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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • biglegsbiglegs Member Posts: 3
    I would like to know what ending up being the problem with your car? I have a 2000 millenia s and I am having the same problems, check engine light on, tcs off and tcs lights are on. my car is now at the transmission shop? please help with any advice you may have?
  • biglegsbiglegs Member Posts: 3
    please advise me as to what your problem was with your millienia, I am experiencing the same problems with my car right now and I have taken it to the transmission shop?
  • msj07msj07 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 97 millenia in march from an auction. she has been running great other than when i get on the highway and get a speed of 85-90...my tcs comes on. and the only way for me to get it off is if i pull over and turn the car off and turn it back on. alot of people are saying that she needs a major tune-up (shes at 102,000). i get nervous when it comes on , especially while driving with my daughter in the backseat. has anyone had similar problems like this? i love my car, but if its going to be expensive and they really dont know what it is then i guess ima have to look at other options...
  • oastleroastler Member Posts: 4
    This has happened to me around 3 times, all when the engine was cold. It sounds similar...like the transmission downshifts into 2nd gear or so. I have a 95 Mill S model
    with 155,000 miles. it has been a great car, I am the original owner and have taken good care of it. Nothing major has happened to it except a blown out radiator
    around 90k, and I recently replaced the supercharger with
    a $250 used one that works well, except the typical smoke on startup many get.

    Anyway, on to the question at hand...I have been told it
    is caused by a small transmission sensor that goes off
    by accident sometimes, and that the only way to really fix it is to replace the entire transmission. Bummer for you if it happens alot. At 155k, if it starts happening alot I am trading in as a new tranny is not worth putting on a car which will be most likely pretty done at 200K. As I said,
    while a bit scary (and has only happened on the highway at high speeds) it doesn't really seem to be serious. As you said, it resets after you turn the car completely off and
    back on again. See if yours happens only when the car is cold. That has seemed to be a factor with mine, it has only happened in the chilly weather.
  • sdj320sdj320 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all

    I have a 2001 2.5 Millenia with 121,000 miles on it. I currently use 89 unleaded fuel but the manual said 87 fuel would be okay but at the cost of performance. I've heard some people talk about engine knockings when you use 87 fuel on the Millenia. Fuel prices are soaring these days so would the 87 fuel work okay with my Millenia?
  • biglegsbiglegs Member Posts: 3
    I posted a message a few days ago. I want to ALERT anyone with a Millenia S. I was having problems with my TCS OFF light, TCS & check engine light coming on occasionally.I took my car to the dealership a 2000 S series and they could not get a code reading and they drove the car for over 30 miles after being reset and the light never came back on. The service advisor told me they have seen this problem before but because of the type of engine in these cars they cannot pinpoint what the problem is because the computet does not send a reading. He also told me that it is very expensive to repair these cars. He said that they could start with the vaccuum valve and go forward to the ABV and so forth. My car had a 119--- miles and I loved my car but after he expressed the fact that he has seen this happen before and the person spent in the thousands getting their car fixed I decided to trade it in. Don't get me wrong before then I had no major problems but I couldn't spend that much repairing a car that could very well act up again. So say this the Millenia S is a good car but Mazda should have thoroughly did their homework when creating this type of engine for this car. BEWARE OTHER OWNERS!!!!!! :mad: :confuse:
  • crandlecrandle Member Posts: 1
    I no longer see a/c water puddle when parked. How can the drain be checked? Thanks
  • lambster44lambster44 Member Posts: 8
    intermitant dying for no apparent reason. see post #3717 by 97millenia06 dated Sept 21 2006. that is where some discussion starts about it.

    Sorry for the delay in responding. That is the drawback to this medium. Hopefully you have not sunk too much money into the solution and not found a remedy.

    -Lambster
  • uscxvuscxv Member Posts: 8
    I just had my timing belt replaced at 123,000 miles. The mechanic said it didi't look too bad and might have lasted aqnother 10,000 mikes.
  • uscxvuscxv Member Posts: 8
    I had same issue. Car would just shutdown.

