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Comments
P.S. I don't understand those MPG numbers printed by manufacturers on stickers of the new cars. How do they calculate those numbers?
It was about 95 to 100 during the day with AC running. I got right around 25.
I really wish the 2.5 could do a little better. My RL does about the same.
My 2000 MME is approaching 67,000 miles and the brakes are going to need repalcing soon.
I've changed brakes on other, older model Mazdas and it's super easy. If anyone can comment on the Millenia, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks.
Homer
I owe 2000 Millenia S with 51K on it. Want to change its spark plugs. Any suggestions on the brand, and how to accomplish it easier? Thank you all
Like kmc8419 mentioned,there is no "easy" way to change spark plugs
on an "S" engine.I recently did it myself and let me tell you...
You must be very patient and possess mechanical skills.
I posted about this subject about a month ago and picked up a link
which i'll try to retreive...it's somewhere in my home pc.
Get me you're email and i'll forward you the url.
Found the URL for you...
http://home.att.net/~rexjr/Spark_Plug_Changing_Guide.doc
Good Luck man!
P.s. Thanks to wwbradley:)
kmc8419, I know that Mazda manual says that the original spark plugs are good for 60K. However, recently my car has behaved strangely. First, it’s engine check light would come on and off for no apparent reason. Then, after being parked for about a week, I started the car and its engine began running as if its fuel lines/filter or injectors were clogged up. Its engine light began blinking. After worming the engine up, the light stopped blinking, just staid on, and the car would run normally. I stopped at Autozone to have free code readings. The guy said that cylinder #6 was misfiring, speed sensor was malfunctioning and something else. I didn’t bought into his readings too much because the speedometer and the cruise control worked just fine. However, he recommended checking the spark plugs. I figured it would be a good and the least expensive starting point.
I hope that the problem isn’t a result of faulty emission system, which I heard is quite expensive to fix. I have an extended warranty on the car, but it doesn’t say if it covers emission components (except catalytic converter).
You are all right; I should go to the dealer. I hope, whatever happened with the car will be covered by extended warranty..
Thanks!
I noticed the same thing on my rear window. I don't think it is anything wrong with the glass itself, as I have also seen it on a number of other cars. Other than that, I have no idea if all glass on MM is like this or not. Mine is a 99 and it has been like that as long as I can remember.
Or also with Marketed CD's?
If your problem is happening with both, then you'll have to bring your car to da radio shop.
They will for sure be able to correct the problem. It all depends on how much $ they'll ask.
You'll be the one to judge.
I had a similar problem with mine and the dealer changed the whole unit. However, it was still under warranty.
Good luck!
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/p_p7.htm
No mechanical problems since I purchased it,except sometimes the gas lid won't open on the first try and the cd player has issues. That's Bose's problem not Mazda's problem.
Hope this helps,
Tomek
He also reminded me about 30,000 mi scheduled maintenance which was due 500 miles ago - $450. The maintenance includes replacing virtually all fluids in the car (except gasoline:-) - transmission, coolant, break, power steering, etc. I also contacted local Goodyear store, and they said that the 30K scheduled maintenance for MM does not necessarily mean replacing all fluids. It requires fluid checkup (also found in MM manual), but not replacement, and the Goodyear charges only for the replaced fluids, which compared to Mazda dealer is still much cheaper.
Does work performed by shop other than Mazda voids the warranty? Does it mean that if Goodyear finds all fluids in good condition and replaces engine oil only, and something happens to the transmission before the warranty expires, I still will not be able to repair the transmission under warranty?
I will let you know about the cause of CEL. BTW, I had the CEL on about 6 months ago - turned out the knock sensor was bad. The interesting thing is that CEL came on at both times (6 months ago and yesterday) after I washed my car (externally only). I am not sure what it is now, but I hope the car will be trouble free after the warranty expires in 03/05.
I've already installed my Alpine CDA7893 + brand
new Boston speakers. I will now install an amp + sub.
I'm at the stage of passing the main lead from the
battery through the firewall.
