Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda Millenia

1656668707176

Comments

  • kchpkchp Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 2001 off-lease in October of 2001 for $20K, a great deal for a luxurious looking and feeling car that has been mistaken many times for a Lexus. I love its looks and all the bells and whistles. The fuel door sticking, no big deal. The "hold" light coming on intermittently, I could deal with. The replaced o2 sensors and EGR valve, okay. The fact that the "check engine" light is always on, and my mechanic says the catalytic converter may be going, but not to worry about it, I am less than pleased with. But my newest problem is the steering! When the car is cold, it is extremely difficult to turn the steering wheel, particularly in a tight turn like into or out of a parking space or driveway. After you've driven it for 30-45 minutes, the steering's okay... but it doesn't inspire confidence. So far we've had the power steering fluid and the power steering pump replaced, and the rack and pinion taken out and cleaned and put back together. According to the mechanic, it is impossible to find the right part with which to replace the rack. He's received two rebuilt racks through the dealership, one from Pompano Beach FL and the other from Saginaw MI, and neither fit. The lengths changed from year to year, and apparently the bores changed within the year. He's put the car back together, and I'm driving it, but I don't really feel safe. I guess it's time to trade in for something that you can at least get parts for when it breaks!
  • daves6daves6 Member Posts: 3
    I'm new to the site, so I apologize if I missed the answer to the following questions. This has been a great car, but is getting expensive to own even with O2 sensor and heated seat replaced under warranty. The CEL is on, the code says knock sensor ($500 at non-Mazda shop). Due for a tune-up but I am getting 28.6 mpg on the highway. Car is a bit sluggish. Big problem now is a harsh 1-2 shift even at modest acceleration. Starting out in "hold" skips the harsh 1-2 shift. Questions: Can average home mechanic (I've restored old cars but haven't worked on anything this new) do knock sensor and tune-up? Any "How-to's" out there on this subject? I know the intake has to come off for both jobs.
    Is there a remote chance that the harsh shift is either related to the knock sensor (knock sensor light and harsh shifting started at approximately the same time) or anything that would not require internal transmission work?
    Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  • jennifer11jennifer11 Member Posts: 1
    i just glanced over your message since I am having problems with my knock sensor but I wanted to let you know that the same problem you are dealing with I just had and got fixed. I too have a 01 Mazda Millenia and have a client who happens to be an excellent mechanic in NJ, had the same exact steering problems and took it to him. The problem was my steering belt was bad and on the verge of breaking which could of caused way more damage had this happened. It has nothing to do with the rack, or at least not on my car. Have him check the belt, if it is loose which my was and if it has cracking or tearing which mine did it needs to be replaced. The part is only $20-30 and then labor is a few minutes. I'm fortunate to have a reliable mechanic who is honest, have this guy check this and show you this or go get a second opinion. Good Luck!
  • dominick33dominick33 Member Posts: 14
    Are you using premium gasoline like the owners manual says? It is possible to get a bad knock sensor indication if the computer is always retarding the timing to compensate for pre-ignition from regular gas. It will take some time to clear the error if this is the problem because once it is latched in the computer it takes a minimum of a dozen restarts to clear. A quick way to clear the error codes is to disconnect the battery with the engine off for one minute.

    It's not likely the harsh shift is from the knock sensor. I would have a reliable mechanic drop the transmission pan clean the pan and replace the transmission filter then fill with new fluid. If this helps I would repeat in a couple of months because this procedure only replaces 4 or 5 quarts of fluid (about 1/3 inside the trans). If you are at all adventurous this can be done yourself in the driveway but it is dirty and messy.

    I strongly suggest NOTgetting a transmission power flush. I have heard more than a few people report the power flush does more damage than when the car went in because it only stirs up metal filings and crap in the transmission.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote: "Are you using premium gasoline like the owners manual says?"

    First off, there is a big difference between the 2.3L S engine and the 2.5L P engine. Please specify, because the manual doesn't require "premium" in the MMP, it suggests it and leaves it up to the owner.