    It turned out to be the distributor. Once replaced problem solved.
  • coderedcodered Member Posts: 43
    I have a 99 millenia with a 2.5.it hesitates for about 1-3 seconds after pressing down the accelerator from a dead stop. i been told the tps is bad.... it has 141k miles on it and still the best car ever had... any help would be great thanks
  • gemini72gemini72 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Millenia S--bought it brand new, had some probs w/ spark plug coils--very expensive to replace, especially at dealership. Replaced one, the next year replaced another one, the following year the remaining four. Has about 108K miles. Now running fairly well. However, I have noticed that it is a bit sluggish--other cars (Chevy Cobalt, Kia Optima) appear to have faster acceleration and better pick-up than I do. Embarrassing! Feels as if I have to stand on the gas to make it get up and go. All's well once I'm at 60 mph, problem is getting there! To be honest, the car may have been like this for a while now. Anyone know what could possibly be the problem? Air filter is fairly new, so that should not be the problem. Regular mechanic impressed w/ maintenance of car. Afraid to bring problem to attention of dealership b/c I'm sure they will find a million problems to fix until the problem goes away!
  • stoutblockstoutblock Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Millenia S with 104K miles. I am the second owner since 89K, but I have all the service records from the Mazda dealer who has maintained the car per the book since new. It has been a great car, and is in exceptional condition. The only problem I’ve had until recently is a sticky thermostat which was easy to replace on the 02, it is on the lower hose, not upper as other posters have stated.

    Here is my problem, when the car starts cold, and you keep it running without turning it off, it runs great. If for any reason you turn the car off, and start it again before it cools off (2-3 hours), the engine light will start flashing, and the engine will run quite bad. It will run, but rough, like timing, misfire, injection are not correct. It will stay this way; sometimes the engine light will stop flashing, but stay on, until you turn it off and let it go back to cold before starting again.

    I can drive it for hundreds of miles with no problems, as long as I don’t turn it off.

    Any ideas???
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's Tuesday, so that means it's time for our weekly chat session. Meet and greet with some of your CarSpace forums friends and chat about your favorite cars!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • stoutblockstoutblock Member Posts: 2
    I had the codes read and it shows 301 which translates to misfire on cylinder #1. I assume it is a coil? Now for the life of me I can't seem to findout which cylinder is #1???
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    i've been having the same problems everybody else having with that s engine. if anyone have a layout of the engine itself or can get one let me see it too. i have 54000 miles on it and i don't want to trade it. the parts are way too high now since gas is up and the dealership wants almost 2500 to fix it. i doing everything myself but need to know where is number 1 and 6 plugs at far as everything else.thanks lv
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    i have another question, have anybody tried to replaced the boots on the coil to c if that worked please reply thanks lboogie
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    if u haven't found it, let me know and i can tell u. thanks lboogie
  • hallstevehallsteve Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 millenia with a 2.5 v6 .The firing order is 123456. the distributor cap has numbers stamped at each terminal that read 123546.My question is,do i plug in wires according to firing order or numbers stamped on cap.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    This is easily fixed yourself. Make a small hole with an icepick type tool. Squirt spray grease in the hole. Wipe off, clean off excess and seal with shoe goo or household goop. Let dry overnight. Voila. No more squeak
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    me personally i would do it off the cap that way ur wires will match up with no problems
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    I should have been more clear. Squeaky rear bushings (above the rear tires) are enclosed in a little rubber boot. Just make a hole big enough for some silicone grease to be sprayed in via a straw connected to the aerosol nozzle, and re-seal the hole...you are all set.
  • srustsrust Member Posts: 2
    In my previous experience, thermostats have always failed open, that is, causing a too-cold problem. However, last summer the thermostat of my '98 Millenia P (2.5, obviously) failed closed, overheating. As it turns out, the thermostat is a multifunction device, opening and closing as many as three different openings. The silly thing was warped and deformed.

