Mazda Millenia

tig2002 · August 2003

fairwood: you did not damage your dash. It is a problem on most MM's that I discovered, and you proved it. It may go away if you don't bother the dash with pressing on that area all the time. But the material behind the vinyl is very sensitive to outside temperature, and the squeaking noise goes away when the dash becomes hot after you leave the car outside on sunny day.

P.S. I could not sleep last night after I noticed some big black cars passed my house several times..:-)

fwatson · August 2003

OK, I just got back home from an errand. While on that errand it occurred to me that the major trunk release mystery had to be solved, and right now.

At 70MPH on US 27, I finally got up the nerve (whew!) and pushed the ta-da, trunk release button on the driver's door. Click! But I see nothing in my rearview mirror. Pulled into a turn lane, made an illegal stop there, walked around and raised then closed my trunk lid.

Now the official results: Yes, on an '01 MM"P" the trunk lid can be released at highway speeds. But, the lid remains down even while braking to compensate for your stupidity of opening it while going down the highway at 70MPH. Case closed. Oh, but I guess it won't hurt to do it with a trunk full of loose feathers, because it stays closed.

I also thought of trying to induce that dashboard squeak by swiftly planting my shoe heel firmly in the center of the panel between the air bag and glove box. Thankfully I was able to control that urge in time to save myself several hundred dollars. Please don't force me to destroy my beautiful (and silent) Millenia to satisfy your sadistic curiosities.

tig2002 · August 2003

DEAR ALL: Having 20+ years of driving experience and owning more than dozen cars in my life I have never seen a car where you can damage any part by just gently pressing on it, or even hard pushing (not kicking). If you do not wish to check your dashboard for squeaking noise and "damage" your car - don't do it. But don't tell me that I owe you hundreds of Dollars for your dashboard because you touched that poor baby by my recommendations. And if these are my sadistic curiosities, don't touch anything but steering wheel, and don't push hard in the middle of it, otherwise it will honk. Again, I showed it to the dealer and he admitted that this is a problem, and he didn't say "Hey, don't touch it!", "Are you trying to break your car?". Please do not try to check your dashboard for squeaking on your MM as anybody can do on any car on this planet, and if you do and hear something - I owe you nothing, ask Mazda to cover the damage.

fwatson · August 2003

But what if my trunk had flown open and I had had a load of feathers? Then you would have been responsible for replacement of said feathers, and a possible fine for littering!

tomekk · August 2003

You have Michelines? - I have Dunlops SP5000.
Tomek

fairwood · August 2003

Hope your last post was in jest as were all our posts regarding the squeaks and other problems we come here to solve or help solve. fwatson has been posting here for some time and I don't think he or anyone else is out to get you. I've called off the black cars in any event. And speaking of pieces breaking easily, One of the Plymouths I owned many years ago - I'm guessing around 1957 - had a typical large diameter, thin metal or plastic horn rim. The kind you could trip with your fingers while still hanging onto the wheel. I pushed it one cold morning and the whole ring disintegrated into a dozen pieces around my feet and on my lap. 1957 wasn't my first year behind the wheel so do the math to see how long I have been driving. I have owned well over two dozen cars and not finished yet I hope. This Millenia is the most fun to drive of all those other, mostly forgotten cars and station wagons. I said it here before but worth repeating: first car in decades that I want to get in and drive just for the sheer fun of it. Now everybody relax, take two steps back and take a deep breath. It's a free bar all night for pete's sake, here's to ya. fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

I'm not sure why he seems to have taken offense to my/our posts. If he knew me, he would know it was all in jest. In fact I don't see how anyone could take it otherwise.

I agree my MM is the best car of the 20 some I have had in almost 50 years of driving. The only other I wish I had back was my '68 Charger. Not an RT, just a 318, but I should have never let it go. Most seemed like a great idea at the time, but turned out to be less than desirable. This one after almost two years is like new in every way, and I feel good just driving it.

Both my wife and I really enjoy the strong air intake sound the MM has on hard acceleration. And it is truly the best highway car I have ever driven. Not a buzz or vibration at any speed. If not for a little noise from those Michelins on coarse pavement, it would be almost silent. And I do not usually have the radio on to mask noises.

