Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Is there a remote chance that the harsh shift is either related to the knock sensor (knock sensor light and harsh shifting started at approximately the same time) or anything that would not require internal transmission work?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
It's not likely the harsh shift is from the knock sensor. I would have a reliable mechanic drop the transmission pan clean the pan and replace the transmission filter then fill with new fluid. If this helps I would repeat in a couple of months because this procedure only replaces 4 or 5 quarts of fluid (about 1/3 inside the trans). If you are at all adventurous this can be done yourself in the driveway but it is dirty and messy.
I strongly suggest NOTgetting a transmission power flush. I have heard more than a few people report the power flush does more damage than when the car went in because it only stirs up metal filings and crap in the transmission.
First off, there is a big difference between the 2.3L S engine and the 2.5L P engine. Please specify, because the manual doesn't require "premium" in the MMP, it suggests it and leaves it up to the owner.
I have never bought "Premium" in the 4 1/2 years I have had this car, and have never had a problem of any kind from it.
My milage is quite good at 20 city and about 25 to 27 highway. The car still performs flawlessly. As the 2.5 KLZE is a very normal standard type of engine I doubt running 87 octane in it will ever result in a problem unless the "brain" fails and does not adjust for the difference. With the 2.3 as with ALL supercharged engine, "Premium" is required.
Of course this is a big argument all over the internet about all cars, but I am on the run regular in the MMP unless it pings side.
"You should use high octane" (Toledo dealer)
"You don't have to use high octane, but performance may be down a bit" (Michigan dealer)
"My shop received a Mazda technical bulletin that indicates there can be problems with using too high octane fuel in the standard Millenia" (Central Ohio Dealer)
We have used 87 Octane since the purchase and my last two tanks of all highway driving have been 28.6 and 28.7 mpg, respectively. As I recall, the sticker estimated 27 "highway". Based on fuel consumption alone, the car is running great. However, the nasty 1-2 shift, the knock sensor code and the sluggish acceleration are all realities. Questions:
1. Any point in running high octane through it now?
2. Work requires I put 700 miles on it over the next 2 days before I have a chance to get it into the shop. With the light now blinking angrily, is bigger damage (more than the cost of the sensor) possible or is breakdown likely? Thanks again for the help.
The three items you listed are basically all correct and I have read of them also.
The harsh 1-2 shift when not coming to a complete stop before accelerating is common, and I seldom see it anymore. I believe you just learn how to drive to avoid it. It too has never caused a problem. I don't know about slugish acceleration, except if you put the car in hold in 2nd or 3rd, then accelerate from a dead stop. If you use hold, that may be the answer because you are starting out in a high gear. It does work fine though to manually shift if you move the lever from 1 to 2 to 3 with hold engaged. The engine revs so quickly though that you can't leave it in each gear very long.
Again, I believe you are simply wasting your money using anything but 87 in the P. And there was a bulletin concerning the use of "Premium" in this engine. You might be able to google that to learn more.AllData used to allow free searches, but since AutoZone took them over they want a $25 fee. Strange they will run CEL checks for free then charge for information online. Anyway, the MY Mazda site shows there has never been a recall on the MM. But when I could access AllData I did see the Premium fuel problem in a TSB.
BY MIKE ALLEN
Illustrations by Don Mannes and Adolph E. Brotman
Published on: May 14, 2002
There's a 6-pack of imported beer riding on this bet. True or false: Premium gas is better for modern fuel-injected engines because there's more of the stuff in it that is supposed to clean the fuel-injection system than there is in regular gas.
HARRY FLORENZ
YELLOWKNIFE, NORTHWEST TERRITORIES
Been a long winter up there in the Northwest Territories, eh Harry?
You may need a third-party judge here. Today, nearly all engines are fuel injected. At least those made here in the States. Consequently, all major grades of branded gasoline contain adequate amounts of cleaning additives. Early injected engines had major problems with injector clogging and intake valve carbon deposits. This was nearly 20 years ago, mind you. Several higher-priced European brands were really bad--the intake manifolds had to be removed so that the valve deposits could be cleared away by blasting them with granulated walnut shells. These cars required premium fuel for the octane, and petroleum refiners added cleaners to help eliminate deposit buildup.
As fuel injection became more common, industry standards and practices called for adding these cleaners to all grades of gas, obviating the need to use the higher-priced spread or putting in your own additives.
The bottom line is this: Use the most economical grade of gasoline available that doesn't knock or ping. Some vehicles may need periodic doses of fuel-injection cleaners, but most won't.
And I prefer Pilsner Urquell.
Thursday, May 19, 2005, 11 a.m. ET
Goss's Garage
Pat Goss
Automotive repair expert
Thursday, May 19, 2005; 11:00 AM
Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.