    I have never bought "Premium" in the 4 1/2 years I have had this car, and have never had a problem of any kind from it.

    My milage is quite good at 20 city and about 25 to 27 highway. The car still performs flawlessly. As the 2.5 KLZE is a very normal standard type of engine I doubt running 87 octane in it will ever result in a problem unless the "brain" fails and does not adjust for the difference. With the 2.3 as with ALL supercharged engine, "Premium" is required.

    Of course this is a big argument all over the internet about all cars, but I am on the run regular in the MMP unless it pings side.
  • daves6daves6 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that it is the standard 2.5L. As of tonight, the engine light is now blinking at me instead of just being illuminated. As for fuel, we have used regular 87 octane since new. You are absolutely correct, the higher octane is recommended in the manual. However, going back to shortly after we purchased it new, we have heard the following from Mazda dealers:
    "You should use high octane" (Toledo dealer)
    "You don't have to use high octane, but performance may be down a bit" (Michigan dealer)
    "My shop received a Mazda technical bulletin that indicates there can be problems with using too high octane fuel in the standard Millenia" (Central Ohio Dealer)

    We have used 87 Octane since the purchase and my last two tanks of all highway driving have been 28.6 and 28.7 mpg, respectively. As I recall, the sticker estimated 27 "highway". Based on fuel consumption alone, the car is running great. However, the nasty 1-2 shift, the knock sensor code and the sluggish acceleration are all realities. Questions:
    1. Any point in running high octane through it now?
    2. Work requires I put 700 miles on it over the next 2 days before I have a chance to get it into the shop. With the light now blinking angrily, is bigger damage (more than the cost of the sensor) possible or is breakdown likely? Thanks again for the help.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    The one and only repair my '01 MMP has had was replacement of the knock sensor at 10000 miles. It was causing no problem, and was the sensor itself, as the problem has not recurred and there never was an audible "knock" or ping.

    The three items you listed are basically all correct and I have read of them also.

    The harsh 1-2 shift when not coming to a complete stop before accelerating is common, and I seldom see it anymore. I believe you just learn how to drive to avoid it. It too has never caused a problem. I don't know about slugish acceleration, except if you put the car in hold in 2nd or 3rd, then accelerate from a dead stop. If you use hold, that may be the answer because you are starting out in a high gear. It does work fine though to manually shift if you move the lever from 1 to 2 to 3 with hold engaged. The engine revs so quickly though that you can't leave it in each gear very long.

    Again, I believe you are simply wasting your money using anything but 87 in the P. And there was a bulletin concerning the use of "Premium" in this engine. You might be able to google that to learn more.AllData used to allow free searches, but since AutoZone took them over they want a $25 fee. Strange they will run CEL checks for free then charge for information online. Anyway, the MY Mazda site shows there has never been a recall on the MM. But when I could access AllData I did see the Premium fuel problem in a TSB.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Auto Clinic
    BY MIKE ALLEN
    Illustrations by Don Mannes and Adolph E. Brotman
    Published on: May 14, 2002

    There's a 6-pack of imported beer riding on this bet. True or false: Premium gas is better for modern fuel-injected engines because there's more of the stuff in it that is supposed to clean the fuel-injection system than there is in regular gas.
    HARRY FLORENZ
    YELLOWKNIFE, NORTHWEST TERRITORIES

    Been a long winter up there in the Northwest Territories, eh Harry?

    You may need a third-party judge here. Today, nearly all engines are fuel injected. At least those made here in the States. Consequently, all major grades of branded gasoline contain adequate amounts of cleaning additives. Early injected engines had major problems with injector clogging and intake valve carbon deposits. This was nearly 20 years ago, mind you. Several higher-priced European brands were really bad--the intake manifolds had to be removed so that the valve deposits could be cleared away by blasting them with granulated walnut shells. These cars required premium fuel for the octane, and petroleum refiners added cleaners to help eliminate deposit buildup.

    As fuel injection became more common, industry standards and practices called for adding these cleaners to all grades of gas, obviating the need to use the higher-priced spread or putting in your own additives.