Sorry tig2000 if I somehow upset you. It was not intended.

tig2002 · August 2003

fwatson and fairwood: you did not upset me, at all. I am just trying to find out if this is really a problem, or I am too picky. But I do hear it though.

I don't like my Millenia, I just love it! The way it looks, the way it drives, and the way it smells. In fact I noticed an interesting thing: the value of this car slightly increases. Can this be true? I check the value of the vehicle in one month increments on kbb.com, and it increases with every month I own it. Even when I change the mileage readings to the most current one (approx. 1K/month). Happy to see that my car is not only unique, but also keeps the value well. But who knows when it comes to selling or trading point...

fwatson · August 2003

I hadn't paid much attention to resale value in the almost two years I've had mine. But I just ran retail on KBB, and having paid $21530 for mine in Sept '01, the $17835 is about $3700 less than I paid new. Had I had to pay the almost $30000 MSRP, that would be a major shock. Of course the huge discounts most likely account for the low value of used MM's.

I had read a lot last year from people complaining about the depreciation, and compared it to the Maximas and found little difference in residual value.

I will run mine until the wheels are worn down to the axles though, even if I get another new car. I always have two cars. So resale makes no difference to me.

KBB was also showing a trade-in at a little less than $15500 with 11500 miles in excellent condition.

fairwood · August 2003

I'm with you when you say you love your Millenia. Maybe a love/hate relationship? I too hate squeaks and rattles in a car, it takes away from the pleasure of being in a great vehicle. And I also mentioned before that I look for excuses to go for a ride. My wife and I were at a MS picnic last evening and I mentioned to our little group that formed that I had sold the Town Car and bought a Mazda Millenia. Most didn't know or care about what a Millenia was but a few ears did perk up. That's when Carol said that "he seems to find all sorts of excuses to go out somewhere everyday now". So I have been found out by my wife. I don't think I ever wanted to take the other two dozen or so cars I have owned out for a spin just for the heck of it. It was always get home from work after fighting traffic and put it in the garage for the night. Off to the farmer's market for some local fresh produce but we have to take the Plymouth wheelchair van - no fun in that. fairwood

tig2002 · August 2003

I did not compare the value of MM to the price that I purchased for. I compared the following: The trade-in value of my MM on kbb.com with odometer reading 15,000 mi. a few months ago was $14,950. Now the same trade-in value at the same site with odometer reading of 18,500 is $15,200, although a month ago the value with reading 17,500 was $15,550. I don't know how true it can be, but it can happen to the car that has been discontinued and has good feedback from consumer. Of course, the value of this car drops dramatically when comparing MSRP of brand new one and the present value, as any other most valuable car on the market, but this is what I got when compared trade-in values.

tomace · August 2003

tig2002 I think your correct with the theory of value going up because it's discontinued. I purchased my 02 MM S in April 2002. A co-worker of mine purchased an 02 G35 at the same time. Based on our purchased prices the G35 has depreciated more the the MM S. I think that is probably because there is a new Maxima and no new Millenia. I also paid $3000 less than he did. I paid $25,500 for my MM S back then with every option except 2 tone paint and that price included a rear spoiler I added. After the spoiler my car listed for $34,000. I also think more people are paying attention to the Mazda name with the new 6 and the RX8 about to come out. When I purchased my car, I considered the discontinuing of it and new 6 and had a feeling over time it could help slow the depreciation.

Heads do turn when I pull up in my car. You just don't see one every mile like Accords, Camrys, Maximas, etc. I also keep it exceptionally clean and the silver with the chrome wheels is extremely sharp looking.