He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.Silver Spring, Md.: How do I know if I really need to buy high-octane gas? My owner's manual recommends 91-octane, but most gas stations only offer 89 or 93. I tend to get 93, but could I get by with the 89? I drive a 2001 VW Jetta VR6.
Pat Goss: It depends on the language in your owners manual. If it says 87 is acceptable but 91 is recommended for best performance, you can use 87 octane. If it says, premium fuel required minimum 91 octane, you can only use 93.
The second problem is my heated seats do not work. The switch light comes on, but I do not get any heat from them.
Any ideas would be great. Please include price if available to fix these features.
When I discussed my harsh shifting transmission with the dealer, he asked if the "Hold" light blinked. In my case, it does not. I mentioned the "Hold" feature in my prior message only because that is the way I successfully avoid the harsh 1-2 shift (start out gently in "Hold" then cancel "Hold" so that I can utilize overdrive, then repeat the process when I have to stop again). I will do so until I decide to trade it or fix it.
Another contradiction by Mazda dealer vs. reputable independent: One says that, if I do the 100K tune-up when they replace the knock sensor, I will save the "overlapping labor". The other says "the book doesn't show that any of the labor overlaps, so there is little or no savings doing the two together.
Answer to #3580's "Heated Seat": I had our driver's seat heat unit replaced under warranty. Whether or not the dealer was being accurate or not I don't know, but he told me that the part price was in excess of $1500.00. (heater coils, seat foam and more come as a unit). Please verify with your dealer in case mine was feeding me a line. If it happens to me out of warranty, I'm buying a blanket.
New to this board. I have a 2000 Millenia S Millenium Edition. My problem is the Suede Seats. Can anyone help me find a solution to getting them back to the original look? I tried a few different remedies, however I can't get the shinny flat look out of them. Any help would be Appreciated.
http://www.google.com/search?q=struts+mazda+millenia&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&c- lient=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official
Springs are just that springs.
Why do you need your struts replaced?
I found your OEM struts at this link for $134.76 each front, and $103.56 each rear. Didn't check the shipping rates.
There may be cheaper sources, you will just have to search for them
If you have a link that's longer than the width of the posted message text area, it's easy to post it, just use the "Url" button under the post box.
When you are composing your post, click on the Url button, paste in your URL, then click on the Url button again. It's that simple.
After you click on the Url button the second time, you can fill in a name for the link by typing over the text "link title" that you will see.
Then, when the link is posted no matter how long it is, it won't mess up the display.
On my computer the link simply wrapped and was causing no problem at all.
Thanks!
If you have the 2.5 engine, any good mechanic can do normal maintenance on it. If you have the 2.3 supercharged engine make sure the mechanic works on other engines of it's type. I have participated here a long time, and from the history of this thread it is obvious that Mazda dealers are way out of line on normal maintenance. Mine is an '01P and has never been worked on. I do my own oil changes and similar maintenance and the car is still the same as new.
Yes my sunroof does the same thing.Opens(eg: slides back but won't close occasionally, unless I fiddle with the switch for a while.Today it wouldn't close at all.(The sunfoof tilt up/down option works fine all the time.)
Let me know the answer if you have solved this mystery.It will be much appreciated.Thanks.
The dealer was hopeless in trying to get any information.They all just want to dance around the subject and get you in for an expensive "inspection analysis".
I've tried everything from changing the plugs and coils, air filters, correct tire pressure, put in premium fuel AT $2.59 pg right now. I'm stumped because I love the car itself, but it has turned into my worst nightmare.
5900.00$ seems reasonable, given that it's in good condition. You have to be judge of that.
The whining noise is absolutely normal(supercharger).
What a sweet music!
Typically, the supercharger is the first item to verify
on an S and do not base yourself on the general condition
(looks) of the car.Make sure to have the vehicle checked by a skilled mechanic who is familiar with that type of engine.
I experimented with going steady 68 mph and that gets me 28MPG easy. I have 64,000 miles on the car.
Any ideas ???
I won't be doing anything about it - the car runs very well, but I'm starting to look for a replacement for my Millenia (back problems, I need something easier to get in and out of, not that low). I have to say it is very difficult to get anything at a reasonable price that would have interior comparable to the Mill S (with the Optitron gauges).
Tomek
I forgot to mention: I've been sticking to Dunlop SP5000 (the OEM tires for 01 Mill S) and they've been quite good - held up over potholes pretty well. My coworker with Michelines on her Volvo had 3 flats over last 6 months or so... Dunlops have reinforced sidewalls and are supposed to be more resilient to damage, therefore they protect the rims better.
What tires are you running?
Tomek