My problem is that i'm trying to locate a "passage" for it. What is the best way of doing it?
The "S" engine compartment is pretty "busy" & very difficult to locate anything. Maybe some you have already done this? Anything will help!
Thanks!
As it turned out, it was a pencil style tire gauge in the glove box. I turned it end for end, and voila, silence. Hope yours is that simple.
Otherwise you do have a 39 month 50000 mile bumper to bumper warranty (if my memory serves me well) which may still be in effect depending on your purchase date. Check that and if it has not run out, head for your Mazda dealer and let them worry about the noise. I have what appears to be a small crack in the right rear wheel (painted not chrome) where one of the lugnuts goes. I need to get to the dealer and have that checked before mine expires in December.
Good luck.
The total bill was $950.00 and that's without plugs!!!
Youch!
Note to pat - in the interest of maintaining the integrity of the board, I will not respond to anyone asking for details about the car. This is not meant to be a veiled ad. Thanks!
I got the tuneup (see above) and when I questioned why they didn't change the plugs they claimed they're platinum. Not according to my manual, it calls for new plugs at 60,000.
Does anyone know? I need to dispute this while it's still fresh.
Thanks
(Of course for the last 20 min I've been repeatedly pushing the damn CD back in, should listen to the radio in the morn).
BE CAREFUL on Autotrader when someone contacts you from outside of US - it is a pure spam. My friend almost lost $6,000(!) when someone contacted him from Nigeria and offered full price for his vehicle, sent Cashiers Check for sum exceeding the purchase price by $6,000, and asked to wire the difference to Canada. Thanks to Western Union for triggering an alarm when my friend wired $6,000, although they kept $600 service fee, but saved him $6,000. Turned out it was a fake Cashiers Check, and the local bank did not even notice while depositing it into friend’s account.
The big difference was that a teller accepted the "Cashier Check" and it cost the bank the $6000 to cover it. In turn it cost the 20 year employee her job because the person who cashed the check was a good customer known to her, who had "sold" their vehicle to someone in Nigeria and she did not put a hold on that check.
This is a common fraud.
Very happy and with the new Dunlop tires it seems likes it brand new. Still love the sand mica color especially at twilight. No rattles or squeaks and suspension is still excellent. Now getting about 23 mpg since my commute changed last year (up from 20-21 mpg) and 25 mpg on long trips at very aggressive speeds.
Hasn't been cheap to operate since I twice hit objects and someone hit me and I have had major problems with the tires due to our crappy roads and potholes in MA and tire installation problems. Just brought it in for slow leaks, 6 weeks after I purchased the tires. The seal wasn't good on both front tires. My understanding is that the rim has to be perfectly clean to obtain a proper seal. Premium gas is expensive also.
Everyone complains about the 60K service but the dealer charged me over $400 for the 30K service. Should have asked but didn't because I expected it to be reasonable. Won't go back to that dealer.
Probably need brakes soon, will need inspection in October.
Strongly recommend it.
be careful with the brakes - go in earlier rather than later. I had mine done at 44K miles of Boston traffic, and I only had to replace the pads, for ~$220. I was told if I waited 4-6K miles longer I'd have to do the rotors, too - and that is more like $600+
Just my $0.02
Tomek
I recently saw, I believe on Intellichoice, that they rated the Millenia S as having major potential engine problems due to the potential failure of the oil seals which cost about $4,200 to replace. If this is true is there any preventive maintenance that can be performed on the oil seals?
fuel consumption. I rarely get better than 18/19
mpg combined city/highway.I must say that i do not abuse the car apart from a few 1 or 2 hours long trips on the freeway where i would from time to time drive it well over the speed limit.
I read on previous posts that some you get 24/25 mpg!!!??? How do i get to this efficiency?
Tire pressure is checked every week, K & N air filter, synthetic oil etc...
My dealer tells me " are you sure you're not kicking the living crap out your engine?" jokingly of course but we can all read between the lines.
Maybe you guys have answers for me!
Appreciated.
Thanks