fairwood · August 2003

I checkout a couple of other owner sites a few times a week and I must say they are rather strange. One is called Roadrunner Mazda club and is run by www.network54.com The moderator shows up maybe once a decade, there is no search engine and you get a post asking about a 929, the next post is about a 1995 B2000 truck or somesuch and there is little response. Very strange web site. The other one is at www.mazdaworld.org and is a somewhat better site to search thru. You can go to Millenias only but about 90% of the posters there seems to be children in adult bodies. The big thing with several of them is to see who can register the most posts in a day, many posts contain one word with the rest of the screen filled with a picture of their car and all the "who cares but you" data of what they have added, etc. Informative and yet annoying, sifting thru the mindless drivel. Hope they drive better than they write. Any other sites out there worth checking into? I am taking my 2000 MM S in tomorrow for oil and filter and check out or clean the air filter. They check the fluid levels etc for around $35 Can. dollars or about $25 U.S. before taxes. I said I wanted 10w/30 because that is the range recommended for the temperatures over the next several months. I think 5w/30 is too light for summer driving. They said they always put in 5w/30 and that is what they used in May just before I took delivery on May 27. There was no indication that they had done an oil change (very glad they did however) and they also did a safety check and a "drive clean" inspection before delivery. In Ontario we have to pass pollution tests etc every two years and a safety check is mandatory when selling or buying a used vehicle, thru the dealer or privately. No certificate, no licence transfer. Eventually we will get all those oil burners off the road. What oil do you use and what is average temperature for summer and also winter driving. fwatson is exempt since I am very familiar with central Florida weather. It's sort of like New Orleans with two seasons - February and summer. fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

I run 10W30 Castrol GTX Drive Hard and Supertech Filter. I change every 3000 miles or 6 months.

Our temperatures range from 20 to 97 degrees f. Not exactly Feb and summer. We have several month of GORGEOUS spring and fall weather. The hot summer months are from about mid June to mid September. I lived in Missouri until I was 18. The summers there were shorter, but every bit if not more hot and humid. Anything above Iowa I consider the Tundra.

fairwood · August 2003

If you remember, my wife and I spent about 5 1/2 months every year in New Port Richey on the gulf coast, from late October to mid April so yes, I am very familiar with FL weather. If I were there all year I too would definitely used 10w/30. This will be the first winter in a decade that we won't be going south and I will have to learn to drive thru that white stuff all over again. We will miss Carrabbas the most plus all the other fresh seafoods, although I saw in yesterday's St. Pete Times that "fresh" grouper is not always fresh, some of it comes from as far as New Zealand and is frozen, even coming from Thailand.
Who do you trust anymore? fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

Hey, we also get California oranges.

tomace · August 2003

Posting 2522 of mine should have said I35 NOT G35. A different co-worker of mine has a G35 and the depreciation on it is much slower. Sorry for the confusion...

mills01 · August 2003

Hello All,
With my SuperCharger gone , I am going through Four quarts every week. Any suggestions?
Was there any discussion about replacing 'S' - Miller Cycle engine with the regular engine? Is this possible?

Thanks.

fwatson · August 2003

I am sure that would be possible, but a new SC would probably be a lot cheaper.

tomekk · August 2003

What do you mean "with my SuperCharger gone"? How did that happen? The car's still driveable?

"Four quarts every week" ... over how many miles?

As fwatson points out, how much you're talking for sc replacement? Have you tried getting it from a junkyard (given its decent brakes, there must be some Millenias S rear-ended out there)

Tomek

mills01 · August 2003

History - Just about a year ago I had the check engine light ON as a result of a faulty SC - according to the Dealer.
Since then I had to put four quarts of OIL every 1000 mi ( approx ) until recently. In the last month I see a change in the pattern with OIL LOW light coming ON every week. I put four quarts last Monday, I might have driven for three days during the week (approx 100mi) and this morning ( Monday) on my way to work I had the OIL light come up. It took four quarts again.

I was told a Used - SC is $4500. Is that true?