    Our local good guy radiator shop told me that cars like Mazdas tend to be finicky about their cooling systems. You have to be very careful to get the system well-burped, eliminating all air bubbles in the system. I had the radiator out for inspection (no leak or low-flow rate problems) and replaced the thermostat and hoses. Having been warned, I was extremely cautious about bubbles.

    Cooling system now fine. Recently drove from Fort Wayne to Evansville with no problems and honest 28.5 MPG (adding acetone) on the way down. That was the best it's ever done.

    By the way, I think the car gets 15% better mileage with acetone than without.

    Steve
  • degefladegefla Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    just found this site and appreciate all the wonderful info. I bought my son a '96 Millenia S lst year with 84K miles. It now has 92K and I have no idea if the timing belt has ever been changed.

    Any thougths on the cost of changing the timing bet? Should water pump be replaced at the same time?

    it's been an excellent car so far. Thanks!
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    The timing belt should usually go 100,000 with no problems, regardless of recommendations. He should probably be thinking about changing it soon. And certainly do the water pump at the same time. In any event, it is not an interference engine, so if the belt fails before replacement, it will not destroy the engine.
  • degefladegefla Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Gregg VW.

    I've been told by 2 different mechanics that this is an interference engine? Is the Millenia S different than the non "S" engine for timing belts?
  • wilcorwilcor Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 base model with a straight six cylinder engine that threw a rod through the crankcase at 58,000 miles. This car was well maintained and driven by my slow poke wife since it was new. This occurred after the 60,000 mile service was done and the timing belt changed two months before it blew up. It was out of warranty and the Mazda factory rep supposedly inspected it but only offered S class pricing on a new one and no engine replacement. S class pricing was no better than normal pricing. I declined to buy another one and spent $5 grand on a rebuilt engine since they offered me $200 for the car. Everyone knows that this should not have happened at this mileage. Has anyone else had this happen at under 100,000 miles. This does not seem right and am thinking about rediscussing it with Mazda. I offered to pay the local Mazda dealer $2000 for labor to replace it if Mazda would give me another engine at cost to no avail.
  • wilcorwilcor Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem but cured it in mine by switching to a K & N free flowing air cleaner. It might be worth a try for $45. I am not a full time mechanic but I usually feel some difference in accelleration on smaller engines that I have but none on my larger V-8 engines.
  • uscxvuscxv Member Posts: 8
    As long as you have maintenance records you definately need to rediscuss with Mazda. I have over 130k on my 2002 Millenia and all is does is run and run and run.

    You also need to call 1-800-lemon law. Sometimes thats all that works.