    The bottom line is this: Use the most economical grade of gasoline available that doesn't knock or ping. Some vehicles may need periodic doses of fuel-injection cleaners, but most won't.

    And I prefer Pilsner Urquell.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Washington Post
    Thursday, May 19, 2005, 11 a.m. ET
    Goss's Garage

    Pat Goss
    Automotive repair expert
    Thursday, May 19, 2005; 11:00 AM

    Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.

    He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.Silver Spring, Md.: How do I know if I really need to buy high-octane gas? My owner's manual recommends 91-octane, but most gas stations only offer 89 or 93. I tend to get 93, but could I get by with the 89? I drive a 2001 VW Jetta VR6.

    Pat Goss: It depends on the language in your owners manual. If it says 87 is acceptable but 91 is recommended for best performance, you can use 87 octane. If it says, premium fuel required minimum 91 octane, you can only use 93.
  • erderd Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Millenia with 94,400 miles. The car runs great, but I have 2 minor yet nice features that are not working properly. The first is my sunroof. The sunroof will open but it does not close. I have to spend 15 minutes messing around with the controls for it to close.

    The second problem is my heated seats do not work. The switch light comes on, but I do not get any heat from them.

    Any ideas would be great. Please include price if available to fix these features.
  • wadiewadie Member Posts: 5
    Dave I think we could be driving the exact same car...lol...I have a '98 with the 2.5L and have been using regular octane (87) since I purchased the car...I have had no other problems with the car until lately with the HOLD light blinking off and on and the sluggish acceleration. When the hold light is blinking off and on I get a jerk when I am riding then the car is having a delayed reaction and shifting....I took it to the Autozone shop today hopefully they will have the answers for me.
  • daves6daves6 Member Posts: 3
    Wadie, let me know what Autozone discovers. I had Autozone analyze the blinking engine light. Two codes were present--one for the knock sensor (I knew that already) and one for a "misfire at cylinder #4". He reset the car, and the light no longer blinks, which I assume means I am back to the one known problem of the faulty knock sensor.
    When I discussed my harsh shifting transmission with the dealer, he asked if the "Hold" light blinked. In my case, it does not. I mentioned the "Hold" feature in my prior message only because that is the way I successfully avoid the harsh 1-2 shift (start out gently in "Hold" then cancel "Hold" so that I can utilize overdrive, then repeat the process when I have to stop again). I will do so until I decide to trade it or fix it.
    Another contradiction by Mazda dealer vs. reputable independent: One says that, if I do the 100K tune-up when they replace the knock sensor, I will save the "overlapping labor". The other says "the book doesn't show that any of the labor overlaps, so there is little or no savings doing the two together.
    Answer to #3580's "Heated Seat": I had our driver's seat heat unit replaced under warranty. Whether or not the dealer was being accurate or not I don't know, but he told me that the part price was in excess of $1500.00. (heater coils, seat foam and more come as a unit). Please verify with your dealer in case mine was feeding me a line. If it happens to me out of warranty, I'm buying a blanket.
  • queensqueens Member Posts: 2
    My automatic steering wheel that goes up an down when starting and exiting the vehicle quit working. I was told to make sure my key was clean and I did clean it. The problem is that the auto steering wheel works now and then. I had to turn off the auto function because the wheel would stick in the up position. Even the manual botton only works sometimes. It seems that if I apply a little pressure on the steering wheel when pressing the manual button it sometimes works. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tom. My car is a 2001 Millenia
  • eedleeedle Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    New to this board. I have a 2000 Millenia S Millenium Edition. My problem is the Suede Seats. Can anyone help me find a solution to getting them back to the original look? I tried a few different remedies, however I can't get the shinny flat look out of them. Any help would be Appreciated.
  • wadiewadie Member Posts: 5
    Well Dave I let my mom take the car in for me because I had to work and the appointment I set was during my work hours..Needless to say she said the mechanic took the car around the block twice before returning to the shock to see what the revving noise and hard shifting was...HE TOLD MY MOM THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS SHOT... Lucky for me my car has an extended warranty and that is one of the covered components...I almost fainted :sick: when she told me that...so to alleviate the headaches I told him to go ahead and get the new tranny and replace the knock sensor and oxygen sensors all at once to keep me from having to pay the extra labor cost...we'll see what the outcome is...
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    Can someone please tell me where to find some struts from for 2000 MM S? The dealer is trying to charge me 200.00 each for the front and 150.00 each for the rear, plus 700 in labor. $1400.00. That is crazy.
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    I know this sound crazy, but are struts and springs the same thing?
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    What part do i actually need? Shocks, struts, struts mounts, I'm not sure. Can you tell me exactally what I need to order for a 2000 MM S?
  • sukispeedsukispeed Member Posts: 27
    struts, shocks, Damper, Shock Absorbers, all do the same job. a device that controls unwanted spring motion.
    Springs are just that springs.