Thanks.

fwatson · August 2003

google for "used mazda parts" but don't use the quote marks. This might give you a start.

http://www.car-part.com/

1995 Turbocharger/Supercharger 16117 $1400
Standard Auto Recycling USA-CA(Chula-Vista) 1-619-426-1166

fairwood · August 2003

I go to eBay (Mazda MIllenia). There was a used supercharger there about a week ago and it sure as heck wasn't $4500 by a long shot. eBay is a good spot to check on a regular basis for Millenia stuff - just keep away from the microchips that promise an extra 10 to 20hp. They are simply resistors and will boost brake hp by no more than 3 hp if that. Lots of used keyless remotes there all the time. Got my extra there and works like a dream. fairwood

misty8 · August 2003

Fairwood: In your July 20 posting you stated "Don't try to save money by using the cheapest gas you can find; stay with the recommended premium. The cost difference over a year of normal driving (10 to 12 thousand miles) is perhaps $50 or $60." I used to think the same thing. However, my 99 P recently misfired from a cold start and the Check Engine Light came on. When I took it to the dealer I was informed that there is a service bulletin recommending that only regular octane gas should be used in the base model. The use of premium grade can cause engine misfires during cold starts. I've switched to regular and I have not noticed any performance problems.

billyperks · August 2003

That's dealer baloney-did you actually see the bulletin?
I had a 99p (pearl white) and all I fed it was 93octane.
The car was solid as a bullet for the 39 months I had it.

misty8 · August 2003

Bulletin No: 01-027/02

APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS

All 1995 - 2002 Millenia models with 2.5L V6 (KL)

Description

After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases, this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high-octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.

To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.

Note: After removing the carbon deposits, be sure to advise the customer to use lower-octane fuel (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences.

This doesn't sound like dealer baloney to me.

fwatson · August 2003

I've been argued with for recommending the use of 87 octane in the P model. Mine now has about 12000 miles on it all on 87 octane except the first dealer fillup.

People just can't seem to understand that the only reason for a higher octane fuel is if the engine pings or knocks. Mine has never done either, and runs perfectly under all conditions. That old high octane fable, that your car will run better, has been around as long as there has been more than one grade of fuel and the oil companies could charge more for it. There is actually less energy in high octane gasoline than in the cheaper stuff. That is because the anti-knock additives displace some of the exact same fuel that you pay less for.

I checked AllData for 2001 Mazda MMP: That is TSB #5

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01333664.html

   1. 0700103 MAY 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Type Odors
   2. 0800103 MAY 03 Air Bag System - Parts Replacement After Deployment
   3. 0700402 APR 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Odors
   4. S01898 APR 03 Body - Wind Noise Around Doors
   5. 0102702 APR 03 Engine - MIL ON/ DTC's P0300 - P0306 Set
   6. 0102902 APR 03 Exhaust System - Sulfur Smell
   7. 0100701 APR 03 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTCP1455/Erratic Gauge Readings
   8. 0901000 APR 03 Keyless Entry - Transmitter Battery Inspection
   9. 0600103 APR 03 Steering Column - Stuck in 'UP' Position
  10. 0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting
  11. 0700102R DEC 02 A/C - Water Leaks onto Passenger Floor
  12. 0100701R AUG 02 Fuel System - MIL ON/Fuel Gauge Inaccurate/Erratic
  13. 0700302 MAY 02 A/C - Cabin Air Filter Replacement
  14. 0700202 APR 02 A/C - Lack of Heat in Passenger Compartment
  15. 0101302 APR 02 Fuel System - Fuel Injector Replacement Guidelines
  16. 0100602 FEB 02 Fuel System - Fuel Pump/Component Replacement Guidelines
  17. 0901801 DEC 01 Accessories - Keyless Entry Service Information
  18. 0600101R1 NOV 01 Steering - Tilt Steering Wheel Inoperative
  19. 0900701 OCT 01 Audio System - Radio Removal Precautions
  20. 0101601 OCT 01 Fuel System - Difficult Fuel Pump Installation
  21. 0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion
  22. 0500101 APR 01 A/T - Whining/Ringing Noise in Interior
  23. 0900700 JUL 00 Interior - Cigarette Lighter Does Not Work Properly

Thanks for that enlightening information misty8

phild_mason · August 2003

I straddle the fence and use a lot of 89/90 octane. In the midwest there is an abundance of these grades with 10% ethanol. As a bonus they are generally only 1 cent more or in some corn belt states the same price where tax credits are in place.

People debate gas-a-hol, but it does keep things cleaner. My brother was in the convience store business for many years. He has seen first hand how much cleaner the inner workings of an old pump are that dispensed blended fuel.