    Good Luck
  • wilcorwilcor Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. I think that everyone but Mazda would agree that they should have stepped up to the plate on this one. No well kept engine that was never pushed very hard should throw a rod at 58,000 miles. I think I will call the 800 lemon law number and discuss it with them.
    Thanks for the advice.
  • thesaintthesaint Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Millenia with a 2.5L V6 the standard motor with the car and I was wondering what I need to get to upgrade my moter to the KLZE-2.5 V6. I was wondering what would I all need to to make this motor work in my car.
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    If you have unsuccessfully attempted to put in the code 3 times the book states that it will make the audio permanently inoperable and will have to be replaced by the dealer at you r expense. If you have an owners manual pages 4--55 is were to start reading at. I was fortunate enough that mine has never been set.
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    My boyfriend bought 95 Millenia in November for $1300 and gave it to me. The guy was working on fixing it up and got tired of sticking money into it. He told me he had replaced the transmission, spark plugs and the O2 sensor as well as the sensor in front of and behind it. He also told me there was a miss that he couldn't figure out. He said there were not any more codes on the car so he couldn't find out what the problem was. He told me he would suggest that I take it to the dealer and have it checked out. The miss was not really bad. It was just after it warmed up and until you would reach about 30 mph and it's stop. Now the miss is bad and to the point that it died on me twice when I stopped at a stop sign. It also takes it a minute to crank if I cut it off when I go somewhere. It seems to be idling at 500 rpms which I am pretty sure is to low and it has been that way since I got it. I am going to get new boots and sparkplugs and change those before going to the dealer. I priced a distributor and I thought I was gonna have a heart attack from the cost. Do you have any other suggestions before I take it to the dealer and spend alot on it?
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    I went to autozone.com and registered and put in my car info and they have all kinds of information such as repair guides and descriptions of parts as well as were they are located in or on the vehicle.
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    You mean you just cleaned the outside of the motor and that was it?
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    If it is the S model 2.3 liter Miller cycle engine, I don't think 500 rpm at idle is too low, especially if it idles smoothly.
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    This is the specs I have on it:
    Transmission:4-SPEED AUTO OD TRAN 2W FWD
    Engine:2.5L DOHC V6 24 VALV
    I entered my VIN on the mazda website and this is what it came back as!
  • sunshine37110sunshine37110 Member Posts: 6
    The only thing I know about it is that it has the following specs per Mazda's owner website:
    Transmission:4-SPEED AUTO OD TRAN 2W FWD
    Engine:2.5L DOHC V6 24 VALV
  • apiarxapiarx Member Posts: 2
    Hello from the Tennessee mountains! I hope someone in the forums either can help me with this oddball problem, or can refer me to an expert on 1995 Millenia transmissions. While driving in the remote mountains, I came to a "T" intersection that was so steep that the front of my car bottomed out hard on the pavement of the intersecting road. Immediately the torque converter lockup engaged and has not disengaged since. Local Mazda dealer refuses to even look at transmission problems in cars out of warranty. Local transmission shop gave $1300 "estimate," exclusive of additional problems that they may find--wanna bet they won't find any on this 155,000 mile vehicle?! I have driven several thousand miles since the incident, Cold starts are a problem as either the engine stalls or the transmission engages with a bang. If there is no simple fix for this, I'll just drive it this way until something breaks from the abuse. But I hate to do that because it has been a wonderful car--any help will be sincerely appreciated.

    Thanks
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Welcome to CarSpace! You might also want to post your question in our Answers section while we're waiting to see if someone can help you here. Good luck - hope we can help.
  • apiarxapiarx Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Pat. I posted the question in the Answers section also. It's a shame the Millenia never really achieved the same status as Lexus, Infiniti, and Acura. We considered all those brands before buying the Millenia and have never regretted the decision. Thanks again.
  • wynn1wynn1 Member Posts: 2
    Looking at 02S and I am seeing that mfg. recommends super unleaded for this vehicle. Anyone running other than super and have not read all posts, does this create any noticable problems? Anyone running regular unleaded?
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Do NOT use regular unleaded in the supercharged Miller cycle engine. It is OK to do in the 2.5 liter, though I don't understand why people do. The few cents more that premium costs has become a smaller percentage of overall fuel cost as the price per gallon has risen. You could mix mid-grade and premium to shoot for a 91 octane mix I suppose.

    If premium is recommended, then using it will gain you more power and better mileage. However, with the S, the knock sensor cannot always react quickly enough to compensate when the supercharger spools up.

    Make sure the expensive 60K service was done (timing belt, plugs, etc.). Use premium and enjoy the car.
  • lbrightonlbrighton Member Posts: 1
    :surprise: I have been experiencing a similar prob for some time . I am pretty happy with my 2002 millenia except one situation, every so often prob at least once a day now the the transmission jerks the car forward a bit :confuse: ( and hold light blinks-even though I have not engaged it) I had the transmission replaced about 2 years ago and the engine light has come on and off since I picked up the car brand new from the dealer. Even when I brought the car in for routine maintenance they never found anything wrong with it until I bought it after the 3 yr lease was up, then I needed a new trannie. SO since the dealer quote me a price of 6K I took myself to a local AAMCO dealer and had one installed for 3k, unfortunately I still have a prob, can I solve this by somehow having that hold button feature disabled? :confuse:
    thanks!
  • tex1084tex1084 Member Posts: 1
    Though I consider myself to be fairly savvy under the hood and in normal maintenance with my car, this one's over my head. What could be the source of my problem when my air conditioning unit thermostat (if that's even its technical name) is stuck on 90. Even when I turn it off, it's blowing warm air up my thighs.

