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Comments
All on vacation...
with 121,000 and owned it for 4 month not a problem basic maintainces is needed and it's about to be done.I going to have a transmission tune up perform and timing belt replacement.Do you have any suggestion about the transmission, and do you recommend a new water pump with a timing belt replacement?
That is a completely normal condition, and you will soon learn to compensate for it or just quit noticing it. There is nothing wrong with your transmission.
My '01 MMP runs perfectly in all weather. I can't answer for the S model, but superchargers are definitely sensitive to humidity and temperature.
If you are at 121000 miles, you are well past time for a new timing belt. And yes, definitely have the water pump replaced at the same time or you may end up paying double labor later. That is just normal preventive maintenance, although quite expensive as I understand.
They have been raced especially in the Ford Probe and Mazda MX-6. It is a very tough engine.
That is all I will contribute to this discussion, except to say that if you want better performance go to a performance shop and see what they recommend.
http://www.jeffjeske.com/
I bought the 1995 XLT from carmax 5yrs ago with 62,000 I'm currently rolling with
158,678 miles an hasn't miss a beat.The problem fuel pump replacement at precesion tune$300.00 less than what the dealer want to charge with 1yr warranty.
We'll keep you here to talk about your Millenia, but send you to one of those to talk about your Explorer!
Bought a '99 MM(93k),check engine light came on as driving home from dealer(yes,it was test driven twice,no warning lights),also fuel door would not release/open.Checked fuses,all fine.Checked alternator,battery charge--all fine.Nawing at me that this light must be related to fuel door,removed 60amp fuse for fuel door and replaced w/60amp from ignition(just to see if it would work),put fuel door fuse in ignition fuse slot,that fuse continues to work fine, light went off,fuel door opened...for a day!!Light back on,fuel door not opening.Bought new 60amp fuse,desired results attained....for a day!!Pulled fuse,re-inserted,light now off but fuel door wont open.Fuse box is clean,no sign of corrosion inside.Whats going on here??? Any help?Sounds like maybe a potential short somewhere,pulled door cover and inspected connections to release button,fine.UGHHHHHH.....hate electrical issues.
I just bought a 97 MML two weeks ago and went to the garage to have a emissions inspection today. The results came out as FAIL since the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is broken or not functioning" as it shown on the report.
Then I asked the guy from Mazda service to check the code to find that there were three codes
P0300 pcm: random misfire;
P0325 pcm: knock sensor;
P1170 pcm: HO2S(RH) inversion.
Is there any one has similar experience here? I'd like to know if I should fix all the problems to pass the emission inspection? How much to fix those problems? Also, how much to fix the indicator Lamp?
Thanks.
I'm new to this discussion, recently bought MM'97 base. Check Engine light comes on, and flickering. Car runs well, though. Any suggestion, please?
Also, car came w/out manual. Is it timing belt or chain? If belt, at what mileage it should be replaced?
many thanks, Victor
what could be the problem?
The problem has been resolved finally upon the replacement of the middle control arm link. Earlier the lower and upper control arms, the tie rod end and the steering rack were replaced all under warranty.
The part was replaced under warranty under the Mazda added protection plan.
Thanks
Mike
I bought 98 Mazda millenia S 6 months before. I am getting checking engine light on and TCS off message. On the highway, all of a sudden car is having jerk and speed goes down. I would appreciate, if you can give me suggestions to rectify this.
Thanks
steering wheel was stuck in the up position. It was stormy so I drove
directly home.
The owner's manual doesn't indicate which fuse (the horn, and
everything else works).
Mazda won't tell me ("take it to a dealer").
Thanks in advance.
cheers,
Karl
First off my wife and I have owned 5 Mazola's since the mid 80's
I've owned two 1986 turbo 626's.
I do a lot of driving and after buying one of these cars new ( in 86) I decided to buy another.
This year I got rid of one but the other is still going strong with full compression @ 478,000 Km.
When I met my wife she decided to buy a 1988 626 and she sold it in 1999 ( it was still running fine as well).
Neither vintage car needed any internal engine work except the timing belt!!!
In 1999 she bought the Millennia S because she liked how her previous model ran.
Last year I bought a 1999 Millennia S as well. I'm not a mechanic although I used to be into building hi perf cars in the 70's, so you can imagine why I built a new 1884 sq. ft. shop on our lot 10 years ago.
I have everything a mechanic will ever need. Welders, 50 ton press, basically $55.000 worth of equipment and all of it's less than 10 years old.
Any way, her car and mine are identical right down to the colors and trim.
I believed should we ever have computer issues it would be best this way, plus I liked the horsepower and gas mileage.
I dropped out from becoming a mechanic when I was 18 because I saw the light as to how much physical work goes onto making your boss rich.
I then went into electrical engineering so I'm not afraid of reading schematics.
