired right now.

    My car used to vibrate when I braked also, but it ended up being the problem of the control arm. The control arm will rust with wear, so be sure you have that checked. There is now a recall on all 2001 control arms. Mine snapped in half after existing off a highway...very dangerous. Once the control arm was repaired, my car no longer vibrates when I brake.

    My suspension is getting worse and noticeable when I go over bumps in the road. However, it doesn't seem as bad if I let the car warm up, and slow down the acceleration before I take off.

    Unfortunately, the servicemen at my Hyundai Dealer are not good at all, and have found that my own garage mechanic does a better job . May people, including myself, have had to go back twice to them to get a minor job fixed, when my garage mechanic was able to repair it on the first try. I strugged with awful breaks for 2 years, because they could never fix them right, but my mechanic did.
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    Believe it or not, I have received the reimbursement for the control arm repaired. It took almost 9 weeks, and a few reminders from me. But at least I received it.
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    Had to have my transmission sensors replaced. They transmission didn't go...the car just wouldn't switch gears. They fixed one, and then the other one went. Since I have had them both replaced, the car has run fine, and have had no transmissin problem.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    After being told a month ago by my servicing dealer that there "isn't a recall" for my car, I decided to call Hyundai to inquire. Sure enough, there is a recall, just as NHTSA said. This is the control arm recall for rust-belt states, and interestingly, it is the first recall that I have NOT received in the mail. Anyway, it will be looked at on Tuesday and I am not all that comfortable with an inspection, some holes drillled, and rustproofing being applied. I want replacement parts.

    The other issue is the return of a rub-rub-rub sound on each rotation of the front wheels, whether I am coasting or in gear. A different dealer that will NOT be getting my business anymore has supposedly replaced wheel bearings under warranty, but I am quite suspicious. My more trusted dealer will look at it and decide. I think the first dealer should get a smack-down from Hyundai if they lied about this work.

    It is interesting to me how some dealers and shops talk to people or sometimes hide their non-work as if we don't know what's going on. It doesn't happen to me often, but when it does I get irritated. How could I not know what's "normal" or not on this car, the only one I drive, on which I am the one who has put 98,000 miles? Give me a break. OK, I'm through. ;)

    Mine is a 2001 GLS 5-speed. Just had her 8th birthday, and just about to roll 98K. Great little car.
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    The only way I found it was going to be on a recall, is when I looked it up in the Hyundai Web...at that time it had not turned into a recall as yet, but they still honored all the information I sent them. I had my own mechanic do the work on the control arm, only because that's where I had my car towed to. Of course, the whole arm had to be replaced because it snapped, so I didn't have to deal with the drilling of holes and rust proofing. By then it was too late. I did keep the parts, in case they refused to reimburse me.
    Truthfully, I don't trust my hyundai service dept., and sounds like your dealer is just as bad. It sounds like the new hyundais are getting better, but that doesn't mean the dealer is any better. This is the first dealer that I've brought my car to, that the service dept has no clue on how to fix a car.

    They also told me, when they inspected the control arm after it had been replaced that they thought they could hear coming from exhaust and suggested that I have a new exhause put in, because they didn't think it would pass inspection. Fortunately it did, so again, they were full of crap, and just wanted me to give them more money. I don't trust them. Actually someone should report these people.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I guess I got lucky with my dealer. When I had my Elantra's ('02, '05) they were great about service work and warranty work.

    What tells a lot about a dealer is when they come in and say something like "While we had your car on the rack the tech took a look at everything underneath. All looks good, and he says you should look at the brakes in another 10k or so."

    This sort of thing happened regularly with both my cars. They even knew I did a lot of my own repair, and the shop foreman would comment that so-and-so parts were good for this or that repair, but Hyundai parts should be used for some other repair. He was very specific about brake pads. He was right, the aftermarket stuff came with good pads, the Hyundai pads came with thicker pads and all the shims and springs.
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Too bad you're taking it to the dealer. The best way to fix this is locally, and getting reimbursed by Hyundai. That's what I did. New parts, no cost. Hey, the way I look at it, if they don't want to send the recall out, oh well...