    A broken fuse? A broken thermostat? The protocol for replacing a broken "thermostat" (a part only $18) seems to be a hell of an effort. I'm hoping I read the wrong information.

    Could anyone send me in the right direction?--hopefully not to a dealer.

    Thanks a bunch.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Hope you can come out tonight to meet and greet some of your fellow CarSpace members!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • cindy79cindy79 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Millenia S Millenium Edition , the check engine light has been on since I have purchased the vehicle, also for the last few months the TCS and TCS Off light have started to come on and stay on for periods of time which causes the car to jerk, I was told my O2 sensor needs to be replaced, you may want to have your sensors checked , They can cause the car not to perform correctley even as far as the transmission performance. This can be exspensive
  • cindy79cindy79 Member Posts: 3
    I HAVE A 200 MAZDA MILLENIA S THAT I FINANCED FOR $9,000 THE BODY LOOKS GREAT BUT I AM HAVING PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM , THE AUTOMATIC STEERING WHEEL WORKS WHEN IT WANTS TO , THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON, THE SENSORS HAVE TO BE REPLACED O2 AN MAP SENSOR, THE TCS LIGHT AND TCS OFF LIGHT COME ON AT THE SAME TIME WHICH CAUSES THE CAR TO JERK , I PURCHASED THE CAR 08/07 IT IS EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR I AM CONSIDERING TRADING IT IN , I HAVE READ SEVERAL FORUMS ON MILLENIAS AND THESE SEEM TO BE COMMON ISSUES , THE CAR IS GOOD FOR THE LOOKS WHICH IS WHAT CAUGHT MY ATTENTION BUT THAT IS ABOUT ALL.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    They are very good cars and often can go well past 120,000 miles trouble-free. They need to be serviced properly, especially the S model. The S model must have premium fuel. The 60,000 mile service is important. For all the people on forums who complain, there are many more happy owners, some of whom still look for low mileage examples when it is time to trade. I owned two of them and had no regrets. However, technology has moved on and they are hardly state of the art anymore.

    Someone got a real deal on purchasing my second one from the dealer. It needed O2 sensors and all 60K work. Millenium Edition that sold with 59,000 miles for less than $7,000 (I believe the asking price was like 10K). The dealer did all the service, and the purchaser got a vehicle that was like new.

    You likely paid more for the car than you needed to (KBB and even Edmunds list inflated values for these cars, compared for what they are really selling for). You may have been happier with the non-S model, which is just as pretty. I recommend a person buy one either from a Mazda dealer (they will have done the required service), or from someone who has all the service records. O2 sensors will be pricey from a dealer. Shop around for parts.

    Tuition in the school of life stuff: it is easy enough to turn off the check engine light without fixing the underlying problem. Running a computer check through Autozone for example might give you a better idea of whether there are any error codes stored on a car you are considering. As for price, a good check is to see what similar models have sold for on eBay.

    You need to evaluate repair costs and overall condition. It may be cheaper for you to bring the car up to optimum condition, or it may be cheaper to dump it now. All depends. Has it had the 60,000 tuneup and timing belt change? Is it using any fluids? Any leaks at all? The steering wheel doesn't matter that much...it's mostly for show. Set it where you want it, and then turn the auto feature off most of the time. Less stress on the steering column motor, and the feature will last longer.
  • oastleroastler Member Posts: 4
    My LED-type light is out that displays on the dash the time, thermostat and
    AC settings. I checked the fuse and its okay. Any ideas on how to fix it myself
    or is a shop going to have to do it?

    Thanks,
    Tom
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