I also think much of the call for premium is pure snob appeal. Honda and Acura share engines that are tweeked here and there, but all Acuras call for premium, not the case with Honda. Just being snobish IMHO.

fairwood · August 2003

Haven't seen any posts here for some days and I came today to post a question and found the interesting posts on what octane gas to use. This arguement or discussion will go on as long as there are choices. Interesting posts, all of them. Personally I have a mental block regarding ethanol, going back to "horror stories" some years ago when it was first introduced. It was softening or swelling neoprene gaskets, seals etc with the resultant costs associated with that. I stopped using Sunoco some years ago because they are using ethanol in Canada as well as USA. Also stopped using BP in USA for same reason. My wife's two wheelchair vans (a VW then a Voyager) cried out for it like kids for candy! Now for the reason I came here in the first place today: My engine temp gauge (2000 Millenia S, 2.3 supercharged) always sits about 1/16 inch below the half way mark even when driven hard for extended periods. Seems a little low even though there are no markers, just E and F. I am wondering about winter heater efficiency. This will be my first experience with winter in 10 years. Never had to worry about snow, cold, ice, etc in Florida did we fwatson? fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

You mean your temperature is either Empty or Full? ;-)

My '01 P runs slightly below the middle of the gauge. I leave the Climate Control on auto 76degrees year round, and it heats and cools as it should. Of course it doesn't get -30 here, but the HVAC system seems very well thought out, so I am sure it will not leave you cold. In Canada, you should also have the optional bunn warmer.

#noname · August 2003

OK fwatson,you caught me with what you refered to as a "finger fart" a few posts back. H and C would do it of course. Looks like your temp gauge is sitting about the same as mine. Anyone else? And yes both front seats have seat warmers. I worked with a fellow many years ago and he had a 1983 Audi 4000 with driver's seat heater. The seat thermostat stopped working one day and that funny smell was his pants burning or scorching. Live and learn (live and burn?).
fairwood

csuftitans · August 2003

My 2000 Mill S engine temp also never goes past the middle marker, always a litlle bit below it, no matter how hot the weather is. Is this mean the radiator on this car is really really good?. BTW, my seat warmer hasn't been working the past few months (not that I needed it), anyone has any thoughts as to where I should start to look first to fix this. It's not the fuse, I checked those already and since the car is out of warranty already, I'm trying to not go to the dealer just for this. Thanks.

fwatson · August 2003

But if you have cleaned under the seat you may have caught on the wire feeding the seat and unplugged a connector. All the ones I have seen are plugged in somewhere under the seat itself. Also if you can locate that connector you can check for 12 volts there. If you have power to the seat, and it doesn't heat, oh well. Probably time to learn to live without it.

un_yz · August 2003

Mine is a 2002 S, the temp gauge sits just below the middle. I haven't seen it to move.

fairwood · August 2003

There was a post on another section here earlier today and the web host suggested that the writer repost here which has not been done as I write this. Anyway, this question of the very expensive replacement of the timing belt in Millenias in general and the S models in particular crops up from time to time. Yes it is a very expensive servicing. First off, to avoid confusion with imperial and metric measurements let's establish that we will talk about miles, not kilometers. Also I will be talking about a 2000 MM S because that is where I have first hand knowledge. On page 8-3 (Maintenance) of my manual it says: "Engine Timing Belt: Replace every 60,000 miles EXCEPT for vehicles registered in California; New York; Massachusetts; Connecticut; Vermont; New Jersey; Rhode Island; Delaware; Maryland; New Hampshire; Penn; Virginia; Maine and Washington DC." The recommended service for vehicles INITIALLY registered in the above states is to INSPECT the belt at 60,000 miles, inspect again at 90,000 miles and then REPLACE belt at 105,000 miles. Now what do you suppose is the difference in cars sold in the above states and cars sold in Ohio; Florida; Georgia; Idaho; province of Ontario, Canada etc. The short answer is NONE. Subtle differences in other engine and exhaust areas have no direct or even indirect bearing on the timing belt condition. The rule of thumb here is 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis, maintaining proper tire air pressure, checking and/or replacing the air filter when due will do more to keep your Millenia in top condition than changing the timing belt because the car has chocked up 60,000 miles. If you feel confident that your car is functioning as expected then don't go looking for trouble. Should the belt break, no harm will come to the engine, it simply will not run. There is a description of this type of engine, the name escapes me at the moment, but it is not of the type that would be damaged if a regular timing chain were to break. Hopefully this will open up a discussion panel here, too bad the bar isn't open. fairwood