    Why do you need your struts replaced?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/

    I found your OEM struts at this link for $134.76 each front, and $103.56 each rear. Didn't check the shipping rates.

    There may be cheaper sources, you will just have to search for them
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi folks. Sorry, I had to delete a post with an extremely long link because it was skewing the page.

    If you have a link that's longer than the width of the posted message text area, it's easy to post it, just use the "Url" button under the post box.

    When you are composing your post, click on the Url button, paste in your URL, then click on the Url button again. It's that simple.

    After you click on the Url button the second time, you can fill in a name for the link by typing over the text "link title" that you will see.

    Then, when the link is posted no matter how long it is, it won't mess up the display.

    :)
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    What I linked you to in the post Pat deleted is the parts breakdown of your suspension. Go to the link he left in my last post and answer the questions to identify your car and the parts you are looking for. Once you get to the page ready to check out you can click on a link to see the parts diagram.

    On my computer the link simply wrapped and was causing no problem at all.
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    I think I need struts becuase I feel every little bump I go over. I also have 120,000 miles on my car. Don't you think it's about time I get some.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Yes, different systems/displays/monitors do different things. But please use the "Url" button as I explained for future links. Feel free to drop me an email if you have any questions.

    Thanks!
  • milleniamagnetmilleniamagnet Member Posts: 3
    Hello all! I have been reading alot of these post for the last few days and i must say this is a very loyal following here! I can see why. I just bought a 1995 Millenia for my wife 2 weeks ago. It has 86,000 miles on it and every option except for the supercharger. I bought it for $3500.00. It has a salvage title because it got hit in the left front fender. I must say nothing is wrong with this car. It is a dark grey metallic. I can't stop looking at it and my wife loves it. Also it seems a lot of you are getting raked over the coals with the cost of parts. I have been looking on Ebay and there are tons of parts for these cars. New and used. I have a small problem so far with the TCS off light popping up once in a while and the check engine light came on 2 times but i think it has something to do with the o2 sensors. I dont plan on taking this car anywhere to get maintenance done since i work on my own cars. Parts are kinda of high but it is a spotless car. Engine looks brand new as well. Well just wanted to express my love for this car - nothing bad to say so far. Bye for now. :)
  • milleniamagnetmilleniamagnet Member Posts: 3
    Did you have to jack the engine up and loosen the motor mount? Did you follow a manual for this? I work on my own cars too and I am going to replace the timing belt when the weather warms up.
  • milleniamagnetmilleniamagnet Member Posts: 3
    I just saw about 5 of the engines on Ebay and they come from 50,000 mile cars and even come with a warranty. So if you havent found a engine go on Ebay i think they even have free or cheap shipping.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    You have to remove the mount. I put a scrap 1 x 6 pine board under the oil pan and held the motor up with my little floor jack. I had the move the engine up and down while doing the job to be able to get at everything. It's a very tight space and patience is required. Good Luck.
  • bwebwe Member Posts: 1
    Have you found a fix for the sunroof? Mine is doing the same thing. I've also lost the tilt steering. and having trouble with the tranny shifting up when cold or just restarted. its an 01 S with 60K miles
  • mohammedemohammede Member Posts: 1
    I also have that same problem with feeling every bump. I got a 2002 with 68,000 miles three weeks ago. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics, and they can't tell me anything. Escpecially going over rough roads on curves, the car doesn't feel stable, like it skips out from under me
  • kmadankmadan Member Posts: 1
    :cry: I have a 1998 mazda millenia and 5 days ago i had the trans spd sensor replaced.then i was driving and it slammed into gear and the engine light came on and the hold light started flashing.I put it on a otc computer and the same trans spd code came up,do u think i could have just gotten another bad sensor or do u think it's something inside that is messing the sensor up?I love my millenia but i just can't seem to keep it up to par.I maintance it when i should and just when i think it'll be fine something else goes wrong anyone else have this problem?
  • jrhawkjrhawk Member Posts: 1
    Is it really needed? All of it. I'm getting quotes from dealerships from 750.00-1200.00.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Sounds about right. Check owner manual. If it says timing belt at 60k then you would be wise to do it if you are keeping this car for awhile.
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    For those who are having trouble with the CD stuck in the CD player disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes and the issue is resolve.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    The '02 Millenia does not require a belt change until 105000 miles. In addition, the engine is non-interference so it will not be damaged even in the event of a belt breaking.