    Re: the rubbing noise...if a little pressure applied on the brakes makes it go away, then you know where to look.

    Good luck.
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    FYI...As I previously posted, I did get reimbursed on the repair of the Control Arm. My own mechanic did it , all new parts, and it automatically comes with the rust proofing so they say, and my car feels better than it did when I bought it. I wouldn't let Hyundai do it...it's only a patch job.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    The more trusted of two dealer choices inspected the control arms and used the "drill and coat" method. Only Hyundai dealers are to do recall work, as Hyundai will tell you. I would have preferred parts, but I will have my independent mechanic inspect it soon when the brakes are done.

    The rub-rub-rub is from warped rotors, as I should have guessed. Any time tires are rotated or brakes are inspected, mechanics seem to enjoy torquing lug nuts as tightly as they can, and many of us here know this results in warped rotors. Then again, it has been THREE years since my front brake pads and rotors were replaced, so I've done OK with the pads, and I expect someone to warp my rotors at some point; I'm rarely disappointed. :P I was surprised I had gone so long between brake jobs. On the whole, I have put relatively little money into this car in eight years, and it is still a champ.

    If I walk out and push the car another inch it'll roll 98,000 miles. I'm on the cusp of losing my great warranty protection, including the bumper to bumper I extended at purchase. There is no question that I would buy another Hyundai. When I included it in my choices eight years ago, it was with a healthy dose of skepticism. This little car has far exceeded my expectations. Edmunds needs a peach Emotorcon that happy drivers like me can use. ;)
  • sweetchariotsweetchariot Member Posts: 9
    Well, the control arm was repaired right before it became a recall, and when it did get a recall I didn't even get a notice on it...so, as far as I'm concerned, they can't blame anyone for taking the job to their own mechanic when the piece breaks without warning. I didn't know what it was, and didn't know it had a recall until after I had it repaired. I looked on the web just for the heck of it, and that's when I heard there were problems on this part. Most hyundai dealers are probably good at what they do, unfortunately, the one in our area cannot be trusted...too many people have had problems with this one.
  • besmithbesmith Member Posts: 13
    Hey if you don't mind how much did you pay? Im looking for a 2005-2006 elantra witha sunroof, but i dont want to pay 10k that most dealer are charging.
  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    selling price was $8800 + tax and title. I'm satisfied, think we got a good deal.
  • kcdonahoe1kcdonahoe1 Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Elantra started having trouble in idle about three weeks ago. RPM would shoot up and down between 2000 and 3500 wildly while it was in park or neutral, it was fine when in gear. Computer indicated a problem with idle air control so I cleaned the throttle body, and IAC, but the problem persisted with the addition of a malfunctioning throttle sensor! Mechanic in town recommnended I replace both the IAC and throttle sensor, which I did, but all problems still persist. I thinking the entire computer is whacked! Any suggestions? Please!

    Kevin
  • johngottsjohngotts Member Posts: 8
    Check for a cracked vacuum hose on the top of the engine going from just left of the throttle body to the intake manifold. The hose is about 4" long and is shaped like an "S". You'll see it at the rear edge of the black engine cover, slightly to the right. The cover has to be removed to replace it.
  • dria24dria24 Member Posts: 32
    Hello:
    I have a 2001 elantra whose milage is 167,058. I keep change my oil every 3,000 miles. I started to hear a tiny sound around the engine, I normally use 10/40 Sensitive good grade oil. I was told that I should go to a thicker oil in the winter time, 10/30 or 20/ something???? Please give me some advice as to what oil should changed to if needed , otherwise the car is running good and plan on keeping it for sometime. can someone respond ASAP, I need an oil change tomorrow.
    thanks Dria24
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