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Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    No more oil change discussions! It's been discussed to death here and on every other forum. If you prefer a 3000 mile interval over the manufacturer's recommendation, by all means, do it. You won't miss the extra $400 it will cost over the next 100,000 miles, you won't extend your engine life, and you won't materially affect world oil reserves. Don't worry, be happy.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    QUESTION: ---- Why does this topic annoy so many people? --- If we follow your advice, we will not have anything to discuss! You see, you were 90% correct in your posting until you stated that: ----"you won't extend your engine life"! -----But, have a "GREAT NEW YEAR". We will pick up this heated discussion in 2005. Remember, the same engineers that advocate "extended oil and filter change intervals for Honda vehicles", designed the V6 automatic transmission that everyone is talking about on these boards. How can they be "so right" on one issue, and "so wrong" on another issue?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Why waste bandwidth telling others what they shouldn't discuss?

     

    It's all very relevant to extending engine life. Many change at 10K whether it needs it or not and then trade the car at 80K. They've saved money but the next owner somewhere down the road gets a car with excess wear. I personally keep cars long enough that it matters. I've never had an oil burner because I keep my cars well maintained, as do some others on this board.

     

    Happy New Year, to _everyone_ on the board.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "If we follow your advice, we will not have anything to discuss!"

     

    You may be right. I guess there aren't enough topics to support new areas for discussion on any given vehicle. That's why the same info keeps coming up.

     

    Regarding engine life, can you produce any objective (i.e., not anecdotal) data that indicates more frequent (than the mfr's recommendation) oil changes extend engine life?

     

    I'm going to unsubscribe. I don't want to annoy anyone else with my posts. See ya!
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    Greg,

         Very seldom are we in agreement, these forums should be open for any discussion and shorter oil & filter changes will extend engine life. I am presently changing at 5k or 4mos whichever comes first. Still, no additions of Marvel Mystery Oil.LOL.

     

        Imadizol, as the one poster said, go to bobistheoilguy.com you will get all the info you need on what tests have bee performed on oil and oil filters.

     

        "Happy New Year to all"
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    bobistheoilguy.com you will get all the info you need

     

    I don't find any where that they dissected oil filters to see how much is actually trapped...

    Can you provide a link?

     

    I did get lost again reading interesting and sometimes nonscientific 'testing' of parts.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    Increasingly discontent with the 4-cylinder engine in my ’05 Accord LX sedan, I traded it in with just 1,754 miles on the clock. What I bought instead is the car I should have bought five weeks ago, an LX-V6.

     

    It was a tough decision – the LX 4-cylinder was a very good car. The power was adequate – enough to make the car feel fairly fast. On the highway at 70mph (2,200rpm), I couldn’t have asked for a smoother or quieter engine. Even with drums in the rear, the brakes were excellent. With a manual transmission, this car could be a fun, almost sporty sedan. Unfortunately, the smooth but early-shifting automatic often left the engine in a rough band between idle and 2,000rpm. Keeping the revs above the roughness required using lots of throttle. Then too, engine noise was more pronounced than I would have liked and as a package my LX felt somewhat light and insubstantial (coming from a ’97 Mitsubishi Diamante with 3.5L V6 automatic). Too much “economy feel” for my tastes and not enough “luxury feel”.

     

    In contrast, the V6 is dead smooth at idle and at every rpm. I’m surprised at how much heavier the steering feels but with the bigger engine, the overall effect is to make the car feel larger, more substantial and more refined. Power at all rpms is WAY more than I’d ever need and it’s smoothness is a speeding ticket waiting to happen. With the V6 underfoot, my sense is of driving a powerful and expensive car.

     

    I’m 6’1” and in the LX 4-cylinder I drove with the seat all the way back yet wishing for more tilt in the seat cushion to support my thighs. The power seat in the LX-V6 moves back even farther than I need and the infinite adjustability makes it easy to find the perfect seat position.