    If you have the 2.5 engine, any good mechanic can do normal maintenance on it. If you have the 2.3 supercharged engine make sure the mechanic works on other engines of it's type. I have participated here a long time, and from the history of this thread it is obvious that Mazda dealers are way out of line on normal maintenance. Mine is an '01P and has never been worked on. I do my own oil changes and similar maintenance and the car is still the same as new.
  • hcoffeyhcoffey Member Posts: 1
    You've probably already heard this but your seat heaters are burnt out likely.The newer replacement versions apparently are much better, but I don't have any idea of cost as I had mine replaced under warranty.

    Yes my sunroof does the same thing.Opens(eg: slides back but won't close occasionally, unless I fiddle with the switch for a while.Today it wouldn't close at all.(The sunfoof tilt up/down option works fine all the time.)

    Let me know the answer if you have solved this mystery.It will be much appreciated.Thanks.

    The dealer was hopeless in trying to get any information.They all just want to dance around the subject and get you in for an expensive "inspection analysis".
  • slb1slb1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi eldee11, been there done that. I have a 1999 MMS. My front driver side has been welded 3 times and my passenger front has been welded twice. I called the dealer and they wanted $600 for each rim but i'm sure you can find something less expensive on the web. Although i have had a total of 5 welds done luckily they have never been re-welds to cover an old weld so finding a good welder is the key.
  • gemini618gemini618 Member Posts: 10
    I too have a 2000 Millennia S Millennium Edition with 65K. I just bought it about 1 1/2 years ago and noticed that my tires kept losing air. I thought that maybe the tires needed to be replaced, so that's what I did. Lo an behold, it kept doing it after needlessly spending $$$ on new tires. What I was told is that the chrome peels and even those little specks leaves enough space between the tire and the rim to leak air. I too had them welded, but that was only a temporary fix. I cannot afford new rims.
  • gemini618gemini618 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Millenia S, Millennia Edition and get anywhere from 12 - 15 mpg. I originally got 17mph at best, but the check engine light keeps coming on and the dealer nor anyone else can explain why. As for the bad gas mileage issue, they just say that it is a supercharged engine and I should expect poor mileage. I know that's bull because I have seen sites where owners have the exact car (Millennia Edition - supercharged) and they get an average of 17-23 in the city and more on the highway. I wonder if it has anything to do with the Miller Cycle Engine which few mechanics have ever heard of.
    I've tried everything from changing the plugs and coils, air filters, correct tire pressure, put in premium fuel AT $2.59 pg right now. I'm stumped because I love the car itself, but it has turned into my worst nightmare.
  • nosoup4unosoup4u Member Posts: 7
    Hey everyone. First time poster here. I have a few questions about a car i am looking at. It is a 97 milleniaS and has about 85k miles on it. It runs really good and is a very solid car. It has a clean title and they want $5900 for it. It seems very reasonable. It has a wine to it though. When you step on the gas to accelerate, it makes a kind of electronic sounding noise. The people that own it said it's from the supercharger kicking on. It only does it when you are accelerating though and not in park. Does this sound normal? Also, is there anything that i need to check or look for in this model year? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • mazdafreakmazdafreak Member Posts: 27
    Whoa! very low mileage for a '97.
    5900.00$ seems reasonable, given that it's in good condition. You have to be judge of that.