Few shop manuals (car) fully explain down to board level repairs so this is where two identical cars help.
Now it's coming to pay off, she developed a severe miss on her engine P0303, P0305, P0300.
The 03, & 05 are for cylinders 3 and 5 retrospectively. The 0300 means one or more random misfires.
I removed the coils on her engine, total of 6. What i found was that the coil boot extension was soaked with oil on several cylinders.
The plugs are down the end of a very deep well ( 5 inches or so). The well on two of her cylinders were filled with engine oil for about one and half inches.
The reason for this is that the valve cover matches the cylinder head with identical mating tunnels. The sealant where the two tunnels mate breaks down allowing seepage into the plug well.
I own the shop manuals for our Millennia S's and it clearly shows that when reassembling the valve cover onto the engine requires silicon (a definite must).
The reason why I'm here today is I chose to replace my plugs on my car today (just because I have 150,000 on the vehicle) not because I have a misfire though
I suppose you might guess, I have small amounts of oil in a few wells (as well) about half an inch.
I'm not impressed so I wanted to see how many others experienced similar problems. One google search told me this engine has problems.
Now I can truly see the factory didn't seal these chambers up properly.
FYI my wife's car was bought new and now has only 40,000 kms while mine was in very good shape used, it has like stated above.
Let me tell you, the shop manuals are poor on this car but it does show the work to be very extensive.
I've never shy'd away from work but this is a lot of BS to go through on two cars. I'm 47 and my back can't stand to be bent over for long periods of time anymore.
One car is going to be a killer little lone two of them. It might be easier for me to just pull the engine and do the work on an engine stand.
It must be mentioned that the boot extension can and may need to be replaced in order to get rid of the misfire. Just cleaning them up and drying them off with brake clean and a towel may not work once the spark has a new path burnt into it to follow. This might explains why Mazda Canada has hundreds of these boot extensions in stock ( at a approx. resale of $37.00 each)!!!
The manual doesn't show the cylinder order ( that I've found yet) but it looks like cylinder one is towards the fire wall and # two is next to the rad.
Another words it doesn't appear to go down on one bank then the other rather it crisscrosses crosses the banks. Just judging by the codes and how they were removed.
Also I've had a code for the catalytic sensor bank 2. The previous owner had it replaced twice before I bought it.
I have a heavy foot so I just kept resetting the code for the past year and a half till it gradually went away. Maybe my heavy foot cleaned out the exhaust, but I suspect that the previous owner ran regular gas in it instead of premium. I'm not convinced of this though.
Also I find on a very hot day the engine losses all power on my car (always has from day one). I believe the valve or solenoid for rerouting the air intake through the front and back supercharge coolers to have failed.
My wife's car has lots of power on the same day mine loses all of it's.
Well so much for buying a very reliable car, although I like the gas mileage and power combo.
Instead of having two identical cars to help troubleshoot I have two headaches now.
Just a note, I've seen what little TTR ( Technical Troubleshooting Representatives....basically some dealership mechanics ) know about fixing today's suffocated cars so I'll never fully trust my car in a shop as long as my back holds in there.
God forbid the day when I'll have to pay for some mindless employee to break something there supposed to be fixing. I say this very humbly, although I can tell you many horror stories I've seen and heard!
Many people never know what goes on in fixing these suffocated cars these days. Most shops cover their mistakes by having you pay for them without ever knowing.
Thanks for listening
-Dj
Getting to the point, my '99 Millenia (which I love, by the way) started having problems this last year. Mielage on it is 93k.
First, the cd player won't play cd's. It takes it in and spits it back out. It first started happening this summer, when the player heated up..which was kind of weird because when it was cool outside it played cd's just fine. As soon as it got warm and the car/player heated up, it spits the cd out. I thought in the fall it'd get better, since the weather is cooler now..but now it won't play at all!
Second, my check engine light has been on for some time now. I have had several things done to my car and it's still on. The first code that showed up on it was "Knock Sensor Malfunction", and I haven't tried changing that yet. But now there are 6 codes showing up, many of the same ones as user hitech (message above)!
If there's anyone at all who had and fixed similar problems, please let me know. Or if anyone has advice on where I should post these specific problems, please reply as well.
Thanks a lot!
My 97 millenia is about to turn in 109K miles and runs well.Other than regular oil changes and a tranny flush(redline synthetic ATF works alot better) I did not have any problems with it. Lately I have noticed a clicking noise or knocking depending on the bump and especialy when going slow under breaking in the right rear it sounds like a suspention and was wondering if any of you guys know what is causing it>?
I had front stablizing links replaced they were making clicking noise.
Are there any such links in the back>?
Btw love this car
Karl
with the original motor.
What suggestion does anyone have? I tried the eject button to no avail.Going to the dealer is a last resort.If anyone have any info please share.
excuse me my english