     

    I considered the EX-V6 – for about three seconds. For one, I’m not a fan of leather seats. I paid extra once for a car with a factory sunroof and then never used it except to vent the car when parked in the summer. Alloy wheels look nice but add nothing to my driving experience. The extra money wasn’t worth it just to get the integrated XM radio alone (nice feature though).

     

    My original decision to by the LX 4-cylinder was based on too much reading and not enough test driving. I took a big hit trading in a new car but my mistake wasn’t getting any better as the weeks passed. Now I can stop agonizing over my decision and just enjoy owning my V6 Accord. I hope this helps someone else avoid making an expensive mistake either one way or another.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    i considered the LX V6. i refuse to drive a car without alloy wheels - no plastic wheel covers for me - so i would have to have the alloys added. considering the additional "stuff" with the EX V6, the price difference between a LX V6 w/alloys and the EX V6 wasn't large enough for me.

     

    so i went with the EX V6. the EX V6 will probably have better resale value too.

     

    for me, one of the advantages of the i4 accord is the "lighter" feel. it's not only the manual transmission that make the i4 accord more sporty but the lighter engine over the front wheels.
  • xcelxcel Member Posts: 1,025
    Hi Ktnr:

     

    ___First off, what did you pay for the 05 Accord LX I4 w/ Auto and what did the Honda Dealership give you for your 05 Accord LX in trade for the Accord LX V6? Was it in the area of 15 to low 16’s?

     

    ___Thanks in advance.

     

    ___Wayne R. Gerdes
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    Life is TOO SHORT to own the WRONG CAR! Enjoy your new ride. -----Greg
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    You seem to have learned the lesson the wise young sage Britney Spears taught us - If you buy the wrong thing (or marry the wrong person) then get rid of it.

     

    Now it appears that both of you have found happiness.

     

    But will you keep your new Honda as long as she will keep her current husband?
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    Gee, now shucking a wife is no different than trading in a car you don't like?
  • bycbyc Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Canadian version Accord EX and am planning to import it to the States from Canada. I have the letter from Honda USA stating that it meets all the safety and EPA standards except some instrument panel labeling differences.

    Will I be able to import and register this car in the States without converting the gauges (from kilometers to miles)? Thanks!
  • navyacnavyac Member Posts: 3
    I bought an 05 Accord EX 4cyl and am very happy with the car except for one thing. The car pulls noticeably to the right or left depending on what lane of the highway im in. I know it sounds weird but when in the right lane it pulls to the right and i have to hold it off center to keep it going straight, aand vice versa on the left lane. It doesnt ever just drive straight, I took it to the dealer and supposedly they fixed it but it still pulls and is annoying. Is this just the Accord or do I have a mechanical issue? Im curious to know if anyone else experiences this or any afvice?
  • nomorev8nomorev8 Member Posts: 9
    Good day all and happy new year!

     

    This has been a great resource that Edmunds has made available to us. I've spent a lot of time reading through all the posts in the various accord forums over the past months. Thank you all, I have found the information here quite useful. I'd like to now share with others how I came to bring the Honda Accord home to my family.

     

    First, my history. S. California V-8 Pony guy all the way. All my cars have been Mustang GTs, manual transmission, V-8, etc..I've had four. Unfortunately, I started to realize that the Mustang was no longer fitting my lifestyle...and I wanted more.

     

    I wanted a car that was less noisy, more economical (fuel, insurance), and more friend friendly (The 2 door mustang with a postage stamp backseat is not friend friendly). I also wanted something with some cool 'gadgets' and a more luxurious interior.

       

    So, I turned my search towards:

    Passat, Jetta, 3-series, C-class, TSX, Maxima, Mazda, etc. Being an engineer, I was very thorough and analytical. I created a comparison chart that took into account all the key properties, reviews and parameters of each of the cars in the class. When I had completed my research, the Honda Accord Sedan came out on top by far.

     

    The Accord had the best features (performance, safety, looks, interior, etc) for the best cost.

     

    I knew exactly what I wanted...almost. White, tan leather interior. The only question, V-6 or I-4. Hmmm...the only way to answer that...the test drive. And should I get the navigation? Hmmm...

     

    I decided I wanted to get the car this weekend (New Years Weekend) to take advantage of the low 1.9% financing...so it was time to move.

     

    First, I've heard (read) lots of good things about the I-4 manual transmission. I knew coming off of a life of V-8s there would be SUBSTANTIAL power loss but I was prepared. All in all, the I-4 was impressive and not nearly as powerless as I thought it would be. But what killed it for me was the noisy engine and the rather impotent shifter. I'll keep Freud out of this but the shifter in the 4 cylinder Accord was much too small for my liking...it made me feel like I was in a weak car. I also took out the 4 cylinder automatic. The constant shifting and reving during my brief test drive in city conditions killed the car for me. It wasn't for me.

     

    OK, then on to the 6. After one right turn into traffic I knew this was the car for me. First, it was quiet, very quiet. Second, it had great power. Again, it wasn't a V-8 and I knew that, but I thoroughly enjoyed my ride. It went when I wanted to just fine and got me where I wanted to go. The interior was wonderful, I loved the dual power seats, the fine leather, and all the other appointments inside. I decided, I wanted this car.

     

    So, 2 hours later, and at 1.9%, $26,641 OTD, I purchased my first non-sportscar, non-V-8, non-'American' car with 11 miles on the odometer (6 of which was my testdrive). And so far, two days later, I love it!

     

    I know that there are people out there that got a better deal, there is a whole forum for it, but I had a good experience and am quite happy with what I paid...or perhaps overpaid.

     

    So, we'll see how things go but I couldn't be any happier. I'm proud to now say I'm the owner of a beautiful 2005 Honda Accord Sedan...without integrated navigation. I've decided to purchase a Magellan instead.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Quiet, very quiet engine, indeed.

    Congrats on your new purchase.
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Member Posts: 764
    QUESTION: ---- Will you be able to get "warranty work" on this vehicle in the United States?
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    As long as it meets US specs you will be able to register it without any problems. You do not have to change the gauges. Doing so actually will reduce it's value - whenever an odometer is changed out it leads to all sorts of questions.

     

    As for warranty, as long as you are a Canadian resident and bought and registered the vehicle there first, you should not have any issues with warranty service.
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    In the old rear-wheel drive days, there were three adjustments to the front suspension that I used to hear about - caster, camber, and toe-in.

     

    If the caster was set one way, the car would be too hard to steer. If it was set the other way, it would have poor directional stability, like our 1970 Volvo.

     

    I don't know how this relates to the modern FWD cars.

     

    The situation you describe is, from what I have read, common for new Hondas. Other people have often mentioned it.

     

    We will probably get a new Accord soon, and one of the main things I will check on the test drive is the directional stability. Thanks for the warning.
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    We have a 97 and a 99 Accord. The 97 is easier to steer and feels 'lighter on its feet', but doesn't seem as stabe on the highway.

     

    The 99 is rock-solid on the highway but feels much more stiff driving around town and manuvering through shopping centers.

     

    Maybe with the new accords they went back to the way it was with the 97 model.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    navyac:

     

    Have you checked your tire pressures against the specifications on your door frame label? Your symptoms seem like a clear case of overinflation.

     

    I hope that your tires aren't inflated to the maximum burst pressure molded into your tires' sidewalls. That's a common mistake, and very dangerous.
  • atlantabennyatlantabenny Member Posts: 735
    Yes, I remember those settings for RWD cars. They're also in FWD vehicles, and as in RWD cars, the camber/caster/toe-in may be fixed or adjustable.

     

    After-market or tuner companies sell kits that allow adjustment of the Accord's camber and caster (ex: http://www.eautoworks.com/ORD-1-1-1-15679.cfm ).
  • spleckspleck Member Posts: 114
    What's the deal with the squeaky clutch? What's your experience getting it fixed?

      

    The first time I went to the dealer, they wouldn't even write it up. They lubed it and sent me on my way with nothing. I just went back and got it documented, but still they just lube the clutch pedal. I'm getting a twangy spring sound whenever I depress the clutch pedal. Its worse when its warm out (of course its cold now). I'm at 35,500 miles so I'd like to get this issue resolved. I have the TSB, but the dealer says lubing it "is what they HAVE to do." I'm pretty sure the old TSB specified lubing the pedal, and that it was changed this year to reflect replacement of the cylinder behind the pedal.

     

    Any thoughts?
  • mrmoomrmoo Member Posts: 5
    Just picked up Accord EX 2 weeks ago, 4-cylinder, automatic transmission, about 1,500 miles on it.

     

    Just started noticing a "click" noise when shifting from Park to Drive. Put shifter in D and 2 seconds later here this annoying "click".

     

    Also rough going from Drive to Reverse.

     

    Anyone else experience this? Thanks
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    Sounds like the ABS self-check that many people have wondered about. A lot of cars do it. Personally, I think the ABS light should come on for just a second at the same time to notify the driver about the source of the noise.
  • liaisonliaison Member Posts: 49
    Can anyone tell me if the V6 requires premium unleaded?
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    All new Accords are designed to run on REGULAR gas. A few people have said on this forum that using premium enhances performance slightly, but there isn't widespread agreement on that.

     

    For most people it would be a waste of money to use anything more costly than regular......Richard
  • spleckspleck Member Posts: 114
    Actually, considering the compression ratios and advanced knock sensors, it seems like the Accord V6s are designed to run on Premium, but to adjust timing to run correctly on regular gas.

     

    Toyota has taken this line too with the newer engines. Honda seems to be rating the HP using regular, while Toyota is rating them using Premium, then noting that you can also run regular with decreased performance.
  • hmurphyhmurphy Member Posts: 278
    The ABS self-check in my Accord was more like a brief grinding noise, not a click.

     

    Unless the noise changed between the 03 and now, I doubt it's that.
  • mrmoomrmoo Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone had to take the Accord back to the dealer to have the transmission looked at, after just weeks of ownership?

     

    Do dealers have good reputation of doing transmission work?
  • richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    I doubt that dealers do more than superficial transmission work. If there's a problem that can be fixed easily by a dealer--like the "oil jet kit" installed on recalled V6 Accords--then the dealer fixes it.

     

    If a transmission needs major work, the dealer replaces it with a factory rebuilt unit. This is easier and cheaper than training mechanics to mess in the bowels of transmissions......Richard
  • navyacnavyac Member Posts: 3
    I checked the tire pressure against what it says in the owners manual and the door jamb and it is right where it is supposed to be. I understand that they sell aftermarket kits, but shouldnt it be right from the factory, I mean should I take it back to the dealer and have them calibrate it properly. I have heard of people getting cars where the camber or toe in is off and they had to fix it. I was really just curious if anybody else with an EX or V6 has had this problem with the 16 inch tires.
  • sunilsunil Member Posts: 52
    I recently bought a 2005 4-cylinder EX-L (I now have 1K miles on it). I have the commonly reported issue with engine vibration at idle. I thought this was a harmless issue to be ignored & lived with, but I just found a web site (link below) which recommends replacing the engine mounts and radiator mounts in Accords with this problem.

     

    Question : has anybody else gotten these done under warranty ? Did this eliminate the problem with vibrations at idle ? I am considering calling my daler to see if they can fix this under warranty, just wanted to check if anybody else has experience with getting this fixed. Thanks !

     

    Sunil

     

    http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/new/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/- 37579

     

    However, the engine gradually developed a vibration at idle when in Drive. Our test ended before the vibration could be addressed, but Honda said the test car was subsequently repaired in accordance with a factory Service Bulletin. The bulletin recommends replacing the motor mounts and radiator mounts in Accords that develop the idle-vibration problem.
  • pilotrockpilotrock Member Posts: 3
    Sunil: This problem has driven me nuts on my 03 4cyinder EX-L. I have complained to my local dealer for nearly a year. Constantly told this is normal...funny, when I test drive Camry 4's or even Civic 4's...no problems. If there really is a TSB on this, I think we all stand a good chance at resolution. As it is, every new rider I have in the car says "why is the car vibrating?"..I tell them...it's supposed to!
  • pilotrockpilotrock Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have access to TSB details? Seeking details on 3 problems I have had.

     

    vibration: see above (if only I would remember to shift into neutral!)

    brakes: rotors turned at 24k..Honda would not replace, only resurface.

    Pulling right: Just had an alignment, no change, tire pressure OK. Requires constant left-ward pressure on the wheel. Thanks!
  • sunilsunil Member Posts: 52
    The same web-site also had a comment on the brakes pulsating (see the note below - they got the rotors resurfaced and the pads replaced under warranty).

     

    Sunil

     

    Extended Use Report At 7500 mi., extended-use Accord EX-L sedan suffered a slight brake pulsation when slowing from highway speeds. The front brake rotors were resurfaced and the pads replaced under warranty.
  • clovisguyclovisguy Member Posts: 49
    I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl. AT and it doesn't vibrate at all. It even shifts very smooth. I didn't ever think I would enjoy having an automatic 4cyl. but I do.
  • snakehairsnakehair Member Posts: 120
    When I picked up my new '03 EXV6 it pulled terribly. The dealer said the alignment (from the factory) was way off. They re-aligned and no problems since. Tire pressure was high when I got the car, but I readjusted that immediately.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    Due to my selected combination my MD dealer did get my car from a dealer in PA. When I took the delivery, I realized that undercarriage of the car was coated with tar. My 99LX has 24K and no single problem so far. Personally, if dealer offers me good price for undercarriage coating I can go for it. But I am against any protection for upper body. Honda paint is really good. At least 10 years if you wash and wax it, you will not have any rust.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    We have TSBs right here. Just click on the Tips & Advice tab and the top of the page, then the Maintenance Costs link on that page (under the title). Then select your car and you'll get all the information.
  • ktnrktnr Member Posts: 255
    It's unfortunate though that Edmunds readers have to visit other sites (which we're not allowed to mention here) in order to be able to read the actual TSB documents. TSB's often contain excellent diagrams and photos that are useful for other owner purposes. I've downloaded every TSB I can find online to use as an owner reference.
  • jnowelljnowell Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a Honda certified 2000 Accord EX with 55,000 miles. I drive 80 miles per day, almost all of it on the highway doing 80 mph. I have been disappointed with my mileage, which has never exceeded 27.5 MPG. Any suggestions?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    If you don't find what you need at that link, drop by our Technical Service Bulletins discussion and ask there. 0patience and alcan hang out there and are happy to post the details of any TSB. Hope this helps.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    I drive 80 miles per day, almost all of it on the highway doing 80 mph. I have been disappointed with my mileage, which has never exceeded 27.5 MPG. Any suggestions?

     

    Drive Slower!!

     

    IMHO I think 27.5 mpg at 80 mph is pretty good!!
  • jnowelljnowell Member Posts: 3
    Robert,

     

    Thanks. I have wondered if that was part of the issue. When honda rates it at 30 mpg, it is probably running 55 MPH. I think I was disappointed b/c my 96 Chevy Lumina with a v6 got the same mileage at that speed.

     

    Anyway, thanks again.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Thanks. I have wondered if that was part of the issue. When honda rates it at 30 mpg, it is probably running 55 MPH.

     

    Actually it's the EPA that came up with the number - they test every car on a treadmill like device in a controlled environment. IMHO, it's a nice way to compare results against other cars but in no way is it a reliable real world number.

     

    Good Luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    ISn't the highway mileage actually a blend of the highway constant speed test value and a suburban driving value?

     

    I recall that early on the EPA rating was done at 50 mph with no air resistance compensation. Not realistic.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Highway is a blend of rural and interstate speeds. See the following:

     

    http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/fe_test_schedules.shtml
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Thanks for the link!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jnowelljnowell Member Posts: 3
    Interesting link. The average highway test speed is 48, and the max is 60. Not very realistic I suppose, since the state limit here is 70. Still, I may try running 70 to see what happens. I know running 75 vs 80 saves me about 300rpm.

     

    Thanks for everyone's input.
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