fairwood · August 2003

There has also been some discussion here recently about the use of regular versus premium gas in Millenias. fwatson has used regular with no problems while others (myself included) stay with premium grade. I recently purchased a 26 page brochure for the 1999 Millenias on eBay. I purchased it at a reasonable price just for a keepsake, although my MM S is a 2000 model. The differences between a 1999 and a 2000 are minimal. The Features section in the 1999 brochure states: "Recommended fuel for the 2.5L DOHC 24-valve V6 is REGULAR unleaded gasoline and for the 2.3L Miller Cycle supercharged engine is PREMIUM unleaded gasoline. So fwatson, you have been using regular grade with no problems and that is likely because you have the P model, not the supercharged engine. The 2000 brochure is a little foggier. For the P or 2.5L engine premium is RECOMMENDED while for the 2.3L supercharged engine, premium is REQUIRED. So the beat goes on, the questions remain but hopefully the above will help clear up any differences of opinion. As with anything - if all else fails, READ THE MANUAL. fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

"There is a description of this type of engine, the name escapes me at the moment,"

It is a "non-interference" engine, meaning if the valves get out of time they will not collide with the pistons.

My 2001 P does not call for replacement until 105000 nationwide. Check the Gates Rubber site for a chart.

" if all else fails, READ THE MANUAL. fairwood"

I have read the entire manual and am aware of the "Recommended" vs "Required" fuel entry. There is also a label at the fuel filler with the same information. I think the Primium requirement on the S is due to the increased pressure of the air entering the cylinders. On both models though, the engine computer is capable of automatically changing the timing to compensate for octane. But while I lose no performance from that on my P, you might see a difference on the S.

fwatson · August 2003

This is from a pdf I got from Gates a year or more ago. It only shows the Miller through '00 and the P through '01.

The "T" numbers are recommended belts, and none of the Millenias have interferrence engines. As you can see, the exact belt number is recommended whether California or Federal.

--------------------------

Millenia

1995-96 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal

1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 105,000

1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000

1995-96 2.5L V6 T214 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal

1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 105,000

1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 60,000

2001 2.5L V6 T214 105,000

fwatson · August 2003

http://www.skillcentre.com/mazda.html

--------------------------------
Engine-----Interference-----Notes

2.3L V6---------NO----------(32)

2.5L V6---------NO----------(32)

Notes: (32)

On 1996 & prior models, replace every 60,000 miles.

On 1997-98 CA & MA vehicles, belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.

On all other 1997-98 models, replace every 60,000 miles.

On 1999 & later CA, CT, DE, DC, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT & VA vehicles belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.

On all other 1999 & later models replace every 60,000 miles.

------------------------------------

The charts do not completely agree. But it is easy to see that the only reason for the 60000 mile changes on newer models is because they can get away with it. I can see no reason, given our engines are non-interference, that the belt needs changed before 105000, and you might get by never changing it. The worse that can happen is that the car would quit running. Of course you might have to walk home if that happened. ;-)

mazdagurl · August 2003

Thanks for the info. I think I will keep my cell phone well charged and press my luck for a while. The car runs like a dream. I would hate to do anything that would possibly cause a decline in the performance - especially when the the replacement is not absolutely necessary at 60k. I trust the dealership that would replace the belt - it just seems that this is a rather difficult repair to complete with 100% success. I don't have time right now to deal with returning to the shop for corrections and tweaks. Is it true that the entire engine must come out for this repair?