    The whining noise is absolutely normal(supercharger).
    What a sweet music!
    Typically, the supercharger is the first item to verify
    on an S and do not base yourself on the general condition
    (looks) of the car.Make sure to have the vehicle checked by a skilled mechanic who is familiar with that type of engine.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    I have 2001 S, and regularly get 23 MPG in heavy commuter trafic (Boston area), 24-25 on the highway at 75-80.
    I experimented with going steady 68 mph and that gets me 28MPG easy. I have 64,000 miles on the car.
  • thomlhthomlh Member Posts: 2
    Can someone please help. My 2001 millenia s (60,000 miles) hesitates for about 2-3 full seconds after pressing down the accelerator from a dead stop. The only time it doesn't do that is right when I start it up and the first stop or two (while engine cold). I took it in the mazda dealership and they said it was the injectors. They charged me a bunch for a fuel injection cleaning which did nothing. They said I would need new fuel injectors if the flush didn't work ($2500).
    Any ideas ???
  • silversilver Member Posts: 10
    Hi, my 01 Mill S has 53000, I had to replace the Lysholm compressor at 33000 miles under warranty and only other thing I now have is the chrome wheels, the metal is breaking up and the bead isn't setting on the tires occasionally allowing the tire pressure to go down. I have lost two tires so far on this. Do you have any problems with this. To answer your question I haven't had the acceleration problem, only thing I know any repair part is expensive, the chrome wheels are $800 some apiece from Mazda, the Lysholm compressor was about $4300 installed by the dealer under warranty.
  • thomlhthomlh Member Posts: 2
    Iv'e replaced the tires at about 40,000 miles but that was because of ware. Have not had any problems on car except the automatic power steering tilt mechanism which went out (35,000 miles) and was replaced under warranty. Sorry to hear about the wheels and your tire pressure problem. And yes, repairs on this car are very expensive being that it has a Miller cycle engine in it and many mechanics are very unfairmilur with it's quirks. Sure wish I could figure out the acceleration problem I'm having.
  • silversilver Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 Millenia S, 53000 miles, the local repair garage said they could replace the timing belt for about $300.00. You might want to check around, I know the dealers are higher than heck on this.
  • silversilver Member Posts: 10
    My 2001 Millenia S also gets around 23, the best probably has been around 25 also on highway. I posted message 3617 about my wheels, have you had any problems with them? My car has 53,000, the metal is breaking up on them and the tires are leaking because the bead breaks down. Have lost two tires and just had another problem and this was on another wheel, it seems that at least two of my wheels are bad, replacement is approx $770 at the dealer.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Actually my tires hold air pressure very well, but I have noticed some corrosion after this winter on the wheels (it's not on the rims though, but on the inside of the circular openings). I wasn't good at all about washing the car this winter and I guess the New England salt and grime had their way with alloys.
    I won't be doing anything about it - the car runs very well, but I'm starting to look for a replacement for my Millenia (back problems, I need something easier to get in and out of, not that low). I have to say it is very difficult to get anything at a reasonable price that would have interior comparable to the Mill S (with the Optitron gauges).
    Tomek
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Silver,
    I forgot to mention: I've been sticking to Dunlop SP5000 (the OEM tires for 01 Mill S) and they've been quite good - held up over potholes pretty well. My coworker with Michelines on her Volvo had 3 flats over last 6 months or so... Dunlops have reinforced sidewalls and are supposed to be more resilient to damage, therefore they protect the rims better.
    What tires are you running?
    Tomek
Sign In or Register to comment.