fairwood · August 2003

fwatson: Did I detect a little anger in your reply #2547? Sure hope not since you and I seem to agree on most things. "if all else fails, read the manual" of course is an old standard saying and was not aimed at anyone in particular or in general. Yes I am having more and more old timers attacks, like the comedian said "the nouns are the first thing to go". Adjectives come easy as in"what's that stupid thing called?". With the latest jump in gas prices in North America my premium gas just jumped to $4.04 per imperial gallon in Canadian dollars which equates to about $2.83 U.S. dollars per imperial gallon or about $2.26 per U.S. gallon in U.S. dollars. Got all that? There will be a test tomorrow on this higher math. fairwood

fwatson · August 2003

Just trying to show justification for my decision to use 87 octane. And the TSB shown a few posts back supports my feeling on the subject.

I save my online anger for "trolls" such as one we had here a few months back. Thankfully he gave up and disappeared.

g35fan · August 2003

I have a 95 Millenia with 15-inch wheels. One of the wheel covers is gone. The dealer quoted me $75 for one. It's really surprisingly high for such a plastic disc. Are there other good places to shop for it?

Thanks!

fwatson · August 2003

You might find one on EBay. But I believe you can go to a salvage yard and get a set of 4 matching 15" wheel covers that will fit fine. Unless you just have to have the originals. Good luck.

tomekk · August 2003

I'd try Wal-Mart.
I lost a cover on Nissan Stanza years ago, I can still remember my shock (no awe) hearing from the dealer "$60 ... so I don't think you'll want one"

tomekk · August 2003

I just took a quick look this morning into my manual (2001 Mill S), and both "Schedule 1" and "Schedule 2" show timing belt replacement at 60K miles for 2.3 Miller Cycle (2.5L is inspect at 60K and 90K, replace at 105K).
All I know now is that I'm confused... but, if I keep this car that long, I'll take my chances with the timing belt up to 100K (given the non-interference engine).

Now, they want to have spark plugs changed at 60K - has anyone done that on Mill S? How much $$$ at the dealer?

Tomek

fairwood · August 2003

From what I have read on another Mazda Millenia help site, the 2.3L spark plug leads have a coil built right in, it is not a simple matter to replace carbon or copper leads. These plug wires can be damaged if removed by inexperienced people so be careful if and when you decide to replace plugs. Also the recommended plugs are NKG (Japanese of course). Again there have been rumors of bad or poor performance blamed on Champion or other common makes. Just hearsay on my part at this point, not trying to scare anyone (other than myself when I first read these posts). Also, just from looking at my 2.3L engine I don't think I would want to tackle the replacement myself. That shroud is rather intimidating to the uninitiated. The good old days of Saturday mechanic do-it-yourself are long gone. I used to replace mufflers, brakes, spark plugs - I even used to overhaul 4 barrel carburetors. Mazda dealers are expensive for sure but I think I would rather a trained mechanic do the work than have a back street butcher poking around. Now about cost, I have seen posts on the other site that it can cost $500 U.S. funds. Sheesh, what did we get ourselves into? fairwood

tomekk · August 2003

You mean $500 JUST for sparkplugs at the dealer?
Tomek

kcm8419 · August 2003

I would have to agree with fairwood. I looked on my '02 S about the spark plugs and I don't think that this would be the first thing I would want to tackle on this car. On the NGK site they list 3 plugs that would fit, starting with the V power plugs and going up to the double platinum. The prices range from $2.44 to $11.71 per plug. I guess this will tell you how much of that $500 is labor and profit. But I have awhile before this becomes a concern. Just looking at crawling around in the trunk to replace the fuel filter can be a pain in the back, literally.

Hope everybody has a happy and safe holiday.

fwatson · August 2003

about your $500 spark plug changes. I guess those 0-60 times come high. I just checked my MM-P. And after having a '90 T-Bird 3.8 then a '95 Olds 3.8 (still have it) as my last two cars. Both of which it was impossible for me to reach and change the rear 3 plugs. And after reading the last few posts here, I am delighted to see that the sparkplugs on my "01 P should be about a 10 minute shade tree mechanic job. IOW, for the price of the plugs and 10 minutes it's done. Glad I gave up that 1.5 seconds getting to 60. ;-)

Mazda Millenia

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles